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Thread: 458lk

  1. #11
    tdldedcd's Avatar
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    Default Re: 458LK

    Jim,

    I literally thought I had the wrong ribs too. Double and triple checked. I was thinking of doing like you suggested using the scrap stiffeners wood to fill in the gap. I'll shape the scrap to lengthen the back of the rib, re-shape the contour and then strengthen by adding stiffeners to both sides of the lengthened section. I'll snap a photo when it's donut see what you think.
    Todd Downing
    SS7 458LK
    Building
    G3X
    915is, Airmaster prop

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Jul 2018
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    Westfield, IN
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    187

    Default Re: 458LK

    Triple check. The odds of those being short is pretty low. When I first laid mine out they didnt seem to line up right.

  3. #13
    tdldedcd's Avatar
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    Default Re: 458LK

    Thanks for the advice.

    It was the 3rd rib from the middle on both sides of the elevator (the 203 spot). I used the 2nd longest rib from the bundle for this spot, but it was just short. Here is what I have done to lengthen it. I cut the tail end of the rib off to the point it was the same thickness as the rib stiffeners. This gave a little more length and strength to the patch. I then added more stiffeners on both sides to sandwich the patch. I used the section of tail I cut off as a template to shape the patch. It's chunky but I was going for strength.
    fixed rib1.jpg
    fixed rib 2.jpg

    I'm open for any concerns or comments.
    Todd Downing
    SS7 458LK
    Building
    G3X
    915is, Airmaster prop

  4. #14
    tdldedcd's Avatar
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    Default Re: 458LK

    Was able to make a little progress this week. Work has been crazy so finding time to build is challenging. Ran into a snag that I would sure appreciate some advice on. The previous owner/builder pressed the bushing into the horizontal stab. They all look good except for one. It is not flush. I tried the c-clamp method to get it the rest of the way in but it won't budge. Any suggestions for getting it out?
    bearing.jpg

    Thanks for the help.
    Todd Downing
    SS7 458LK
    Building
    G3X
    915is, Airmaster prop

  5. #15
    Senior Member PapuaPilot's Avatar
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    Nov 2013
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    Nampa, Idaho
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    1,225

    Default Re: 458LK

    Heat might help, but don't get it too hot.

    For removal you can use a fine thread bolt (like an AN3), nut, socket and a bushing that is slightly smaller than the bushing you are removing. Put the bushing on one side and the socket on the other. Make sure the socket is big enough to receive the aircraft bushing. Draw this smaller bushing into the elevator by tightening the bolt & nut. The aircraft bushing will go into the socket. Viola. It's all about having the right size socket, bushing and the right length bolt(s).
    Phil Nelson
    A&P-IA, Maintenance Instructor
    KF 5 Outback, Cont. IO-240
    Flying since 2016

  6. #16
    tdldedcd's Avatar
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    Default Re: 458LK

    Thx Phil! I'll give it a try when I get home.
    Todd Downing
    SS7 458LK
    Building
    G3X
    915is, Airmaster prop

  7. #17
    tdldedcd's Avatar
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    Nov 2019
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    Default Re: 458LK

    It's been a while since I have posted anything. Work has kept me incredibly busy, but I've been able to carve some time here and there to a least keep things moving. I keep hearing Brian O'Neil's words playing in my head. "Try to get something done everyday you are home." Sometimes it's something pretty small, but at least it's something. Thanks Brian!

    I was able to get the stuck bearing out of the HS. Tried heat with the bolt method but no luck. Finally ended up using a coping saw to cut it out. A little nerve racking and time consuming, but got it out without any damage to the HS.

    I've almost completely rebuild and torqued everything the previous builder completed. I didn't like how stiff the control movements were, so I disassembled that, sanded a lot and go it moving way smoother. Thanks to Joe Ruscito's great tip on using a syringe with sandpaper taped to it to sand down the inside of the control column bearing! Almost done doing the same thing with the rudder pedals. Both outboard pedals were very stiff. Needed a couple of parts from Kitfox to complete. Repainting a the visible interior black. Have a little more finish work and that'll be done too.

    Here are the stages of the of the HS tip shaping. Pretty happy with the end result.
    HS tip3.jpg
    elevator tips2.jpg
    elevator tip1.jpg

    I had a question for the group. The bottom ribs in the VS and the rudder don't line up if you glue them to the frame. Has anyone else had this problem and how did you address it? I'd appreciate any advice from the group. Thanks.
    20201012_131749.jpg
    Got all the rest of the ribs in. A couple still need Hysol, but they are tacked in with modelers glue.
    Tail.jpg

    That's it for now. Thanks to all the builders that have posted in the past. Your build logs are a great help and motivation!
    Todd Downing
    SS7 458LK
    Building
    G3X
    915is, Airmaster prop

  8. #18
    Senior Member
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    Apr 2010
    Location
    Bryan, Texas
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    558

    Default Re: 458LK

    I ran into the bottom rib thing a few months ago. I found 2 things. The curve on the lower rudder tubing would cause the lead edge of the rib to raise up when it was pushed down tight to the tubing in the middle. (slightly banannas the rib) Also, I had to notch the bottom rudder rib to clear the weld on the vertical rudder tube. It too was raising the lead edge of the botton rib. I then "clipped" the lower fuselage rib (VS) to the bottom rudder rib with popsicle sticks and clothes pins, sandwhiching the ribs into alignment. I left the middle of the rib to kind of "float" in dabs of hysol, instead of forcing it to conform to the curved tubing, and glued it as a unit so everything lined up. Not sure if this is the "proper" way but it worked for me and it turned out nice and straight.



    Also, it would be worth doing the tailwheel spring pad reinforcement now rather than later. It requires welding so it would be easier now.

    https://teamkitfox.com/Forums/thread...hlight=gussets
    Last edited by Jerrytex; 10-15-2020 at 02:44 PM.

  9. #19
    tdldedcd's Avatar
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    Default Rudder threaded bearing not straight

    Hi all,

    Happy Holidays!! Hope everyone is doing well. Had a little time to work on the plane and ran into another snag. I'm turning to the collective brain power of the Kitfox forum group again in hopes of getting some advice.

    I was finishing up the speedster tail and balsa tops for the VS and rudder when I noticed a misalignment at the top of the tail. After closer inspection by myself and all the neighborhood pilots, we discovered the threaded bushing on top of the tail post is not straight. It's about 1/8" to the right. This causes the rudder to stick out past the VS on the right side when I put the bolt through the rod end. As soon as I take the bolt out, the rudder moves into perfect position.

    Would it be better to tweak the threaded bearing or the rod end? I'm concerned with damaging the welds of the threaded bearing and am leaning more towards tweaking the rod ends.

    I would really appreciate any insight on thoughts you might have.

    Thanks for taking a look.

    rudder bushing.jpg
    Not the best photo but hopefully it helps.
    Todd Downing
    SS7 458LK
    Building
    G3X
    915is, Airmaster prop

  10. #20
    tdldedcd's Avatar
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    Default Rudder cable swagging

    Ok, one more question. When you guys clamped the rudder pedals together in preparation for sagging the co-pilot cables to the pilot cables, where do you have the pedals positioned. I've combed the sight and have found multiple positions. Some clamp all 4 pedals just forward of the forward-most frame tube and others have clamped them in what will be the neutral rudder pedal position. It does make about an 1 1/2" difference in the cable position. The manual specifically says to swag the cables together at a point 62-63" from the lift strut carry through tube. The rudder pedal position could definitely affect this distance.

    What have the majority of you done? Am I overthinking this?

    Rudder pedal in the forward position.
    rudder forward.jpg
    Rudder pedals neutral
    rudder neutral.jpg

    Thanks for your thoughts.

    Todd
    Todd Downing
    SS7 458LK
    Building
    G3X
    915is, Airmaster prop

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