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Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Looking forward a bit in the manual to do some planning... is it advisable to do all control rigging, (elevator, rudder, and flaperons) prior to covering any surface? It seems like a lot of builds the tail is done before cover so I’m wondering if the flaps should be done before covering the wings.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
I didn't do the rigging of the flapperons until nearly last thing. I fealt that I needed the fabric in place and then the flapperon hangers fixed permanently for the rigging to be done.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
I rigged the aileron and flaps all the way to the flaperon mixer before covering. If I remember right there are angles you are able to set on the mixer. This only left connecting the vertical pushrods to the flaperons, setting neutral and checking travels when I installed the flaperons.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
I was thinking the same but I imagine a full house of clecos would be enough but I think I’ll just wait and rig the mixer only.
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Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Wing tips are trimmed and flaperon ends shaped and hysoled. My scribe lines were definitely off so I scribed my own. I fit them on the wings and positioned them until I was happy with the position then used this leather tool to scribe a line referenced to the inside edge of the cap strip. Super easy. Highly suggest picking one of these up if you’re working on your wing tips.
I did find one bubble in the fiberglass that I will need to fill with super-fill.
Oh and I dropped in the header tank.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
I went to a polyfiber course this last weekend. I feel like Im ready to cover. Really great class. That being said I haven't gotten too much done. Last night I got one wing primed and ready for the leading edge install. Ill paint the next wing when the weather improves. My first time spraying anything. It was actually kinda nice, I enjoyed it, room for improvement though for sure!
Been working on paint designs as well. I really like the Bahama Blue color. Feedback as always is welcomed. Brian, I took some inspiration from your scheme just removed the lightning bolt and followed the door jam.
Brakes and sticks are in. Control feel is nice with the added leverage, almost no appreciable friction.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
my 2 cents, I like 3 and 5.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Well, yall picked out my favorites. Still iterating a bit.
In the meantime Ive been working on finishing up my wings. One wing is primed and has the leading edge installed. Still waiting on weather for the second. Also got my GMU11 plate installed. I decided to place it in the first bay in the right wing on the inbound rib. I can reach it with the wingtips off and it should be compliant with Garmin recommendations (or as compliant as you can be in a Kitfox!). I figured placing it in the right wing would also even out the cable/tubing runs in the rear spar, with the pitot on the left wing. I plan to mount the unit but attach the connector after covering.
I also got started on my lift strut fairing. Ive decided not to go with the Al cuff. My thinking was that its kinda heavy and would still take quite a bit of superfill to look good. I was careful with the fit of the ends so when I do fill and smooth I think the weight will be minimal compared to the cuff. And I think it will look better. The only advantage I see to the cuff is that it may add some strength if someone accidentally trips/steps on the fairing! I still need to trim the trailing edge so it doesn't intrude on the fuselage fabric. I will plan to put a single rivet in the leading fairing's trailing edge to make sure it doesn't unzip.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Quote:
Originally Posted by
aviator79
I agree that you need PPE beyond respiratory protection. Full coveralls with hood, and gloves. Don't come into contact with the paint, especially when it's a mist.
However, it's not accurate that charcoal filters are ineffective against polyisocyanates. Read the article I linked to above. OSHA and NIOSH both consider Air Purifying Respirators effective against Polyisocyantes if a cartridge change schedule is used. The article even points out that charcoal cartridges actually remain effective against isocyanates for a relatively long time. OSHA's previous "supplied air only" policy was not based on the effectiveness of filters, but on the supposedly poor warning properties, i.e. by the time you smell them, you're above the exposure limit.
Again, if supplied air makes you feel comfortable, go for it. Just know that there is a lot of incorrect or outdated information about APRs and isocyanates. Choosing an APR is not taking a gamble with your life and health, if you use it correctly. Any respirator must fit correctly, be stored correctly, and be used correctly. You must perform at least a negative pressure check every time you put it on.
But there's no dispute that if you're using Poly-Tone (on fabric) and polyfiber enamel (on primed metal), then one only needs a charcoal-canister respirator, right?
And a related question -- does anyone who used Poly-Tone on the fabric just use the Poly-Tone on the metal also? With what result?
Thanks
Michael
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Quote:
Originally Posted by
JoeRuscito
I went to a polyfiber course this last weekend. I feel like Im ready to cover. Really great class. That being said I haven't gotten too much done. Last night I got one wing primed and ready for the leading edge install. Ill paint the next wing when the weather improves. My first time spraying anything. It was actually kinda nice, I enjoyed it, room for improvement though for sure!
Been working on paint designs as well. I really like the Bahama Blue color. Feedback as always is welcomed. Brian, I took some inspiration from your scheme just removed the lightning bolt and followed the door jam.
I agree, 3&7.
Joe, we probably saw each other in ATL last week; I was in the electrical/avionics class. I did the cover class 3 weeks earlier with Lynn in Oshkosh (polar vortex!) I'm a few weeks behind you in build -- my weather in middle TN's been worse than yours, and my shop's unheated.
Have you decided Poly-Tone vs polyurethane? Going to build a spray booth? And finally -- what avionics are you installing, and have you decided locations for everything (including antennas, internal/external; ELT; etc)?
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Sorry we missed each other! It would have been great to meet! Im going with Ranthane because Ive heard its easier to spray and has all the same characteristics of the aerothane. For my paint booth I've bought a carport on amazon, fully enclosed. Going to add some plastic and vent fans and call it a paint booth. Ive also purchased a hobby air system.
avionics: Im going Garmin G3X. Ive mounted the magnetometer in the right wing on the 9th rib in the last bay. Thats as far as I've gotten but Im thinking everything else will be on the fuselage including the OAT.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Quote:
Originally Posted by
FoxTrotter
But there's no dispute that if you're using Poly-Tone (on fabric) and polyfiber enamel (on primed metal), then one only needs a charcoal-canister respirator, right?
And a related question -- does anyone who used Poly-Tone on the fabric just use the Poly-Tone on the metal also? With what result?
Thanks
Michael
From what Ive been told you are correct polytone/primer>regular respirator. I can't speak to polytone on metal but Ive read it doesn't perform as well as aerothane/ranthane.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Quote:
Originally Posted by
FoxTrotter
does anyone who used Poly-Tone on the fabric just use the Poly-Tone on the metal also? With what result?
Michael
It will adhere just fine but you have to put it over a tacky coat of sealer. The Stits EP-420 Epoxy primer works fine. When it's (the EP-420) just past tacky put the Poly-Tone over it.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
I've been advised by Polyfiber to do two coats of EP-420 over both metal or fibreglass - would also apply to Carbon I suspect as well.. The first coat you apply normally and let it cure/dry. For the second coat, you apply it and whilst still tacky, apply the first coat of your final colour. Apparently doing it this way allows the final coat to cure/dry with the tacky primer. They tell me this will work in most cases, assuming good surface prep. before applying the EP-420. I've done this on my main gear springs and so far so good.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
I used Poly-Tone on the fiberglass. I am not pleased with how easily it scratches. It has yet to be flown and I am already deciding Im likely to pay for a professional shop to paint my cowls and wing tips with a more durable paint around my first annual. I used Aero Graphics for the lettering on my cowl so they are available for purchase all over again with a simple phone call. I used the primer to cure, then tacky primer method as recommended. Paint is not flaking off, which is why they recommend that method but it is just far too easy to scratch. I couldn't be happier with the poly-tone on the fabric. My invasion stripes are the only thing I put on fabric. Hey, I didn't have to buy an expensive respirator and Im still alive after use of the charcoal filltered masks. Poly tone is easy to apply. I have never painted anything before and my application came out well. I also had to repair some spots and you can't tell. I will be repairing scratches on the cowl as well as a pit that showed up after paint. I am very confident you won't be able to tell I did the touch ups. That's a plus for Poly-tone.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Thanks, Eddie. What paint gear did you use?
- Michael
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
When I painted my Series 5 many years ago, I tried the recommended spray polytone over tacky primer on hard surfaces. two problems I encountered were the procedure is a pain in the butt , because you are shooting two different paints in close succession and you either need two paints rigs or better be quick and cleaning your gun for the next coat. second , like Eddie says I found the polytone not durable on hard surfaces and I figured it would never stand the test of time. My solution was to head to the local auto paint store and they did a great job of matching my Polytone colors with their enamel (Dupont Centari was the product I used) and this is what I used on my cowl., doors ,gear etc. I can't tell the difference in color between the two paints and after 16 years , I know I did the right thing because it has held up well. I did have to flatten the sheen on the enamel a bit to match the polytone but that was easy with the flattener mixed into the enamel. Bruce N199CL
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
I bought the twin pack (larger gun and smaller detail gun) that Harbor Freight sells. Used a desicant filter in line and I used a small pressure regulator at the gun. The Poly-tone is so forgiving I might have been able to spray it from a discarded windex spray bottle. Kidding of course.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
nearly 20 year old lightly used Craftsman oiless compressor. I believe mine is a 20gal maybe 25. No problem at all with it. If you have to do large swaths many times over as when you paint a wing, some might say you need a larger compressor.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Following along as I just started two weeks ago. I am going with the G3X also. Where are your antennas going?
Thanks
Scott
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Dang Joe you really get with it when it comes to building! Love your thread.
I'm getting my paint booth together as well in a few months. I'll be using an auto
urethane with a flex agent. I have a friend who has a paint shop.
He keeps me squared away so I don't screw up to badly!
My harbor freight shooters have done a remarkable job on other projects but I
might have to upgrade to a better gun for the plane. Maybe this one -
a Devibiss Finishline 4 FLG-670. $205.00 on Amazon Any thoughts??
Attachment 21736
I'm going with a G3X as well. Looking to buy the lions share at Oshkosh this year
and take advantage of any deals or discounts they have to offer. :D
All the best on your build!
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Quote:
Originally Posted by
airlina
When I painted my Series 5 many years ago, I tried the recommended spray polytone over tacky primer on hard surfaces. two problems I encountered were the procedure is a pain...Bruce N199CL
Hmm, I'm gonna reconsider using the Polyfiber method for spraying metal and fibreglass. Too much effort goes into this without having to worry about durability all the time.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Meyer
Following along as I just started two weeks ago. I am going with the G3X also. Where are your antennas going?
Thanks
Scott
Still figuring out my antennas and really my system as a whole so far here is what I have, if anyone seems something I'm missing or has any feedback as always its appreciated.
G3X 10.6 landscape GDU (screen)
GDU install kit (screen)
EIS interface box GEA24
GEA24 connector kit
Rotax sensor kit
Magneto/hall effect
Fuel flow ft60
GTX45R transponder in/out
GPS20A ads Waas (Ive gotten mixed info on if this is needed, Garmin said no but I talked with Nikk and he referred me to the manual which states you do to be legal when using the GTX45r)
GPS20a install kit
ga56 GPS ANT or Ga-35 gps antenna
CL105 transponder ant or TED XPDR transponder ant
GTR20 remote com radio
GMA-245R remote audio panel
Ra miller 10 com ant
GA-26c internal GPS
Vertical power sport
vertical power connector kit
ACK e-04 ELT
Then down the road I may add a G5 for redundancy and possibly autopilot and a second com!
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Quote:
Originally Posted by
bbs428
Dang Joe you really get with it when it comes to building! Love your thread...
Thanks man! Trying to keep up the momentum! Thats exactly the gun I got. I also have a small gun Jim, my EAA tech, gifted to me for the small stuff. My "paint booth" arrives tomorrow. Im wondering how long it takes to build a car port?!
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
One thing about transponder antennae that I learned the hard way: Don't locate it near an autopilot servo. At least with the Dynon servos, the transponder signal will kick the servo offline. Fortunately, it was easy enough to switch the antennae between the transponder and ADS-B receiver.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Hmm. That is interesting Brian. I suppose I won't figure that problem out until several flights in when I test the auto pilot.
Regarding the GTX45R, I haven't done the research but my GTX345 has a WAAS GPS and I thought the R version was the same radio without the control panel.
I could be wrong since the GTX345 is certified and the 45R I notice is designed for the experimental/LSA market. I would certainly get the answer before I spent the $.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
I think you are correct that from a hardware standpoint they are identical (at least from what I’m told) however the firmware limits the use of the internal gps. Hence the massive price difference!
Interested as to why you went with the certified version?
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Quote:
Originally Posted by
efwd
Hmm. That is interesting Brian. I suppose I won't figure that problem out until several flights in when I test the auto pilot.
Regarding the GTX45R, I haven't done the research but my GTX345 has a WAAS GPS...
In my case, my roll servo and my transponder antenna were both mounted to the left mounting plate on the belly, so the servo was only a couple inches from the antenna. I had tested the autopilot and everything worked fine. I was doing some additional testing later, and the roll servo kept going offline. It was because I had the avionics powered, and the transponder was active. Fortunately, a Dynon forum post clued me in to what was going on. I just swapped the XPDR/ADSB antenna cables behind the panel. It may not be an issue with Garmin servos, or if you have the servo more than a few inches from antenna.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Joe,
Your list for the G3X looks good. From what I have read you will need the WAAS GPS-20A for the GTX-45 to work for ADSB out.
These are totally preference items:
I chose the panel mounted GTR-200 radio with the display and knobs. I like having the display and ability to tune, flip-flop frequencies and activate the "monitor" function without having to do it through the G3X display which can involve a lot of button pushing and take you away from other important stuff on the MFD. FYI the monitor function sort of makes it like a second radio, I use it to listen to AWOS without going off the primary frequency.
Also it looks like most of the functions of the GMA-245R are included in the new GTR-200B. You really don't need an audio panel unless you are going to have more than one COM.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Thanks Phil, I agree the GTR-200B looks great and I was looking at that option as well. Not sure if I will want a second com but I do like the idea of having a separate panel for the com. I wonder how many go with two radios and how many are happy with just one. Everything Ive flown to date has had two.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
For a VFR airplane, I don't perceive much value in a second radio, especially with modern radios that let you monitor the standby frequency, and pull frequencies direct from your map.
Just my $.02.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Thanks Brian, Also it seems with the 200b you cannot use the touch screen to adjust at all... or maybe this too is misinformation.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
The answer to why I bought the GTX 345, simple, fewer electrical parts to install and I wanted ADSB in. And, be careful, you may run out of power pins on the Sport Vertical Power. Don't let me scare you though. there seems to be plenty of ways to get around that as well. You just may need to send power to a bus and run two devices off it for example. My 912iS can't be wired through it due to large Amps needed to power the start up. So, you might end up with some circuit breaker someplace you hadn't anticipated. I have.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Hey Eddie, yea Ive been told you will need a couple breakers for the engine startup/ignition, Ill have to do a count of my planned circuits and see what I end up with.
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Set to cover! Jim came by last night and gave me to green light to cover my wings. Ill be doing some final smoothness checks and installing the magnetometer tonight, then cleaning the shop a bit before laying on the bottom fabric.
To that point the manual seems to go against "cover the top of a high wing first" concept. I know this is only for cosmetics but why is this? Also thoughts on polybrush on the capstrips, manual says yes, poly fiber no.
Here are some photos of my pitot line routing, and some of my tail wire runs. Ive been really enjoying rib lacing. Sorry for the super messy shop and quick photos, but I wanted to post them because seeing how others have done it was extraordinarily helpful to me. The runs are pretty tight so Im pretty sure I have ample roof for vibration and I dont think the lines will contact the rib cut out where I dont already have chafe protection, so I dont believe I need added tycoon tubing.
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Ive also finished my right side tail access cover. These were quite the tricky project and mine are certainly not perfect. I wish the screws were in a straighter line. One or two slipped while I was drilling with the long bit. Also, for anyone who is drilling the strips these attach to, make sure your holes are not centered on the Al. Mine are so the nut plates dont reach the holes.... Ill have to figure out a solution for this. How close should we trim edges of the cover? Should the bottom edge be tangent to the tubing or is my trimmed enough?
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I rigged my elevator and trim actuator, end stops, set my flaperon mixer angles, and flap handle push rod.
Baggage sack is in a drilled which helped me decide where to secure wire runs from the tail. Fuel sight gauges also primed and installed.
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Next update should include some covered wings!
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Looking great Joe!
Plan for more circuits than you count up. I thought I was very thorough in counting my circuits, and still ended up adding a couple to my fuse block, which fortunately had several slots to spare.
Don't get too wrapped around the axle about top/bottom first. After finish tapes and 15 layers of PolyStuff, any cosmetic difference will be completely invisible to anyone but you. If you follow the PolyFiber instructions to the letter, you really can't go wrong. You will lace your ribs, so using any kind of adhesive (PolyBrush or PolyTak) is not necessary. It probably doesn't harm anything either if you're a belt & suspenders kind of guy.
On your pitot runs: I was advised not to use zip ties anywhere that will not be accessible. It might take 20 years, but eventually they will become brittle and break. I used about a half million of them in my fuselage, but I did not use them in the wings. Of course, My nimble body can access the whole fuselage today, but in 20 years, I too will probably become brittle and break. :rolleyes: You might consider being strategic about where you use them so that you'll be able to replace them through any inspection/access covers you put in.
Covering the wings was definitely one of my favorite parts of the build. You really feel like you're building a plane at that point. Enjoy!
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
Thanks Brian. Agreed about the zip ties. I only used them where I know I will have an inspection port, right at the pitot tube. Otherwise, is there a better way to secure the tygon tubing to the Al pitot lines?
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Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build
What came with the Dynon install kit is AN flare nuts, Male AN-to Male NPT fittings, and Female NPT to push-in tube fittings.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oU...WbgrQXUpk=w600
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2p...R60Xnct6k=w600