Kitfox Aircraft Stick and Rudder Stein Air Grove Aircraft TCW Technologies Dynon Avionics AeroLED MGL Avionics Leading Edge Airfoils Desser EarthX Batteries Garmin G3X Touch
Page 30 of 47 FirstFirst ... 2026272829303132333440 ... LastLast
Results 291 to 300 of 466

Thread: The Barn Find Build

  1. #291
    Senior Member Eric Page's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Toledo, WA
    Posts
    863

    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    Quote Originally Posted by taff View Post
    I was looking at this photo, may I suggest a method to avoid getting paint flowing at edge and making the disc stick to the table.
    It's easier to pick object off table and It help prevent the object from blowing away when you use normal spray equipment.
    That part didn't actually stick to the table, believe it or not. I've been putting nuts and bolts from my garbage pile underneath parts to lift them up for painting, but I could see how a light object might not stay put when sprayed. I like your technique, as it not only lifts the part but holds it in place. Thanks!
    Eric Page
    Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
    Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

  2. #292
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Yorba Linda, CA
    Posts
    2,817

    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    You might consider using a piece of rubber hose to protect the airframe from that large hose clamp rather than the silicone tape. I employed the silicone tape under a number of wire ties on the engine mount and on this 100hr engine inspection I notice a couple wire ties that cut through the silicone. Much more heat and vibration in my installation but something to consider since it is a metal edge of the clamp that will do some real damage if the silicone tape fails.
    Eddie Forward
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Garmin G3X

  3. #293
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Steilacoom, WA
    Posts
    729

    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    I had the same issue regarding setting the rudder hinge length, since my rudder fairing had been installed by the previous builder. No way to measure the metal to metal distance and who knows if the fairing was installed right after that?

    I fiddled with the gap for quite a while, leaving out the center bearing until I got the gap at the top and bottom set. You need to account for the fabric that will be doubled up on both sides but you don't want a giant gap either.

    Thankfully I did not have the issue you did with the sideways shift of one of those bearing mounts.

    I am also facing the issue with rudder over travel. Mine swings far enough to hit the elevator. The good news is there are some creative solutions here on the forum which involve adding some set screws, which provide adjustment.
    Kitfox 5 (under construction)
    Commercial SE/ME, CFII

  4. #294
    Senior Member jrevens's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Arvada, CO
    Posts
    2,146

    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    Quote Originally Posted by efwd View Post
    You might consider using a piece of rubber hose to protect the airframe from that large hose clamp rather than the silicone tape. I employed the silicone tape under a number of wire ties on the engine mount and on this 100hr engine inspection I notice a couple wire ties that cut through the silicone. Much more heat and vibration in my installation but something to consider since it is a metal edge of the clamp that will do some real damage if the silicone tape fails.
    Good point Eddie. Silicone tape is very soft, and it “cold flows”. My experience is that it’s not particularly good under clamps. Clear urethane tape - the kind that is used for protection of leading edges of wings and propellers, car bras, etc., is very tough and great for that purpose.
    John Evens
    Arvada, CO
    Kitfox SS7 N27JE
    EAA Lifetime
    Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime

  5. #295
    Senior Member Eric Page's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Toledo, WA
    Posts
    863

    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    Quote Originally Posted by efwd View Post
    You might consider using a piece of rubber hose to protect the airframe from that large hose clamp rather than the silicone tape.
    Quote Originally Posted by jrevens View Post
    Good point Eddie. Silicone tape is very soft, and it “cold flows”. My experience is that it’s not particularly good under clamps. Clear urethane tape - the kind that is used for protection of leading edges of wings and propellers, car bras, etc., is very tough and great for that purpose.
    EXCELLENT points, gents. I'll make that change next time I'm in the garage. I have some rubber hose that came with the project (part of a 912UL firewall forward kit, I think). I'll chop off a short length of that and split it open.

    Quote Originally Posted by alexM View Post
    I had the same issue regarding setting the rudder hinge length, since my rudder fairing had been installed by the previous builder. No way to measure the metal to metal distance and who knows if the fairing was installed right after that?
    Exactly. I suspect that the fairing on my rudder is too far forward, hence the inadequate room for fabric even with the tube spacing set. I'm not that bothered, given that there's still 80% of the rod ends' threads engaged.

    I am also facing the issue with rudder over travel. Mine swings far enough to hit the elevator. The good news is there are some creative solutions here on the forum which involve adding some set screws, which provide adjustment.
    I'll do some searching for that; thanks.
    Eric Page
    Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
    Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

  6. #296
    Senior Member Eric Page's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Toledo, WA
    Posts
    863

    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    I found the info you mentioned, Alex, as well as this very sage advice from Jim Ott:

    Quote Originally Posted by jiott View Post
    I strongly recommend you don't set you final rudder stops until you have covered and painted the tail (applies only to airfoiled tail). The reason is the covering and painting add quite a bit of thickness to the rudder leading edge as well as the fairing on the vertical tail. You will then find you need to back out the rudder mounting rod eyes to allow clearance. As soon as you do that, it changes the rudder stops, which then requires you to ADD material to the rudder stops which is far more difficult to do than removing material. Just cool your jets and wait until covering and painting are done, then tackle this easy task of final rudder stops. Don't ask me how I know all this.
    I think I'll be happy with getting the alignment fixed and sit tight on the rest for now. Thanks, Jim!
    Eric Page
    Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
    Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

  7. #297
    Senior Member Eric Page's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Toledo, WA
    Posts
    863

    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    Not much time on the build yesterday.

    I took the big hose clamp off the roll servo and cut the silicone tape off of the fuselage tube. I'm very glad I did, as the clamp had already cut through it despite the plane sitting stationary on sawhorses. I found a few lengths of 5/16" MIL-H-6000 hose in the engine components box (1/94 manufacture date -- won't be using that on the engine!). I cut about 3" of it, slit it open, and put it around the fuselage tube. It not only does a much better job protecting the tube, it also replaces the wood shim I had in that space. Thanks again, Eddie and John.

    IMG_1405.jpg

    I assembled the hardware for the trim actuator scissor links. All great except I'm missing two #10 nylon washers. I was very careful to keep hardware organized as I removed it (usually put it back through the holes it came out of), so I can only conclude that the first builder didn't install them. The four nylon washers in this assembly are the first hardware that I've reused; everything else on the plane has been new.

    IMG_1406.jpg
    Eric Page
    Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
    Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

  8. #298
    Senior Member Eric Page's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Toledo, WA
    Posts
    863

    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    Began today sanding on one of the flaperons again. This is the one that had the three deepest dents, which I filled with SuperFil last time. I block sanded them until they were flush and flat, but two had very slight divots in the SuperFil that needed just a tad more applied to get them smooth. So, more sanding next time!

    IMG_1416.jpg IMG_1417.jpg

    I put a layer of Hysol on the aft end of the vertical stab tip, sealing up the exposed foam. That'll also need sanding. I wonder if RV builders do this much sanding...

    IMG_1419.jpg

    Next I got to work on the outboard tips of the flaperons. I cut two pieces of pink foam to the right size, traced the outline of each flaperon onto them, then worked them with a utility knife and some -- you guessed it: sanding! -- until they were the right shape to slip into the ends of the flaperons.

    IMG_1422.jpg IMG_1420.jpg

    IMG_1421.jpg IMG_1423.jpg

    Then I mixed up some Hysol, smeared it around the inner half-inch of the foam plugs and bonded them in.

    IMG_1424.jpg

    I'm guessing there'll be more sanding tomorrow.
    Eric Page
    Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
    Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

  9. #299
    Senior Member Eric Page's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Toledo, WA
    Posts
    863

    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    Today I started by sanding out the three spots of SuperFil that I added to one flaperon yesterday. One of them still needed a bit more to bring it level with the surrounding aluminum, so I mixed up a bit more and did that.

    While I had the flaperons in front of me, I did some more work on the tips. I started with the trusty wood rasp, first the rough side, then the fine, giving them a "pleasing" shape.

    IMG_1425.jpg

    Then I mixed up a batch of Hysol and added some micro balloons to slather on the foam. I didn't get a photo of it, but I did mask the end of the aluminum before applying the Hysol, then peeled it off before it set up.

    IMG_1435.jpg

    I can't say that I'm a fan of the Hysol+micro combination. It got really thick and stringy; much harder to smear to a smooth finish than straight Hysol. I'm hopeful that it'll be easier to sand than straight Hysol, because if it's not, I've got big job ahead of me. In either case, I'm sure they'll need a couple applications of SuperFil to get to a finished state.

    You probably noticed that the trailing edges of these foam tips are very thin. I strongly suspect that they'll break off if I look at them the wrong way, so I'm contemplating just breaking them off on purpose and rebuilding them out of SuperFil, perhaps with some chopped glass fiber mixed in for strength.

    Next I got started on repairing the seat pan. I put it in the plane and took some photos of the areas where the fit is poor, or where the cuts made by the first builder were unacceptably rough. I won't post the full horror, but here's a sampling of the butchery.

    IMG_1428.jpg IMG_1429.jpg

    IMG_1430.jpg IMG_1431.jpg

    IMG_1432.jpg IMG_1434.jpg

    I have absolutely no idea what's going on with all of the drilled holes in oddly shaped groups.

    My first step was to get the thing looking a little better, so I sanded the gelcoat lightly to remove staining and scratches. In the first photo, the right half is done, and in the second, the whole thing. If you haven't done it, I can't recommend this job. Gelcoat sands to a very fine powder that floats away and coats everything. Quite a mess.

    IMG_1438.jpg IMG_1439.jpg

    Next I started on the repairs. Using coarse (100 grit?) paper, I sanded the back side of the pan around each of the spots where it was drilled to rough it up for patching. Then I vacuumed up the dust, wiped it well with acetone and applied a piece of packing tape over each group of holes.

    IMG_1442.jpg

    Then I opened a can of this stuff...

    IMG_1447.jpg

    ...and just about gagged. Talk about foul! The lid went right back on while I put on my respirator. With PPE in place, I measured out 10 grams and added 5 drops of MEKP activator (or is it catalyzer?). The putty (really more of a gel consistency) comes out of the can a pale blue color, but changes to a light green when you mix in the MEKP. Like with Hysol, it's a handy way to know that you've mixed it thoroughly.

    Working from the back side, I troweled a small amount into each group of holes, including a thin skim of it on the surrounding area so it will hopefully get a good grip on the seat.

    IMG_1443.jpg IMG_1444.jpg

    Once the holes were all filled I had some of the putty left, so I decided to do a little experiment on one edge. I don't really know what I'm doing here, so go easy on me if you're a fiberglass pro (Alex...).

    I used a piece of packing tape to form a small dam against the edge of the seat pan where there was a particularly rough cut, then applied putty against the edge of the pan and the tape. I built it up to what looked like enough, then set the whole mess aside to cure. I suspect this won't have enough strength to avoid snapping off, but I went into it thinking it was an experiment. If it does snap off I'm right back where I started, with only a few minutes wasted.

    IMG_1445.jpg IMG_1446.jpg

    I think when I use this stuff again, I'm going to mix in quite a bit more chopped glass fiber to thicken it up. It was a very loose gel, and hard to sculpt to the shape I wanted. It doesn't slump, but it's very soft.
    Eric Page
    Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
    Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

  10. #300
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Bryan, Texas
    Posts
    558

    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    Looks good. Yeah the original builder probably did everyone a favor by passing on that plane to someone who actually cares about workmanship.

    On my untouched seat pan, the upper corners seemed weak. They flexed quite a bit and were cracked. I reinforced both corners with layers of fiberglass and reshaped. Not sure if it was just the quality of the fiberglass parts back then or what. However, I will say that even the new fiberglass parts leave a lot to be desired. Although, the beauty of fiberglass is... it's easy to fix but still a PITA.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •