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Thread: The Barn Find Build

  1. #371
    Senior Member PapuaPilot's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    I like those. Highly recommended.
    Phil Nelson
    A&P-IA, Maintenance Instructor
    KF 5 Outback, Cont. IO-240
    Flying since 2016

  2. #372
    Senior Member Eric Page's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    Sweet. "A couple of bucks" is much more my speed. Thanks, Larry.
    Eric Page
    Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
    Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

  3. #373
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    Thanks Larry. This will be an easy adjustment now. But then again, I may have got my pins trapped better than I think they are.
    Eddie Forward
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Garmin G3X

  4. #374
    Senior Member Eric Page's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    Wow, it's amazing how quickly time can get away from you and momentum gets lost. It seems like May was a really unproductive month...

    Today I pulled the old cables out of the wings and installed new for the wingtip lights, which I ran through the aft spars. Those are 4-conductor cables to run Whelen Orion 600s, which I chose for two reasons: they're a direct replacement for the old incandescent Whelen lights that came with my plane so their footprint will fit the fiberglass light mount that I have, and they feature lenses that are field-replaceable ($17 ea.) if they get scratched or cracked. Anyway, the four wires are for ground, position, anti-collision and synchronization.

    I also installed cables for landing and taxi lights, which I terminated at the strut attach fittings. I figure on hanging some off-road lights there since my Hoerner wingtips have no provision for leading edge lights. Those cables are two-conductor, and I'll roll my own controller to accomplish wig-wag.

    Finally today, I pulled the pitot and AOA tubing through the aft spars and coiled it up at the #1 rib. It looks like I'm going to need to buy some more tubing, as I don't think what's left will make it all the way to the ADAHRS box.



    In other recent progress, I brought home a bunch of Rotax 912 installation parts from AlexM's hangar, which he sold to me at a generous discount since they're of no use for his Verner radial (thanks again, Alex!). Debra was kind enough to send me the inventory sheet for Kitfox's 912iS installation kit, so I compared Alex's parts against that, then put in an order to Kitfox for the remainder of the parts to complete that kit.

    I also ordered the engine from Kitfox. They haven't told me yet what the lead time is on it, but I'm at least several months away from needing it. The engine I ordered is a 912iS Type 3, which Debra informs me is correct for a hydraulic constant speed propeller governor. Yes, ladies and gentlemen, I'm installing a blue knob!

    I just couldn't resist doing something a little outside the ordinary. The propeller will be a 71" 3-blade DUC Hélices FLASHBLACK (from France), controlled by a Jihostroj P110-030/A governor (from the Czech Republic). The hub, blades and spinner are mostly carbon and weigh a combined 15.2 lbs, and the governor weighs 2.3 lbs. Add 5 lbs for the control cable and hardware, and the installed weight should be under 23 lbs. I ordered the prop and governor this week as well.
    Eric Page
    Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
    Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

  5. #375
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    Wink Re: The Barn Find Build

    I know what you mean about productivity. I went from about 3 weeks ahead of my imaginary schedule to feeling like I'm a month behind in just a blink.

    You're a turbine guy. Are you even going to know what to do with a blue knob?


    Hydraulic? Am I to understand this version of the 912iS allows for a conventionally governed CS prop? I didn't know that was even an option.
    Kitfox 5 (under construction)
    Commercial SE/ME, CFII

  6. #376
    Senior Member Eric Page's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    Quote Originally Posted by alexM View Post
    You're a turbine guy. Are you even going to know what to do with a blue knob?

    Hydraulic? Am I to understand this version of the 912iS allows for a conventionally governed CS prop? I didn't know that was even an option.
    Hopefully I'll remember enough not to break anything on the first flight!

    Neither did I. Apparently the Type 1 is for fixed/adjustable pitch props and the Type 3 has a pad for a standard oil-pressure-driven governor. No idea if there's a Type 2.
    Eric Page
    Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
    Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

  7. #377
    Senior Member Eric Page's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    Figured I might overcome the shame and self-loathing of making so little progress if I posted a small update. This covers more than a month, so you can understand the first sentence!

    I ran the cables in my wings for the wingtip nav/position/strobe lights and landing/taxi lights. All of them pass through the rear spar, both to keep them neat and to facilitate wing folding with minimal strain on the cables. Sorry, no photo.

    I ran the two-core cable for the elevator trim motor and the comm antenna coax from the tail up to the front. This gave me an excuse to learn and get plenty of practice using lacing tape. There were some moments of frustration to be sure, but it looks nice and is quite satisfying.

    IMG_1639.jpg IMG_1640.jpg

    I also built a forest-of-tabs ground block from a piece of brass plate (sourced cheaply on eBay), some brass hardware from Home Depot and four 6-way 0.250" Quick Connect tabs from Digi-Key. My gas cook-top worked quite nicely as a heat source to melt the solder paste used to attach the QC tabs. It'll be held against the firewall with a 1/4-20 brass bolt, and the engine-side ground strap lug will be pinched between two brass flat washers, secured with an internal tooth stainless lock washer and two brass nuts.

    IMG_1633.jpg IMG_1641.jpg

    Next, I built a 7-ft extension harness for the magnetometer. This will extend the magnetometer's pigtail from inside the wing to just below the seatback, where another harness will take it behind the panel. The wires inside match the Dynon color scheme and twist callouts, and the outer jacket is 1/4" flame retardant expandable sleeve (Techflex Clean Cut FR), held at each end with adhesive-lined heat shrink tube.

    IMG_1636.jpg

    If anyone has any interest, I'd be happy to post a tutorial on building harness cables, showing the necessary tools, parts and techniques. I know electrical wiring is a bugaboo for many builders...

    Finally, I designed and built a wig-wag controller for my landing and taxi lights. Since my 1995 Hoerner wingtips have no provision for landing lights, I'm planning to use off-road pod lights, mounted at each wing strut attach bracket. The controller and panel switch-ology will allow a choice of taxi light only, taxi+landing, or one of two different programmable wig-wag flash patterns.

    IMG_1638.jpg

    That's it for the last six weeks or so, I'm afraid. Sadly, it's not going to get better for awhile, as I have a big training event coming up at work and I need to get a lot of studying done. It'll probably be into October before I can dedicate much time to the Kitfox again.
    Eric Page
    Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
    Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

  8. #378
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    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    Just remember, the longer it takes to get back to working on it, the easier it is to put it off till "later". That's how kits get to be 25 years old and still aren't finished. Do the best you can though of course. JImChuk

  9. #379
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    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    You're such a nerd. So you're skipping the part where everyone has to call you Captain Eric from now on?

    I'm raising my hand as someone who would really like to see a tutorial on making wire harnesses. I'm rapidly coming up on that point and could use any help possible. I recently obtained some heat shrink tube which runs through my label maker. I felt like the smartest guy in the room (well, until someone else walked in).

    As you know I have Hoerner tips also. I'm with you on not attempting to chop them to add provisions for landing lights, and I'm also with you on adapting off road lights for the task.

    For a while now I have intended to use the same exact LED off road lights I have on my motorcycle. They are from Cyclops in Kent, WA. The name likely comes from an early product they produced which was a headlamp used my dirt bike racers for the extended Baja races.

    The lights on my bike are the Long Range Optimus LED lights. I run one spot and one "wide beam" light, a combination which they recommend. They are solidly built and work fantastic. I've dropped my motorcycle on them several times. I'm even lazier than you apparently because I'm going to mount mine on the tubing of my main gear. My plan is to use some Cyclops bar mounts for the job.
    Kitfox 5 (under construction)
    Commercial SE/ME, CFII

  10. #380
    Senior Member Eric Page's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Barn Find Build

    Quote Originally Posted by avidflyer View Post
    Just remember, the longer it takes to get back to working on it, the easier it is to put it off till "later". That's how kits get to be 25 years old and still aren't finished.
    Indeed. I’m still determined to finish this thing. I hate wasting large sums of money!

    Quote Originally Posted by alexM View Post
    So you're skipping the part where everyone has to call you Captain Eric from now on?
    Once I pass upgrade we can talk about appropriate forms of address.

    I'm raising my hand as someone who would really like to see a tutorial on making wire harnesses. I'm rapidly coming up on that point and could use any help possible. I recently obtained some heat shrink tube which runs through my label maker.
    OK, I’ll see about getting that done. It may take a little while…

    I got some of that labeler heat shrink too, and found that even the 1/2” tube (the largest my labeler will take) isn’t big enough to go over a Dynon harness with four twisted pairs. It’ll work great for individual wires or smaller harnesses, but I’ll have to stick with labeling the D-Sub connectors for the Dynon harnesses.

    The lights on my bike are the Long Range Optimus LED lights. I run one spot and one "wide beam" light, a combination which they recommend. […] My plan is to use some Cyclops bar mounts for the job.
    Those look very nice. Their Aurora 2” 19-watt light looks like a good option too, with a bit less drag, but it’s only available with a 15° beam. Being a cheap pilot, I was considering the Rigid Industries D-Series Pro 3” LED lights (one spot and one flood).

    Thanks for the tip on those tube mounts. They’d work nicely on the wing struts too.
    Eric Page
    Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
    Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

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