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Thread: Kitfox Series 7 Super Sport - Show Me Fox

  1. #91

    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Palmyra, MO
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    Default 31 January 2023 - Fuel Fittings

    Removed fuel tanks from their respective wing bays.

    Tapped left tank.

    Applied Permatex 85420 to internal threads of tank and external threads of fuel fitting.

    Installed one finger screen and all other fuel fittings in wing tank.

    Need to order another finger screen, one was crushed with pliers as it was being inserted into tank for dry fitting.

    I would like to have the finger screen about 2 or 3 threads deeper. I am seeking the advice of the kitfox community to see if there are other ways to get the finger screen in deeper without using excessive torque.

    I have been advised by a builder that I should try a Skip Tooth Tap. My current tap will cut to a certain point and stop.

  2. #92
    Senior Member PapuaPilot's Avatar
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    Nov 2013
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    Default Re: Kitfox Series 7 Super Sport - Show Me Fox

    If the finger screen threads are fully engaged you don't need it to go in any further. I think you are actually saying you want to increase the clearance of the elbow from the fuselage where the fuel hose will connect, right? The 2-3 turns you are suggesting will get you about 1/8" farther in; 3 turns of the 1/4" NPT would be 0.167" or just a bit over 5/32".

    You have a few options:
    - Use a tap in the tank that can remove more fiberglass
    - Use a die on the elbow fitting and take a couple turns of brass off (if there is enough material remaining to do so)
    - Use a tap on the inside or die on the outside of the reducer and remove a couple of turns of brass (if there is enough material to do so)
    Phil Nelson
    A&P-IA, Maintenance Instructor
    KF 5 Outback, Cont. IO-240
    Flying since 2016

  3. #93
    Senior Member
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    Aug 2008
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    Harvard, IL
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    Default Re: Kitfox Series 7 Super Sport - Show Me Fox

    If it is elbow clearance you're looking for, you could also look into using banjo fittings which have been discussed here before.

    Rick

  4. #94

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    Oct 2019
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    Palmyra, MO
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    Default Re: Kitfox Series 7 Super Sport - Show Me Fox

    I suppose that would be another way of saying what I am trying to accomplish.

    I would like to make the finger screen & elbow as compact as possible. My thoughts with trying to get the finger screen to turn into the tank about 3 more threads would provide additional clearance from the No. 1 rib IF I should ever need to remove the elbow or finger screen at some point in time. I guess you could say I would like to build it with ongoing maintenance in mind.

    At this time I cannot run my tap into the tank any deeper. It is acting like the fittings. It will reach a certain depth and won’t go any further. I have thought about trying to take a piece of sandpaper and trying to knock down the crests of the threads which might allow the tap to go deeper. Without knowing this would work
    I am apprehensive to try it.


    Quote Originally Posted by PapuaPilot View Post
    If the finger screen threads are fully engaged you don't need it to go in any further. I think you are actually saying you want to increase the clearance of the elbow from the fuselage where the fuel hose will connect, right? The 2-3 turns you are suggesting will get you about 1/8" farther in; 3 turns of the 1/4" NPT would be 0.167" or just a bit over 5/32".

    You have a few options:
    - Use a tap in the tank that can remove more fiberglass
    - Use a die on the elbow fitting and take a couple turns of brass off (if there is enough material remaining to do so)
    - Use a tap on the inside or die on the outside of the reducer and remove a couple of turns of brass (if there is enough material to do so)

  5. #95

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    Oct 2019
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    Default Re: Kitfox Series 7 Super Sport - Show Me Fox

    I have considered the Banjo fitting. I really like the idea. I know Kitfox sells a kit for about 100 dollars each. I also found a thread on this forum discussing their use and how to assemble them at a much more reasonable cost. Around 20 dollars if memory serves me right.

    Alex M also found a fitting on eBay which goes from 1/4 NPT to an AN fitting.

    Quote Originally Posted by bumsteer View Post
    If it is elbow clearance you're looking for, you could also look into using banjo fittings which have been discussed here before.

    Rick

  6. #96

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    Oct 2019
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    Palmyra, MO
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    Default 3 Jan 2023 - Jury Struts & Wingtip

    Continuing to work on Jury Struts

    Attempt to level the fuselage but unable to raise tail high enough. Removed 8.50x6 tires and placed a set of used 6.00x6 tires on. I was able to level the fuselage fore and aft using a step ladder and lumber. C Clamps and safety straps are put in place to prevent the tail from unintentionally falling.

    Adjusted left and right by manipulating tire pressure.

    Ran a piece of mason line along the jury struts. Found that the right front jury strut is drooping about 3/8” in the middle. When I discovered this I contacted Brandon at the factory and asked him to call. He advised this is a typical finding and the propose of the jury strut is to prevent it from sagging. If the front strut is manipulated and pulled up in alignment with the mason line all parts of the strut align properly. I have probably spent a total of 12 hours trying to fit this jury strut and that was all it took to solve the problem.

    I was successfully able to get both jury struts dry fit in short order.

    The left front jury strut is bowed approximately 1/8 to 1/4” up. It was easily manipulated and a close approximation to its final location was found.

    I will wait for a warmer day to move the project outside where I can stand back severel feet to ensure there is no twist prior to drilling, bonding, and riveting the Jury Strut Brackets.

    Brandon also advised I should try to keep the brackets as long as possible because if they are trimmed too much the hardware used to attach the strut will interfere with the fabric.

    Ordered another finger strainer to replace the one I had crushed with pliers.

    Began fitting the aluminum doubler to the wingtip. I plan on seeking clarification of the instructions. The manual says that I need to wait intil the aircraft has been covered and painted before I Hysol and river the doubler in place. I would think this would result in interference with bonding because there is a layer of fabric between the No. 10 rib capstrip and the doubler. Poly fiber states in no uncertain terms that their adhesive works for shear but not peel.

  7. #97
    Senior Member jrevens's Avatar
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    Default Re: Kitfox Series 7 Super Sport - Show Me Fox

    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Murphy View Post
    I ... I have thought about trying to take a piece of sandpaper and trying to knock down the crests of the threads which might allow the tap to go deeper. Without knowing this would work
    I am apprehensive to try it.
    Definitely don't do that!
    John Evens
    Arvada, CO
    Kitfox SS7 N27JE
    EAA Lifetime
    Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime

  8. #98
    Senior Member
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    Feb 2020
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    Steilacoom, WA
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    Default Re: Kitfox Series 7 Super Sport - Show Me Fox

    I'm with John. Absolutely do not do that. The whole point of tapered threads is to make fluid tight connections and all you'd be doing is defeating that.

    Brandon also advised I should try to keep the brackets as long as possible because if they are trimmed too much the hardware used to attach the strut will interfere with the fabric.
    That's what happened to me, at least with my front attach points. I've figured out a way forward but if I had to do it over again I would have moved the jury struts inboard compared to the dimension in the manual, just enough to get the job done.

    Began fitting the aluminum doubler to the wingtip. I plan on seeking clarification of the instructions. The manual says that I need to wait until the aircraft has been covered and painted before I Hysol and river the doubler in place.
    I struggled with this too, and found build threads where people did things differently. In the end I did the fit up and drilling of the strips then set them aside. I covered the wings and wrapped the covering material 1/4 to 3/8" over that #10 cap strip. That still left some varnished wood plus the rivets to hold those strips solidly.
    Kitfox 5 (under construction)
    Commercial SE/ME, CFII

  9. #99

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    Oct 2019
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    Palmyra, MO
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    Default 5 Feb 2023 - Wing Tips

    Installed aluminum strips on left wing tip.

    Used dremel to remove excess Hysol from wing rib. This increased edge margins on the piece of aluminum strip.

    Cut strips to length. Was able to use a full length piece on the top. This may need to be cut down for the required rivet for the wings trailing edge. The other option would be to install the rivet on the inboard side of rib 10.

    Trace the edge of a AN10 washer to layout a radius for the corners of the cap strip. Use file to radius corners.

    Laid out 2” rivet pattern. Centered 2” pattern around rear spar tube to ensure a rivet will not be placed over the top of the spar tube.

    There is 3/8” between the shear web of the rib and the outboard edge of the cap strip. Measured 3/16” from the outboard edge of the cap strip.

    Using a drill jig to ensure holes that are perpendicular to the rib cap strip drilled 1/8” rivet holes in cap strip.

    Sanded inside edge of cap strip to clean up and splinters and burrs. Used side clamp clecos to clamp aluminum strip to cap strip. Match drilled using drill jig.

    Drilled final hole size with No. 30 bit.

    Countersink wood cap strip with micro stop cutter.

    Removed aluminum strip, debur edges and drill holes.

    Cleco aluminum strips in place.

    Repeat process on right wing. Stopped after cutting aluminum strips to length and placing a radius on the corners.

    Looking at how all the parts come together I may need to trim some more off the trailing edge of the aluminum strips to accommodate for the adhesive used to hold the trailing edge of the wingtip together.

  10. #100

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    Oct 2019
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    Default 7 Feb 2023 - Wing Tip

    Completed work on the right wing tip.

    Laid out 2” rivet pattern 3/16” from outboard edge of rib No 10.

    Drilled pattern using jig to ensure hole is perpendicular to capstrip. Sand holes to debur. Match drill aluminum strip. Debur aluminum strip. Countersink capstrip. Cleco aluminum strip into place.

    Check mason line on lift struts.

    Develop plans for rotisserie. I saw where one builder used an engine stand and a sawhorse with a PVC Y on one end for a wing stand. I still have my jigs which I made for the wing. I could modify these jigs to work in sa similar fashion.

    Review instructions and sign off completed steps.

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