I believe it was Josh Esser.
I believe it was Josh Esser.
John Evens
Arvada, CO
Kitfox SS7 N27JE
EAA Lifetime
Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime
Total newbie here regarding Kitfoxes but I did considerable powdercoat work when I was working on my A&P at the community college. We had some very nice equipment as far as ovens and cleaning equipment. I did the landing gear legs and engine mount for my Mooney and found that, like your mount tabs, there were places where the coverage became very thin at the inside of tight angles on the nose gear truss and the pads for the landing gear pucks. Doing some research I was told that this is a problem because of the electric charge that draws the powder onto the part. The field gets distorted at those edges and junctions so the powder doesn't coat so well. One source said you could brush the powder onto those areas to get better coverage but I have not had a chance to try that. I hear that Van's is having some instances of rust under the powdercoat on their kits. I think I'm pretty solidly in the strip it and paint it with a good etch primer for the base before color.
That makes sence. Even with traditional painting though, it seems paint sicks away from sharp edges.
I visited my instructor who is an a&p while he was stripping a 182 last week. I brought a sample piece (the model 5 antenna mount I wont be using) and he painted on some aircraft remover. About half hour later when I got home, a flathead screwdriver could peel off 90% of the powdercoat to the metal. If it was still wet, maybe even more. When the stripper dries, it seems the powdercoat hardens again.
He also gave me the number to a blasting company that has done a cub before, so I will call them and get opinions on whether they can blast it all in one go, or if it will be beneficial to chemical strip, then bring g it in for blasting.
My neighbor at the airport who just finished the paint phase of his beautiful cub has graciously agreed to let me use his booth and fuselage rotisserie. Gotta love aviation friends...
Building a Kitfox V Outback in NE Ohio
A few tips on using paint stripper... After applying the paint stripper, cover the area with cling wrap (Saran Wrap, plastic food wrap, etc.) This will keep the area wetted to let the stripper work longer.
DO NOT use a metal blade (screw driver, metal putty knife) to scrape the softened paint/powder coat. Use wood or plastic putty knife to scrape the softened paint.
Rinse the surfaces real well, blow dry with compressed air using proper safety protection.
Ralph
What about wire brushes? Should I go brass for those? If I do chem strip, I assume I'll need somthing like that for the weld clusters.
Building a Kitfox V Outback in NE Ohio
If you are working on the 4130 chrome/moly, you can use a steel brush, even mechanically assisted (a steel brush wheel on pneumatic or drill motor). Brass should be used if working on aluminum.
The main concern is that you don't use anything so aggressive that it removes metal.
Ralph
One more option for mechanical removal. 3M Roloc bristle disk.
here are some images...
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Ralph
I've got a sample of this coming to try out. They only charge for shipping and have been very prompt with communications.
I actually got another remover sample from them today, but then I saw that it had formic acid which can affect high strength steels and he confirmed that the 15-33r would be safer for this application.
Building a Kitfox V Outback in NE Ohio