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Hoenshell
05-21-2018, 12:54 PM
This past weekend my wife and I purchased and picked up a Kitfox IV Classic from a gentlemen not too far away from my location here outside of the Kansas City area. I’m not a mechanic; although, I purchased a Cessna 172E a couple of years ago and my A&P has helped me performed a lot of my own maintenance an upgrades over the past couple of years. I’m a network engineer by trade and although I enjoy the technical aspects, I also have gotten my hands dirty in numerous past projects working with metal, wood, plastic and fiber glass. This will be great first kitplane project since it is over half completed with fabric covered and painted. It came with a never ran Rotax 912ULS 100hp engine (purchased 1999) which I’m very excited about. This Kitfox was purchased in 1994 and so I have some updating to do. I really like the looks of the Kitfox with the smooth cowling, but I’m not as much of a fan of the round cowling and of course this project has a completed round cowling along with the firewall forward kit. The first order of business will be to contact Kitfox and order the necessary parts to change from the round to smooth cowling. My understanding it’s requires replacing the engine mount along with the upper firewall since the firewall was already shaped to the round cowling. I know it’s going to be quite a task to redo much of the work already done with the round cowling, but I’m looking forward to the challenge and I’ll be happier with the end results. I also want to change the standard landing gear out for the bush landing gear. While I’m waiting on the cowling parts to arrive I believe that I may try to change the color of the interior by painting the front of the frame tubing to a dark matte gray. There is just too much red and I’m going to accent with matte gray. I’ve already gotten some great advice on this forum and look forward to hearing other advice, opinions and ideas. For instance I’m planning on changing the plastic header tank to aluminum to fix any leaking problems before they start. In order to remove the heavy power supply I will replace the older Whelen stobe/nav lights with some LED lights. The rudder pedals will be beefed up so no potential cracking there. Trying to figure out what to do about elevator trim. Look forward to joining the Kitfox community and hope I can give something back.
https://image.ibb.co/do7NRT/IMG_3818.jpghttps://image.ibb.co/j4p2RT/IMG_3666.jpghttps://image.ibb.co/fsM5fo/RedFoxII.jpg
http://www.teamkitfox.com/Forums/<img src=&quot;<a href=https://image.ibb.co/ed0LD8/IMG_3818.jpg&quot; target=_blank>https://image.ibb.co/ed0LD8/IMG_3818.jpg&quot;</a> alt=&quot;IMG_3818&quot; border=&quot;0&quot;>
https://ibb.co/e19DY8https://ibb.co/gupSRThttps://ibb.co/mg8qD8https://ibb.co/bORGmT

aviator79
05-21-2018, 02:00 PM
It looks like you've got a great head start there. I'd wager it's well over half completed. Welcome to the fun.

efwd
05-21-2018, 05:09 PM
Welcome to the forum Hoenshell. You'll enjoy all that's left for you to do.
Eddie

jiott
05-21-2018, 10:03 PM
I like your guts and can-do attitude. You will do fine.

avidflyer
05-22-2018, 02:24 AM
I just made an elevator trim for my Kitfox 4 elevator. I have it uncovered, so I figured now was the time to do it. The plane did have a moveable trim tab but as long as it was accessable, I cut out the section, and made a new one. I still have the old one, it's meant to be installed on a covered elevator. I thought Merhl Williams supplied it, but I didn't find one on his website. You can see it on the elevator in the picture. JImChuk

Hoenshell
05-22-2018, 06:00 AM
My elevator is already covered and I'm debating on pulling it off and putting in the trim tab. Since I didn't cover the airplane it's not like I'm redoing my own work. Is it worth it? I've heard of alternatives, but I'm thinking that this is the best way to go.

Av8r3400
05-22-2018, 11:16 AM
I've had IVs with and without pitch trim tabs. With is better, IMO.

HighWing
05-22-2018, 02:27 PM
When I was preparing an order for my first Model IV back in 1992, I hadn't flown in about 15 years, but the absence of trim in the basic IV kit concerned me because of my memories in the Cessna 170B. I ordered the Speedster elevator and was glad I did when hearing the other guys talking about using the flaperons for pitch trim.

Wheels
05-26-2018, 08:07 PM
Welcome to the club! You will love that plane!

Hoenshell
05-26-2018, 08:09 PM
Can the floor board and control column be removed with the fabric already installed on the fuselage? I would like to paint these parts a different color and I don't know if it's possible to get to the nuts which are now covered by the fabric?
https://image.ibb.co/fYErVo/IMG_3884.jpg

Hoenshell
05-27-2018, 04:37 PM
I found this thread and looks like you have to access the nuts through the fabric? Maybe the only way is to create inspection holes? Might be too much work to change color of control rod.

http://www.teamkitfox.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=2900&highlight=floorboard

Hoenshell
05-29-2018, 12:31 PM
The previous builder used fabric and sewn in window for the butt rib close out. If you can see in the picture the window has some kind of orange peel, probably from age. It looks like most builders are not going this route?

https://image.ibb.co/k5uO0y/IMG_3894.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/bJMstJ/IMG_3896_2.jpg

HighWing
06-01-2018, 07:43 AM
For some reason on my 1993 Model IV, I left the butt rib uncovered. I came to like the look and the ease of checking things out visually during the year without having to fold the wings. The New IV is the same. I recall being able to see the actual fuel sloshing in the tank through the translucent end panel. Just me, I guess, as I see most closing that area and leaving the window for the sight gauges.

Dave S
06-01-2018, 08:11 AM
Shawn,


I think what you are looking at with the fabric covered buttrib and plastic sewn in window is an artifact of the original kit design.


Even our early S7, which predated the time when John Mc Bean owned the company, had instructions in the build manual for the same type of closure. I elected to fabricate light weight aluminum plates for the front and rear rib openings; and, a polycarbonate window for the center section over the sight gauges - which is the design Kitfox now uses. This also provides access to the door hinge bolts which you could not get to with the fabric covered design. I think most of us are currently bonding in aluminum closure between the door hinges between the buttrib and the fuselage frame to close off the outside without using the fabric wrap around.

Northof49
06-01-2018, 10:57 PM
I covered the I/B side of my butt ribs with 0.016 aluminum; cut out the center for the sight glass , then fabricated wing root fairings so I get a good seal at the top of the door.

Hoenshell
06-02-2018, 10:40 AM
Well, I removed the fabric last night; especially after seeing one in person that used aluminum and poly-carbonate to close off the butt rib. That fabric had to go because of the poor visibility though that window. Thanks for the info guys!

Hoenshell
06-03-2018, 07:10 PM
What's the best way to open the holes in the horizontal stabilizer for the bolts to connect the struts. It's been covered with fabric and painted; there is a round patch tacked into place over the holes. Is a soldering iron used to open those up or a drill bit or something else?
https://image.ibb.co/kQWbfy/IMG_3961.jpg

jiott
06-03-2018, 07:23 PM
Use a small soldering iron or a woodburning tool with a small tip. Using heat to melt thru the fabric seals the edges so there is no unraveling.

Hoenshell
06-03-2018, 07:39 PM
Thanks, worked perfectly! Now, if I can just find the right bolts.

Hoenshell
06-05-2018, 10:16 AM
So I'm working on getting the MIV Bush Gear, 22" Dresser Tundra tires with Grove Wheels and Brakes. That should pretty much take care of the front gear, but what about the back end? This is what I have now. I think I need to upgrade to a pneumatic tire at minimum, but anyone know if this spring is alright? It was an aluminum tailspring upgrade from Kitfox back in the 1999. Do I need to upgrade this whole tailwheel setup?

https://image.ibb.co/h8hxa8/IMG_3962_1.jpg

Dusty
06-05-2018, 12:34 PM
Tha aluminium spring in conjunction with a pneumatic tail wheel is great on blacktop, but is way too stiff for anything else.Also a ground loop with the maule tail wheel and this tall Spring WILL do damage.Matco make a great tail wheel!

Av8r_Sed
06-05-2018, 08:24 PM
I have that spring and an 8” pneumatic Matco tailwheel. It works well for me. I fly mostly turf strips.

Hoenshell
06-06-2018, 07:03 AM
Paul, Do you have the one piece aluminum or steel spring?

Hoenshell
06-06-2018, 03:22 PM
The Manual says, "The Horizontal Stabilizer can be as much as 3 degrees to 3.5 negative compared to the datum (the front is lower than the rear.) Our Speedster demonstrator flies best with the leading edge of the Horizontal Stabilizer as high as possible in the slot."

My top hole measures 2.2 and 5 on the bottom hole with this electronic level. Is this normal? Should I set it to the top slot?
https://image.ibb.co/h2trno/IMG_3969.jpg

HighWing
06-06-2018, 05:59 PM
The Manual says, "The Horizontal Stabilizer can be as much as 3 degrees to 3.5 negative compared to the datum (the front is lower than the rear.) Our Speedster demonstrator flies best with the leading edge of the Horizontal Stabilizer as high as possible in the slot."

My top hole measures 2.2 and 5 on the bottom hole with this electronic level. Is this normal? Should I set it to the top slot?
https://image.ibb.co/h2trno/IMG_3969.jpg

This was the talk during my first IV build - "As high as possible". On that airplane I actually cut out a semicircular notch on the top of the tab to get it really as high as possible. Never adjusted it in its 9 years and 900 hours. The current IV was built without the notch and I perceive no difference, but the tab is still in touch with the lower rudder tube.

mr bill
06-06-2018, 07:20 PM
My leading edge tab is in the top hole and I still need some down trim on the elevator.

Av8r_Sed
06-06-2018, 08:17 PM
It’s the one piece Grove aluminum spring. With a solid Maule tailwheel it was pretty stiff, but the pneumatic wheel smooths it down nicely.

Hoenshell
06-08-2018, 08:17 AM
I've ordered a Matco 8" pneumatic tire and 3 leaf steel spring for the tail wheel. As far as painting goes, I'm mostly going to be painting the steel tube frame, cowl, wing tips, aluminum panel, landing gear all same color of matte grey. I'm not going to be doing much painting of grey on the fabric. Should I get something different than Poly-Fiber paint to paint these parts since it would be easier and probably less money? What are you guys doing? Using all Poly-Tone paint or something different for other than fabric painting. I don't think any painting of grey on my fabric will do will have to match exactly if my only reason is to match colors.

avidflyer
06-08-2018, 08:31 AM
If your new paint will be against areas that you are covering with the poly fiber system, it is best if it's epoxy paint. Regular paint can get dissolved by the solvents in the poly fiber chemicals. JImChuk

Esser
06-08-2018, 09:02 AM
High quality urethane paint won’t be damaged by the solvents either.

HighWing
06-08-2018, 09:42 AM
Historically it has been found that Polytone adheres very poorly to hard surfaces like fiberglass. Typically if used there an epoxy primer was sprayed first and after solvent evaporation, but before curing, the Polytone was sprayed on. A friend after doing that on his build many years ago was recently attempting to remove the Polytone top coat with solvents and no go. An automotive urethane works well on the fiberglass parts.

efwd
06-08-2018, 10:14 AM
I used Poly Tone on everything except small parts like the hub caps. I found a matching rattle can and it has turned out well. I sprayed color onto my Oratex and it has turned out beautiful with Poly Tone. As for my fiberglass and flapperons I don't know. I primered, allowed it to cure, sprayed another coat of primer let it get tacky and then put down the color. I have serious doubts about this factory recommended technique to get Poly Tone to stick. I can tell you I have put small scratches in my engine cowl at the spinner. It takes very little to scratch. I am betting after 100 hrs I will be in the paint shop at my local airport for a repaint with something more durable. Or maybe it will be look cool with the color pealing back. After all, many folks have had paint jobs with what appears to be fabric pealing back in the wind.:D
Eddie

airlina
06-08-2018, 05:35 PM
Eddie, when i was painting my Series 5 way back when, I tested the recommended polytone procedure on hard surfaces and found the results were poor, so I went to a local auto paint supplier and had them match my colors with a product called Dupont Centari (enamel). Had great results with that product over all metal , fiberglass etc. Been 15 years and it has held up well. Bruce N199CL

efwd
06-08-2018, 07:29 PM
Thanks, Ill put that in my note book.

Hoenshell
06-09-2018, 11:07 AM
I will have to remove this engine mount and replace it with one that is compatible with my smooth cowling, so my wife and I built this engine stand today on a moveable cabinet.



https://image.ibb.co/kcAFJT/IMG_3977.jpg

Wheels
06-09-2018, 12:28 PM
I did the same thing and it worked well. Just don't rotate the engine while on the stand. The nose gearbox seal can easily be damaged according to Rotech Research of Canada. I went to their engine classes and think they have the low down on maintenance. Several others on the forum have done as you (including me) and have had no issues.
Awesome.

Hoenshell
08-07-2018, 08:13 AM
Ok, while I'm waiting on parts from Kitfox I thought I would finish up my wings. I need to build the fuel sight gauge and I'm not exactly sure how I'm going to do this. I really like the idea of using 90 degree elbows with the little red pill that comes in these fuel sight gauge kits. I would like to build a panel that covers the rib and supports the sight tubes with a 90 degree fitting poking through. I believe I've seen similar setups, but my tanks sit 2.5" behind that rib. Has anyone else done something similar to what I'm looking for?



https://image.ibb.co/jCm8rK/IMG_4282_1.jpghttps://image.ibb.co/mPiorK/IMG_4285_1.jpg

Esser
08-07-2018, 08:23 AM
Hey Shawn, all the kitfoxes has a sight gauge similar to how you described. The kit cones with a sight tube that has a wire bent in it like this ] so no 90 reg fittings are used. The tubes after the bends are long enough to make it closer to your butt rub if that makes sense.

Hoenshell
08-07-2018, 08:57 AM
Yes, I understand how that is the way it’s normally done, but I’ve seen some use the 90 degree fitting that makes it a little cleaner and sight tube is more straight and without needing a wire. I will probably do the way you describe if can’t figure another way.

efwd
08-07-2018, 01:04 PM
When You figure it out be sure to get back to us. I have been wanting to do the same. I had intentions of calling on the company that makes the fuel tank dipping guage. They are fuel resistant and they are very clear. I would just need for the manufacturer to not put the laser etched gradations on them. AS&S sells those fuel qty dipping pipes.. Their etched for specific aircraft typically.

HighWing
08-07-2018, 04:49 PM
This got me thinking. Back in the day one of the guys we flew with regularly would have his wife sit in the seat and call out when the fuel level was at the top of the vertical tube in the sight gauge. I always found this interesting as on my first Model IV, I fueled each tank a gallon at a time to get an accurate mark on gauge. What I found is that at the top of the vertical tube just as the fuel began filling the horizontal part there was 9 gallons in the tank. I suppose tom never flew with more than 9 gallons in each tank. I did the proportional fill both tail in three point and fuselage level as in flight. With a 90 degree barb, I suspect you will be covering more of the vertical tube - top and bottom for probably a visual indication only between about 4 and 8 gallons.

Regarding the three point and flight attitude readings. In the middle the readings were really close, but low fuel and high fuel indications were a gallon or two different. Can't remember high or low, but a gallon or two different.

Hoenshell
08-17-2018, 11:15 AM
Well, here is what I come up with so far. I've seen some Cubs that are setup like this and thought you might be able to see the fuel level a little easier with the lines extending out into the cockpit a little. I would image that any markings on the white plexiglass will not show through the fuel line being so far away.
https://image.ibb.co/nmSjLz/IMG_4298.jpg

efwd
08-17-2018, 12:02 PM
Hi Shawn.
Assuming that your post was made to draw comment?
" I would imagine that any markings on the white plexiglass will not show through the fuel line being so far away."
Leads me to wonder why 1/2" closer to your eyes is better than being able to have the markings magnified by the fuel when the tube is 1/2" closer to the placard. Might work pretty nicely if you were to put markings directly onto the tubes. Silicone tape that's cut into thin lines may wrap around your tubes and act as fuel level marks. Or colored sharpies.

Hoenshell
08-17-2018, 12:11 PM
Given the location of the fuel lines and obstruction 1/2" might make a difference, but I get your point. Regardless, I think I'm going to change my mind and make it where the tubes are flat against the white background and ultimately the fuel markings. Something like this.
https://image.ibb.co/isa2qz/IMG_4302.jpg

aviator79
08-17-2018, 02:10 PM
Also consider parallax. If the fuel hose is far from the markings, then where the fuel is relative to the markings will depend on the angle at which you're looking at it. It will be different from the right seat, or if you change seat cushions, etc.

Esser
08-17-2018, 03:29 PM
I was thinking about this. Could you put a concentric reducer coming out of the so the hose is larger and then put some fuel proof ball in the hose so you can see where the ball is in the tube? Since the ball is larger tubing than the tanks fittings, it wont be able to get into the tank and block something important. It would just be stuck between the reducers

efwd
08-17-2018, 04:22 PM
Im not so sure. My tubes are held onto the fittings with a clamp. This Pic shows nothing to secure the tube except the ridges of the barb. Totally possible it won't leak I suppose, but then why does Kitfox provide clamps?

Hoenshell
11-12-2018, 06:47 PM
I ordered and received an aluminum header tank to replace the plastic one that came with my Kitfox and the quick drain doesn't line up with the opening the previous builder constructed. I can move the header tank towards the pilot side; but not sure if this would create any problems? I would either need to move the tabs on the tank or devise another method. Can I move my quick drain access in the fabric? What would you recommend?


https://image.ibb.co/fiPBDV/IMG-4549.jpg

Esser
11-12-2018, 06:49 PM
Can you put two 45’ elbows to line it up or will that make it too low?

efwd
11-12-2018, 07:17 PM
He will need to get a straight shot from underneath to drain the sump. I would just fashion up a means to slide the tank inboard an inch.

Hoenshell
11-12-2018, 07:38 PM
I think I could make it work with two elbows; although, I think it will be easier to move header tank inboard 1" to match drain hole. My passenger inner seat belt will rub on the header tank. I don't see that being an issue and I have made sure it will clear the seat pan. Thanks.

jiott
11-12-2018, 09:34 PM
I had to move mine over also, to line up the quick drain. I just modified the mountings to make it fit.

colospace
11-12-2018, 10:07 PM
Frankly, I would suggest that moving the penetration location in the fabric would be the simplest approach and would avoid inducing other complications. And your paint touch up will be out of sight on the belly.

airlina
11-13-2018, 03:48 AM
Frankly, I would suggest that moving the penetration location in the fabric would be the simplest approach and would avoid inducing other complications. And your paint touch up will be out of sight on the belly.

I will second Gary's fix of simply moving the drain outlet on the bottom of the fuse to match the new tank. After 15 years of owning and modifying my Series 5 , I find that every time you decide to change something in the plane a domino effect ensues. I always strive for the simplest fix and doing a bit of fabric patching in this situation will be the simplest thing to do . Bruce N199CL

efwd
11-13-2018, 06:49 AM
With Oratex it would be a no brainer. I have concerns with the seat belt interference myself.

jiott
11-13-2018, 11:34 AM
I respectfully disagree. Moving the tank about 1" toward the pilot is much easier; there are no complications, no fabric work, no touch-up, no welding on tank or airframe. See my photos below. I simply added a bolt-on aluminum bar across the top mounting tabs. Then drilled this bar for the new adel clamp locations-easy peasy.

efwd
11-13-2018, 05:34 PM
I respectfully agree... Nice work Jim, I think that is what I would do also.

Hoenshell
11-13-2018, 09:27 PM
I respectfully appreciate your comments. I guess it's good to have multiple options. I believe I've decided to move the tank inboard to meet the drain opening. I didn't cover this plane and have little experience with fabric repair, or changes in this case. I've done some fitting with the seat pan and seat belt and seem like everything will fit with maybe some minor contact between the tank and passenger seat belt. Good for me, I will be in the other seat.:)

Hoenshell
12-01-2018, 07:57 PM
I will definitely continue to post things that might provide value to readers here on TeamKitfox and in this thread; although, if you are interested in following my build progress more closely you can find me here...



https://www.facebook.com/groups/doghouse/

fathom
12-01-2018, 08:05 PM
Just joined-Lots of great photos! Thanks for opening it up to others, this will definitely be great going forward with our IV build. Best of luck!!

Hoenshell
12-03-2018, 11:30 AM
This method of holding my cowlings on, tight and together while still being able to manipulate the positioning is working out pretty good for me so far.

https://i.ibb.co/y5DkWtS/IMG-0227.jpghttps://i.ibb.co/92w7tZM/IMG-0219.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/gdyzkz3/IMG-0226.jpg

DesertFox4
12-03-2018, 05:03 PM
Good luck with the cowl fitting Shawn. Looks good. Always liked the smooth cowl look on the Classic 4.

HighWing
12-03-2018, 06:29 PM
I was always challenged with the way the IV cowl fit against the door. they seemed to want to bow out right at the horizontal joint with the overlapping Lexan trying to hold it flat but only when the door is closed. First I added some glass that surrounded the vertical tubing about half way at the forward door opening. Covering the vertical tube with clear packing tape makes a perfect separating medium for the epoxy saturated glass. Then, after helping my friend with the Lancair, I decided to go the piano hinge route between upper and lower cowl as he did. And as a a belt and suspenders thing, I added a Hysoled on tab that the hinge pin could run through to give the totally secured look - door open or closed.

Just some thoughts.

Hoenshell
12-13-2018, 08:07 AM
I am working on getting the IV smooth cowling to fit properly and it seems that the few IV smooth cowl builders in the past have had to cut and modify the shape of the cowling around the prop flange. I'm about to perform this operation. I'm unsure what would be the best fiberglass cloth and resin to use on this project. Anyone have some recommendations?


This top picture is my cowling and the last two are what I'm going to be performing.


https://i.ibb.co/yWHwWWZ/IMG-0250-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/QmyzK0z/Cowling1.png <a href=https://i.ibb.co/jz9SsBB/Cowling2.png target=_blank>https://i.ibb.co/jz9SsBB/Cowling2.png</a> https://i.ibb.co/yWHwWWZ/IMG-0250-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/jz9SsBB/Cowling2.png

Jerrytex
12-13-2018, 09:17 AM
I did a lot of fiberglassing on my cowling and wingtips. They were crunched in several places and pieces that were broke out and missing so I had to bridge areas kind of like you're having to do. I used the fiberglass chop strand mat and tore pieces off and built up these areas. You'll have to do it in multiple steps and you'll have to feather back a pretty good ways in both directions from the repair area. I used masking tape to kind of make "forms" for the fiberglass. Also I used a heat gun to form areas of the fiberglass that needed adjustments. On bends and areas that needed strength, after I filled with the chopped strand mat, I would add a piece of the weaved mat on the back side. I attached pics but had to resize them so small that hopefully you can still get an idea.

efwd
12-13-2018, 10:38 AM
Shawn, I assume you hastily placed the spinner plate into the pic. It's backwards. Ive done stuff like that before, just saying. Wouldn't want you to do too much before you turn it around.

Hoenshell
12-13-2018, 11:05 AM
I did that to measure and to show gap.

GWright6970
12-13-2018, 11:06 AM
Eddie,
I also placed my backing plate on backwards during this step, to get a better "cowling front plane" to get the proper cut angle with. I hope this makes sense!

efwd
12-13-2018, 02:18 PM
Very well. My cowl came together so slick with the spinner installed so I am not sure of anything (you might say). I have had inquiry about this step in the past, so, glad everyone is squared away. I am so glad I didn't have to cut up my cowl as has been needed in those pics that's for sure.

HighWing
12-13-2018, 10:11 PM
...I'm unsure what would be the best fiberglass cloth and resin to use on this project. Anyone have some recommendations.

One man's opinion, based on a little experience.

Glass:
I prefer the medium weight glass and for what I perceive to be your project the Twill weave would be my choice. This because the twill weave makes tightly forming over compound curves a bit easier. By adding more layers sufficient strength can be obtained. With extreme curvature on a piece or compound curves, cutting the glass so the fibers runs at a diagonal angle to the curve helps the glass lay down as well. I also prefer a "hard" epoxy as flexibility is not an issue in the complex curves of the cowl and it is easier to sand. Then for surface prep and smoothing joint areas, I prefer "Microballoons" added to the epoxy. This because consistency can be determined during the mix - a rather stiff peanut butter like mix for a quick fill of areas where a thinner mix might run. A thinner mix might be easier on a broad surface where weave filling is the main goal.

Separating Media:
Where lay-ups will be made against mating but not attached surfaces common to multiple piece projects a separating medium is important. Where locations allow, I like to use the common clear packing tape. Example - when finessing the edge between top cowl and windshield is desired, carefully laid out strips of the packing tape on the windshield will allow the glass to be laid directly to the windshield for a very precise fit. Use lots of care there, of course. Occasionally I will lay masking tape first, then the packing tape. Other separating media can be wax - like a paste car wax - or the liquid separating medium like PVA Mold Release. This can be brushed on or sprayed depending on size and desired finish. My understanding is that when wax Is used alone it requires several applications of wax - up to 6 in some cases and it is typically suggested that at least a couple of applications of wax be applied first before applying a liquid separator. With the wax or liquid separators, they should be thoroughly removed before adding glass / resin to that surface if it is necessary to modify those surfaces or painting, otherwise the bond might be insufficient.

An example of using micro to finesse a top and bottom cowl joint. Connect top and bottom together - preferably with the Camlocs (or Piano hinge pin installed) on the airplane after permanent positioning of the cowls is complete . Mix micro to the consistency of peanut butter - so it won't run or sag. Fill the gap between top and bottom cowl to very slightly overflowing with the micro. Then with a smooth thin piece of metal like a very thin table knife blade or a small metal mixing spatula, run the blade carefully one time only (ideally) down the joint using the lower edge of the upper cowl as a guide. Allow to cure then sand smooth and separate. Firm pressure with the knife or spatula against the joggle of the lower cowl during the run will prevent large areas of adhesion that might chip during separation. This is the method that is typically used to finesse the joint when using the piano hinge attachment.



The following pictures shows a tab attached to the lower cowl half that then fits into a pocket on the upper cowl that holds the outermost edges in the correct alignment without the need of a screw or camlock.

Hoenshell
02-04-2019, 01:33 PM
I got a couple of camlocs installed on my bottom smooth cowling; although, starboard and port bottom forward camlocs have a 1/4" gap between the fuselage tab and the cowling. I can easily push the cowling in to close the gap, but concerned if I should "warp" the cowling that much to attach? Any thoughts?
21595

Geowitz
02-04-2019, 03:27 PM
I used 1/2 inch aluminum c-channel to space the receptacle out. C-channel is riveted to the tab and the camloc sits in the c-channel. You could really use whatever spacers you needed with longer rivets.

Hoenshell
08-01-2019, 08:57 AM
After quite a bit of time spent on modifying my top cowling to make it fit around the prop flange, I finally got it clecoed to the bottom cowling. The top cowling pulls away from the door frame quite a bit on the co-pilot's side. The second image is of the pilots side. Has anyone else had a problem like this and any thoughts on how to fix?

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efwd
08-01-2019, 09:29 AM
I lucked out on my build. I did all my fitting without the windshield installed. Having said that, I would highly recommend you clamp your windshield in place. It may square up your boot cowl and take out some slack. When I put my windshield in place I noticed that it was only luck that caused it to fit so well.

Hoenshell
08-01-2019, 10:07 AM
I can understand how the windshield will push the cowling out and to the curvature of the windshield although, I have my doubts that it will be enough. The top cowling is pretty rigid and I can push it out at the center/top and it does pull the sides in a little. If I push on the top cowling to mimic the pressure the windshield should put on it...I had to push pretty hard to insert this piece of wood and the results are pictured below. It comes in a little, but not very much and definitely not completely. There has to be some amount force applied directly to the side/corner. My thought is making a metal lip welded onto the front door post in order to capture the top cowling and pull it into and snug with the door post?
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bbs428
08-25-2019, 08:51 AM
Just read thru your thread, nice IV. That cowl looks like a job. I'm not looking forward to wrestling mine...

I see your just a few hours north of me here in Webb City. Chase Balcom has a 5 that's flying and is a few hours to the east of me south of Rolla.

Some good times flying are in store for us. All the best.