Instrument Panel - Proposed Layout

[Eric Page]

I think 3/4 extra modules in the middle from Dynon are pretty much unavoidable. I think they're all pretty much required except for the heading bug quick button piece.

All functions of the SkyView system (setting comm frequencies, autopilot control, heading and altitude bugs, altimeter setting, etc.) can be done via the touchscreen interface. The only function-specific control module that's required is the comm radio head, as the EFIS cannot control radio volume. See this post by a Dynon tech on their forum.

[Shadowrider]

Eric brings up a good point. The G3X is the same way as far as interface. Some like to have an interface, but the G3X can control all functions via the touchscreen including autopilot. It was advertised early on that if you don't put in the autopilot head unit you would lose some functions but this is not the case. We opted for no head units for the "clean" panel look. Just FYI for prospective builders.

As for the questions for the VPX here is our experience. VPX has been rock solid! Not even a single weird boot up or glitch in any way. I have 400 hours and Cory has almos 300. In fact Cory had a votlage regulator failure that caused a voltage spike. VPX shutdown the input for the voltage regulator and sent him a CAS message alerting him of a over voltage situation. I happen to be flying and he radioed me and told me. I told him to shutoff his primary alternator, and run it on the backup alternator. Super awesome in my opionion. Cool is how the VPX talks with the G3X or EFIS. IF you wanted to go with only a master switch you could because you can control all switches via G3X. So you could have a switch go bad or stop working bypass the switch and just control it via EFIS.

Initially we thought we had a bad unit in Corys plane, so we returned it to VPX. Long story short, the wigwag feature got selected onto the ADAHARS circuit so when speed came alive the ADAHARS lost power and rebooted. When we where talking with VPX, in all the units they have sold, they have not had one failure. Because of this they where very skeptical that a box had a failure but still agreed to send us a different box to try. When the new box came I figured out the error that was made. They also described to me that they build the box in different "channels" so if a channel where to fail, it doesn't take out the entire unit only ciruirts on that channel. I love all the functions of the VPX and they rewards out way the risk IMO.

The Edge Performance EP912STI is a Rotax912ULS (100hp) With fuel injection and turbo. The fuel injection is running Autronic SM3 ECU. Its a very robust ECU that has been very proven and running on hundreds of EFI kits for Edge performance. Its powered by the battery bus/essential bus. The EP912STI comes with the stock rotax alternator/generator. It only provides 18 amps so if you are running EFIS, Lights, Heater, you will not have the power you need. Edge performance makes another 32amp additonal alternator. It attaches to the back of the engine and extends the engine a few inches. So there are two stators stacked. It comes with additional voltage regulator. So, basically you have two available charging systems. 18amp and 32 amp. You can run them seperate or both if you like. I ran 30 amp breaker switches for each charging system to protect each charging system and to allow the ability to isolate each system. Before heading to the back country, I shut them both off and test each one making sure I am charging. If one fails while flying, one provides plenty of power to operate almost normally. If I am on the stock rotax, I will have to limit lights and heater.

[Redline]

Here's my Dynon panel for a Kitfox STi and 915. Some of the same components you listed, but with much less redundancy. We (my dad and I) were trying to keep it somewhat simple. This uses the Advanced Flight Systems ACM in place of the VP-X, which has been pretty slick so far. KFPanel.jpg

[VictorV]

One other important factor to consider is the size of the component behind the panel. In some cases it can be larger than the visible footprint. For example the Guardian
iPad mount is larger on the back than the opening on the front. You also have to make sure that none of the components are deep enough to touch the angled part of
the airframe or the panel support tubes.

Not necessarily part of the panel but if you want to have trim controlled by buttons on the stick grip you may have to install something similar to the TCW Safety Trim
Booster since the small buttons on the stick grip typically can't carry the amount of current required for the trim motor.

Victor

[Eric Page]

...if you want to have trim controlled by buttons on the stick grip you may have to install something similar to the TCW Safety Trim Booster since the small buttons on the stick grip typically can't carry the amount of current required for the trim motor.

Good point, Victor. The Dynon SV-AP-PANEL autopilot control panel has inputs for trim switches and outputs to drive an elevator trim motor, but those outputs are limited to 2 amps. The linear actuator used in the Kitfox can exceed 2 amps current draw.

[dothedr3w]

this is all super good info!

What the general consensus regarding trim on the stick grip? Most pics I see, guys are just running a bicycle grip or something similar, but a trim switch there seems like it'd be awfully useful

[Shadowrider]

I prefer bike grip with less clutter. Just like push button on top for the radio. I also prefer avionics master so minimal amp draw on the battery so I can run my under wing lighting when camping!

[jiott]

Regarding trim switch on the stick grip-I find the trim on my SS7 is so seldom used it really doesn't matter where it is. I kept mine on the center console where Kitfox recommends and have been very happy with it there. Typically I trim for takeoff before taxi then maybe make a very small adjustment (sometimes none is required since takeoff trim is essentially the same as climbout) for climbout after flaps are raised. Another very small adjustment for level cruise flight may be necessary, and then I never touch it, even if I change cruise altitudes. For landing descent it is still not touched until flaps have been brought in and then I make a major nose up trim adjustment for landing approach speed. At this point I usually land with 1/2 flaps and no further trim adjustment is necessary because full nose up trim is already in place for landing. As you can see, trim is not a frequent thing in flying the SS7 standard wing, so having it on the stick is no major convenience. I of course cannot speak for flying the STi or any of the earlier models. I like to keep my stick simple and not have to install and wire in a module for handling the relatively high current to the trim actuator. Just one guy's opinion.

[airlina]

Regarding trim switch on the stick grip-I find the trim on my SS7 is so seldom used it really doesn't matter where it is. I kept mine on the center console where Kitfox recommends and have been very happy with it there. Typically I trim for takeoff before taxi then maybe make a very small adjustment (sometimes none is required since takeoff trim is essentially the same as climbout) for climbout after flaps are raised. Another very small adjustment for level cruise flight may be necessary, and then I never touch it, even if I change cruise altitudes. For landing descent it is still not touched until flaps have been brought in and then I make a major nose up trim adjustment for landing approach speed. At this point I usually land with 1/2 flaps and no further trim adjustment is necessary because full nose up trim is already in place for landing. As you can see, trim is not a frequent thing in flying the SS7 standard wing, so having it on the stick is no major convenience. I of course cannot speak for flying the STi or any of the earlier models. I like to keep my stick simple and not have to install and wire in a module for handling the relatively high current to the trim actuator. Just one guy's opinion.

I rarely disagree with Jim on his posts but I have a different view with my IO-240 powered Series 5 and maybe that is the difference. My 5 requires trim adjustments constantly . speed changes, configuration changes and power changes all require trim. So much so that when I built mine 20 years ago , I added a selectable slow fast function of the trim speed for precise trimming under different conditions. I like "hands off, feet off" flight in cruise so precise stab trim and cockpit controlled rudder trim was required for me. This is also very important for autopilot use ,if you plan on installing one. Having said all that , my trim on the console has worked fine as it is in a good location and easy to reach. I do like my PTT button on my stick grip. Bruce N199CL

[jiott]

I hear you Airlina, and I expected some differing comments, which is good. We all fly somewhat differently and our airplanes are not identical. It just turned out the way I described for me personally. I found that even major power changes require no trim change because when I increase power its because I want to climb and the nose naturally comes up just the right amount automatically. Conversely, when I pull power its because I want to descend and the nose drops just right for a normal descent without trim change. I also had an instructor who made it a point to teach me to fly with a bare minimum of adjustments thru the flight envelope. For instance, my takeoff trim setting was fine tuned so that that setting worked for takeoff with 1/2 flaps, climbout with flaps retracted, and needed very little if any adjustment for level cruise hands off. Actually even with perfect trim a Kitfox is not really a "hands off" cruising airplane for any length of time.