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Re: Rudder pedal friction
I took a slightly different approach. Seemed ridiculous to have a plastic bushing turning in a tube. I drilled out the plastic part and inserted a bushing about 1/64” longer than the plastic. The plastic fits snug in the tube and the assembly rotates very smoothly around the bushing.
Attachment 21924
Re: Rudder pedal friction
I can get the end cap inner torque tube bushings in no problem. Its the thin ones between the inner and outer torque tubes that I am having a hard time with. I put some calipers on the tube and I have actually only taken .005 out. Measuring the bushing it shows I need an additional .005 to fit, so .010 total. I think I'll be ok removing .010. The sidewall is .050. Might split the difference and take some off the inner torque tube and some out of the outer tube.
I also do like that idea of the extra bushing.
Re: Rudder pedal friction
I don't really know if I am understanding you but.......
I am thinking of the bearing that is supposed to be cut across one side of it as is stated in step 10 of the that process. Any chance that is what you are speaking of?
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Re: Rudder pedal friction
Attachment 21925
I split the bearing and it's still tight. I mainly want to verify that torque tubes are the same size.
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Re: Rudder pedal friction
Attachment 21926
This is the assembly that I am working on.
Re: Rudder pedal friction
As others have stated you need to get these bushings to be as free as possible, but without extra slop. Besides getting the dimension right by sanding the bushings you also need to make sure the tubes are aligned to each other and perfectly round. I recall that my rudder tubes were slightly out of round and warped, which probably happened when the other pieces were welded on.
Re: Rudder pedal friction
Apparently welding on the tubing caused them to shrink a bit. A friend of mine has a machine shop so after some milling, stretching, sanding and fitting, I got the bushings in and all is smooth now. Thanks for the replies.