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Thread: Building tips and hints

  1. #11

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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    Thanks for the nice review John. I hope I've redeemed myself for snapping at the McBeam's for not giving up drawings for an engine mount I needed. They,
    you and everyone here at this site are nice people willing to offer some valued help. Hope everyone can use this tip
    In my area, there is a family of Kitfox's and Avids growing. . -Tom from N.J.

  2. #12
    Senior Member jtpitkin06's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    Setting Pop Rivets

    Sometimes a pop rivet is a bit tight and doesnít set all the way in the hole leaving the rivet head slightly proud.

    Use a short length of brass tubing as a setting tool. The tube slips over the pop rivet shank A light tap with a mallet drives the rivet home without knocking the shank out the back side or damaging the rivet head.

    John
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #13
    Senior Member jtpitkin06's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    Wire ties


    Sometimes you need to snug up a wire bundle to hold things in place, but have plans of adding more wires to the same bundle. Iíve tried leaving the ties a bit loose but that creates a problem of sloppy looking wire harness with loops and sags. If you zip the ties up tight to get a nice looking harness you must cut off the previously installed ties to add new wiring. That wastes a lot of wire ties.


    I use a technique of temporarily installing wire ties backwards. That way the bundle can be snugged up for proper routing. Thereís just enough friction to hold things in place but the tie can be loosened or removed for additional wiring.



    Ties installed backwards may be readjusted dozens of times. I use yellow colored ties to remind me which ones are temporary and installed backwards or purposely leave the tail long to indicate it is a temp tie.

    JP

  4. #14
    Senior Member colospace's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    John, you stated "To press the bushings in the stab sockets use a C clamp. Do not beat on the bushings with a mallet."
    Did you use the recommended Loctite 680 Retaining Compound? The tech info with that product states to apply to both surfaces and "assemble with high press rates". I have managed to install 3 of the 7 so far, but for 2 of the 3 I had to resort to a small hammer against a backing plate to get the final 1/8" or so. It seems the RC680 sets up really fast. No way would I be able to use a C-clamp fast enough. I used a Vise Grip 11R on my third one to get most of the way quickly after making sure the bushing/bearing was starting square. The aft center location looks like it will be really tough due to the decreased accessibility between the ribs.
    I would be very interested in hearing your (and others) thoughts and experience on this step.
    - Gary
    S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
    w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon
    (still building)

  5. #15

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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    I used threaded rod with nuts and washers on each end. No trouble at all.

  6. #16
    Senior Member jtpitkin06's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    Stabilizer Bushings

    Yes, I used 680 Loctite when installing the stab bushings. After reaming the sockets a few of the bushings were still very tight. I used a bolt and nut through the middle of the bushing to chuck it in a drill motor. Holding a file against the outside barrel of the bushing I removed a bit of material to have a nice firm press fit without forcing. [I have a lathe, but this was quicker]

    I smeared the 680 on and pressed the bearings in using the c clamp method.

    The suggestion to use threaded rod or bolt with washers and nuts is a great tip, too! I like it better in that it keeps the bushings aligned as they press into place. More than one way to skin an empenage!

    The problem with beating on the bushings is they get deformed and will require redrilling and reaming back to size.

    A note on Loctite 680... if you haven't used this stuff before you're in for a surprise. It is not like other Loctite products that set in hours. This 680 goo is FAST. You get about 15 to 30 seconds and in some cases less. It is also pretty permanent. Once set, it takes a lot of heat to break the bond.

    JP

  7. #17
    Senior Member Dorsal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    A building tip I picked up somewhere that makes dealing with Adel clamps less annoying. Using pliers (or vice grips if you don't have a helping hand) to hold the clamp together put a small piece of safety wire around the base of the clamp. This tend to make the clamp loose enough to move yet easy to assemble. I recently swapped out the autopilot servos and they are mounted with Adel clamps which where a huge PITA. I put safety wire on the clamps before disassembling them and putting the new servos in was a snap.
    Dorsal ~~^~~
    Series 7 - Tri-Gear
    912 ULS Warp Drive

  8. #18
    Senior Member colospace's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    John,
    Your right about the 680 setting fast!!
    I like the bolt/nut or rod idea, but think I would be too slow with that, like I am with the C-clamp.
    I am debating installing the bearing half-way dry and then applying the 680 to the two surfaces that remain exposed. Seems I could get it pressed on fully quickly enough although I would in effect have only applied 680 to one surface of each end. For what it is worth, Loctite specifies applying to only one surface for a shrink fit application (where the other surface will be heated prior to installation).
    - Gary
    S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
    w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon
    (still building)

  9. #19
    Senior Member colospace's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    Just a follow-up to my last post. I just talked with tech support at Loctite. They said that the working time for the 680 should be on the order of 10 minutes!!
    They could provide no explaination for why I am observing significantly less, but did note that lower temperatures should allow more working time. My work area has been no more than 72 degrees for this though.
    - Gary
    S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
    w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon
    (still building)

  10. #20
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    Hello John, great bunch of tips. I am just setting up shop as I patiently wait for my kit. I have already jumped on your parts bin idea. There was one on sale that was already on casters and two sided at princess auto. The Canadian equivilant to harbor freight i think.

    Just a quick question. You bring up the use of a drill press a lot in your posts. I intentionally bought the prefabbed parts option so I would avoid buying tools like that. Would you say if a person didn't have to fabricate all the parts that he should still have a drill press, table grinder/belt sander. etc? Here is a picture of the prefabbed parts I ordered.

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