Sorry I don’t do Facebook, but he is the one who lives in Nampa, ID from Boise ID.
Dustin Dickerson
Building 7ss STI x 2
Oratex
29" shock monster
EP912STI 155hp
Garmin
N33TF......FLYING!
N53TF......FLYING!
I would think you would want to get as much of the old Kreem out as you could. It seems that the Caswell tank sealer has been used also with good results, it's just that I've never used it myself. Just happened to buy the KBS the first time, and when it worked, that was my go to product the second time around. JImChuk
I agree with avidflyer. I had a minor leak in my (Mod IV) tanks and while still in the wing, sloshed with Acetone and then re-Kreemed. This was about half way through my ten year 900 hours. And thinking about the history of Kitfoxes overall - 40 shipped in an average month when I ordered my first one, I would think if there were significant issues with the 2 - 3000 out there, the topic would have been much more common in all of the forums. A note regarding the replace the tanks suggestion, the new tanks - ethanol resistant - won't fit in a pre Model IV wing - incompatible airfoil.
Hello,
Thanks for these informations. This is the solution that I think to adopt but I do not have rotisseries in which I could turn the wings.
The solution is complicated. I also plan to replace the side tanks with tanks located behind the pilot's seats.
But before making this decision, I would like to evaluate the first solution.
How long does it take to turn the wings before drying the Kreemed product?
This seems important to me if the operation must be done at arm's length!
Best regards
ChrisFlyer
When I had my wing tank leak, re-sloshing seemed the simplest solution – then put four more years on the airplane. To help with the project, I made a gimballed stand that would hold the outboard end of the wing in a movable fashion as I raised and rotated the inboard end of the wing in order to “hopefully” coat every surface. I couldn’t find pictures of the stand so made a drawing that illustrated what was made. The height of the stand was about mid chest as it gave a good range of movement. The Pivot was made from pipe fittings, A nipple with a flange attached to it was inserted into another flange drilled to give about an eighth inch clearance around the nipple. Then an end cap was tightened on the nipple. The end cap was ground to a roundish shape. The structural wood was modified where necessary. I found that MEK was the thinning agent used on the Kreem so used that as a preliminary cleaning and surface prep slosh.
Wing Jig For Slosh ok.jpg
I think Jim as right on this one. During my recent experimenting regarding this thread, I found my old bottle of Kreem - long expired and hard as stiff rubber. I got a couple of chunks out and put each of them in a shot glass then poured Acetone in one and MEK in the other and let them sit. The Acetone one just sat there, whereas the MEK one began to diffuse into the MEK giving it a milky color. As I recall, I might have used a gallon of MEK two quarts at a time rinsing and prepping my tank. Then thinking a bit too much - that maybe the dissolved Kreem might have penetrated and sealed the leaking areas - I added a little fuel and presto, leaks all over the place. I suppose the MEK worked as a removal agent.
Just some random thoughts of mine. Fuel tanks behind the seat will effect the CG much more then the wing tanks would. Some calculations to determine what that effect would be would probably be wise, before u start making those tanks. Also building and installing them will require a good deal of effort. It may be easier to make up some wing stands and just flush out the old Kreem and reseal the existing tanks. JImChuk