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Thread: Geek's STi Build

  1. #121
    Senior Member Eric Page's Avatar
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    Quote Originally Posted by Geek View Post
    I chose to use flat head vice pop rivets to attach the bracket because my current plan is to cover the console and didn't want the heads of the pop rivets to show up under the covering.
    FYI, and for anyone viewing this later, there are flush head pop rivets available. See the part number guide below the ordering table. Any part number with "C" as the third character is a flush head rivet.
    Eric Page
    Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
    Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

  2. #122
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Page View Post
    FYI, and for anyone viewing this later, there are flush head pop rivets available. See the part number guide below the ordering table. Any part number with "C" as the third character is a flush head rivet.
    You are correct Eric. I probably should have been more specific in that if I powder coat, paint or something along the line vinyl covering, the holes on the top of the rivet will show. That's what I was trying to get away from.

    G
    Gary (Geek) Phenning
    Leavenworth (Not the Prison), WA
    Kitfox STi N68SG

  3. #123
    Senior Member Eric Page's Avatar
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    Ah, OK, gotcha. I was picturing a carpet type cover in my head...
    Eric Page
    Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
    Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

  4. #124
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    Have been working but a little slack on the documenting....... Finished multiple coats of poly on the floorboards and got them installed. I put a piece of aluminum sheet on the floor boards where my heels will hit. In my whole life I think I have only flown one plane that didn't have major wear marks from the pilot's heels and that plane I got to pick up from the factory. Moved ahead with the rudder pedal install and was moving right along until I got to fabricating the clip that goes over the wheel on the pedals. Not sure what the deal was with me but I think those were the UGLIEST clips ever made by man. There was no way I was going to install them. They were either too high or too wide at the top. So I went to the Kitfox Help Line (Debra, Heather and Nicky) and ordered another set of the stainless steel sheet to do it again. While I was waiting for the new stock, I decided to build a jig to help make these clips. Took a piece of plywood and cut two grooves the same width and depth as the stainless steel stock. Glued another piece of wood over the top of the grooves so that the stock would slide in. Measured and drilled where the holes in the clips should be when the clip was installed in the jig. I got the stainless from Kitfox today and made all four clips using the jig and am really happy with the fit and finish when installed on the rudder peddle brackets. Also installed the rudder pedal adjustment levers.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Gary (Geek) Phenning
    Leavenworth (Not the Prison), WA
    Kitfox STi N68SG

  5. #125

    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    Quote Originally Posted by Geek View Post
    ...fabricating the clip that goes over the wheel on the pedals. Not sure what the deal was with me but I think those were the UGLIEST clips ever made by man. There was no way I was going to install them...
    Nice going on the clip jig! I clamped mine between two 2x4's with an offset, drilled them in pairs, and lucked out with 2 good ones and 2 wound around the drill press bit! Somehow lucked out when the replacement metal came and got the other 2 pretty good.
    Greg Anderson
    7SS in "production" : https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=ganderson
    Richland, WA

  6. #126
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    Floorboards are in so it was time to install the rudder pedals. Got the position dialed in on the fuselage by centering the center pivot/bearing and then working on the ends where I found the least resistance to the pedal movement. Clamped that down and then checked the overall assembly to see if it was straight across or a bit cattywompus (technical term). Turns out it was fine - maybe a 1/16" out of line which I attributed to the bearings on the center and end brackets. Drilled the holes for the end brackets and then clamped in the forward floorboard and match drilled it up from the bottom. Temporarily installed the pedal assembly and then shimmed using 3/4" dia fender washers under the brackets to improve the pedal movement. The right side took no shims, the center took 1 shim and the left took 3. Finalized installing the bearing brackets and then located and installed the two brackets for the master brake cylinders using a 1/8" drill to get the proper separation between the bracket and the rudder tubes. Ended up with some very smooth rudder pedals which is great. Lots of putting in and taking out of the assembly to get it dialed in.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Gary (Geek) Phenning
    Leavenworth (Not the Prison), WA
    Kitfox STi N68SG

  7. #127
    Senior Member Eric Page's Avatar
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    Congratulations, sir! You've just completed one of the most tedious and frustrating tasks in the build.
    Eric Page
    Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
    Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

  8. #128
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    Thanks Eric. Found that the best way to get it done is when it's snowing outside. My only real interruption was having to go out and plow the driveway. But Mr. John Deere and I made short work of that and it was back to the shop!

    G
    Gary (Geek) Phenning
    Leavenworth (Not the Prison), WA
    Kitfox STi N68SG

  9. #129
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    Got the top of the console cleaned up and painted. Really like the clean look of the solid rivets over the pop rivets. Installed the sides to the console but used rivet nuts along the top rather than the sheet metal screws. Seemed to work out just right. Once I had that in, I started on installing the rudder cables using the nicopress swedges which was a new experience for me. Never done that. The cable install itself went well. Used two different colors of shrink tubing so I can tell quickly which cable I have hold of (red-port/black-stbd) (didn't have green tubing for the stbd). Installed the cotter pins around the pulleys to preclude derailing of the cable as well.

    Center Console 13.jpgCenter Console 14.jpgCenter Console 18.jpgRudder Cables 7.jpgRudder Cables 8.jpgRudder Cables 9.jpgRudder Cables 10.jpgRudder Cables 11.jpg
    Gary (Geek) Phenning
    Leavenworth (Not the Prison), WA
    Kitfox STi N68SG

  10. #130
    Senior Member Kitfox Pilot's Avatar
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    Default Re: Geek's STi Build

    Everything is looking really good Gary especially that cable work!
    Harlan and Susan Payne
    Sold Piper Archer
    Flying FarmFox STI Kitfox N61HP
    Rotax 915is, Airmaster prop
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5A...oCVUP15G0uB-Yw

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