S7 Speedster project in Belgium
Hi everyone,
First of all happy new year to all of you fellow builders!
Then let me introduce myself:
I'm Belgian, from the Flemish/Dutch speaking part (I know I live in a complex country :rolleyes:). And after a 1,5 year wait I finally received my kit at the end of November. Not only in the USA, but also in Europe Kitfox is starting to become famous again. Personally I went for a Kitfox 7 Speedster because actually it fills the gap between the ultralight(ULM) and the "certified SEP" legislation in the European market. Sadly enough we don't have the great backcountry flying like you guys have so an STI is little use in Europe. But for alot of European GA pilots the main goal is:
-to haul a reasonable load (impossible in a ultralight with the low ULM MTOW restrictions we have)
- at a cheap cost (100LL is @ 2,55€/L up here, that's roughly 10.7$/USG. Whilst UL95 is widely available at a much lower cost)
So flying a Kitfox speedster with a Rotax 912, registered as experimental seemed the way to go for me to reduce my flying bills and still have good fun at a decent speed! Next to that I simply love to build stuff, so the build part is even as exciting as flying it.
I've been reading through this forum for the last 3 years, and the great community support is for sure one of the reasons why I went for Kitfox. You're never alone!
I do already have a first question.
What are you guys thinking about the corrosion protection on the self fabricated Alu and SS parts. I know it's been discussed before for the wing spars. But for all the self fabricated brackets I don't know if I need to only alodine them or also epoxy prime them? And how about the stainless steel parts (e.g trim scissor links), altough the manual specifies it, it seems strange to epoxy prime them whilst they'll be moving parts.
Thanks for the help!
Tom
Re: S7 Speedster project in Belgium
Welcome Tom. I epoxy primed all my bare aluminum parts including spars inside and out. I did it because it seemed like a good idea with no downside (other than time) and because I might someday install floats. The SS parts did not all get primed.
Re: S7 Speedster project in Belgium
Hi Tom, Welcome.
I alodined the aluminum fabricated parts. Epoxy Primed the spars inside and out. Nothing to the trim links.
Re: S7 Speedster project in Belgium
Welcome, Tom! Stainless steel is generally very corrosion resistant and usually requires no coating or treatment to protect it.
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Re: S7 Speedster project in Belgium
Making some good process, so I started on the rudder cables. I was swaging the rudder cable bushings on the adjustable rudder handles side. But as I finished both of them I started to doubt if I didnt swage them too tight. The washer supplied sits on top of the ferrule, so I would need to grind some of the washer side to get it to fit nicely. What do you guys think?
Re: S7 Speedster project in Belgium
Given that the collar is designed to be crushed, can you put it in a press or something or just smash it down flush with the bushing?
Re: S7 Speedster project in Belgium
It does look a bit suspect, but it's hard to tell with the heat shrink on there. There are gauges to check for proper crimps. I found a helpful article here:
https://www.kitplanes.com/the-big-squeeze/
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Re: S7 Speedster project in Belgium
Another picture before the heatshrink went on. The crimping itself is OK dimension wise,but I'm concerned if the distance between the sleeve and the bushing isn't to small, causing the cable to be bent into a too tight angle. According to nicopress there should be 1 cable diameter between the bushing and the sleeve. So I'll go for the safe side and do them again. I should have enough cable.
Re: S7 Speedster project in Belgium
Tom - congrats on the kit and getting started.
As you have probably noted, the sleeve grows a bit during crimping. I experienced the same concern you have so I practiced a bit before doing the final squeeze on the "real thing" and found a drill bit that could be used as a "measuring device" to determine a good gap between the sleeve and bushing before crimping. I took notes that are on my build site (11/13/2019 - http://www.mykitlog.com/lowandslow/). I don't know how easy it is to get to that date but if you have the inclination take a look. The words that go with the pictures are: "I found that by making the first (middle) crimp in the nicopress sleeve when the bushing is held a #13 drill bit in distance from the fitting the crimp comes out just fine (see picture) assuming the 2nd crimp is the one away from the bushing and the last crimp closest to the bushing. A little experimenting showed that inserting a #25 drill bit in the "V" formed by the cable as it went into the fitting and then pulling the cable tight to press the three (nico, drill bit and bushing) tightly together before crimping worked just as well."
Hope this helps.
Re: S7 Speedster project in Belgium
You'll be happy to know that the cable is inexpensive. My first two cables had to be tossed for two different reasons.