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Thread: Tips for Installing Rudder Springs

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
    Posts
    52

    Default Tips for Installing Rudder Springs

    I had to take the rudder pedal assembly out of my Super Sport to correct some mistakes the original builder made. I also installed the retention clasps on the front pulleys since I have the adjustable rudder pedals and the original builder never put them in. I am trying to put everything back now and am having a hell of a time getting the springs back onto the bolt holes. I can get them all in but it's usually just the tip of the springs in the hole and I don't have confidence it will stay in all orientations during flight. The firewall forward and engine is fully attached at this point, so my access is very limited.

    Does anyone have any good tricks that they've used to get the spring on without a lot of access? My goal is to get the spring fully through the bolt hole so the end of the loop comes out the other side and stays fully engaged.

  2. #2
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    2,960

    Default Re: Tips for Installing Rudder Springs

    A borescope type camera may enable you to see what you are doing in a very confined area. They can be had quite inexpensively to attach to your cell phone camera.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Harvard, IL
    Posts
    337

    Default Re: Tips for Installing Rudder Springs

    You might try taking a screwdriver and with a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool cut a notch in the blade to catch the spring loop and work it into the bolt hole.

    Rick

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
    Posts
    52

    Default Re: Tips for Installing Rudder Springs

    I figured out how to do this, in case someone in the future has the same problem. The trick is to not tighten the nut before putting on the spring. Tightening the nut in advance is the better option if you don't have an engine attached and have plenty of access.

    In this case though, by allowing the nut to be loose, you let the tension of the spring move the hole on the bolt around as needed to align itself properly. Once it's fully seated in, you can take a crowfoot on a torque wrench and gently tighten back to spec. You will definitely need a second set of hands to hold the bolt in place while you tighten the nut to spec. If the bolt moves while tightening, you could risk bending the spring.

    Doing this method took all of 30 seconds to get all the springs on. I only wish I had thought of it before spending several hours trying to get the spring attached.

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