Kitfox Series 7 Super Sport - Show Me Fox

[jrevens]

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Took creepy selfie to identify myself as the builder in builders log.
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Didn’t look creepy to me Jason… good to include yourself in pictures of the build every once in awhile!
Keep up the good work!

[Hardwood]

I would also suggest ordering a bag of micro balloons to use with the Superfil.

Hello Jason, I just checked my inventory and it looks like I have a 6 oz. Bag of microbaloons. Did you need more than that? If so I’ll augment it with another order, I’m guessing it is pretty fluffy stuff but I will have to go and check it out. I assume you add it in to the Superfil just like you do the Flox with the Hysol?

I don’t think any comments I have will help you out as you appear to be VERY detailed and methodical. I am learning from you, if I think I can offer anything to help out I will surely do so, however you are way ahead of me and I need to kick it into high gear. Fumbling with my rudder pedal setup at the moment.

Have a great day and keep up the good work. P.S. I also saw your list of tools posted and will read it over to see if I’m missing anything special.

Matt

[jiott]

I have never added microballoons to SuperFill. It is already so light that it seems pointless for weight savings. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe SuperFill already has microballoons as it comes in the can.
MB will help reduce sag, but SuperFill is not very runny, especially if you let it set for a bit.
Most of my MB that came in the kit were used in the Hysol as instructed in the build manual (for instance in mounting lift strut brackets).

[Jason Murphy]

I bought a bag before I got my kit. I would say they probably give you just enough to get the job done if you don’t waste anything.

Either way really glad I have the extra micro and flocked cotton.

You are correct, I added the micro to the Superfil to make it a little thicker when I apply it heavy. I did not use it for weight savings.


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[Jason Murphy]

Hello Jason, I just checked my inventory and it looks like I have a 6 oz. Bag of microbaloons. Did you need more than that? If so I’ll augment it with another order, I’m guessing it is pretty fluffy stuff but I will have to go and check it out. I assume you add it in to the Superfil just like you do the Flox with the Hysol?

I don’t think any comments I have will help you out as you appear to be VERY detailed and methodical. I am learning from you, if I think I can offer anything to help out I will surely do so, however you are way ahead of me and I need to kick it into high gear. Fumbling with my rudder pedal setup at the moment.

Have a great day and keep up the good work. P.S. I also saw your list of tools posted and will read it over to see if I’m missing anything special.

Matt

Oh I will be happy to tell you every mistake I made. I have found that by the time you finish something up you you have figured out a better way than you had originally started.

Regarding the micro I used more than what they sent in the kit. You will probably find there is very little room for waste and you have been provided just enough to get the job done.

I will use the stiffener material for the ribs in the tail section. You should plan that carefully or you will run out.


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[Jason Murphy]

The No.1 rib on the right has been bonded in place.

Marked a uniform line on inboard edge of right wing tank sanded to create a uniform gap between No.1 rib and wing tank.

Marked leading and trailing edge of wing tank and sanded to square the leading and trailing edge.

The inboard edge of the leading edge is approximately 1/2” thick and the outboard edge of the leading edge is approximately 1/4”. Will be searching for a solution to create a uniform transition between the leading edge of the wing tank and the leading edge of the wing.



Made another visit to Harlan to check out his interior to make my final decisions for selecting the interior of my kit. I will be able to fit comfortably with a 2” bottom and a 1” back. A 2” back will cause crowding of my bits with full aft stick.

Discussed using a Banjo fitting for the fuel tank. There are a few threads on this website discussing their use and various modalities.

I received a few other suggestions while I was visiting.
1. Install a thermostat in-line with the coolant. Thermbob
2. Install a shut off valve between a wing tank to prevent cross feeding if you are parked on a surface that is not level.
3. Fuel pressure sensor will assist you in diagnosing an upstream problem (suction) vs downstream problem (fuel filter clogging)
4. Consider using a flush rivet on trailing edge. If edge margins allow.
5. Consider using a shorter rivet when installing flaperon brackets that will not protrude through underside of wing.
6. GDL51R will provide ADSB and will interface with G3X
7. The factory will relieve the rear spar approximately 1/2 to 3/4” from the No 1 rib. Approximately 1 1/2 total

[Jason Murphy]

Installed the left front spar attach fitting.

Fit the front lug of the fuselage to the left wing.

Cut relief on aft of rear spar for folding wing. Used a paper template made from an index card and a bottle cap. The carry through spar is 1.5” in diameter. Used a bottle cap that was slightly larger. This is a rough cut and will likely require additional fitting in the future. The goal is to get the cutout close. I will perform additional fitting at the time I mount Jury Struts.

Prep and bond Left No. 1 rib using Hysol and Flox

Used a small amount of extra Hysol with flox and filled around the window trim to give the Velcro which the baggage sack mounts to a little more flat surface.

Sculpted Hysol and removed excess with popsicle stick. Using finger wetted with alcohol to create final fillets.

Provided additional relief on the right rear spar to accommodate wing folding. Additional relief will likely be required in the future. Rough cuts have been made. I will need to re prime the right side of the rear carry through spar as I sanded through in a few points.






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[Jason Murphy]

Visited by my brother and sister in law. Showed progress since the last visit.

Developing plan for avionics. I believe I will order the hardware determine location where hardware will be installed and begin developing plans for wiring.

Sanded relief cut into No. 1 rib on each side for fuel lines per instructions. I will dry fit tanks to ensure adequate relief cuts have been made. Entertaining the idea of using a banjo fitting in the fuel tank connection to facilitate maintenance. There are banjo fittings available from Kitfox as well as other vendors. There is an interesting discussion on Team Kitfox regarding their use.

Visited by the family. The kids decided to play airplane. I believe I have made my decision regarding upholstery. I am leaning towards creating my own. Using a spray on bed liner in the cargo bay and on the seat pan. Use charcoal unisuede on the seats. Black unisuede on the glare shield. Then paint the console a dark grey. The controls I will sandblast paint with epoxy primer and finish coat them in black.

Squared up trailing edge of left wing tank.

Need to complete leak test and rinse inside of tanks with solvent.

Organize rivets into parts bin. Inventory washers and nuts plan on ordering extras.

Ordered for a transport kit to facilitate handling during the build process, storage, and to tow the aircraft to the airport. I should make a pad to protect the horizontal stabilizer and potentially the leading edge of the wing.

Still concerned regarding the right wing tank. The inboard leading edge is approximately twice the thickness of the outboard edge.

For a sanity check attempt to dry fit leading edge material. Dressed up shipping damage on the leading edge material. Using the leading edge template taped leading edge to the right wing. Will read additional instructions regarding installing the leading edge material. If I recall correctly the instructions direct you to create a smooth transition between the leading edge and the wing tank using super fil. I will follow up on this.

There is about a 1/2” gap between the seat pan and the frame. I wonder if I will be able to remedy this.50CA0B01-59F9-4397-BB01-69A02B78C139.jpgB1B10EB1-3E0D-4290-9E88-E9B7E398C19F.jpgF3D3F6FA-C229-4D07-A117-591FE86B5A43.jpg

[Jason Murphy]

Completed squaring edges of wing tanks.

Used sandpaper and sanding block to smooth and round edges.

After all sanding is complete perform leak test to check the integrity of the tanks.

Performed first and second rinse using instructions attached to the wing tank.

Used the supplied hardware to plug the holes in the tank. Purchased 1' of vinyl tubing and kinked it on itself and taped it. Slipped the tubing onto the barbed fittings to act as a plug. Purchased a 3/8” NPT tubing plug for the remaining hole. Used fuel cap for the filling neck. Checked to ensure the acetone would not soften the rubber seal prior to rinsing. This worked very well and there was minimal spillage.

[Jason Murphy]

Completed third rinse of fuel tanks per instructions.

Continue to organize parts into parts boxes. Have 1 box each for Rivets, Washers, and Nuts. Have an additional box for miscellaneous items.

Fit, Drill, Debur, Prep, Bond & Rivet Flaperon Reinforcement Brackets. Removed excess Hysol with mixing stick. Clean with alcohol.

Ream and debur flaperon attachment brackets.

Attempt to varnish tank side of ribs no 1 & 3. Mixed 15 mL varnish thinned to 50%. Was able to complete L1 Outboard, L3 Inboard, and R1 Outboard. R3 inboard still needs first coat.

Spoke with Brandon regarding tapping the wing tanks. He advised that there is a low probability the wing tanks will need any additional tapping. They have an index mark on their taps at the factory which they use to set the depth.

Asked clarification about the instructions. The manual states make the fittings snug. I stated what that says to me is they should be hand tight and I shouldn't use a wrench on them. Brandon advised it is acceptable to use a wrench on them. The seal should be between the tank and the fitting. The Permatex Sealant is a second measure not primary.