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  1. #1
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Jun 2015
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    Yorba Linda, CA
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    Default Re: 458LK

    Ok Todd, the clock is ticking. Im waiting for a flying partner. I finally have someone close to home that I can help out from time to time with special tools you may like to use. Rivet squeezer, sheet metal edge bender, sheet metal bender etc. etc. etc.. Have you finished the inventory yet? JK
    P.S. Fred B., The offer of tools is open to you as well. Get busy you two. Now we just need to get Kevin over his hurdles so he can get back to building his SS7. The three of you are all at about the same spot in the build right now.
    Last edited by efwd; 08-04-2020 at 08:00 AM.
    Eddie Forward
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Garmin G3X

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Jun 2008
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    wales,ny
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    Default Re: 458LK

    Eddie, your last name is fitting, because you sure do pay it "Forward" , nice gesture on time and tools , great forum members we have. Bruce N199CL

  3. #3
    tdldedcd's Avatar
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    Nov 2019
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    Murrieta, CA
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    Default Re: 458LK

    It's been a while since I have posted anything. Work has kept me incredibly busy, but I've been able to carve some time here and there to a least keep things moving. I keep hearing Brian O'Neil's words playing in my head. "Try to get something done everyday you are home." Sometimes it's something pretty small, but at least it's something. Thanks Brian!

    I was able to get the stuck bearing out of the HS. Tried heat with the bolt method but no luck. Finally ended up using a coping saw to cut it out. A little nerve racking and time consuming, but got it out without any damage to the HS.

    I've almost completely rebuild and torqued everything the previous builder completed. I didn't like how stiff the control movements were, so I disassembled that, sanded a lot and go it moving way smoother. Thanks to Joe Ruscito's great tip on using a syringe with sandpaper taped to it to sand down the inside of the control column bearing! Almost done doing the same thing with the rudder pedals. Both outboard pedals were very stiff. Needed a couple of parts from Kitfox to complete. Repainting a the visible interior black. Have a little more finish work and that'll be done too.

    Here are the stages of the of the HS tip shaping. Pretty happy with the end result.
    HS tip3.jpg
    elevator tips2.jpg
    elevator tip1.jpg

    I had a question for the group. The bottom ribs in the VS and the rudder don't line up if you glue them to the frame. Has anyone else had this problem and how did you address it? I'd appreciate any advice from the group. Thanks.
    20201012_131749.jpg
    Got all the rest of the ribs in. A couple still need Hysol, but they are tacked in with modelers glue.
    Tail.jpg

    That's it for now. Thanks to all the builders that have posted in the past. Your build logs are a great help and motivation!
    Todd Downing
    SS7 458LK
    Building
    G3X
    915is, Airmaster prop

  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    Apr 2010
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    Bryan, Texas
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    561

    Default Re: 458LK

    I ran into the bottom rib thing a few months ago. I found 2 things. The curve on the lower rudder tubing would cause the lead edge of the rib to raise up when it was pushed down tight to the tubing in the middle. (slightly banannas the rib) Also, I had to notch the bottom rudder rib to clear the weld on the vertical rudder tube. It too was raising the lead edge of the botton rib. I then "clipped" the lower fuselage rib (VS) to the bottom rudder rib with popsicle sticks and clothes pins, sandwhiching the ribs into alignment. I left the middle of the rib to kind of "float" in dabs of hysol, instead of forcing it to conform to the curved tubing, and glued it as a unit so everything lined up. Not sure if this is the "proper" way but it worked for me and it turned out nice and straight.



    Also, it would be worth doing the tailwheel spring pad reinforcement now rather than later. It requires welding so it would be easier now.

    https://teamkitfox.com/Forums/thread...hlight=gussets
    Last edited by Jerrytex; 10-15-2020 at 02:44 PM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Portland, OR
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    Default Re: 458lk

    tdldedcd, Why would you want to use silicone on the door frames? You will either be painting them or covering with fabric, neither of which will stick to silicone. Silicone or its residue should never be used near a paintable surface is what I have been told.

    For wing rigging, I understand your apprehension, I had the same. Just do exactly what the manual says and it will turn out fine. Its not like any small mistake is forever built-in; after you start flying you will probably tweak with the lift strut rod end adjustment to get perfect hands off wings level performance.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  6. #6
    tdldedcd's Avatar
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    Murrieta, CA
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    69

    Default Re: 458lk

    Haven't posted in a long time. Work has been crazy so all my spare time has fully been dedicated to building. I'll do my best to include all i've been able to get done since my last post. It's still a sloth speed build so keep the expectations low!

    #1 rib in and check with wing on. For those that are yet to do this step, make sure you reinstall the wing after you hysol the #1 rib and allow to fully cure with wing on. I learned this the hard way.
    IMG_1235.jpg
    Jury strut rigged and measurements recorded.

    IMG_1234.jpg
    Fuel tanks cleaned out, fittings installed and pressure tested.
    IMG_1246.jpg
    Tanks and sight gauge installed, false ribs cut and installed, #2 rib and trailing edge installed, spars primed, LLE installed and sanded
    IMG_1717.jpg
    Cool pic I snapped while flying with Paul at Stick and Rudder this June.
    FullSizeRender.jpg
    Last edited by tdldedcd; 10-03-2021 at 04:09 PM.
    Todd Downing
    SS7 458LK
    Building
    G3X
    915is, Airmaster prop

  7. #7
    tdldedcd's Avatar
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    Nov 2019
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    Murrieta, CA
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    Default Re: 458lk

    Thanks Harlan for the kind words and all your help and support!

    Brett, you got it. Trying to offset all the weight up front!
    Todd Downing
    SS7 458LK
    Building
    G3X
    915is, Airmaster prop

  8. #8
    tdldedcd's Avatar
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    Default Re: 458LK

    Thx Phil! I'll give it a try when I get home.
    Todd Downing
    SS7 458LK
    Building
    G3X
    915is, Airmaster prop

  9. #9
    tdldedcd's Avatar
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    Nov 2019
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    Murrieta, CA
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    Default stringers, doorframes, rudder cables and speedster tail

    Finally getting back to some quality build time and seeing some progress.

    Worked with John at Kitfox to resolve the offset rudder issue. What I'm pretty sure happened is when I was widening the rudder ribs slot where it slides onto the front of the the rudder, I did not sand them evenly. This made for more rib on the right side. I was able to sand the right side of the fiberglass fairing and ribs down so that there is no perceivable difference. Thanks for your advice Harlan. Glad I didn't end up having to go that route!


    With the rudder issue resolved, I was able to work on the rudder and VS tops. Almost got those done. One more pass with the finer grit paper should get it.

    IMG_0998.jpg

    Got the rudder cables in and swagged.
    IMG_1001.jpg

    Almost done with the door frames. Final tweaks and then I'll put them in permanently with rivets and either silicon or a little Hysol. Haven't made up my mind. Merits to both ways. Anyone that used silicone or something other than hysol ever have an issue with the frame coming loose?
    IMG_0999.jpg
    Started reaming in preparation for mounting and rigging the wings. This kit did not come with the pre-rigged wings. A little nervous about this part. i've read through the manual 4-5 times and my confidence level is going up. For those that rigged their wings, do you have any advice or lessons learned? As always, any advice is always appreciated.
    IMG_1002.jpg
    Decided to rivnut the bubble doors to the frame so waiting for a rivnut gun I ordered. Once that comes, I'll get to cutting the doors. No pressure there.

    Also got both wings completely sanded and inspected. Is it normal to have finger spasms after that much sanding?

    That's it for now.
    Todd Downing
    SS7 458LK
    Building
    G3X
    915is, Airmaster prop

  10. #10
    Senior Member Kitfox Pilot's Avatar
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    Aug 2019
    Location
    Spring Garden Illinois
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    883

    Default Re: stringers, doorframes, rudder cables and speedster tail

    [QUOTE=tdldedcd;97304]Finally getting back to some quality build time and seeing some progress.

    Worked with John at Kitfox to resolve the offset rudder issue. What I'm pretty sure happened is when I was widening the rudder ribs slot where it slides onto the front of the the rudder, I did not sand them evenly. This made for more rib on the right side. I was able to sand the right side of the fiberglass fairing and ribs down so that there is no perceivable difference. Thanks for your advice Harlan. Glad I didn't end up having to go that route.

    I'm glad you got it lined out. Harlan
    Harlan and Susan Payne
    Flying FarmFox STI Kitfox N61HP
    Rotax 915is, Airmaster prop.
    https://www.youtube.com/@KitfoxPilot/videos

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