Series 7 Super Sport

[Jez]

Jez, I flipped your photos. I think it has to do with iPhone orientation during picture taking. Just a theory so far as have not experimented one way or the other yet. What kind of phone are you using Jez? Maybe it’s a Galaxy thing.

Yes, I flipped my phone horizontally and now they come out the correct orientation thanks

[Jez]

I thought I would share how I managed to get my rudder pedals moving without any resistance at all regardless of how much I torqued them. After screwing down the right side, and the centre aluminium blocks, the left side was hovering 7mm above the front wooden ply board. So I cut out the ply underneath the aluminium block and placed a 7mm aluminium block that I produced myself as a big shim so to speak. I then used hysol to stick this to the fusalage so that it could not move at all obviously when the original aluminium block was placed on top of this one. Hopefully my pics will do the talking.

[Hardwood]

Good pic of the description Jez, I’m hoping that mine are straight now! Did you cut your “shim” out of aluminum stock or have it machined for you?

Matt

[Jez]

Hi Matt, I cut it to size with my harbour freight band saw, and then took it to a machinist to get the 7mm height which was done on a milling machine I guess. I forgot to mention that I put a washer under each bolt in between the aluminium block that I made and the fusalage so as there would be no movement or guess work whilst the hysol went off in between. So make sure the aluminium block is undersized to allow it to be made up with the different thickness washers that we use throughout the build .

[Hardwood]

Hey Jez, well I am hoping that my pedals are straight as I’m not sure what access to a machinist I will have when it comes time to that. Thanks again for the explanation.

Matt

[Jez]

You can get the closest stock size and make the rest up with washers as long as it’s not too big a gap I guess, else you will using a lot of hysol in between

[Jez]

Another little torque problem I rectified on the break pedal by using a bolt with a cotter pin instead of using the nylon nut to torque to the impossible 25 inch pounds without it getting stiff. A little overkill, but at least the only restriction I get now will be from the brake cylinder itself when applying the breaks.

[Dave S]

Jez,

The Nylocks are easy and quick, however, Cotter pin fasteners have a lot of utility, as you found. Back when I was doing my build, I was very fortunate to have both EAA tech counselors and a Designated Airworthiness Rep (DAR in the US) who had for their day jobs repairing and signing off on modifications for heavy iron and everything in between. My DAR was an FAA inspector who new just about every trick and what works - he suggested I use Cotter pins on many of the applications - while they can sometimes take a little more time when a person has to select fit thin/thick washer to arrive at a correct torque, they can be used anywhere while the nylocks do have some limitations (related to heat or rotation). I guess if it is good enough for Boeing and the FAA, I figure it was ok for a kitfox!

[Jez]

Thanks Dave, that’s very reassuring. Hopefully it will help others also.

[Jez]

A few pics here to help others. I used tape on the wire before cutting with a dremel disc and then took it off and applied industrial super glue to the ends to stop fraying. The washers were a smidge to small for the bolt to go through on the adjustable rudder stick so this is how I enlarged them 8 thou more.