Yep, I agree w/ Lowell if the finish is aerothane. Polytone would not be too much trouble and should match easy. An inside patch would likely do fine if teh puncture was clean. Just my 2.5 cents
Yep, I agree w/ Lowell if the finish is aerothane. Polytone would not be too much trouble and should match easy. An inside patch would likely do fine if teh puncture was clean. Just my 2.5 cents
Dan B
Mesa, AZ
The cut is very clean. The paint is aerothane. So with an inside patch, do I just cut a small piece of fabric and use structural adhesive (Hysol) to cover the cut and hold the patch in place? I guess on the outside I could use a piece of good quality clear tape? It is such a clean cut that this would make it almost invisible since the tape is clear.
dont think you want to use structural adheasive . even thou its aerothane , they would of used poly brush/ poly spray under it . the fabric guru on the field calls them dollar patchs . a piece of fabric cut and pinked in a circle about the size of a silver dollar or what ever it takes to cover the hole with a descent edge distance . on the inside i cleaned the area to be patched with mek and stuck the patch down with a mix of poly tack and poly brush . works good , drys fast and your done in 5 minutes
chuck
kitfox IV 1050
912ul warpdrive
flying B , yelm, wa
One more thought on the structural adhesive fix. I have done it both ways, and the first try with polytac didn't work well for me - lots of distortion in the Aerothane finish, though it was not a simple cut, but a more complex repair - pulled seam on the lift strut fairing. The slow cure of the structural adhesive, gives a chance to manipulate the repair. The last time I did it was on a friends Model IV and we cut a couple of flat pieces of aluminum and covered them with vinyl sheet for a release and positioned them over the patch with a couple of strong magnets holding them to clamp the repair. It was on the side of the airplane behind the lift strut and the repair was flat and virtually invisible. To each his own though.
Lowell
My control rods rub on the seat pan, my fix was to remove the area on the pan and change the conture of the hump to alaw enough clerance, and repair the fiberglass.
Jim H.
I'm pretty sure my classic 4 builders manual says to bend the control rods if the seat interferes with them.
Tom Jones
Classic 4 builder
I checked the manual that came with the plane and I might have overlooked it. It is a 1992 manual so the pics are not that great and is overall getting pretty salty. I have bent the rods and seat clears but with my big butt and another person in the seat I can still feel a little bit of resistance so I may make one more adjustment. There is a crack in the middle of the seat pan and another on one side so I think I will fix those to take the flex out of the pan. If it still rubs after that, I will add the nylon straps to help suspend the pan above the rods.
For what it is worth I put a small piece of wood next to the control rod such that if the pan let go it would sit on the wood not the rod. This is on a 7.
It's not very fancy but it will do the trick (held on by two dabs of Hysol).
Dorsal ~~^~~
Series 7 - Tri-Gear
912 ULS Warp Drive