Loctite is one brand, Dave. You can get it at W.W. Grainger's, some auto supply stores, on-line at ebay, etc. It's good for about 600 deg. higher than the copper-based products - actually about 2400 deg.
Loctite is one brand, Dave. You can get it at W.W. Grainger's, some auto supply stores, on-line at ebay, etc. It's good for about 600 deg. higher than the copper-based products - actually about 2400 deg.
John Evens
Arvada, CO
Kitfox SS7 N27JE
EAA Lifetime
Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime
>>Going back with a nickel base anti-seize. <<
That is the best stuff I use
After going through this and royally screwing it up I suggest that anyone working on a 912 exhaust take the time, sand, align and use the nickel anti-seize. I had been smelling exhaust in the cockpit and thought it was just blowing up from the tailpipe but it was the cracks leaking. Caught them on the condition inspection. Now that I have it fixed, I can pull on the muffler and I can move the pipes in the collars and stretch the springs. Way better and hopefully no more cracks. Grainier supply sells the nickel anti-seize. Most auto stores can order it so you don't have to pay shipping.
I had occasion to look up this thread. Over the years I've had to remove my muffler and exhaust a few times. Had to remove head from #3 this week and the exhaust was stuck big time to the muffler. Thought I was safe because I always use anti seize. Well I pretty much used the above advice and other tricks. I finally made a concoction with 50-50 aircraft break fluid and soaked the joint several times and hung 150#s on the end of the muffler. I stopped and picked up some dry ice on the way to the airport to cold soak the exhaust while I planned to heat up the muffler at the connection. I had also made a tool to push the two apart and installed it Friday to leave the weekend for it to sit and absorbe the 50-50 brew. Turns out I didn't use the dry ice. I screwed my contraption a couple turns this morning and saw about 1/32" movement. I tapped on the joint with a plastic hammer and after a few taps, the 150#s pulled it apart.
The picture below was taken after I got the exhaust off #3. I just placed the tool on this exhaust to show how simple it is.
Pete
Leander, TX
Model III SN 1000
912
Grove
Pete, that is absolute genius! Going to make one of those this weekend!
I don't show it in the photo but you'll need to put some shims between the tool and exhaust to keep some space to turn the nut.
Pete
Leander, TX
Model III SN 1000
912
Grove
Mouse Milk works wonders getting "stuck" exhaust parts apart. Available through Spruce.
Stan Specht
Denver, CO
Model IV Speedster
2390 hrs on 912ul
Used Mouse Milk, Moose Milk, Kroil, spray this, dribble that and nothing worked until two friends of mine, one of whom was a machinist, told me to use 5606 and acetone 50/50. Left it soaking for 2 days.
Pete
Leander, TX
Model III SN 1000
912
Grove
This question is related to the exhaust connections. Does anyone wire the springs in place?
Yes, you safety wire the springs thru the center, not too tight because you want the springs to be able to flex. Then run a 1/4" bead of hi temp silicone along the length of the spring to damp out resonant vibrations.
Jim Ott
Portland, OR
Kitfox SS7 flying
Rotax 912ULS