Geek's STi Build

[Geek]

Thank you!! Really appreciate the 'real world' input. I will be folding my wings pretty regular since there are literally no hangars to be had around here and the waiting list is long. If I were to go the hard line route, was thinking of using stainless line instead of the aluminum that's in the kit. The aluminum would have bent really easy and the stainless would have held it's shape better. Stainless is a bear to bend (did that in my car rebuilding days) but the bends would not have been too bad. Also thinking I might add some shut off valves up there just to keep from having the 'auto wing fuel transfer' that some have experienced when parking on an incline which would give me a place to disconnect the line but do I want to do that every time? Not inclined that way.

Thanks again for weighing in. Can't beat experience.

Gary

[Geek]

Have been working on some painting before the weather turns cold but have been somewhat hampered by smoke from our fires up here in the PNW. The smoke is getting old and since I don't have a paint booth - the particulate in the smoke likes to stick to the wet paint. Luckily most of what I am doing is primer right now so it gets sanded. I also went back and looked at how I might possibly do the brake lines differently since I wasn't really happy with the way my original attempt turned out. The two big changes this time were routing three of the lines through the holes in the rudder pedal assembly mounts (think maybe that's what Brandon put them in there for to start with) and putting loops in three of the lines to let them flex better with full deflection of the pedals. Much happier with the way they work now and keeping them away from moving parts.

I also started laying out my panel and saved the pic here as a large so that if you open it, it's easier to see (I hope). Reason being I am soliciting any inputs from anyone on it. Looking for mistakes you might see or anywhere there might be an improvement. Haven't started cutting anything yet. Wanted to ponder this design a bit and see if there isn't something I might like better after thinking about it. Thanks ahead of time on this.

Gary

Brake Lines 3.JPGLarge Panel.jpg

[alexM]

Looks great (cool switch guards). I suggest you put the panel in the plane and check for physical reach. I even printed 1:1 color images and taped them in place. I'm sure it will work exactly as is but it gives you an excuse to sit in the plane and make airplane noises.

And yes, the holes in the brackets are to route hoses.

[rv9ralph]

Gary,

Just a note on the brake lines... with loops (high spots) there is a possibility of an air bubble getting trapped, making bleeding of the brakes difficult.

Also, I can't remember, but are you installing an iS engine? If so, I didn't see the start button (couldn't read the labels). With the Rotax iS engines, there is a momentary power switch to energize the lanes before pushing the start button. I tried enlarging the image but the labels were still not readable.

[Geek]

........but it gives you an excuse to sit in the plane and make airplane noises.......

Thanks Alex but I need no excuse. This has become a regular occurrence every happy hour!!! I actually bought full size stick-ons of the Garmin stuff and did a 'function check' of the positions.

Gary,

Just a note on the brake lines... with loops (high spots) there is a possibility of an air bubble getting trapped, making bleeding of the brakes difficult.

Also, I can't remember, but are you installing an iS engine? If so, I didn't see the start button (couldn't read the labels). With the Rotax iS engines, there is a momentary power switch to energize the lanes before pushing the start button. I tried enlarging the image but the labels were still not readable.

Good comment Chief. Glad to hear from the Goat Locker!!! I have a pressure bleeder that I plan on using which should help with that issue but also plan to reach in and pull the loops down level (vice vertical) while I'm bleeding brakes to alleviate that air bubble thing. Thank God for having put brake systems in cars I was restoring (which is why I have a pressure bleeder. --Once you use one you will never go back to the old pump and hold method). You remember correctly on the iS motor and the start button is on the panel. Sorry you couldn't read my chicken scratch. It's in the traditional spot just below the left vent.

Thanks to both of you for taking look and the feedback.

Gary

[rv9ralph]

You remember correctly on the iS motor and the start button is on the panel.

Do you have the start button and the momentary power switch set up for one handed use? I have an ergonomic placement in mind. I did a short demo video of it. (I haven't uploaded it yet so I can't post it). If there is any interest in a one handed arrangement for the start sequence I can set it up for posting.

[Geek]

Do you have the start button and the momentary power switch set up for one handed use? I have an ergonomic placement in mind. I did a short demo video of it. (I haven't uploaded it yet so I can't post it). If there is any interest in a one handed arrangement for the start sequence I can set it up for posting.

I laid out the standard Kitfox configuration with the momentary switch horizontally mounted by the throttle so my right hand is on the throttle and my right thumb can hold the start power switch during a start sequence. I don't see that as a big deal and like the idea of having my hand on the throttle during a start but am intrigued by the one handed approach. I could ask a bunch of questions on how you would go about that (like - combined the momentary start and start power switches into one?) but would be interested in seeing the video on your idea. Just cause I like it doesn't mean there might be another way and it sounds like you've been thinking outside the box which is awesome.

Gary

[rv9ralph]

...but would be interested in seeing the video...

Gary,
Here is a link to the short video. I have been trying to get to view correctly, hopefully the link works.

https://youtube.com/shorts/bU1BvgZC8W4?feature=share

[Geek]

Gary,
Here is a link to the short video. I have been trying to get to view correctly, hopefully the link works.

https://youtube.com/shorts/bU1BvgZC8W4?feature=share

Worked great Ralph. Now I have MORE to think about. I am thinking the ON portion of the switch you have could be the Battery Back Up so this is really just moving the switch from next to the throttle to under the start switch? Certainly looks like an option. Thanks for posting the video.

Gary

[Geek]

Installed the ELT antenna on the mounting tab that Kifox has on the airframe. Used the coax cable that is supplied by the manufacturer which is a requirement from them to insure proper operation of the ELT. Started cutting out the panel and took it very slow to get the openings correct. Completed that and installed the panel (temporarily) in the fuselage. I installed the Garmin panel, the G5 attitude indicator (my back up if the main panel fails), the autopilot and the radio to get an assessment of where I might want to put the other Garmin G3 system boxes once I start wiring. While the radio sticks back from the panel a bit, the autopilot and the G5 don't so there is quite a bit of space there. Decided to add in a shelf behind the autopilot that will hold my engine monitor which is also a short box. Plenty of room for the autopilot electrical connectors and makes the wiring that comes from the engine to the monitor also very easy to access and wire. The shelf structure also provides a support brace for the rear end of the radio mounting rack. Not quite done with the shelf yet so that's still a work in progress. I also modified my baggage sack with two zippers on the back which will allow me to access the transponder and autopilot servo that are mounted back behind the baggage area. Once I get this shelf done, I am planning on installing the baggage sack and floor.

ELT Ant 1.JPGPanel Cut 2.JPGPanel 2.JPGPanel 4.JPGPanel Rear 3.JPG