For readers/builders that may not have reached the rudder installation, here are some tips.

These tips apply to the Model 7 SS with the speedster rib kits. They may be useful to those building a classic IV as well.

Remove the center ball end from the vertical stab while you do test fitting of the rudder and trimming of the fairings. Having only two bearings to line up is much easier. Get the top and bottom of the rudder evenly spaced away from the vertical stab so there is no rudder interference with the fairings or the rudder stops. Do all of the trimming on the fairings before you install the center bearing.

Before you attempt to slide the hinge bolts in place on the rudder, attach a safety line. Use a 12 inch length of .020 safety wire wrapped two or three turns around the bolt shank just below the head. Twist a 1 inch diameter finger loop in the other end of the wire.

To hold your bolts during installation, use a short 6 inch mechanical finger tool. Most auto parts carry them for under $6. Grip the bolt on the shank, just below the head. The tool will grip the bolt firmly and give you enough pressure to push the bolt into the bearing. Should you drop the bolt during install you can simply pull the bolt out with the safety wire.

Once you have the hinge bolt in position and partly inserted, a firm pull on the safety wire will release the bolt as the wire unwinds. Then push the bolt down.

To install the nuts use a box end wrench and a ratcheting box end wrench (Gear Wrench) together. A 3/8 inch Gear Wrench needs only enough room to slide the box end into position and swing about 10 degrees. To get the nut started, place tape across the bottom of the regular box end wrench to hold the nut and prevent it from falling through. Turn the bolt with the Gear Wrench to start it into the nut. Once the nut is on and you start to get some drag, swap the wrenches and use the Gear Wrench to tighten the nut and the regular box to hold the bolt.

[Note: If you don’t have a set of Gear Wrenches, put them on your wish list. They are available at Lowe’s and Sears. A full set of imperial wrenches is about $42. For aircraft work they are well worth it.]

To align the center ball end, use a 3/16 inch diameter steel rod. Slide the rod through all three ball ends. It will quickly show you where the center ball end needs adjustment. (The top and bottom are already set when you trim the fairings and make slots for the rudder limiter.)

You’ll find the fuselage rudder stops are not far enough aft with the speedster rib kit. They are about 1/4 inch short of preventing the rudder from hitting the elevator. Mark where the rudder limit tabs should contact the fuselage rudder stops. Drill the rudder stops with a 3/16 bit. Install an AN3-4 bolt on each rudder stop. The bolt head will be the new stop. Use AN960-10 or 10L washers under the bolt heads as spacers to set the limit of rudder throw. [You will need to have the elevator installed to check the rudder limit.]

Speedster kit pre-cover info: Because the slots in the rudder leading edge can allow water to enter the rudder it is imperative that you do an extra good job of waterproofing the wood ribs and painting the inside of the rudder. Be sure to provide limber holes for water to drain out of the rudder. Aircraft without the speed kit have the rudder hinges outside of the covering.

Using the above methods, I have installed and removed my rudder several times in just a few minutes. It is easy and I’ve never dropped a bolt inside the rudder that I couldn’t simply pull up with the safety wire.

I hope this helps a fellow builder.

John Pitkin
Greenville, TX