Floorboards and Center Console.

[Pushboy]

I’ve been working on the floorboards and center console and sides.

I have seen that some people install the lip of the console sides under the floor, and some install them like the manual indicates on top of the floor.

Is this just a personal preference thing, or is there an advantage of one way over the other?

Dave.


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[Redline]

We went over the floorboard so the console sides could be removed without removing the floor. Makes inspection of the items in the console much easier (fuel lines, rudder cables, etc).

[Dave S]

I believe the build manual shows the console sides on top of the floorboards.

IMHO - the factory manual configuration makes servicing/inspection easier. After flying and inspecting our plane for a few years now - I am in favor of engineering in favor of serviceability.

Your mileage may vary. Your call.

[jiott]

I'm with Dave and Redline, servicing the console which has a lot more "stuff" in it than under the floorboards is much easier with the side flanges on top. The carpet covers it all up so cosmetics is not an issue.

[Pushboy]

Thanks for the replies. Good points about the service inspection aspect. I think I’ll go with ease of service— however….

My floorboards are not 100% flat— in fact because they are mirror images - one side bows up slightly and the other side bows down. This means there are small gaps under the flange of the console sides when placed on top of the floorboards. This is especially true as that flange is only held with 3 screws.

Any tips on this?

Dave.


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[Dave S]

Dave,

I think the floorboard uneveness is a matter of fit and finish. Adjustments can be made by using spacers (like washers) under the low parts of the floorboard where the screws go in. The original pan head screws may be need to be replaced with a slightly longer screw where there are spacers if that is necessary.

If you are indicating the floorboards are warped, that may require new materials that are not warped.

[jiott]

If you haven't varnished your floorboards yet, a lot of bow can be taken out by moistening the concave side with water. The wet side will expand that layer of plywood and pull it up. This works quite well on warped ribs and false ribs. It may take a couple of sessions of wetting and clamping it flat while it dries.

[Pushboy]

I haven’t varnished them yet— I’ll give that a try and see how it goes.

Thanks

Dave.


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[rv9ralph]

Also, as to the unevenness of the mounting tabs for the floorboards. Make spacers from scrap wood to make spacers, bond to the bottom of the floorboards before varnishing.

[Pushboy]

Hi Ralph — yep… already done. I used some scrap Baltic birch ply I had in the shop. The thickness needed to be about 3mm, which is just slight thicker than the stiffener material provided in the kit. I found on my kit the only tabs that needed shims are the aft two of the mid panel on both pilot and passenger side. I’ll see if I can snap a photo next time I’m working on it.

Dave.


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