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Thread: Fitting Cowling

  1. #21
    Senior Member Cherrybark's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fitting Cowling

    With all of this information, I can't stand looking at the mess my rivets are in. I'll get back on the phone and see if someone local has a hand took with dimpling dies.
    Carl Strange
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X

  2. #22

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    Default Re: Fitting Cowling

    I can look but Iam the opposite side DFW from you.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  3. #23
    Senior Member jrevens's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fitting Cowling

    You can install your Camlocs and nut plates with 3/32" pulled rivets also. Additionally, if you dimple all of the material that a Camloc or nut plate are installed on, you have to have countersunk or dimpled mounting ears on them.
    John Evens
    Arvada, CO
    Kitfox SS7 N27JE
    EAA Lifetime
    Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime

  4. #24
    Senior Member rv9ralph's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fitting Cowling

    I have to comment on using vice grip pliers for squeezing rivets... don’t do it. Even if you grind the jaws to be flat and parallel, they do not move parallel. If you don’t have proper rivet tools to set a 3/32 solid rivet, get a pair of Knipix pliers. The jaws are smooth, parallel and move parallel. EAA hints for home builders just did a video on this versatile tool, you should have a pair in your toolbox.

    Ralph

  5. #25
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fitting Cowling

    Nice Ralph, Thanks
    Eddie Forward
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Garmin G3X

  6. #26
    Senior Member Cherrybark's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fitting Cowling

    Thanks for mentioning that tool Ralph. I have two or three pieces of equipment with large nuts and hate using channel locks. These will work great. I almost expected the EAA guy to squeeze a small, solid rivet in his demo.
    Carl Strange
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X

  7. #27
    Senior Member Flybyjim's Avatar
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    Marysville, Pa.
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    Default Re: Fitting Cowling

    I was able to get much of the cowl top finished today and I am much happier with this result. The last cam-locks on the side are not in place, the same with the top cam-locks, perhaps tomorrow. There will still need to be some sanding and super-fill work to get the cowl ready for painting. I have yet to decide if I am going to rivet the boot cowl in place or use nut plates.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #28
    Senior Member
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    Mapleton,UT
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    Default Re: Fitting Cowling

    I just used some aluminum rivets to attach the boot cowl as they take about 2 seconds to drill out if I need to remove.
    Dustin Dickerson

    Building 7ss STI x 2
    Oratex
    29" shock monster
    EP912STI 155hp
    Garmin
    N33TF......FLYING!
    N53TF......FLYING!

  9. #29
    Senior Member rv9ralph's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fitting Cowling

    I suggest nut plates. Reasons... easier to remove to work on behind panel items and, rivets into composite have a tendency to loosen (the composite tends to migrate away from the pressure of the rivet with time). Resulting in loose rivets and enlarged holes that need bigger rivets to hold.
    Ralph

  10. #30
    Senior Member jrevens's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fitting Cowling

    I used SS machine screws & AN 365 nuts w/ washers on the rear edges of the boot cowl - those nuts are accessible & easily reached inside the airplane while using a screwdriver outside. I used machine screws & Tinnerman locking clip-nuts on the 2 forward attach points on each side.

    IMG_2184.jpg
    John Evens
    Arvada, CO
    Kitfox SS7 N27JE
    EAA Lifetime
    Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime

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