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Thread: Circuit Breakers Source

  1. #1
    Senior Member Maverick's Avatar
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    Default Circuit Breakers Source

    I am going to re-do my panel. When I built my first KF5, I put the fuse buss behind the panel because the cowling for it was two-piece and when taking the bonnet off the back of the firewall was exposed. Easy to change a fuse but with this build I bought the S7 cowling and not thinking this thru I did what I did the first time around. Now, changing a fuse is not so easy with the boot cowling so, now that I've admitted my stupidity, I have acquired a new panel blank and will install circuit breakers. My question is has anyone found a good source for circuit breakers besides the obvious AS&S. I have been looking and I've wondered if there were alternatives available besides aviation versions. Amazon has multiple different automotive versions and I'm wondering about those. Any thoughts?
    Fred
    EAA, AOPA
    KF5 (N49FK & N36KJ)
    Phoenix, AZ

  2. #2
    Administrator DesertFox4's Avatar
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    Default Re: Circuit Breakers Source

    Fred, SteinAir is where I purchase almost all of my aircraft electrical needs from wire, coax, connectors, circuit breakers, heat shrink tubing and my latest purchase, a Garmin GTR-200B comm radio. They’ve also made custom wire harnesses for me and they were perfect. Service is great and they ship quickly. Same day many times. Stein himself usually answers the phone.👍

    https://www.steinair.com/product-cat...it-protection/


    DesertFox4
    Admin.
    7 Super Sport
    912 ULS Tri-gear


  3. #3
    Senior Member Dave S's Avatar
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    Default Re: Circuit Breakers Source

    Fred,

    I second DF4's recommendation for Stein air. Excellent service, they know what they are doing and have a solid background and a tremendous interest in experimental aviation. They have been my go to guys for encoder calibration also.

    As to adapting auto fuses to aviation use - maybe some have been done with success; however, I have seen a few more corrosion issues/high resistance connections with auto fuse holders and adaptations than I would care get involved with. Just my opinion.
    Dave S
    Kitfox 7 Trigear (Flying since 2009)
    912ULS Warp Drive

    St Paul, MN

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    Default Re: Circuit Breakers Source

    It depends a bit on what kind of breakers you're after. If you want the kind that can be pulled to open the circuit (like the Tyco W23 or one of the various Klixons), you're pretty much stuck at $20/ea., minimum.

    If you're happy with a fuse-replacement style breaker that is only push-to-reset, there are other options that are much cheaper:

    - Tyco W54: 5A - 30A, $4 - $6 ea.

    - Tyco W57: 5A - 20A, $3 - $6 ea.

    - Tyco W58: 1A - 30A, $7 - $11 ea.

    If you have the space and want a snap-in mounting style with a bezel:

    - Tyco W28: 250mA - 20A, $5 - $10 ea.

    Whatever you choose, look at the time-vs-current trip curves in the datasheet to be sure they're in the same ballpark as typical "aviation" CBs like the Tyco W23 and the Klixons (hint: they're virtually identical).

    In all cases, watch part numbers carefully to be sure you're getting the type of plunger markings, mounting bushing, hardware and terminals you want (don't rely on the photos).
    Eric Page
    Building Kitfox 5 Safari
    Member: EAA, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: MEL / Comm: SEL, Glider / ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

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    Default Re: Circuit Breakers Source


  6. #6
    Senior Member Delta Whisky's Avatar
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    Default Re: Circuit Breakers Source

    Why leave behind your prior approach? Considerations of required panel area, cost, terminations, weight, simplicity, etc. made me go with a fuse panel. Not my original idea, saw something similar in a RV-12. I use lighted fuses that light up when they blow. Just thinking out loud.Attachment 27899

  7. #7
    Senior Member Maverick's Avatar
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    Default Re: Circuit Breakers Source

    I looked thru all 32 pages of the Show Us Your Panel message string. I saw yours, DW, and one on page 20 by mr bill. I probably would stay with fuses if I could find a way to make it look nice. You and mr. bill both appear to have done so but, I haven't found buss bars that are conducive to pleasing aesthetics. If you know of a supplier that would have something that would work and look clean, I'd appreciate the info.
    EAA, AOPA
    KF5 (N49FK & N36KJ)
    Phoenix, AZ

  8. #8
    Senior Member Delta Whisky's Avatar
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    Default Re: Circuit Breakers Source

    Maverick - mine is an Eaton Bussman 15305-1-6-0. I checked where I bought mine and they have similar items but not that part number. My search engine found them at a variety of sources though.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Maverick's Avatar
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    Default Re: Circuit Breakers Source

    Weytech wanted $21 just for the shipping and required a $50 minimum purchase. Found one on Ebay for $30 and free shipping. I think with this I can keep my original panel. I'll just have to remove it to cut the hole and make the connections. I wonder about the spacers you mentioned. It looks like the perimeter wall would make a nice outline that would protrude through the panel about a 1/4 of an inch. You know of a downside to this?

    Also, where did you come up with fuses that light up when they fail. I just assumed the indicator light on the fuse block for that circuit would go out with a blown fuse.
    EAA, AOPA
    KF5 (N49FK & N36KJ)
    Phoenix, AZ

  10. #10
    Senior Member Delta Whisky's Avatar
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    Default Re: Circuit Breakers Source

    Maverick - First - I forgot to get the promised picture of the back of the fuseblock today. Maybe my memory will work better tomorrow. (If an excuse is needed, I found a couple of issues that need to be addressed on the plane today and I spent "thinking" time on them and not "remembering" time for you.)

    Littlefuse makes the smart glow fuses. More at: https://www.littelfuse.com/products/...mart-glow.aspx

    Quite possibly the perimeter wall has a feature that limits protrusion thru the panel at a quarter of an inch. To be honest, I don't remember that detail but if it does, no downside. If it doesn't, the "spacers" I used were pieces of aluminum tubing I cut to the length that held the base of the fuse block back from the panel so the perimeter wall was flush with the panel. Screws go thru the panel, the spacers and into brass inserts in the fuse block - you don't have to fight the dreaded dropped nut install process.

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