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Thread: Geek's STi Build

  1. #161
    Senior Member
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    Having read the instructions for mounting the doors to the fuselage, I decided I didn't like the fact that I was doing it using the real bubble glass for the doors. Mess it up and that's a bunch of money to replace that glass. So I had a bunch of the glass left as a result of fitting the windows to the door frames earlier on so I made a piece that I could substitute for the real thing. I added a small piece of the tape that goes between the door frame and the window as well as a piece of the gasket material that goes between the window and the fuselage frame. I still had the door frame set into the fuselage in the same position that I had it in when I did the window fitting so I clamped my fake window on to the door frame and fuselage and also clamped a couple pieces of wood to make sure the door didn't move in or out of its frame. Part of the instructions that I didn't give myself a solid chance of getting right was to drill the hole for the hinge into the door frame and make it as centered in the door frame as possible. So early on I had marked on the door frame where the hinge was going to locate, centered between those marks on the door frame where the hole should be and drilled it on a drill press before I set the door into the frame to do the original fitting of the window. That hole was straight and in the center of the door frame as it was supposed to be. Added a couple more clamps that held the hinge in place. I was able to drill the lower hinge hole from the back side through the all ready drilled hole in the door frame, through my glass spacer and through the hinge. I installed a screw and nut through that hole that was just like it would be when the window was installed and then drilled the two holes up through the butt rib flange. Kind of the opposite order the instructions called for. But the bottom line is that the door opens perfectly and is still aligned with the frame as it was when I did the glass fitting. Now all I need is to drill the through the window for the hinge when I do the final mount the window on to the door frame. I also started the fitting of the close out between the butt rib and the fuselage. Got both sides fitted and in paint but won't do the final install until I am ready to do the final install on the butt rib itself since the close out gets riveted to the lower cap strip of the butt rib.


    R Door 1.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Gary (Geek) Phenning
    Leavenworth (Not the Prison), WA
    Kitfox STi N68SG

  2. #162
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    As Harlan pointed out, there isn't really a plan for closing out the horizontal stab where the brace attaches and I agree with Harlan - don't want any of those mud dobbers in my plane!! I fabricated a close out using one from the Kitfox 5 as a model. Picture "HS Close Out 9" (last pic of the group) pretty much reflects how the Kitfox 5 close out would look. I added one more attachment point than the original just to hold the cover just a bit better (third pic from the last). Also fabricated the actual cover but did not cut the hole for the brace yet as the horizontal stab moves from trimming and I have not assessed how much movement will occur at the brace points. I also covered the side panels for the center console with the same material as I used on the console and am happy with the look.

    HS Close Out 1 .jpgCtr Con Side 1.jpgHS Close Out 12.jpgHS Close Out 11.jpgHS Close Out 10.jpgHS Close Out 9.jpg
    Gary (Geek) Phenning
    Leavenworth (Not the Prison), WA
    Kitfox STi N68SG

  3. #163
    Senior Member Kitfox Pilot's Avatar
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    Spring Garden Illinois
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    You will be glad you did that. The brace moves more than I thought it would. I am going to attach a flexable foam to the rod to finish filling the hole. The foam piece will just slide ontop of the small inspection door with no chance of binding. Yours is looking good!

    Your console is very nice also.
    Harlan and Susan Payne
    Sold Piper Archer
    Flying FarmFox STI Kitfox N61HP
    Rotax 915is, Airmaster prop
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5A...oCVUP15G0uB-Yw

  4. #164
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    Thanks Harlan. This whole close out thing was one of those wiggly little thoughts in the back of my tiny mind but admittedly it was your post on it that made me really think about it and doing something. So thanks twice!!

    G
    Gary (Geek) Phenning
    Leavenworth (Not the Prison), WA
    Kitfox STi N68SG

  5. #165
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Portland, OR
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    FWIW, here's how I did the horizontal stab brace closeout: I just did like the manual says and glued in the aluminum reinforcing plate to the fabric, but only cut a small hole in the fabric for the brace. After it was all assembled and I could see how much movement was involved, I then enlarged the fabric cutout to just accommodate that much movement. No separate cover plate needed. I can see enough of the brace attachment thru the small hole to be able to inspect. If I ever need to, I can further enlarge the cutout. Simple.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  6. #166
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    Quote Originally Posted by jiott View Post
    FWIW, here's how I did the horizontal stab brace closeout: I just did like the manual says and glued in the aluminum reinforcing plate to the fabric, but only cut a small hole in the fabric for the brace. After it was all assembled and I could see how much movement was involved, I then enlarged the fabric cutout to just accommodate that much movement. No separate cover plate needed. I can see enough of the brace attachment thru the small hole to be able to inspect. If I ever need to, I can further enlarge the cutout. Simple.
    Yup that was another option but I kept asking myself........Will it stop a mud dobber?

    Just funnin'. Certain it works and still gets you access for the inspection.

    G
    Gary (Geek) Phenning
    Leavenworth (Not the Prison), WA
    Kitfox STi N68SG

  7. #167
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    Whether you use my method or your separate cover plate, the opening for the moving brace will have to be nearly identical, so mud dauber access is the same either way.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  8. #168
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    Installed the baggage sack and baggage area floor boards. The floor boards are set into rivnuts which made getting it located and attached really easy. The plan is for my son (who sews climbing accessories and such) to install a zipper in the back section so later on I can easily access the back of the plane during inspections and such. I also installed the horizontal stab and elevator so that I could insure that my VHF antenna was clear of all the moving parts and start running the antenna cable. It also allowed me to figure out how I wanted to run my trim wiring from the motor towards the front of the plane. Got both to a point where I can now look how I want to run the wires along with some other items that I am installing (autopilot servos, transponder, trim booster and such). Where I spot tied the cables to the frame, I wrapped the frame at that point with silicone tape. Started working on the roll trim servo install by fabricating the bracket and getting the aluminum parts primed.


    Baggage 5.jpgBaggage 1.jpgVHF Ant 1.jpgVHF Ant 5.jpgTrim Wire 1.jpgTrim Wire 2.jpg
    Gary (Geek) Phenning
    Leavenworth (Not the Prison), WA
    Kitfox STi N68SG

  9. #169
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    I fit and installed the autopilot control servo brackets on to the fuselage frame. Installed the servo on each bracket and located the assembly on the frame so that the connection rod for the servo to the controls was at a right angle to its connection at the control link. Pushes and pulls nice and straight on. John McBean had posted earlier on how the servo arm pass through hole in the bracket for the pitch servo might be a bit tight due to the powder coating and could possibly bind up the servo arm. I made sure to open that hole up a bit and verified that the servo arm was free and clear with the servo mounted fully to the bracket. Hysol'd and riveted the roll bracket. Hysol'd and used the hose clamps to install the pitch bracket on to the frame. Just for a bit of extra securing, I safety wired the hose clamps to preclude them loosening up later on from vibration.

    Trim 10.jpgTrim 9.jpgTrim 6.jpgTrim 7.jpgTrim 2.jpgTrim 8.jpgTrim 4.jpgTrim 3.jpg
    Gary (Geek) Phenning
    Leavenworth (Not the Prison), WA
    Kitfox STi N68SG

  10. #170
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    Started some work on the tail access covers by making the small brackets and riveting them in place on the covers. Shot them with a coat of 2K primer and will start fitting them to the fuselage here soon. My mounts for the trim servos all cured so I installed the servos themselves and connected them up to the flight controls. Also started wiring them in slowly. Since the pitch servo is farthest back I started there. I am using the Garmin G3X which has the auto trim function but with the electrical current needed to run the trim motor, needed to install a TCW Trim Boost into the system. Decided to build a rear mounting tray for some of the electronics like the Trim Boost and the transponder (the IFF antenna is farther forward on the starboard side away from the roll servo so hopefully won't have any electrical interference). Got the tray bent up so the next steps will be to install it on to the fuselage and start mounting components.

    Tail Access Cover 1.jpgTail Access Cover 2.jpgTail Access Cover 3.jpgTrim Servo Install 1.jpgTrim Servo Install 5.jpgTrim Servo Install 6.jpgTrim Servo Install 8.jpgTrim Servo Install 10.jpgRear Mount Rack 1.jpgRear Mount Rack 3.jpg
    Gary (Geek) Phenning
    Leavenworth (Not the Prison), WA
    Kitfox STi N68SG

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