Geek's STi Build

[PapuaPilot]

One thing you can do to loosen the nutplates is to run an appropriate sized hex head bolt or allen head screw in and out of the nutplates a couple time using a cordless drill. After doing this the philips head screws should go in easier.

[Geek]

Thanks Phil. All these are good checks before I do the install so I don't have to fight it later. The only suggestion I've gotten so far that I discounted was "just run an 8-32 tap through it". Just what I didn't want to do - cut the threads wide open and watch the screws fall out after a while due to vibration. I mean hey..... no vibration out there at the wing tip. Right?

G

[Kitfox Pilot]

What is the black screw driver looking think in this pic?

[bumsteer]

Harlan

Pretty sure it's a style of de-burrer.

Rick

[Geek]

What is the black screw driver looking think in this pic?

Harlan - It's a deburring tool. Can't believe you built the nice airplane you did without one.

DEburring.jpg

[Kitfox Pilot]

I used a de-burrer but it didn't look like that. I just couldn't figure it out from the handle end.

[alexM]

I'm trying to figure out that handle geometry too. I have a similar debur tool but it has a simple Z shaped crank handle.

[Geek]

Glad to hear you had something similar Harlan. I would hate to think you were doing it the hard way.

The handle is the same theory as the Z handle I think. It's probably an older design. In my former life I worked for the Navy with a R&D group and got to work with a lot of guys who built stuff for aircraft that were a lot smarter than me. I got my version many moons ago along with my nut plate drill guides and stuff like that after watching and helping them build that stuff. I used screwdrivers later in life that had the Z type crank when I worked as a "hey boy" for an electrician while going to college. I think the older design like mine is easier to spin the countersink in the hole and keep it centered but that's probably a personal preference on my part.

[Geek]

Started installing the pitot tube into the left wing. I am installing the Garmin heated version of the pitot tube so it's a bit more than just the tubing lines. My goal was to install the pitot tube so I can remove it from the outside without taking the wing apart should it require maintenance. There will be an access port at the lower wing that will allow me to disconnect the tubing from the pitot tube itself as well as disconnect/remove the heater controller. With the bends I put in the hard line tubes I am able to remove the pitot tube from the mast without issue and still meet the Garmin requirement to keep the tubing as long as possible. After getting the bends dialed in I needed to support the tubes a bit so they just didn't vibrate in free space. I added a support to hold the tubing. I put a clear piece of tubing around the aluminum tubing and then made a clip that holds the aluminum tubing against the support. That clip screws into a nut plate to make it easier to remove/install through that wing access point. Got it all installed but not permanently since there is plenty left to do on the wing itself.

I also added a spacer to my magnetometer mounting plate to support the electrical connector. It uses a standard DB9 connector but in my install, this is the end of my CANBUS so it also has a termination in there making the overall connector pretty long. The spacer will support the connector and the termination.

Pitot System 1.jpgPitot System 3.jpgPitot System 4.jpgPitot System 5.jpgPitot System 7.jpgPitot System 9.jpgPitot System 10.jpgMagnetometer Connector Support 1.jpgMagnetometer Connector Support 2.jpg

[rv9ralph]

Geek,

In your picture it appears that the magnetometer is mounted in the wing above/near your heated pitot. Do you think the heating element of the pitot will affect your magnetometer?

One way to check is to energize the heated pitot while holding a compass near it. If the compass moves it will affect the magnetometer.

Just a thought to consider before closing the wing.

Ralph