Kitfox Series 7 Super Sport - Show Me Fox

[Jason Murphy]

Ordered G3x, LRU Kit, and Install Kits from Stein Air.

Stein Air advised they would provide builder support, fabricate wiring harnesses, provide wiring diagrams after the sale. The cost for Stein Air to build a basic wiring harness for a G3x is approximately $1500. Add an autopilot $500. Add a Com Radio $500. GMU 11/22 $150. Labor $725. Prices have been rounded. If I simply wanted a diagram of how to assemble the wiring harness myself the cost would be $625 because I purchased the avionics from them. It would be double if I had purchased the avionics elsewhere. Wiring diagram is free if they assemble the harness.

I was advised by Kitfox in no uncertain terms they would be happy to sell me avionics but they will not assist me with support after the sale because they do not want to devalue their drop in kit.

[Jason Murphy]

Regarding the cured Hysol, I guess I should clarify a little bit.

I guess I should say semi cured Hysol, it had been about about 30 to 45 min since it had been mixed and was getting pretty setup. I also added micro balloons for corrosion protection and to thicken it a bit and make sure it stays where I put it.

Denatured Alcohol and paper towels work well for the first hour or so. After it gets setup you need to upgrade to something that’s a little abrasive like scotch brite and denatured alcohol. Beyond a day or two when it’s fully cured your pretty much stuck with abrasives like sandpaper.

Thanks for checking out my build log, feel free to comment or make suggestions.


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[Jason Murphy]

When I spoke with Whirlwind on the phone they said the blades can go on in any order.

I requested they email me and explain how this works so I am better able to understand. I will post a screenshot on here when they return the email.


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[Jason Murphy]

Completed squaring edges of wing tanks.

Used sandpaper and sanding block to smooth and round edges.

After all sanding is complete perform leak test to check the integrity of the tanks.

Performed first and second rinse using instructions attached to the wing tank.

Used the supplied hardware to plug the holes in the tank. Purchased 1' of vinyl tubing and kinked it on itself and taped it. Slipped the tubing onto the barbed fittings to act as a plug. Purchased a 3/8” NPT tubing plug for the remaining hole. Used fuel cap for the filling neck. Checked to ensure the acetone would not soften the rubber seal prior to rinsing. This worked very well and there was minimal spillage.

[Jason Murphy]

Installed No. 1 rib on Right Wing. Used yard sticks on the leading edge, trailing edge, top and bottom cap strips to ensure No. 1 rib is parallel to No. 3 rib. Allowed Hysol to cure for 1 hour after mixing and removed excess Hysol and dressed the fillets.

Sanded edge of wing tanks to ensure there is an even gap with the adjacent rib. Placed wing tank fully forward against the front spar. Used a square to mark equal distance from the adjacent rib. Sanded the minimum necessary to ensure the edge of the tank is straight and the gap between the rib and tank is even.

Placed masking tape on ribs and measured equal distances down the rib and made a line. Using a yardstick drawn a straight line on the front and rear of the tank. Will sand to the line to true the leading edge and trailing edge of the wing tanks.

I was advised that a minimum of 9/16” flange is required on the wing tanks and after I sand the edges I need to check for leaks.

I was also advised by Brandon at the factory that I need to leave at least 3/8” gap between the rib and the wing tank for rib stitching. I should also omit the step in the manual that instructs the builder to fill the gap between the wing tank and the rib with Hysol once again for rib stitching.

Rough cut the rear spar for the carry through spar when the wings are folded. This will require additional fitting in the future.

Took creepy selfie to identify myself as the builder in builders log.










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[jrevens]

…

Took creepy selfie to identify myself as the builder in builders log.
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Didn’t look creepy to me Jason… good to include yourself in pictures of the build every once in awhile!
Keep up the good work!

[Jason Murphy]

Completed third rinse of fuel tanks per instructions.

Continue to organize parts into parts boxes. Have 1 box each for Rivets, Washers, and Nuts. Have an additional box for miscellaneous items.

Fit, Drill, Debur, Prep, Bond & Rivet Flaperon Reinforcement Brackets. Removed excess Hysol with mixing stick. Clean with alcohol.

Ream and debur flaperon attachment brackets.

Attempt to varnish tank side of ribs no 1 & 3. Mixed 15 mL varnish thinned to 50%. Was able to complete L1 Outboard, L3 Inboard, and R1 Outboard. R3 inboard still needs first coat.

Spoke with Brandon regarding tapping the wing tanks. He advised that there is a low probability the wing tanks will need any additional tapping. They have an index mark on their taps at the factory which they use to set the depth.

Asked clarification about the instructions. The manual states make the fittings snug. I stated what that says to me is they should be hand tight and I shouldn't use a wrench on them. Brandon advised it is acceptable to use a wrench on them. The seal should be between the tank and the fitting. The Permatex Sealant is a second measure not primary.

[Shadowrider]

Things are looking good! Did Brandon tell you about the banjo fittings for fuel tanks? Both of our planes on the left tanks started to leak so we had to retro fit them. IMO banjo fittings are the way to go. Allows you to get the fitting tight and in the correct orientation.

[Jason Murphy]

I bought a bag before I got my kit. I would say they probably give you just enough to get the job done if you don’t waste anything.

Either way really glad I have the extra micro and flocked cotton.

You are correct, I added the micro to the Superfil to make it a little thicker when I apply it heavy. I did not use it for weight savings.


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[Jason Murphy]

Installed the left front spar attach fitting.

Fit the front lug of the fuselage to the left wing.

Cut relief on aft of rear spar for folding wing. Used a paper template made from an index card and a bottle cap. The carry through spar is 1.5” in diameter. Used a bottle cap that was slightly larger. This is a rough cut and will likely require additional fitting in the future. The goal is to get the cutout close. I will perform additional fitting at the time I mount Jury Struts.

Prep and bond Left No. 1 rib using Hysol and Flox

Used a small amount of extra Hysol with flox and filled around the window trim to give the Velcro which the baggage sack mounts to a little more flat surface.

Sculpted Hysol and removed excess with popsicle stick. Using finger wetted with alcohol to create final fillets.

Provided additional relief on the right rear spar to accommodate wing folding. Additional relief will likely be required in the future. Rough cuts have been made. I will need to re prime the right side of the rear carry through spar as I sanded through in a few points.






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