Kitfox Aircraft Stick and Rudder Stein Air Grove Aircraft TCW Technologies Dynon Avionics AeroLED MGL Avionics Leading Edge Airfoils Desser EarthX Batteries Garmin G3X Touch
Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234
Results 31 to 40 of 40

Thread: The Salt Fox Build Log

  1. #31
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Yorba Linda, CA
    Posts
    2,817

    Default Re: The Salt Fox Build Log

    Our servos were purchased nearly 5 years ago. Your Serial Numbers are well after those that had problems.
    Eddie Forward
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Garmin G3X

  2. #32
    Senior Member Flybyjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Marysville, Pa.
    Posts
    585

    Default Re: The Salt Fox Build Log

    Thanks Eddie, good to know

  3. #33

    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    West Jordan, Utah
    Posts
    12

    Default Re: The Salt Fox Build Log

    Hey Guys,

    Getting quite a bit done on the flight controls. Cracked a couple bushings on the mounting bracket couldn't believe it, but at least they came out clean when it happened. Waiting on replacements now so I can mount the assembly in the plane.

    PXL_20201211_013416760.jpg

    Had a couple questions with the aileron bell crank assembly. I am fitting the aileron bell crank to the Idler bell crank and step 56 on page 24 in Section B of the Flight Controls. The directions specify a minimum amount of side to side play, and I was curious if that meant zero or one washer from zero play. I attached a picture of the current gap, and a washer will fit there with no extra binding, but also zero lateral play. I know that bell cranks typically have some play, so I just wanted to confirm.


    PXL_20201213_040148169.jpg

    Second, the idler crank is extremely tight, it moves freely, but takes a good amount of pressure to move it around. It seems like the tabs are a bit too close together, should those be bent slightly apart to make it loose, or is it fine as it is?

    PXL_20201213_053635443.jpg

  4. #34
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Mapleton,UT
    Posts
    1,224

    Default Re: The Salt Fox Build Log

    For controls you want as loose as you can get without slop. Yes you want that to move freely, as in it falls to one side on its own. All the friction adds up and you will have stiff controls, so make sure all the components move easily. Are the tabs bent in slightly? Make sure they are straight and then make sure power coating is not built up.
    Dustin Dickerson

    Building 7ss STI x 2
    Oratex
    29" shock monster
    EP912STI 155hp
    Garmin
    N33TF......FLYING!
    N53TF......FLYING!

  5. #35

    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    West Jordan, Utah
    Posts
    12

    Default Re: The Salt Fox Build Log

    Hey Guys,

    Making some good progress. Got nearly all the base controls in and started on the floor boards. I ruined the first phenolic block by over enlarging the hole, so I had to order a new one from kitfox.

    PXL_20201220_215529510.jpg
    PXL_20201220_215519704.jpg
    PXL_20201220_215534161.jpg


    Now, I'm overly worried about over sanding this new one, and even with about 1/32" of an inch removed. If I torque down the front bolt, and leave the back one loose, there's no tightness on the elevator axis. With both torqued it's extremely tight, and doesn't seem to change as I remove material. At this point, I'm wondering if I switch to castellated nuts and split pin the bolts, and if I'm getting different bolts I could get ones with heads drilled and safety wire the bolts together as well. This would allow the block to remain tight and prevent play.

    PXL_20201220_215254255.jpg

    Wondering if anyone else has had a large amount of issues getting zero tightness on the elevator axis.

  6. #36
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    2,960

    Default Re: The Salt Fox Build Log

    Yes I also had to do a lot of work to get that plastic block to fit right when torqued down. Seemed like a lot of sanding took place without much change in tightness. Then fairly quickly it started to get better. One thing to check: the block mounting may not be perfectly square to the control shaft. Put some marking material on the shaft and bolt down the block and rotate the shaft. Then remove the block and see where the shaft was rubbing. You may have to sand off material in a slightly non-symmetrical way to get a good fit without too much looseness.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  7. #37

    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Park City, UT
    Posts
    24

    Default Re: The Salt Fox Build Log

    I had the same issues and went nuts installing ,removing, and re-installing over and over. turns out the mounting tabs were not on the same plane and a trip to Aircraft Home Depot for some SS washers in varying thickness to shim the blocks did the trick. No tension at all now.

  8. #38

    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    West Jordan, Utah
    Posts
    12

    Default Re: The Salt Fox Build Log

    I'm getting really close to putting in the pitot tube. I was wondering if there was a different solution available than the one kitfox suggests. I'd like to do 2 color line for the Garmin pitot+aoa. I ordered parts of the stein air kit, but I'm not a huge fan of the tubing and I won't use the push type connectors, from what I've heard people have more problems than the kitfox solution. So, I was wondering if this was an acceptable solution, or if I should just do it the way the manual suggests with different tubing.

    PXL_20211005_185520394.jpg

    Further, I was curious what kind of tubing these guys are using, as the nylon tubing from stein is rather rigid.

    Capture.PNG

    From Geeks build above and below is from Kitplane Enthusiast's build.

    enthusiast.jpg

  9. #39
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Leavenworth WA
    Posts
    613

    Default Re: The Salt Fox Build Log

    Here's a link to the tubing kit I used.

    https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...forskyview.php

    Geek
    Gary (Geek) Phenning
    Leavenworth (Not the Prison), WA
    Kitfox STi in Building Stage

  10. #40
    Senior Member Delta Whisky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Amissville, VA
    Posts
    637

    Default Re: The Salt Fox Build Log

    Fallen - I'm with you and don't use any standard connectors in a pneumatic line. From the first problem I encountered 40 years ago I've used silicon tubing from a medical/laboratory supply house to make all tubing connections. (If is isn't expensive it isn't the right stuff.) It is very elastic, has a broad temp range, and doesn't age. (I have some over 30 years old that is indistinguishable from new.) Since it kinks easily (and, did I mention, expensive), I don't use it except for direct connections. Almost any high quality tubing will work for the long runs; I used what came in the kit. If a tight bend or turn is required I use high quality plastic right angle connectors available at lots of good hardware stores or ACS.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •