109JB's Kitfox IV rebuild

[109JB]

Working on the panel now doing a test fit of components. I had the panel laser cut by sendcutsend.com. The harness for the G5 and autopilot components is completed except for final install and hookup to power. Harness for the intercom and com radio is also complete as I am using the old harness from before disassembly because it is in good condition and well made. That saves some time. On the left side of the panel is the G5 efis, a digital tachometer, a display for a home-brew engine monitor, and a tablet. Behind the tablet is a hole for a glove compartment. On the right side of the panel is the radio stack with transponder, com, and autopilot controller. Above those is the trim indicator and the intercom. Far right is a backup airspeed indicator, another display for whatever, the hobbs and the ELT panel. Switches across the bottom. I still have to fabricate a tablet mount , then pull it apart and put the matte black vinyl overlay on it. Even this simple of a panel is a lot of work and it ain't done yet.

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[109JB]

I did some more work on the panel tonight. It has been overlaid with matte black 3m vinyl and is getting populated. The white in the middle is the glove compartment that will reside behind the tablet. Still have to mount a few things including the tablet mount but it is getting there. Also waiting for the AC switches for the ignition. For the switch labels I cheaped out and printed vinyl labels on my printer. Not perfect but pretty darn good and really easy.

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[109JB]

Took the last couple weeks building off to go get this:

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[jrevens]

I’m interested to see how it turns out for you, John. I saw a very nice looking latex paint job on an airplane once. Maybe you’ve already commented on this, but how does latex house paint hold up to fuel?

[109JB]

My Understanding is that it holds up pretty well as long as any spills are wiped up promptly. I gathered this information from a few sources. It seems that nowadays the model airplane crowd is also using latex paint on large size models powered by gasoline engines. I used to be into RC airplanes pretty heavily about an eon ago, but never used latex. The consensus there is that latex is gasoline proof except for the possibility of staining if gas is left on the painted surface. This is also what I have gathered from research about latex on full size airplanes too.

On my Sonerai it was covered with polyfiber and topcoated with polytone. I found that with that airplane and also my Yellow Kitfox I sold last year that the polytone stains horribly. Both of those airplanes had what stains from bird droppings that I could not get out. The Yellow Kitfox also had gas stains due to bad gaskets on the fuel caps. The Sonerai, I wound up cleaning and then scuffing with scotchbrite, then putting an additional topcoat of gloss white latex. It came out great and has not stained. After painting with the latex, my mother passed and the airplane wound up in the hangar for another couple years and got covered with dirt, grime, and bird droppings again. When I finally brought it home to get flying again last year, I simply washed it with a hose and mild detergent and it looks as good as the day I sprayed it on. I will say though that where the latex is on the Sonerai it does not get fuel on it, but the bottom does get some oil and exhaust smut and that has cleaned up fine.

[109JB]

BTW, the first cross-coat got sanded this evening, fixed a couple spots where I didn't get the pinked edges locked down, and then put on the second cross-coat. The really nice thing so far is the ease of this process. The primer coats all go on with a cheap foam brush unlike polyfiber where everything is sprayed. Only the final color coats are sprayed with this. Also the primer sands easily with 320 grit dry paper. The primer is thinned with water enough that it flows out very nicely and only requires a very light sanding. I think I have a method worked out that will yield nice results. Brush on the thinned primer and once getting about 1/2 of a fuselage side done, go back and "tip" it with a pretty dry foam brush. From there it flows out great. Also dries fairly fast. I was able to sand about 30 minutes after finishing brushing and by the time I got to the last part that was painted it was ready. I'm hoping I'll get all the primer on before saturday and then get ready to spray.

[jrevens]

My Understanding is that it holds up pretty well as long as any spills are wiped up promptly. I gathered this information from a few sources. It seems that nowadays the model airplane crowd is also using latex paint on large size models powered by gasoline engines. I used to be into RC airplanes pretty heavily about an eon ago, but never used latex. The consensus there is that latex is gasoline proof except for the possibility of staining if gas is left on the painted surface. This is also what I have gathered from research about latex on full size airplanes too.

On my Sonerai it was covered with polyfiber and topcoated with polytone. I found that with that airplane and also my Yellow Kitfox I sold last year that the polytone stains horribly. Both of those airplanes had what stains from bird droppings that I could not get out. The Yellow Kitfox also had gas stains due to bad gaskets on the fuel caps. The Sonerai, I wound up cleaning and then scuffing with scotchbrite, then putting an additional topcoat of gloss white latex. It came out great and has not stained. After painting with the latex, my mother passed and the airplane wound up in the hangar for another couple years and got covered with dirt, grime, and bird droppings again. When I finally brought it home to get flying again last year, I simply washed it with a hose and mild detergent and it looks as good as the day I sprayed it on. I will say though that where the latex is on the Sonerai it does not get fuel on it, but the bottom does get some oil and exhaust smut and that has cleaned up fine.

Oratex will also stain, as some of us have found out. I think that a polyurethane paint is probably one of the few types that are very resistant to fuel and most other things. The PPG Durathane that I used on my first homebuilt was extremely "durable" and it really looked just as good after 28 years (and I expect it still does) as it did when I applied it. The latex intrigues me... I think I'd try it if I ever build again. Do you think that it is going to be heavier than the typical Poly-Tone job, for instance?

[109JB]

Oratex will also stain, as some of us have found out. I think that a polyurethane paint is probably one of the few types that are very resistant to fuel and most other things. The PPG Durathane that I used on my first homebuilt was extremely "durable" and it really looked just as good after 28 years (and I expect it still does) as it did when I applied it. The latex intrigues me... I think I'd try it if I ever build again. Do you think that it is going to be heavier than the typical Poly-Tone job, for instance?

I will certainly find out about the weight. I have a 1 square foot piece of the fabric that I cut off of this airplane and saved when I started the rebuild that is obviously Polyfiber with polytone topcoat. I also have a test panel with the latex that is done through primer and just needs topcoat. Once I spray topcoat I'll cut a 1 square foot piece of the test panel and weigh them both. I can say though that the paint when thinned covers the fabric very thin but is doing a good job. I don't even think I have used a quart of paint and have done 2 cross coats on the fuselage. Just judging by how it is filling the weave so far I think I will probably need about 2 or 3 more cross coats before putting color on, so primer will be only around 1/2 gallon on the fuselage.

According to the information at http://wienerdogaero.com test panels that he has done show that the latex comes out about the same weight as the Polyfiber.

Here are the benefits I'm seeing so far with the latex.

1. Cost. It doesn't get any less expensive than this.
2. Non-toxic. Huge benefit here.
3. Everything is brushed except color coats. This one is a somewhat minimal consideration but I don't have to hang plastic in the shop for as long.
4. I can brush paint the jambs and a few internal spots where fabric will show.
5. Looks. I was very pleased with even as-sprayed latex finish on my Sonerai, and the results Malcolm at wienerdogaero gets by buffing look amazing.

[Birdseyeview]

Here's pictures of my paint job as requested. These were taken this last fall. I still have the protective plastic film on the windscreen and doors. The paint scheme is a knock off of a classic design that you might recognize. The same pattern is on the wheel pants as well but I didn't use latex on the wheel pants.

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[109JB]

Here's pictures of my paint job as requested. These were taken this last fall. I still have the protective plastic film on the windscreen and doors. The paint scheme is a knock off of a classic design that you might recognize. The same pattern is on the wheel pants as well but I didn't use latex on the wheel pants.

IMG_8027.jpgIMG_8025.jpg

Very nice. You said you rolled it and it came out better than polytone. Did you buff it at all like Malcolm at wienerdogaero does, or is it "as rolled"