Kitfox Series 7 Super Sport - Show Me Fox

[Jason Murphy]

Attached is an email to someone interested in a list of tools that I found handy during the build. This is by no means a comprehensive list.

This isn't an inclusive list and it's what I have found helpful. I apologize about the delay but I wanted to meddle through my work area.

Angle Drill (I am using an Avery) incredible tool to get into tight places.

Numbered, lettered, fractional drill bit set (or bits that are just under the size of the reamer) use these to clean out powder coating so your reamer fits in. Recently I have used a letter N drill before reaming 5/16 holes

Drill bit stops. Must have! Prevents gouging critical parts when you break through.

Sheet metal seamer and snips. To “massage” or tweak the metal. Seamer spreads out the pressure and makes a more uniform bend.

1/8, 1/4, 3/8 NPT taps (don't go out and buy them

At least 100 1/8” clecos

Reloading Scale / Kitchen scale (something to
Measure in grams) to mix Hysol and Superfil with. I typically will
Mix batches of about 20 grams of Hysol at a time. I do a lot of mixing but I have wasted very little product.

20 mL slip tip (not leur-lok) syringes. Applying Hysol reuse until the plunger pulls out and toss when your done with them.

Popsicle sticks, lots! You will use 2 or 3 each time you mix hysol.

Supplemental lighting. Work Lights, “trouble” lights, as much light as you can get!

Storage / Organization options. I used ziplock bags and a plastic shoebox. I sorted the hardware according to type bolts, nuts, washers, ect and put the bags of parts into ziplock. So this ziplock bag contains all the bolts for this part of the project.

Needle files (get a decent set) use mine to debur where I have drilled fix an errant hole ect. I use these frequently. Highly recommend.

Sandpaper silicone carbide variety. I have up to 2500 grit but I also like my aluminum parts polished. (Flitz polish does a great job, you can also use it on plastic. I have not tried it on a windshield yet but they were doing it at Oshkosh.

Sanding blocks, a variety of sizes. I used a 1x2 that was about 2 ft long to help shape the end caps on my rudder and horizontal. Currently using a 1/4 sheet and 1/3 sheet polishing my main landing gear.


Superfil lightweight body filler not included in the kit. You can fix a lot of sins with Superfil and sandpaper.

Epoxy primer (not in the kit) and catalyst. Once again needed to cover bare metal and over SuperD that covers metal. Superfil over wood will be covered with epoxy varnish (included in the kit)

Micro stop countersink - 100 degree countersink used with flush rivets. Sure you can use a debur tool but you have zero control over the depth. Also countersink bits for the tool.

Debur tool (I have an Avery pretty happy with it.)

Going back to Clecos, side clamp clecos are amazing for clamping the edges of sheet metal. They have a small footprint and a firm grip what more can you ask for. A bit spendy at $5 each but the right tool for the job. I have 1” models.

Rivet squeezer (with dimple dies) you will eventually use solid rivets on the kit. A squeezer can be used in the solid rivets as well as dimpling sheet metal.

Dimple dies (comes with a squeezer) if you choose not to get a squeezer then ATS sells dimple dies you use in your hand rivet puller.

Hand rivet puller. I have a Marson super happy with it. I also bought a cheap sacrificial one that I don't care if I grind on (5 bucks at Walmart)

While we are on the topic of rivet guns… I bought a Milwaukee power squeezer and I honestly like my hand one better. I feel that the hand one is more forgiving because you can continue to center things up. The
Milwaukee you pull the trigger and if your off a bit your river was pulled lop sided. I would say the jury is out on this one. Cannot say that I recommend others likely have a different opinion.

Dry fit hardware. Fine thread. Hardware store junk that you use to dry fit parts and save your good hardware. Easy to tell the difference between AN cad plated good hardware and zinc plated junk hardware.

Extra AN hardware, your going to order from spruce at some point throw some extra common hardware in there to have on hand if something needs replaced.

Torque stripe. Apply to hardware after it has been torqued to spec. A visual cue that nut is been torqued. Also serves as a safety because you know your nuts are tight during inspection and preflight

Tap and Die set great for chasing threads that are filled with powder coat. Once again you need the fine thread don't go get a crummy cheap see you will probably have to buy the taps you need later and they are always cheaper by the set.

EZ out (not something I would run out and buy) but every project is one broken bolt from hours of trouble.

Valve stem tool for putting tires on. I like the one that's t handle shaped with a short cable you can thread onto the valve stem.

Safety wire pliers / twister. Not 100% needed but saves a lot of headache. Get a decent set like milbar. The cheap sets have really aggressive teeth and the side cutters suck.

Plumb Bob for jury struts, finding centerline of the fuselage ect.

Squares - Speed square, carpenters square I typically use a small 12” although I have had my 24” out on more than one occasion.

Level Torpedo, 24” 48” side note I tried a digital level. I found that I could do just as good or better with a plain old bubble level. I also have a machinist level I borrowed from my cousin who is a tool and die maker.

Yard sticks (I bought about 20 on clearance) I used these to align ribs in the vertical stabilizer. Wish I would have known that trick working on my horizontal.

Layout Die (not an essential) I used it with a square to find center line on my control sticks prior to drilling. Used it extensively building my wings. It will give you a nice sharp contrast line and won't rub off like dry erase marker will. I have Dykem Layout Fluid.

Masking tape. Lots just go buy a 5 pack of blue for starts (Silver sharpie works great to write on this stuff with)

Clamps - a good variety. Spring clamps. C clamps, ect. I used c clamps and tie down straps to suspend my fuselage from the ceiling. I also store parts vertically in this manor, space is a premium as I am essentially working in a single car garage.

Scales 6”, 12”, yard sticks, tape measure. I like a see through ruler so I can see my project on the other side. Used to locate holes and such.

Center Punch - I have a manual spring one. You want to make sure your drill bit doesn't walk.

Scrap lumber to use as a backer when drilling sheet.

Respirator - something rated for organic solvents. Also works well to protect you from abundant dust from sanding.

Cable cutter (not essential, a dremel with cutting wheel will work. But a knioex cutter makes the job easy.

Dremel (must have)

Saw horses

Rolling stool

Lumber for rotisserie

Work platform to set fuselage on before gear is on.

Like I said this is definitely not a complete list.

Check out 7KiloFox on YouTube he has a video on this somewhere. He has pretty good YouTube content. When I started watching him I thought it sounded like him complaining a lot but every gripe he had was true on my plane as well and I learned to appreciate his content. There are several build video series.

Oh! Last and most important!!! Networking with the kitfox community. You can do that here or on team kitfox. The community is an awesome resource, they got me through some challenging parts of the build and were super helpful clarifying obscure directions in the manual.

Depending on who you get in touch with you will get answers like “I don't want to tell you how to build your airplane” or “I believe the instructions in the manual are clear on that” Well that's kinda the reason I bought a kit so I will have an expert to refer to or I think we'll if the directions are clear I wouldn't have this question. There is a 3rd standard answer but I can't think of it off hand. With that being said I have had much better luck with factory support lately they have been amazing.

Either way rather than email this will be a resource to the community.

If anyone else wants to supplement I welcome their advice.

[PapuaPilot]

I didn't know that John. Typically props come assembled and have been static balanced, sometime the blades are removed for shipping, but they have specific locations in the hub.

I'm curious to hear how this turns out and what the pre-balancing "IPS number" is. I kinda understand the "moment arm" statement, but a 3.5 ounce (~11%) weight difference between blades is a lot. The only way I can see this working is if they adjust the moment arm using weight as far inboard as possible.

[Jason Murphy]

Prepped jury struts per manual. Attempted to fit jury strut n the right wing. Attempts were unsuccessful.

Started at the location recommended by the manual. Working with the rear strut first the lower bracket is moved up and down the lift strut. The aft portion of the jury strut is oriented vertically both inboard / outboard and fore and aft. The forward upward location is checked until oriented directly to the center of the forward spar tube and in alignment with the rear tube of the jury strut. This is made easy by the prefabricated upper bracket. The lower bracket is then fitted.

The lower forward bracket is where I started having trouble. When I attempted to fasten the lower forward portion of the jury strut to the lift strut. It would pull the whole assembly out of alignment. After several hours of frustration I gave up and emailed Kitfox for assistance. I feel that the forward lower clamp may not be up to specification, I await a reply to see if there is a better technique or additional solutions.

Enjoying my new found space I contacted the future owner and ask if I would be able to rent the space. He was open to the idea but his asking price was far beyond my budget. I plan to return the project back home after the jury struts have been fitted.

I do believe I omitted in a previous post that I have secured a propeller for the airplane. It has been previously owned, has about 800 hours of use. A purchase price was agreed upon by the seller and I. It will likely be shipped in a few weeks by the owner when he returns home.

Returned home to organize my workshop. Per information from kitfox I will not need the wing jig in the future for the build and there is no longer a reason to have them bonded to the floor. The jig was broke loose from the floor and stored away for use later if needed. Cleaned work area in preparation to bring fuselage and wings back home which will likely occur after the jury struts have been fitted.

Purchased sanding block from the local auto parts store to assist with polishing. I would like to revisit polishing my main gear seeking a more refined shine.

May attempt to clean the inside of the wing tanks tomorrow during down time at work.

[Jason Murphy]

Bond and Rivet Lift Strut Brackets on Right Wing. Of all the tasks to complete both required and self induced no matter how tedious this is my least favorite. I failed to mention it during a previous post. Used a piece of mason line to ensure holes which must be drilled are aligned with rivet line in the spar.

Continue polishing landing gear. They are beginning to come around. Minor distortions from not using a sanding block for initial polish are becoming less prominent.

[Hardwood]

“Had to remove cured hysol from trailing edge of wing.”

Jason, did you use chemicals to remove that Hysol or just sanded it? I have some areas on my horizontal stabilizer that needs cleanup I just haven’t gotten to that yet so I thought I should ask. I do believe the wings in my garage are hanging by the forward spar so I also need to look up what you mentioned in the wing manual. You are documenting everything quite well, thanks for the details.

[Jason Murphy]

Physically manipulated false ribs to work bends and warpage out.

Consulted with Brandon regarding Props, Upholstery, Rigging Wings, Locating and Rigging Flaperon.

Received replacement brackets for drag anti drag tubes.

Received hubcaps for wheels which will of course be polished to high luster.

Borrowed 0.3115 reamer for spar reinforcement braces from my cousin Gary.

[Jason Murphy]

Received replacement drag anti drag bracket

Locate and installed drag anti drag tube between ribs 7 and 9.

Using flaperon checked to ensure alignment of trailing edge of wing ribs and flaperon hinge slots. Located and bonded rib no 9.

Straighten false ribs, Located and placed top false ribs for bays 3, 4, 5, (Skip 6), 7, 8, and 9. Need to final bond with hysol and flox.

[Jason Murphy]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jason Murphy]

Called Whirlwind regarding the prop. They advised they do not balance the blades by weights they balance using moment arm. I shouldn’t have any problems with the prop. Call if I have a vibration after the prop is mounted.

Polish radius blocks. They were much more of a challenge because they have such a small surface area. My coworker unknowingly supplied the photo for this entry.

Thanks Carrie

[jrevens]

Called Whirlwind regarding the prop. They advised they do not balance the blades by weights they balance using moment arm. I shouldn’t have any problems with the prop. Call if I have a vibration after the prop is mounted.

Hi Jason,
I sure don’t want to give you any unnecessary concern, but I’m confused by Whirlwind’s reply. That seems to be a pretty considerable difference in weight, and I can’t understand how the blade set could possibly be in static balance based on moment arm unless there was a substantial variance in the density of the blade material throughout the length of the blades at corresponding distances, or a big variance in cross sectional shape (volume) between the blades at any particular station or distance from the hub. I wouldn’t think that would be the case. I’m just trying to understand… perhaps someone with a better understanding of this than I can penetrate my ignorance.