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Re: Geek's STi Build
Thanks John. I think the transition between the wing on the STi and the SS are pretty much the same. I did think about the flex (or somewhat lack of when using PTFE) and my thought was to use the quality rubber for the area of the wing fold and then go to the PTFE. The rubber would be only in the fuselage for maybe the first foot or so to a shut off valve for the tank and then PTFE down to the header tank. So most of the line inside would be PTFE. With the exception of the barb fitting on the banjo the rest of the connections will be all AN6.
Appreciate any and all inputs. Especially any that tell me I am heading for issues that others have learned about through experience.
Gary
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Re: Geek's STi Build
I wonder about the purpose of steel braided lines on gravity feed fuel lines? They are pretty but they have to weigh quite a bit more no? My fuel lines are secured to the airframe and as John mentioned, the abrasion would be terrible.
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Re: Geek's STi Build
I think you are correct Eddie in that they are a bit heavier, especially with the AN fittings rather than just rubber hose/ hose clamp. Since there are a multitude of Kitfox out there flying around I am certain rubber hose and hose clamp works just fine. I'm just not a fan which I think comes from my motor head days of rebuilding older cars. It's hard sometimes to break away from what you have had great success with in the past. Pretty? I guess so but my real attraction to them is that they are PTFE hoses and impervious to every fuel I know of and my history with AN fittings is a solid one. My plan is to use Adel clamps to hold the hoses so they won't be abrading against the airframe at all. I am looking at more flexible hose for the wing fold and thinking along the lines of a clear Motion Pro hose. That would give me a Tygon hose that's flexible and I could visually see that there was fuel being fed to the header tank as a bonus. Guess it's still a work in progress.
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Re: Geek's STi Build
In the middle of installing rib 2 on both wings, the fuel cap fairing, stringer, and the upper/lower false ribs. I used the aluminum angle pieces as a reference for the capstrip level when setting up the ribs. Lots of shimming going on to get those levels right and thankful for a good table saw and bench belt sander. Using the sander to fine tune the false ribs is a real plus. I have done the fitting for the upper false ribs on both wings and am starting on the lower ribs now. I installed the fuel cap fairing (yes the tool box worked perfectly to weigh the fairing to the tank while the Hysol set up) and the overflow tube (finished it but didn't take a final pic). Seems like I am doing a lot of stuff but not progressing very fast. The new mantra is "It's not a race". Also saw a comment on the forum where it was noted that doing a step the first time takes much longer than doing it the second time. Man is that one right on!!
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I have reached the part where I am getting ready to install the Laker leading edge but wanted to check a few things. One of the things I have read here is that there can be some interference when sweeping the wings with the butt rib that requires some trimming. Since I had never actually swept the wings, thought that might be a good idea to do before pressing on. Also I didn't like the idea of mounting the pitot tube outboard of the wing strut. Just too exposed for my liking and people do like to walk around and look at airplanes. I planned on mounting it inboard of the wing strut. My ruler said that it was going to work but again, hadn't actually set the mast into the mount and fitted the pitot tube into the mast. So the good news is that the wings swept just fine and the pitot tube clears the wing spar by about three inches so now it's on to the leading edge work.
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Re: Geek's STi Build
Had reached the part in the instructions to install the wing leading edges but I was going on a trip for work and didn't want to start until I could focus on it without an interruption. So I started working on the extended wing tips getting the Hysol into the edge of the fences and running a fillet where the fence joins the wing tip. The nav and landing lights also needed to be installed and had decided to build doublers along the line of what Paul (Captainphx) did (post #150 of his build log). I got the nav light doublers done but had to order corner plate nuts for the landing lights before I can finish them off. Today I got to start on the leading edge. Got the pieces fitted for the left wing and tomorrow I should get to dial in the right wing. Won't Hysol them on cause I am waiting for an order of more Hysol and don't want to start and then not be able to finish.
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Re: Geek's STi Build
Looks like they fixed the not fitting wing tips of the past with the new longer design. It should flex to fit about anything as much as the fiberglass sticks out. I guess you gain some lift also?
I like the looks of them, hadn't really seen a good pic like that of them.
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Re: Geek's STi Build
I hadn't actually thought about that. I do have your You Tube vid saved where you show the issue you had with yours and how you fixed it. Figured I would look at that again when I got to that part and go that way if I needed to (you kind of get the idea that I am not shy about using other people's good ideas eh?). But now looking at the video again and my wing tips I would say that yeah they are definitely different and there's probably enough flex to get it done.
G
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Re: Geek's STi Build
Talking to Brandon he said in testing the longer wingtips do not lower the stall speed which was very surprising to me? He said in a stall and slow flight they do increase stability. I imagine they help in a climb rate also?
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Bit more done on the wing tip landing lights. Cut the holes in the wing tips for the mounts. Once you cut in through the skin you can see the tube that runs through the wing tip. The instructions say you need to trim back that tube and I'll admit I asked Brandon for some clarification just to be sure before I cut them. With the heat sink on the back of the landing light, you need to cut the tube back about 3/4" behind the back wall of the fairing. Was able to start fitting the backing plate I made to mount the light but am still waiting for the right nut plates before I can epoxy them to the fiberglass mount. Once that's done I'll be able to glue the mount into the wing tips.
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