Doug
Super Sport
912ULS
Constant Speed IVOProp
I think I tried that one time without success. I'm pretty sure John Holmes also warned me that it would not work.
Once I was able to use cheap armatures, it was unnecessary.
Correction: I tried soldering but not with the epoxy, so I don't have any experience with the combo.
Last edited by dginok; 04-26-2021 at 10:55 AM. Reason: Correction
Doug
Super Sport
912ULS
Constant Speed IVOProp
I used the super lube and really like that lube. anyway, I just took my new motor that started skipping and soldered the connections, went real well and than put some hysol like you did, got it drying. will try the motor in a couple days. thanks for the heads up.
steve
slyfox
model IV 1200-flying
912uls
IVO medium in-flight
RV7A-flying
IO-360
constant speed prop
when I soldered I just went over the connections which are crimped. the solder did flow real nice inside. I do want to say again that the motor worked better than ever after just cleaning out the old grease and putting in the super lube grease(synthetic) I truly believe that the old grease was putting quit a strain on the motor and that I feel could be putting extra pull on the motor causing connection problems(wire burn out), just my opinion, doesn't hurt to try everything. also when I put the glue on, I covered the connection points as well for the wires.
Last edited by Slyfox; 04-26-2021 at 11:43 AM.
steve
slyfox
model IV 1200-flying
912uls
IVO medium in-flight
RV7A-flying
IO-360
constant speed prop
I appreciate your input and thank you! I thought I was alone on this.
I might have led myself down the wrong path but I determined it was heat and too many amps. I tried a resistor as well as a lowering the voltage to 7.2 - 8.4 vdc. What do those two voltages remind you of? I opened the housing and found myself reminiscing of my days building RC cars. I was surprised to see a familiar motor. Impressively simple which I’m a huge fan of.
I had issues with the armature showing an open. After replacing three motors and fixing 2 of them I had enough and went back to the ground adjustable. Each time IVO would send me another RC motor the same thing would happen after 10-20 hours. I started pulling the motors apart and found they measured wide open between the armature pads in all combinations, I narrowed it down to the connection between the winding and the tab of the contact pad. I only once found that it was a broken wire, in my case it was the solder that would become detached from the copper wire and leave black soot around the wire, through the solder under the tab and out the other side. (Like a cold solder joint with black soot) I inspected this with a microscope and it looked like it was literally burned open. I heated the solder and bent the tab up out of the way, then carefully cleaned the copper wire to get the soot off it. Next I measured from tail end to end and the entire winding loop was good. Next a little flux and bent the tabs back down over the wire and soldered it good. I now measured around 1.9 ohms between the pads. After using the motor for a few more hours it would quit again. Upon a second inspection I found the exact same thing. It was like the solder wasn’t attached to the wire anymore. Maybe vibration did this? Not sure exactly but I’ve never in my life seen solder break away from copper while it’s encased in it. (Other than maybe a cold solder joint). Maybe that’s what’s happening as well, again I’m not sure. This same failure happened on three motors and again on both of the motors I fixed. One of the motors I fixed however, on one of the tabs, did show a break in the wire right where the wire meets the solder. I believe that break was due to me removing the goop they had to steady the wire from vibration and centrifugal force, so I could work with it.
Finally I went with a whirlwind and parked the IVO for a while. I called IVO and explained the situation and asked what the solution is. They seemed to NOW acknowledge that I wasn’t the only one with this issue but didn’t directly admit it (I got the feeling from them that this is a known issue now, in previous dealings with them they acted surprised). They said they’ve switched manufacturers and are now selling a new and better motor to resolve the issue. I ordered a motor and yes it showed up looking different. The new style is painted black and has the IVO Prop logo on it. For reference the older style motors are chrome. I tested this new motor and it works, but I haven’t tried it on the plane as I’m looking to sell the works. I’ll install and run it if it doesn’t sell as I love this IFA setup when it works. I should add that when it works it works exceptionally!!! Very impressed and a huge thanks to IVO for making such a great system. Not so much when it quits and I’m 3 hours from home stuck on fine pitch doing 85mph compared to the 115mph I normally get. Or I’m in short stuck on coarse pitch. I learned that lesson once and now I always check the prop that it will go fine pitch before landing short strips.
To sum it up, if the winding maintains continuity with the armature I’m sure there’d be hundreds of hours trouble free operation.
I also completely disassembled the planetary, cleaned and lubricated. Turns much easier now.
Pelican PL
912ULS
Murle Williams through hub mod (highly recommend)
IVO 70” medium 2 blade
I might of stated all I did, but I got a motor from IVO with a black case at the time, the casing had scratches on it, but all internals were new, rebuilt. I installed the motor and took everything apart on the gearing and cleaned with brake klean and put my universal synthetic lube on all gears, inspecting the gears the 3 top gears closest to the motor was wallowed out in the center, replaced those. Now I haven't had any trouble in a long time now, this was at least a year ago I did this. I fly over a 100 hrs a year on this plane. Now interesting is also the prop had much more movement, it went to a finer pitch, crazy. changed much faster as well. My thoughts is with the white grease it was causing a bind in movement and causing electrical strain. meaning it was causing more amps through the wiring. I had problems with the screws loosening for the brushes in the motor, about every 5 hours I would have to remove the cap and tighten because it quit. than the screws would strip on the end for the driver. what a mess, than the motor would quit all together, the armature was shot. I was totally ****ed. I haven't had a trouble in a long time. I feel good.
steve
slyfox
model IV 1200-flying
912uls
IVO medium in-flight
RV7A-flying
IO-360
constant speed prop
David,
Thanks for sharing your experience as well. I also thought I was having unique issues, particularly after IVOProp assured me they had updated the motor and those armatures also failed. Undoubtedly, the constant speed controller makes the motor work much harder. I don't have a lot of experience with props, and none with constant speed props prior to my IVO setup, but I am enjoying the prop very much since I resolved the motor issues.
Doug
Super Sport
912ULS
Constant Speed IVOProp
Doug,
You mentioned the updated motor that also failed, was it one of the black ones with the logo or a chrome one that failed? I bought a black one a few months ago.
I believe the motor I purchased after my first failure had a silver can. After subsequent failures, I only purchased armatures from IVOProp.
Doug
Super Sport
912ULS
Constant Speed IVOProp
I know this thread is almost a year old, but does anyone know of any videos of anyone rebuilding a IFA motor? I searched on Youtube but cannot find anything?
Charlie Rosenzweig
Magnolia KY