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Thread: Kitfox Series 7 Super Sport - Show Me Fox

  1. #211

    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Palmyra, MO
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    162

    Default Re: Kitfox Series 7 Super Sport - Show Me Fox

    Quote Originally Posted by jrevens View Post
    Hi Jason,

    I made some scuff plates for my floorboards out of 0.015" stainless steel shim stock. I think the material was "half-hard", so it is very durable & scratch-resistant, has a nice springy temper and cuts really cleanly & easily with smooth jaw hand shears. I put a "scuffed" finish on them with a scotch bright pad. After doing that I decided I really liked the look of the carpet from Kitfox, and ended up installing that.
    Thanks John,

    I will look into that material. The upholstery Kitfox sells does look pretty sharp. I am going to try and do my own with the goal of having an airplane that is unique and not quite like the rest. Admittedly I may have gotten in a little over my head on the upholstery side of the world.

    I did meet a gentleman this year at the Reno Air Races who is now retired but did upholstery work for a living. I am hoping to lean on him and get some guidance when I get to that part of the project.

    One benefit I can think carpet would offer is it would collect bits of dirt and debris which would otherwise work its way beneath the floorboards and possibly end up between the fabric and tubes.

  2. #212

    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Palmyra, MO
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    162

    Default Dress out false ribs and dress up leading edge of wing tank.

    Please excuse the terrible lighting on the photo of the underside of the wing tank. Sanded the Superfil used to dress out the false ribs bonded to the wing tank.

    Flipped the wing with the assistance of my son. Sanded the top surface of the wing tank smooth. There were many imperfections from what looked like dust settling in the resin as it had cured. This tank is in much better shape than my other tank. The scallops which were quite noticeable on my other wing tank was not there. The leading edge of the tank is dished out so I applied Superfil to the leading edge. I will use the leading edge template to guide my sanding efforts and create a nice smooth transition between the leading edge material and the wing tank.

    the inboard side of the tank required special attention, the leading edge on the inboard side was about 3/8 tall vs 1/4 on the outboard side. Using 100 grit I gently sanded the leading edge of the inboard side down with the goal of creating a smoother transition. I sanded about 3/8 inch back and about 1/16 down. There was approximately 1/2 of tank material that was not disturbed to ensure the tank would not develop a leak.
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  3. #213
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Jun 2010
    Location
    Portland, OR
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    2,954

    Default Re: Kitfox Series 7 Super Sport - Show Me Fox

    I'm not sure whether I should bring this up or not; maybe some others will say there is no problem. My concern is that the wing flexes a lot in flight and that is why Kitfox never had success with rigid aluminum tanks. That is also why they specify mounting the tanks to the spars with a flexible silicone non-hardening adhesive. I would be somewhat concerned in overriding this built-in flexibility by essentially gluing the tank leading edge to the front spar with SuperFill, which cures hard. Not sure if you are doing the same to the aft edge and rear spar. No problem with filling in low spots, roughness, fairing out the shape etc. but actually attaching to the spars could be a problem. Of course the new Series 7 uses the fiberglass Laker Leading Edge to cover the front tank to spar gap, so there is no issue as I describe. Someone who has done it successfully tell me I am predicting a tempest in a teapot.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  4. #214

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    Oct 2019
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    Palmyra, MO
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    162

    Default Re: Kitfox Series 7 Super Sport - Show Me Fox

    Jim, Thank you for the comment. You do make a very good point regarding the flex of the wing... I bet it would be best for me to sand down until I see the fiberglass of the wing tank where the leading edge of the tank joins the spar.

    The goal was to fill those low spots and make a nice smooth transition from the leading edge to the upper camber. The tank of my left wing had large scallops between the baffles and I ended up doing the entire top. I did not put anything on the rear of the tank because I figured that the fabric may not even be touching that part of the wing tank.

  5. #215

    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Palmyra, MO
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    Default Re: Kitfox Series 7 Super Sport - Show Me Fox

    Once again it has been quite some time since I have been able to dedicate much time to the build.

    Since my last posting I have received my flight instructor rating and I have started work on my CFII rating.

    I have dedicated a lot of thought to the fitting my right wings flaperon. This evening I recruited my boys in assisting me with hanging the flaperon back on the right wing and taking measurements.

    Using the No 3 rib as my Zero. The No 1 rib measures 35 1/2. The No 5 rib measures 35 1/2 center to center. The No 7 rib measures 71 center to center. The No 9 rib measures 106 3/8 where it should measure 106 1/2. This falls within the tolerances outlined in p. 3 of the build manual.

    I also have been working on a transition between the landing gear reinforcements at the bottom of the fuselage.

    The tubing used on the fuselage is 1/2 with powder coating measures 0.515.

    5/8 tube with a wall thickness of 0.058 would have an internal diameter of 0.509 which should have a snug fit.

    I also want to ensure there is plenty of fuselage tubing for the fabric to bond to when it is attached.

    I cut a piece of 5/8 tubing in half using a pipe cutter. With any luck I will be able to use my pull saw and cut it lengthwise. I need one piece approximately 19 inches in length and the other approximately 7 inches in length. I asked the local machine shop if they could cut it for me and they wanted $150 to run it through their band saw. I am going to give it a try with my pull saw otherwise I can buy my own band saw for that price and have a band saw after I'm finished.

    I will need to mix up some SuperFil and make some transitions between my false ribs and the leading edge. Then I plan on sealing all of the wood with epoxy varnish and paint the aluminum with epoxy primer. I will need to make a trip back to St Louis to pickup epoxy reducer. I had two cans and they both developed a leak. I retained the chemical but one had developed rust inside the container and contaminated the clear one.

    I will also be pulling the other wing down and sanding all the false ribs down with my sanding block like I did on the right wing. Then sand all the sharp edges and seal similar to the right wing.
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  6. #216

    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Palmyra, MO
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    Default Re: Kitfox Series 7 Super Sport - Show Me Fox

    Split 5/8 tube lengthwise

    I plan to bond this to the lower longeron to streamline the landing gear bracing.

  7. #217

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    Oct 2019
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    Palmyra, MO
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    Default 11 February 2024 - Faring out landing gear brackets

    Fit 5/8 tube which had been previously cut in half around tubing of fuselage. This was quite the challenge as the tubing of the longeron was bowed as well as large weld beads present.

    Used popsicle sticks to ensure the tube was flush outboard as well as vertical.

    Longeron and aluminum tube were prepped with scotchbrite and denatured alcohol. I filled the pipe with hysol for 100% bond with the longeron.

    I will come back in with hysol and make a nice clean fillet at the joints and ensure water will be unable to get between the aluminum and the longeron. I will likely use some SuperFil to make a transition between the landing gear brackets and faring tube.
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  8. #218

    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Palmyra, MO
    Posts
    162

    Default 12 February 2024 - Streamlining the belly of the aircraft

    Finished installing the split tubing along the longerons of the fuselage.

    These will take the tiniest amount of SuperFil to blend all of the areas together.

    I plan on revisiting my doorframes after this. I was advised by a very well informed builder that you should take a straight edge and run it from the door frame to the belly of the aircraft. You should tweak the door frames until they align with the straight edge.
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