STI Farm Fox Build Log

[jrevens]

Of course there were, Dustin. I was referring to Kitfoxes, and those on this forum, when I said I was ONE of the first, as I've commented before. I bought my Oratex stuff and started early in 2014. For the record, I've never said that what you've done is wrong - just different from what was told to me when I started, and if I've come across that way I apologize. Recommendations from Lars have changed about several things over the years since I started - regarding application of additional glue, or not, on the fabric surface beneath finish tapes, rib lacing was highly encouraged, etc. I'm not certain that all of the recommendations from Lars jive completely with the guys in Germany, but that's just a guess based on past history and conversations I have had with the company... could be wrong. I was just trying to present a little history and what the prevailing "wisdom" was when I started using it... direct from Lars, and the owner of the company from Germany who I spoke with at Oshkosh. I felt the Poly-Fiber manual was helpful in several ways, but of course they are two different animals, and anyone smart enough to build an airplane can probably figure that out pretty quickly. Never did I confuse the two.

[Kitfox Pilot]

Hopefully it this side up from now on!

[yocum137]

Very nice! I'm jealous! I'll be there soon enough, I suppose.

[Kitfox Pilot]

I've got the gmu 11 and wingtip lights in one wingtip. Can these share power and ground wires or do I need to run power and ground to each? lights are 2amp, gmu 11 is .5 amp. I assumed the gmu 11 needed separate power but thought I'd ask. I can't find in the garmin book anything about it. thanks

[PapuaPilot]

You need to keep them separate. The GMU-11 should get power through its own 2 amp circuit breaker. The problem could be that you get interference/noise from the lights.

I don't know if I have the current revision of the manual, but here is a picture of the wiring diagram. Make sure you are using the most current version.

Screen Shot 2021-03-29 at 9.27.21 AM.png

[Kitfox Pilot]

Thank you very much!

[Kitfox Pilot]

I bought these 20 amp switches to use on my panel and they were advertised 3/4'' hole.
I was ready to mount some today and I drilled a 3/4'' test hole and it wouldn't fit, 13/16'' is what they measure.
Is this unusual or normal mounting hole? I guess I'm just lucky..
My rotabroach hole cutters go up to 3/4'' and the next step is 44dollars to get to the 13/16 because the pilot hole is bigger and you have to buy the pilot too.
So if anybody knows for sure where to get 3/4 round switches I would appreciate the listing.
I'm not sure is a 13/16 drill bit will up size the holes acceptably. Any ideas welcome. Thanks


I know I should just order the tool.....

[Delta Whisky]

Unibit #4 might do the 13/16" trick for you if you can't find switches the desired size.

[Kitfox Pilot]

I've never used step drills do they drill better than large drill bits? The blair rotabroach you told me about do the cleanest holes I've seen.

[Delta Whisky]

In this application I'd sure use one if smaller switches aren't available. We are talking about your favorite instrument panel so I'd practice on a scrap piece. The only problem I've had is accidentally moving the center of the hole as the bit goes thru each step getting to the final size. If it is critical I center with a smaller size on the drill press table and clamp in place before final drilling. You only have to move one step so it shouldn't be an issue but a little work in a scrap piece will tell you everything.