Huh. Mine was silver colored and with the first tap on the tool it started to deform/spread the end. I ended up drilling it out and replacing it with one of these, which went right in:
IMG_7080.jpg
Huh. Mine was silver colored and with the first tap on the tool it started to deform/spread the end. I ended up drilling it out and replacing it with one of these, which went right in:
IMG_7080.jpg
I got the adjustable pedal kit and these are the 1/16" roll (aka tension) pins that came with it. In the picture I included, and used, the anodize black pins I bought from Amazon:
IMG_7085.jpg
Another pretty good day. Working on installing the center console.
Pro tip: An 8" benchtop drill press is an excellent investment. ~$80 from a big box home goods store. So far I've used mine for drilling, filing bearings, and sanding. Today I used it to countersink. I set the depth gauge, used a #1 bit, and it'll countersink the 1/8x1/4 flush pop rivet holes all day long:
IMG_7087.jpg
Ah, the dreaded rudder pedal binding/freeness issue everyone has had. Read these threads:
https://teamkitfox.com/Forums/thread...Pedal-question
https://teamkitfox.com/Forums/thread...pedal-freeness
The brake pedals are free (after sanding on the drill press), the center T's are free. The outer T's that rotate on the black bearings... not so much. I'm taking the black bearings out, pulling them on the drill press and sanding them down a few mil.
I stopped by Homedale the Friday before everyone headed to Oshkosh and told Brandon and Heather about my control stick torque block solution - sleeve the AN3 bolt in a 4130 round 0.065" thick tube. Brandon's eyes went glassy and said, "Ooooooh, I like that!"
Here's the tubing I bought: https://www.mcmaster.com/89955K539/
Below is what it looks like. The proper torque is easy to achieve and the nylon block doesn't deform and pinch, i.e., no sanding nylon! Super easy solution!
IMG_7328.jpg
Brilliant. Great idea.
Kitfox 5 (under construction)
Commercial SE/ME, CFII
Well, all the mechanicals are done on the fuselage so I hung it from the ceiling joists and started reading up on the STi wing installation. Guess I need to pull the fuse back down sooner rather than later. Ah well.
In other news, I'm an idiot. I laid one of the tanks in the wing hole last week just to see what's what. Today, not thinking, I turned the rotisserie and BANG! the tank fell out. So, so stupid. I'm using engine stands and it landed right on one of the metal supports, dinged the fiberglass. I'm open to suggestions on how to fix this:
- Proseal from ACS?
- Someone used this stuff: https://www.hirschauto.com/ALCOHOL-R...oductinfo/GTS/ ?
- Lay up another layer or 2 of fiberglass over the ding?
IMG_7478.jpg
Thanks,
Dan
Building N137DF
STi, Rotax 915is, Airmaster
I would contact Brandon at the KF factory to find out what resin he uses to ensure compatibility and resistance to alcohol in fuel. Then, sand a shallow scarf around the damage and start a build up of several layers starting with small size patch and enlarging the sizes of the patches by a half inch beyond the previous patch.
Ralph
Thanks Ralph - Yeah, I sent Brandon an email already.
The Proseal isn't recommended on fiberglass, afaict. I'm looking at these 2 epoxies while I wait for Brandon's reply:
- EZpoxy at ACS: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ickkey=8187194
- MAX GRE: https://theepoxyexperts.com/shop/adh...-carbon-fiber/
Dan
Building N137DF
STi, Rotax 915is, Airmaster
I'm inspecting rib squareness on ribs #1, 3, 5, 7, and 9 - these are the ribs that the flaperon hinges attach to - and they're not quite square. Just under 1/32", but still. What'd y'all do? Place a shim under one side of the hinges to get them square to the flaperon?
IMG_7484.jpg
Building N137DF
STi, Rotax 915is, Airmaster