Thanks for reminding me that I need to do that rudder horn modification.
And to check the dates on my 50ml tubes
Thanks for reminding me that I need to do that rudder horn modification.
And to check the dates on my 50ml tubes
Kitfox 5 (under construction)
Commercial SE/ME, CFII
Like Jim, I like the Scotch Weld 2216 also. It is an excellent adhesive and has been used in the aerospace industry for many decades. I did use the Hysol for my Kitfox though, and used a few of the 50 ml tubes toward the end. I’ve got some left that is several years past the date, & that I used on another project recently. I really haven’t ever had it get thick enough to clog the nozzle(s) on the tubes. Just a couple of hopefully useful thoughts about that - first, I’ve always stored the stuff in a dry, cool location in my basement shop. It might even be beneficial to keep it in the refrigerator if it isn’t going to be used for awhile? Secondly, I’ve always been real careful to carefully clean off the tip of the nozzles on the tube after use & before reinstalling the cap, while making sure to not get even a tiny bit of mix between the hardener & resin. Also, always orient the cap so that the same “plug” always goes into the same nozzle (resin or hardener) each time. I’m sure most everyone does that, but just in case…
John Evens
Arvada, CO
Kitfox SS7 N27JE
EAA Lifetime
Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime
When my 50 ml tubes get kind of old, I do not use the mixing nozzle. I just push the two streams of resin & hardener directly out of the tubes into a small cup and then mix it up by hand. The mixing nozzle is VERY restrictive; it takes a lot of pressure to push it through even with brand new Hysol.
Jim Ott
Portland, OR
Kitfox SS7 flying
Rotax 912ULS
I do the same thing, Jim.
John Evens
Arvada, CO
Kitfox SS7 N27JE
EAA Lifetime
Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime
Even easier is to just leave the tip on it. The stuff that is mixed in the tip will kick off but only part way up. When I need Hysol I just throw away the old tip and install a new one. I learned that trick from the folks at one of my previous employers.Secondly, I’ve always been real careful to carefully clean off the tip of the nozzles on the tube after use & before reinstalling the cap, while making sure to not get even a tiny bit of mix between the hardener & resin. Also, always orient the cap so that the same “plug” always goes into the same nozzle (resin or hardener) each time. I’m sure most everyone does that, but just in case…
Funny story about the Scotchweld 2216. My project came with wings made using the stuff (and some poorly drilled holes). At the time I thought I could remove the ribs and use them on my new spars (thank the maker I couldn't get them off because it allowed me to use SS7 style ribs and flaperon hangers). I got as far as drilling out the rivets on the drag/anti drag tubes on one wing and hung them up in my hangar as man cave art. The ropes I used were tied around the spars and pulled slightly outward in each direction towards the roof joists.
Two weeks ago while I was holding down a couch in my hangar that 2216 let go. The forward spar was by itself and the ribs and rear spar danced around overhead while I stared in amazement. I guess that 2216 (and probably 9460) are actually just extremely viscous liquid, like glass is. I put rivets back in the holes to restore my "artwork".
Kitfox 5 (under construction)
Commercial SE/ME, CFII
Yikes. Good thing it didn't let go completely and land on one of the new wings!
My experience with 2216 was a bit different. I tried to re-use the end fittings from my original elevator push/pull tube but I couldn't get them out even with a propane torch and vice grips. Finally gave up and sent Kitfox more money.
Eric Page
Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
Map of Landings