Bubble-Doors.....Riv nuts

[Shadowrider]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUxpB_PP_ao&t=231s

If you have not seen the video he does a good job explaining bubble door install.

I have been waiting to do my bubble doors and this video was great timing! Couple questions for those that have done the doors. Can you give some constructive criticism of the video, more specifically his technique? Is that how you did it or is there anything you would add? I am just getting ready to mine. Not trying to pick apart the video, did a great job, just wanting others opinions also.



Is stainless steel riv nuts the way to go or aluminum?

I see spruce only sells aluminum or brass.....keyed and not keyed?

Spruce also sells countersunk. Would those be better behind the bubble door so it sits flush?


Thanks in advance for your input!

[aviator79]

Al or stainless will both work. Technically, both are a corrosion risk, but more so for aluminum. If you don't plan on your plane staying wet for long periods, it really doesn't matter.

I did not use countersunk. They are low profile, and turned out nice and clean.

[bumsteer]

Dustin

Using keyed and countersunk would add to the build time to some degree IMHO. Using not keyed regular or countersunk with red loctite would save you time by not having to cut the keyway. I am not using bubble doors but I believe there is weatherstripping between the frame and window so regular should work fine as aviator79 states they do not stand out very far.

Rick

[Esser]

You don't need counter sink because of the 3M tape. I use STEEL rivnuts not SS or AL. I also never key any of mine and I haven't had a single rivet rotate on me. The secret? Loctite 680. Same compound you use on your elevator bushings.

[jiott]

The rivnuts shouldn't spin because you hopefully won't be tightening the screws very tight at all. Seriously, just a little more than hand tight, or you will crack the plexi. Also, I wouldn't put Loctite anywhere near the plexiglass; just the fumes will embrittle the plexi and it will crack. Since you can't tighten the screws enough to withstand vibration, and you can't use Loctite, I used a dab of Elmer's white glue on the threads and not a single one has vibrated loose in 750 hours.

[jiott]

If you use Loctite on the Rivnuts in the aluminum frame, make sure you let it completely cure before you lay the plexiglass on the frame.

[Shadowrider]

Thanks guys for all the pointers.

[efwd]

And something that stinks about my situation is, the tape does not adhere 100% of its width to the plexi. Therefore, after filing off some material from the plexi, the dust and shavings are now residing between the plexi and the 3m adhesive. Eyesore. I would try to get the 3M to adhere first to the plexi then drop the plexi down onto its frame. Not sure how that would be done successfully but I would try if I had it to do again.,

[bbs428]

I used aluminum countersunk rivnuts. Used some all purpose craft glue for insurance.
I had to shorten the rivnut just a bit to fit flush before pulling.
I will also add a dab of white glue on the door screws for retention purposes.

Turned out nice.

219952199621997

[Jez]

I used aluminum countersunk rivnuts. Used some all purpose craft glue for insurance.
I had to shorten the rivnut just a bit to fit flush before pulling.
I will also add a dab of white glue on the door screws for retention purposes.

Turned out nice.

219952199621997
did you use a special tool to squeeze the rivnuts? And what white glue ? And did you use aluminium rivnuts because the door is also aluminium?

[Av8r3400]

You absolutely need the proper tool to install the riv-nuts. This is an affordable model from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/rivet-thread-Riveter-blind-Rivnuts/dp/B00RCPVLKE/ref=asc_df_B00RCPVLKE?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80882941400092&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584482468342113&psc=1

I used aluminum riv-nuts in my door frames with a drop of red loc-tite on each insert to keep them from turning in the frame. I did put a tiny amount of low strength (purple) loc-tite on the screws to keep them in place (and to keep them from corroding) because they should not be more than finger tight.