Starting to look like a real plane! IMG_2429.jpgIMG_2427.jpgIMG_2423.jpg
Starting to look like a real plane! IMG_2429.jpgIMG_2427.jpgIMG_2423.jpg
No problem sending you my drawing and the CAD models. PM sent.
See my build log at:http://www.mykitlog.com/lowandslow/
I experienced substantial vibration on my brake lines where they enter the fuselage and pass over a piece of the frame and needed to keep this from happening again. The lines needed to be attached to the frame but the under side of the fabric would wear through against anything wrapped around the frame like a zip tie. I decided to use waxed lacing cord, but needed to have a a cushion on the top of the stringer that would stay put.
This was accomplished by cutting a piece of hose in half and drilling two holes for the lacing cord to pass through and hold it exactly in place while providing cushion and some give. The brake lines exit the bottom of the fuselage through a seaplane grommet and right into the Grove gear.
Bob Cunningham
Kitfox S7brakeline4.jpgbrakeline1.jpgbrakeline2.jpgbrakeline3.jpg
Hi Bob,
Glad you caught the chafing before it cut through the nylaflo.
One of the functions of the grove gear is the springing action on landing or takeoff which results in a large vertical motion near the center of the fuselage - right where we can't see it happening when it is happening. The gear bar/structure moves up and down quite a lot at the midpoint of the center section, and anything attached at the middle will likewise move a lot. It appears that your fabric penetration is quite close to the center of the fuselage which would explain a whole lot of motion.
I have no idea what the current build manual says about locating the penertration of the skin; and, I certainly don't recall from long ago what my build manual said.
A good strategy is to locate the fabric penetration as close to the fore/aft centerline of each gear hinge by the port and starboard side of the fuselage bottom. That way the up and down motion on will be almost nothing.
I did a fabric penetration in front of each gear hinge at the centerline ( on a trigear), then pointed the nylaflo towards the fitting a bit inboard on the gear spring. Used red RTV to seal and hold the nylaflo at the penetration; and, the original installation is still unmolested since the build completion in 2008.
Dave S
Kitfox 7 Trigear (Flying since 2009)
912ULS Warp Drive
St Paul, MN
You might also consider steel braided brake lines. I purchased what I needed to make up brake lines with steel braded after one of my nyloflo lines broke in two. Fortunately that happened on the ground.
EAA, AOPA
KF5 (N49FK & N36KJ)
Phoenix, AZ
I had a VERY productive weekend, FINALLY! I have the new gear and tires installed. I cleaned up a bit of wiring. I re-ran the fuel lines, for the FOURTH time! Oh, and I hung the engine on her. the RedRiver Fox is getting close!
Check out the video log. https://www.youtube.com/@ScottInTheClouds
From your YouTube video, it looks like the two lower engine mounts with the rubber isolators are almost touching the exhaust muffler. Seems like that is way too close and will quickly harden and crack the rubber.
Jim Ott
Portland, OR
Kitfox SS7 flying
Rotax 912ULS
Picked up 2 Super Sport kits!
crates.jpg
Ordered late Feb 2021.
Unpacking party and pizza at my house tonight! ;-)
Mike Davis
Fairbanks, AK
Kitfox Series 7 SS (received kit on 18 April 2023) N967MD reserved
Rotax 916iS received, still waiting on MTV-6-R propeller
Build log - https://n967md.dcsol.com
Murphy Moose #195 (sold)
1968 C150H still flying regularly
Quicksilver MX built and registered as experimental (destroyed in wind storm)