Kitfox Series 7 Super Sport - Show Me Fox

[Jason Murphy]

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[Jason Murphy]

Bond and Rivet Lift Strut Brackets. This job is a mess.

Made relief cuts for spar attach brackets in No.1 rib.

Dry fit left fuel tank.

Received previously loved propeller from a friend and fellow Kitfox owner.

[Hardwood]

I was about to ask what the blue stuff was inside of that last rib but then you answered my questions. I do like the matching contours you have on the corners of the horizontal stabilizer and the elevator. I just ordered some superfil so I think I’ll be getting my hands dirty soon. Matt

[Hardwood]

“Had to remove cured hysol from trailing edge of wing.”

Jason, did you use chemicals to remove that Hysol or just sanded it? I have some areas on my horizontal stabilizer that needs cleanup I just haven’t gotten to that yet so I thought I should ask. I do believe the wings in my garage are hanging by the forward spar so I also need to look up what you mentioned in the wing manual. You are documenting everything quite well, thanks for the details.

[Jason Murphy]

Regarding the cured Hysol, I guess I should clarify a little bit.

I guess I should say semi cured Hysol, it had been about about 30 to 45 min since it had been mixed and was getting pretty setup. I also added micro balloons for corrosion protection and to thicken it a bit and make sure it stays where I put it.

Denatured Alcohol and paper towels work well for the first hour or so. After it gets setup you need to upgrade to something that’s a little abrasive like scotch brite and denatured alcohol. Beyond a day or two when it’s fully cured your pretty much stuck with abrasives like sandpaper.

Thanks for checking out my build log, feel free to comment or make suggestions.


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[Jason Murphy]

I was about to ask what the blue stuff was inside of that last rib but then you answered my questions. I do like the matching contours you have on the corners of the horizontal stabilizer and the elevator. I just ordered some superfil so I think I’ll be getting my hands dirty soon. Matt

I would also suggest ordering a bag of micro balloons to use with the Superfil. Using it like the flocked cotton it will keep the Superfil from sagging. I just bought the small bag from aircraft spruce and ended up with a bag that’s bigger than an ice cream tub.

Yes Superfil is an absolute must. If you look at my original post with the link to my build log on the EAA build log I just posted an email I had sent to someone with a list of tools that I have used which made life easier.


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[Jason Murphy]

Bond and Rivet Lift Strut Brackets on Right Wing. Of all the tasks to complete both required and self induced no matter how tedious this is my least favorite. I failed to mention it during a previous post. Used a piece of mason line to ensure holes which must be drilled are aligned with rivet line in the spar.

Continue polishing landing gear. They are beginning to come around. Minor distortions from not using a sanding block for initial polish are becoming less prominent.

[Jason Murphy]

Attached is an email to someone interested in a list of tools that I found handy during the build. This is by no means a comprehensive list.

This isn't an inclusive list and it's what I have found helpful. I apologize about the delay but I wanted to meddle through my work area.

Angle Drill (I am using an Avery) incredible tool to get into tight places.

Numbered, lettered, fractional drill bit set (or bits that are just under the size of the reamer) use these to clean out powder coating so your reamer fits in. Recently I have used a letter N drill before reaming 5/16 holes

Drill bit stops. Must have! Prevents gouging critical parts when you break through.

Sheet metal seamer and snips. To “massage” or tweak the metal. Seamer spreads out the pressure and makes a more uniform bend.

1/8, 1/4, 3/8 NPT taps (don't go out and buy them

At least 100 1/8” clecos

Reloading Scale / Kitchen scale (something to
Measure in grams) to mix Hysol and Superfil with. I typically will
Mix batches of about 20 grams of Hysol at a time. I do a lot of mixing but I have wasted very little product.

20 mL slip tip (not leur-lok) syringes. Applying Hysol reuse until the plunger pulls out and toss when your done with them.

Popsicle sticks, lots! You will use 2 or 3 each time you mix hysol.

Supplemental lighting. Work Lights, “trouble” lights, as much light as you can get!

Storage / Organization options. I used ziplock bags and a plastic shoebox. I sorted the hardware according to type bolts, nuts, washers, ect and put the bags of parts into ziplock. So this ziplock bag contains all the bolts for this part of the project.

Needle files (get a decent set) use mine to debur where I have drilled fix an errant hole ect. I use these frequently. Highly recommend.

Sandpaper silicone carbide variety. I have up to 2500 grit but I also like my aluminum parts polished. (Flitz polish does a great job, you can also use it on plastic. I have not tried it on a windshield yet but they were doing it at Oshkosh.

Sanding blocks, a variety of sizes. I used a 1x2 that was about 2 ft long to help shape the end caps on my rudder and horizontal. Currently using a 1/4 sheet and 1/3 sheet polishing my main landing gear.


Superfil lightweight body filler not included in the kit. You can fix a lot of sins with Superfil and sandpaper.

Epoxy primer (not in the kit) and catalyst. Once again needed to cover bare metal and over SuperD that covers metal. Superfil over wood will be covered with epoxy varnish (included in the kit)

Micro stop countersink - 100 degree countersink used with flush rivets. Sure you can use a debur tool but you have zero control over the depth. Also countersink bits for the tool.

Debur tool (I have an Avery pretty happy with it.)

Going back to Clecos, side clamp clecos are amazing for clamping the edges of sheet metal. They have a small footprint and a firm grip what more can you ask for. A bit spendy at $5 each but the right tool for the job. I have 1” models.

Rivet squeezer (with dimple dies) you will eventually use solid rivets on the kit. A squeezer can be used in the solid rivets as well as dimpling sheet metal.

Dimple dies (comes with a squeezer) if you choose not to get a squeezer then ATS sells dimple dies you use in your hand rivet puller.

Hand rivet puller. I have a Marson super happy with it. I also bought a cheap sacrificial one that I don't care if I grind on (5 bucks at Walmart)

While we are on the topic of rivet guns… I bought a Milwaukee power squeezer and I honestly like my hand one better. I feel that the hand one is more forgiving because you can continue to center things up. The
Milwaukee you pull the trigger and if your off a bit your river was pulled lop sided. I would say the jury is out on this one. Cannot say that I recommend others likely have a different opinion.

Dry fit hardware. Fine thread. Hardware store junk that you use to dry fit parts and save your good hardware. Easy to tell the difference between AN cad plated good hardware and zinc plated junk hardware.

Extra AN hardware, your going to order from spruce at some point throw some extra common hardware in there to have on hand if something needs replaced.

Torque stripe. Apply to hardware after it has been torqued to spec. A visual cue that nut is been torqued. Also serves as a safety because you know your nuts are tight during inspection and preflight

Tap and Die set great for chasing threads that are filled with powder coat. Once again you need the fine thread don't go get a crummy cheap see you will probably have to buy the taps you need later and they are always cheaper by the set.

EZ out (not something I would run out and buy) but every project is one broken bolt from hours of trouble.

Valve stem tool for putting tires on. I like the one that's t handle shaped with a short cable you can thread onto the valve stem.

Safety wire pliers / twister. Not 100% needed but saves a lot of headache. Get a decent set like milbar. The cheap sets have really aggressive teeth and the side cutters suck.

Plumb Bob for jury struts, finding centerline of the fuselage ect.

Squares - Speed square, carpenters square I typically use a small 12” although I have had my 24” out on more than one occasion.

Level Torpedo, 24” 48” side note I tried a digital level. I found that I could do just as good or better with a plain old bubble level. I also have a machinist level I borrowed from my cousin who is a tool and die maker.

Yard sticks (I bought about 20 on clearance) I used these to align ribs in the vertical stabilizer. Wish I would have known that trick working on my horizontal.

Layout Die (not an essential) I used it with a square to find center line on my control sticks prior to drilling. Used it extensively building my wings. It will give you a nice sharp contrast line and won't rub off like dry erase marker will. I have Dykem Layout Fluid.

Masking tape. Lots just go buy a 5 pack of blue for starts (Silver sharpie works great to write on this stuff with)

Clamps - a good variety. Spring clamps. C clamps, ect. I used c clamps and tie down straps to suspend my fuselage from the ceiling. I also store parts vertically in this manor, space is a premium as I am essentially working in a single car garage.

Scales 6”, 12”, yard sticks, tape measure. I like a see through ruler so I can see my project on the other side. Used to locate holes and such.

Center Punch - I have a manual spring one. You want to make sure your drill bit doesn't walk.

Scrap lumber to use as a backer when drilling sheet.

Respirator - something rated for organic solvents. Also works well to protect you from abundant dust from sanding.

Cable cutter (not essential, a dremel with cutting wheel will work. But a knioex cutter makes the job easy.

Dremel (must have)

Saw horses

Rolling stool

Lumber for rotisserie

Work platform to set fuselage on before gear is on.

Like I said this is definitely not a complete list.

Check out 7KiloFox on YouTube he has a video on this somewhere. He has pretty good YouTube content. When I started watching him I thought it sounded like him complaining a lot but every gripe he had was true on my plane as well and I learned to appreciate his content. There are several build video series.

Oh! Last and most important!!! Networking with the kitfox community. You can do that here or on team kitfox. The community is an awesome resource, they got me through some challenging parts of the build and were super helpful clarifying obscure directions in the manual.

Depending on who you get in touch with you will get answers like “I don't want to tell you how to build your airplane” or “I believe the instructions in the manual are clear on that” Well that's kinda the reason I bought a kit so I will have an expert to refer to or I think we'll if the directions are clear I wouldn't have this question. There is a 3rd standard answer but I can't think of it off hand. With that being said I have had much better luck with factory support lately they have been amazing.

Either way rather than email this will be a resource to the community.

If anyone else wants to supplement I welcome their advice.

[Jason Murphy]

Contacted Brandon at the factory regarding the left lower aft spar reinforcement. This required reaming to get it to fit. I later learned how I had supported the wing while fitting gave it a slight twist which was discovered after I had reamed the part.

Brandon advised that although it is tight and not moving currently it may shift under load and recommend replacement. I will order additional reinforcement brackets and use my last remaining set to replace this set.

This was a challenging task as I had to use heat on the bottom reinforcement bracket to get the Hysol to release and not heat the top bracket.

I started by drilling the heads off the stainless steel rivets. Leaving the shank in place.

I attempted to use a clothing iron and direct contact to the steel reinforcement bracket. This resulted in heat from the fabric iron warming the aluminum spar through convection and radiation. This was aborted.

Next I tried using a soldering iron and placed the tip into the shank of the rivets. The soldering iron was supposed to produce 900 degrees. This never warmed the bracket.

Brandon suggested creating a heat shield. And using a heat gun. This was attempted out of aluminum foil and was produced marginal results as the spar being aluminum conducted heat quickly.

I then came up with the solution. Using a clamp on fan I aimed the fan at the top bracket and set it to high. I also had my son take an electric air pump you use for air mattress and blow air from the tip end to the root end. This maximized air exchange and air cooling. The heat gun was then aimed at the lower outer reinforcement bracket. It was warmed using the heat gun. The spar temperature and upper bracket was monitored using an infrared thermometer. They never became warmer than 100 degrees Fahrenheit. This technique was successful as I was able to use my Knipex Pliers and easily break the bond between the Hysol and outside bracket.

The stems of the rivets were drilled out with a No. 40 drill to ensure the holes were not opened up. A no. 34 drill was then used to drill out the center of the stainless steel rivet stems ensuring the sides of the ricet were not drilled through.

The old Hysol was cleaned off and the same technique was used to release the inner spar reinforcement bracket. Heat was applied to the lower spar which heated the Hysol on the opposite side of the wall of the tubing. Knipex pliers were used to pull the reinforcement bracket up and a popsicle stick was used as a wedge which released the bond between the Hysol and the spar tube. The Hysol remained bonded to the inner reinforcement bracket and there was very little cleanup.

Spar tube is prepped for bonding and cleaned with alcohol.

I plan to accomplish this task during the next build session.

[Jason Murphy]

Weighed each propeller blade.

Weighed blades in order of serial number. Blade 1 weighed approximately 889 grams. Blade 2 weighed 887 grams. Blade 3 weighed a whopping 983 grams.

Contacted Joe who I purchased the prop from and asked if there was any reason there was nearly a 100 gram discrepancy. He advised he never weighed the blades he had the propeller dynamically balanced and that is the reason there was a bolt in the prop hub. Removed bolt and washers. It required a 9 gram weight to balance the prop.

Emailed Whirlwind and I am awaiting a response.