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Thread: 458lk

  1. #21
    Senior Member Kitfox Pilot's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rudder threaded bearing not straight

    Hi all. I was finishing up the speedster tail and balsa tops for the VS and rudder when I noticed a misalignment at the top of the tail. After closer inspection by myself and all the neighborhood pilots, we discovered the threaded bushing on top of the tail post is not straight. It's about 1/8" to the right. This causes the rudder to stick out past the VS on the right side when I put the bolt through the rod end. As soon as I take the bolt out, the rudder moves into perfect position.

    Would it be better to tweak the threaded bearing or the rod end? I'm concerned with damaging the welds of the threaded bearing and am leaning more towards tweaking the rod ends. end quote.




    Boy that's a tough one. Myself being a welder would cut it half or two thirds way around and straighten and reweld. I'm not sure you could tweak it being welded in with out cutting some metal around it. Bending the rod end doesn't sound good either.
    Do you have anyone near that runs a welding shop?


    Rudder pedal question. I attached them all to the front where the fire wall will be someday. Any where is fine for attaching the copilot pedals as long as they are all the same. Later when the rudder is hooked up you will want to position them for max foot stroke room.
    Last edited by Kitfox Pilot; 12-23-2020 at 07:56 PM.
    Harlan and Susan Payne
    Sold Piper Archer
    Flying FarmFox STI Kitfox N61HP
    Rotax 915is, Airmaster prop
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5A...oCVUP15G0uB-Yw

  2. #22
    tdldedcd's Avatar
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    Default Re: 458LK

    Harlan,

    Thanks for the advice. I'll wait until after Christmas and reach out to several of the certified welders in the area. It doesn't look like the threaded bushing is bent. It looks like maybe it is was misaligned when it was welded into the tail post. I know they use a jig when they weld the plane together so I'm not sure if it possible to be welded incorrectly.

    If I do partially cut it (I mean a welder)and bend it, won't that mess up the threads inside the bushing? Just trying to think it through.
    Todd Downing
    SS7 458LK
    Building
    G3X
    915is, Airmaster prop

  3. #23
    Senior Member Kitfox Pilot's Avatar
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    Default Re: 458LK

    Cut the metal outside the tube with threads and put a bolt in it to pull and align then weld the sheet metal back together after aligned . I would cut about 1/8'' out side the threaded tube. Your welder may have a better plan. I haven't seen it to know for sure.
    Harlan and Susan Payne
    Sold Piper Archer
    Flying FarmFox STI Kitfox N61HP
    Rotax 915is, Airmaster prop
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5A...oCVUP15G0uB-Yw

  4. #24
    tdldedcd's Avatar
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    Default Re: 458lk

    Thanks again Harlan! This gives me a starting point to talk to the welder so I have some idea of what I'm talking about. Definitely heading into uncharted territory on this one. Like my wife keeps reminding me, "You wanted a challenge."

    Take Care and Happy New Year!
    Todd Downing
    SS7 458LK
    Building
    G3X
    915is, Airmaster prop

  5. #25
    tdldedcd's Avatar
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    Default Re: 458lk

    The build has slowed down because I recently got current and finished up my tail wheel endorsement. Had a great flight with my better half and Kitfox buddy Eddie and his significant other. Looking forward to flying when we are both are in Kitfoxes!

    Received my tail wheel instruction/endorsement in this cool plane. Checked off a lot of bucket list items.
    Attachment 26917


    9095H.jpg

    Eddie’s plane looking good. Sorry for the upside down pictures.



    Attachment 26945
    Midlife1.jpg
    5A500E41-F80F-4952-B57D-04F2BA02F6BF.jpeg

    My awesome copilot.

    copilot.jpg

    Amazing views all around.
    68BA02E5-E6D8-429E-A51B-6A429B1A386C.jpg

    Attachment 26922Breaks over. Time to get to back to work. More build photos to follow soon.




    Attachment 26918
    Todd Downing
    SS7 458LK
    Building
    G3X
    915is, Airmaster prop

  6. #26
    tdldedcd's Avatar
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    Default stringers, doorframes, rudder cables and speedster tail

    Finally getting back to some quality build time and seeing some progress.

    Worked with John at Kitfox to resolve the offset rudder issue. What I'm pretty sure happened is when I was widening the rudder ribs slot where it slides onto the front of the the rudder, I did not sand them evenly. This made for more rib on the right side. I was able to sand the right side of the fiberglass fairing and ribs down so that there is no perceivable difference. Thanks for your advice Harlan. Glad I didn't end up having to go that route!


    With the rudder issue resolved, I was able to work on the rudder and VS tops. Almost got those done. One more pass with the finer grit paper should get it.

    IMG_0998.jpg

    Got the rudder cables in and swagged.
    IMG_1001.jpg

    Almost done with the door frames. Final tweaks and then I'll put them in permanently with rivets and either silicon or a little Hysol. Haven't made up my mind. Merits to both ways. Anyone that used silicone or something other than hysol ever have an issue with the frame coming loose?
    IMG_0999.jpg
    Started reaming in preparation for mounting and rigging the wings. This kit did not come with the pre-rigged wings. A little nervous about this part. i've read through the manual 4-5 times and my confidence level is going up. For those that rigged their wings, do you have any advice or lessons learned? As always, any advice is always appreciated.
    IMG_1002.jpg
    Decided to rivnut the bubble doors to the frame so waiting for a rivnut gun I ordered. Once that comes, I'll get to cutting the doors. No pressure there.

    Also got both wings completely sanded and inspected. Is it normal to have finger spasms after that much sanding?

    That's it for now.
    Todd Downing
    SS7 458LK
    Building
    G3X
    915is, Airmaster prop

  7. #27
    Senior Member Kitfox Pilot's Avatar
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    Spring Garden Illinois
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    Default Re: stringers, doorframes, rudder cables and speedster tail

    [QUOTE=tdldedcd;97304]Finally getting back to some quality build time and seeing some progress.

    Worked with John at Kitfox to resolve the offset rudder issue. What I'm pretty sure happened is when I was widening the rudder ribs slot where it slides onto the front of the the rudder, I did not sand them evenly. This made for more rib on the right side. I was able to sand the right side of the fiberglass fairing and ribs down so that there is no perceivable difference. Thanks for your advice Harlan. Glad I didn't end up having to go that route.

    I'm glad you got it lined out. Harlan
    Harlan and Susan Payne
    Sold Piper Archer
    Flying FarmFox STI Kitfox N61HP
    Rotax 915is, Airmaster prop
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5A...oCVUP15G0uB-Yw

  8. #28
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Portland, OR
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    Default Re: 458lk

    tdldedcd, Why would you want to use silicone on the door frames? You will either be painting them or covering with fabric, neither of which will stick to silicone. Silicone or its residue should never be used near a paintable surface is what I have been told.

    For wing rigging, I understand your apprehension, I had the same. Just do exactly what the manual says and it will turn out fine. Its not like any small mistake is forever built-in; after you start flying you will probably tweak with the lift strut rod end adjustment to get perfect hands off wings level performance.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  9. #29
    tdldedcd's Avatar
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    Default Re: 458lk

    Thx for your advice Jim. I'm going to use hysol. I re-read the rigging directions again last night. It really looks pretty straight forward. Still, I'll be glad to be on the other side of this step.
    Todd Downing
    SS7 458LK
    Building
    G3X
    915is, Airmaster prop

  10. #30
    Senior Member
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    Apr 2010
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    Bryan, Texas
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    558

    Default Re: 458lk

    Wing rigging advice......Make sure that the "wear lines" on the spars are visible in the witness holes of the lift strut brackets.

    https://teamkitfox.com/Forums/thread...5716#post95716

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