Mixture cable clamp bolt

[alexM]

I'm hoping someone can explain how this is supposed to work. I have come to the conclusion that at least one of the following is true:
1) It won't work
2) I'm overthinking it.
3) I'm missing parts

PXL_20231213_004735881.jpg
If I put this through the lever arm on my throttle body and put a nut on it, then torque it enough to prevent the cable from sliding, it would be too tight to pivot in the lever arm as the cable moved back and forth. And why would the leave so much room between the head of the bolt and the hole? If it were meant to swivel it should have another hole for a cotter pin, right?

I just did a search online and found this thing called a "B nut" which looks way more like what I need.
cableendb1.jpg

[rv9ralph]

I think you need more parts... I don't know what, just more.

Like a few washers, a swivel sleeve/collar. I looked at McFarlane online catalog and saw some parts that would adapt that to work.

Good luck.

[Geek]

It's another opportunity for you to excel Alex!! If this were easy, mere mortals would be building airplanes. But yeah I agree with Ralph - something is missing there.

G

[alexM]

Okay I think I'm catching on. The McFarland search engine is pretty good at returning 976 hits. I see now that the bolt I have won't work because there should have been particular surgeon paid to the grip length.

The distance to my cable hole doesn't even go all the way through the lever arm on my throttle body. And I see now that the B nut idea would probably be best suited to thin cables like you might have on a heater box.

[PapuaPilot]

You didn't include a picture of what it is being attached to. That would help.

It might work if you use a washer and self-locking nut. Tighten the washer against the wire using the nut. If the remaining shank on the other side of the wire to the bolt head allows rotation it would be okay. You can always add thin washers by the head to take up any slop remaining on the shank.

[jrevens]

It’s a fairly common way to connect a control cable. Phil’s right… that’s how it’s supposed to work. I built & sold many hundreds of cabin heat control boxes for homebuilts, when there was a need for a light, simple design. I used an AN3 bolt & drilled the hole in exactly the right location for the thin SS control horn/arm on my design. The nut is tightened against one of the washers, which contacts the cable & deforms it slightly, enough to securely clamp it. The other washer rides loosely against the cable & the horn, with the head of the bolt on the other side of the horn.

IMG_3185.jpgIMG_3186.jpg

[alexM]

The lever arm on my throttle body is 0.187 thick. The hole on the bolt I have is 0.187 to the center of the cross drilled hole. I need 0.187+half the 0.071 wire+the thickness of an AN960-10 washer+just enough slop to allow the bolt to pivot. THEN it will work. My local IA showed me some examples this morning. He also showed me his drill fixture for cross drilling my own bolts.
I'm off to work for a week. Engine start will be 12/22