Nut plates, rivnuts or tinnerman. Decisions decisions, thanks guys
Ok, I have decided to go with rivnuts just because I have some already. Which type of metal do you guys recommend, aluminium, steel or stainless steel? I know there is such a thing about not being able to use certain metals with other metals due to corrosion and what not? Dissimilar metals that’s it.
I think this next topic is super duper important, it took me a whole day of stripping apart my aluminium block, nylon block bearing and control column to find out why after torquing to the proposed torque settings the fore and aft gets too stiff. Well first and foremost, the idea of using steel split pins inside the nylon bearings is a fantastic idea which I done, but there is something I found which disrupts the whole movement which was staring me right in the face and could not believe it when I found it, but it completely frees up the fore and aft movement. Ok, at the end of the control column where the bolt exits, there is a build up of powder coat. So all is required is too get a flat file and square it off. Because it being slightly built up causes the aluminium block to tilt when you tighten the nut up against the washer and that part of the column. A very easy fix, but hard to see when trying to figure out because its such a small amount to square off. The end which needs to be filed square is the size of the tip of your little finger. Trust me that this very small area and thing to do is 99% of why it gets stiff when tightening.
Good catch!
Jim Ott
Portland, OR
Kitfox SS7 flying
Rotax 912ULS
So onto the dreaded rudder pedal assembly. I too have banana T and wondering how I am going to get it straight. So my first attempt is to try and squash it ha ha
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I laid my pedals flat on my table top to make sure that they were square with one another. I have seen some people line up the tabs. Any error in alignment of the tabs can be corrected when the cables are swaged. If your really OCD over it turnbuckles can be installed where fine adjustments can be made after the fact.
Hello Jez, some appear portrait, others landscape. The same thing happens to me on here… I just turn my ipad!
That is a good looking drill press in the picture.
The way you drilled out the detent pin for the rudder handle is the same way I did mine, minus the 45 degree pin holder. I have one now though! My only question at the moment of drilling was, if there is a hole that my drill bit already fits through with my fingers, why am I drilling it again? I questioned myself further when upon extraction of the spinning bit, it bound and sheared off cause me further troubles.
Looking good thus far, I’m going to keep looking.
Matt Koeniguer building the KingFox
https://www.youtube.com/@KingFox76
KitFox Model 7STi
Monster Shocks - 29” Alaskan Bushwheels & TW
Engine - Wanted Rotax, now considering the Viking 150
Propeller - MT, now probably a DUC for the Viking
Stits Poly Fiber
Jez, I flipped your photos. I think it has to do with iPhone orientation during picture taking. Just a theory so far as have not experimented one way or the other yet. What kind of phone are you using Jez? Maybe it’s a Galaxy thing.
DesertFox4
Admin.
7 Super Sport912 ULS Tri-gear
So squashing the rudder t bar did not work surprisingly ha . Never mind, decided to give the torque tube a good sanding out with a steel bar wrapped in sandpaper. It worked a treat, but as you know it will not be enough to make up for the slight bend. So I will put shims under that side to make it up. God knows how some of you builders get away with using a standard drill for putting holes into metal, it’s the last resort for me. So I use my pillar drill whenever I can, so much easier.
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Last edited by Jez; 09-07-2022 at 08:52 PM.