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Thread: One Lucky Fox

  1. #31

    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    98

    Default Re: One Lucky Fox

    Huh. Mine was silver colored and with the first tap on the tool it started to deform/spread the end. I ended up drilling it out and replacing it with one of these, which went right in:

    IMG_7080.jpg

  2. #32

    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    98

    Default Re: One Lucky Fox

    I got the adjustable pedal kit and these are the 1/16" roll (aka tension) pins that came with it. In the picture I included, and used, the anodize black pins I bought from Amazon:

    IMG_7085.jpg

  3. #33

    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    98

    Default Re: One Lucky Fox

    Another pretty good day. Working on installing the center console.

    Pro tip: An 8" benchtop drill press is an excellent investment. ~$80 from a big box home goods store. So far I've used mine for drilling, filing bearings, and sanding. Today I used it to countersink. I set the depth gauge, used a #1 bit, and it'll countersink the 1/8x1/4 flush pop rivet holes all day long:

    IMG_7087.jpg

  4. #34

    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    98

    Default Re: One Lucky Fox

    Ah, the dreaded rudder pedal binding/freeness issue everyone has had. Read these threads:

    https://teamkitfox.com/Forums/thread...Pedal-question
    https://teamkitfox.com/Forums/thread...pedal-freeness

    The brake pedals are free (after sanding on the drill press), the center T's are free. The outer T's that rotate on the black bearings... not so much. I'm taking the black bearings out, pulling them on the drill press and sanding them down a few mil.

  5. #35

    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    98

    Default Re: One Lucky Fox

    Quote Originally Posted by yocum137 View Post
    Control sticks are assembled and I just installed them, but dang! the control in pitch is really tight after I torqued to the recommended 20-25 in-lbs (2 ft-lbs). Is it ok to back this off to get free movement?

    The block deformed so much it was pinching the column. I backed off 4 turns before it freed up enough that I was satisfied, and I've still got 1 thread showing past the nut so it meets the minimum, so sayeth AC 43.13 Chapter 7, page 11, section 7.63(f) (After the nut has been tightened, makesure the bolt or stud has at least one threadshowing past the nut.) but is this good enough?
    I stopped by Homedale the Friday before everyone headed to Oshkosh and told Brandon and Heather about my control stick torque block solution - sleeve the AN3 bolt in a 4130 round 0.065" thick tube. Brandon's eyes went glassy and said, "Ooooooh, I like that!"

    Here's the tubing I bought: https://www.mcmaster.com/89955K539/

    Below is what it looks like. The proper torque is easy to achieve and the nylon block doesn't deform and pinch, i.e., no sanding nylon! Super easy solution!

    IMG_7328.jpg

  6. #36
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Steilacoom, WA
    Posts
    729

    Default Re: One Lucky Fox

    Brilliant. Great idea.
    Kitfox 5 (under construction)
    Commercial SE/ME, CFII

  7. #37

    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    98

    Default Re: One Lucky Fox

    Well, all the mechanicals are done on the fuselage so I hung it from the ceiling joists and started reading up on the STi wing installation. Guess I need to pull the fuse back down sooner rather than later. Ah well.

    In other news, I'm an idiot. I laid one of the tanks in the wing hole last week just to see what's what. Today, not thinking, I turned the rotisserie and BANG! the tank fell out. So, so stupid. I'm using engine stands and it landed right on one of the metal supports, dinged the fiberglass. I'm open to suggestions on how to fix this:

    - Proseal from ACS?
    - Someone used this stuff: https://www.hirschauto.com/ALCOHOL-R...oductinfo/GTS/ ?
    - Lay up another layer or 2 of fiberglass over the ding?


    IMG_7478.jpg

    Thanks,
    Dan
    Building N137DF
    STi, Rotax 915is, Airmaster

  8. #38
    Senior Member rv9ralph's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Greenleaf, ID
    Posts
    618

    Default Re: One Lucky Fox

    I would contact Brandon at the KF factory to find out what resin he uses to ensure compatibility and resistance to alcohol in fuel. Then, sand a shallow scarf around the damage and start a build up of several layers starting with small size patch and enlarging the sizes of the patches by a half inch beyond the previous patch.

    Ralph

  9. #39

    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    98

    Default Re: One Lucky Fox

    Quote Originally Posted by rv9ralph View Post
    I would contact Brandon at the KF factory to find out what resin he uses to ensure compatibility and resistance to alcohol in fuel. Then, sand a shallow scarf around the damage and start a build up of several layers starting with small size patch and enlarging the sizes of the patches by a half inch beyond the previous patch.

    Ralph
    Thanks Ralph - Yeah, I sent Brandon an email already.

    The Proseal isn't recommended on fiberglass, afaict. I'm looking at these 2 epoxies while I wait for Brandon's reply:

    - EZpoxy at ACS: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ickkey=8187194
    - MAX GRE: https://theepoxyexperts.com/shop/adh...-carbon-fiber/

    Dan
    Building N137DF
    STi, Rotax 915is, Airmaster

  10. #40

    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    98

    Default Re: One Lucky Fox

    I'm inspecting rib squareness on ribs #1, 3, 5, 7, and 9 - these are the ribs that the flaperon hinges attach to - and they're not quite square. Just under 1/32", but still. What'd y'all do? Place a shim under one side of the hinges to get them square to the flaperon?

    IMG_7484.jpg
    Building N137DF
    STi, Rotax 915is, Airmaster

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