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Thread: Stripped Bolt

  1. #1
    Agfoxflyer's Avatar
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    Default Stripped Bolt

    Today in trying to remove my gear box, I removed all of the metric hex head bolts but the last one. It is one of the larger bolts at the bottom of the gear box. Unfortunately I stripped it out. Would a screw extactor work? The torgue value of these bolts are pretty high. I thought about cutting a slot in the top of the bolt and using a large screw driver. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Oh the engine is a 912ULS.
    David E.
    Woodstock, Georgia
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  2. #2

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    Default Re: Stripped Bolt

    I have cut slot into the head before with good results. I used a Moto tool(Dremal) with a small cutoff wheel, then used a flat bit driver that fits tight. Sometime a sharp blow with hammer to the driver. If the bolt has been installed for a long time, I heat the fastener before trying to remove.
    Extractors would be my next thing to try. But if you haven't used them before the correct size drill is very important. I use a small drill bit first to keep in the center of the bolt.
    Good luck

    Jim

  3. #3
    Super Moderator Av8r3400's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stripped Bolt

    If you are talking about a socket head cap screw (Allen head - that's what is on my 912's), you can often tap in a high quality "Torx" driver, of the appropriate size, into the stripped socket hole and it will bite enough to remove the screw.

    If you can find one, I've used impact torx sockets like this with good results.
    Av8r3400
    Kitfox Model IV
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    912UL 105hp Zipper
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  4. #4
    Super Moderator Mark's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stripped Bolt

    I have used 'easy outs' with good success. Also, heating the bolt will help loosen any thread locker on it.
    Mark & Renee Smith
    Boise, ID
    "Build It ..."

  5. #5
    Senior Member t j's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stripped Bolt

    There are some allen head bolts in the Rotax gear boxes that are not your ordinary allen head. Using an ordinary allen wrench will risk stripping them. You need an "Allen key with pilot". There is a nose on the end of the wrench that fits into a hole past the hex hole in the head of the bolt. This keeps the wrench absolutely straight in the hex hole. Those bolts are very hard to get out as they probably have some exotic and expensive lock tight on them.

    Here's a picture of the allen key with pilot
    http://www.ekmpowershop2.com/ekmps/s...-c-e-613-p.asp
    Tom Jones
    Classic 4 builder

  6. #6
    Senior Member Slyfox's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stripped Bolt

    those bolts must have locktite on them, than again it just may the case of aluminum and steel bolt syndrome. If you stripped out the head, do what you can to get a hold of it, I'd have to look at mine to see what your talking about. But before I tried removing it I would heat it up good to melt the locktite or other, if it were me I would use a oxy torch get the bolt red and than try again. I've had to remove many a bolts that didn't even have the locktite with the housing aluminum and that was the only way. I also found another trick and that's to heat the head up red and than smack the screw or bolt with a punch or socket on the head with a hammer. You only want to go until the head turns read don't let it melt down.
    Last edited by Slyfox; 02-22-2010 at 01:44 PM.
    steve
    slyfox
    model IV 1200-flying
    912uls
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  7. #7
    Senior Member SkyPirate's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stripped Bolt

    I've had to weld a bolt with a hex head to some allen head bolts to get them out,.which puts heat to the bolt in the aluminum at the same time but gives you a more solid bolt head to turn,..like Slyfox said as well ..smacking the head of the bolt that's stuck sometimes jars things enough to losen the bolt too,.. just use a punch tool to avoid smacking the casing ..cast aluminum can snap pretty easily if a other then designed load is applied..
    I'd re install a couple bolts to hold the housing from moving until I got the bad bolt out.

    Chase

  8. #8
    Senior Member Slyfox's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stripped Bolt

    some more tricks I've used, after heating up the bolt, very important, I have used a chizel and angle it and hit it in the direction to loosen, Also if you can get a small pair of locking plyers on the head, that works also. Sometimes you can grab either the allen head either in metric or standard in a slightly bigger size and hammer it into the hole. You can also take a torx head and try putting it in there. I work on transmission and there are times that I run into the same thing and the only way to remove the bolt is to heat it up and than remove.

    When you first try to remove the bolt if it's in there tough, that's the time to head up the bolt before stripping it out. I love my oxy tanks for that stuff. Oh and don't use the cutting torch, use the smallest tip you have, the one I like has a 0 on it. The 5 is a little to big and adjust for the smallest flame.
    steve
    slyfox
    model IV 1200-flying
    912uls
    IVO medium in-flight
    RV7A-flying
    IO-360
    constant speed prop

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Stripped Bolt

    I would recommend heating the bolt up, then tighten it to break the loctite bond, and to prevent stripping the hex in the loosening direction, then loosen the screw. Be cautious not to overtighten especially in aluminum.
    Paul Zimmermann
    LSRM-A
    Garland, Texas

  10. #10
    Senior Member Slyfox's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stripped Bolt

    I found that a 6mm hex head socket is the right one, the 1/4 size is a little bit bigger, you might be able to hammer the 1/4 hex socket in there to get it out. If not find an easy out. But heat it first.
    steve
    slyfox
    model IV 1200-flying
    912uls
    IVO medium in-flight
    RV7A-flying
    IO-360
    constant speed prop

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