Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build

[aviator79]

The thing about all the spraying is that once you're done with it, all the hassle starts to fade into memory. If you're happy with the result, it's time well spent, regardless of what system you used.

You're making awesome progress Joe. If I had to guess, I'd say you're on pace to be flying by the end of the year.

[airlina]

no moss grows under your feet Joe, can't believe your progress in such a short time, paint job looks great. Bruce N199CL

[David47]

The polyfibre is a long process but once done, all the work does seem worth it. I’m happy with my decision to stick with it and would do it again if I ever built another project ... which I won’t.

[JoeRuscito]

I’ve run into a couple problems in the last few days. First a tank leak (thread in the main forum). And now I have some peeling paint on aluminum. It stated coming off when I was scotch brighting before the yellow top coat on the landing gear brackets. On the inspection port it didn’t come off when prepping for top coat so I sprayed the yellow. After seeing the other chips I did some exploring and the inspection port paint peeled right off. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190615/1ce7f56f9af6270f69f5b2f417b1a31c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190615/dbe309d04796a076a092b23920a3042c.jpg

At the direction of the polyfiber manual I did not etch (because it’s new aluminum) but I did use the conversion coating that aircraft spruce sells. Should I have etched?

My process:

Scotch bright the aluminum
Acetone to clean
Wet with conversion coating and let soak for a few minutes
Rinse with water
Dry
Prime

Am I missing anything?

What is the best way to strip the coatings and start again? Sand blast?

Oddly it doesn’t seem to come off the landing gear. And hopefully the flaperon acts the same because it already has topcoat (I didn’t see evidence of poor adherence when prepping for top coat) but I haven’t tested it knowing that there might be an issue.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190615/0d2d871a8d9ff26f3458dee373244425.jpg


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[JoeRuscito]

Parts are now going on that (hopefully) will not be coming off again! Ive been working on many things but mainly getting the engine hung and plumbed. Ive also been slowly working on the cowls and Ill confirm what others have said, I think they've come on and off about 50 times! ;) I got lucky with the engine mount as it went on with little issue.

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Happy to be mostly done painting except the cowls. I dealt with my aluminum paint issues by using the primer the factory suggested rather than the Polyfiber stuff, its a Valspar DTM primer. I had to strip the Polyfiber primer off the gear mounts and inspection covers. Thankfully the original primer seems to be sticking to the flaperon and gear (so far) but if it starts peeling at some point down the road I will strip and redo.

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Brakes run and chafe sleeves for protection. I do notice that they are slightly tight if both pedals are adjusted to the shortest pilot position and pushed to their extremes. I don't think this will be an issue and overall Im happy with the way they ended up. Ive also swaged my rudder and this turned out well. Im a bit surprised how much friction is in the system, my pedals move freely but when everything is connected its not super smooth, have others noticed this?

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Engine is in and almost everything is installed on the firewall. Working out grounding. It sounds like most people use a common ground bus and don't use the engine mount/fuselage as a common as the manual describes. I will likely do the same.


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Routing the coolant and oil lines was definitely a challenge. The right side oil line and coolant line Im happy with, but I do need to figure out a good way to prevent chafing where the hoses cross. Any suggestions? It has to be heat proof of course in this position. The left side coolant line I still haven't finished because Im not sure I love the routing. I know others have gone between the ring mount and exhaust. I currently have it on the other side of the header. While it is closer to the head it seems less likely to chafe. I will just need good heat shielding (no more so than the other side). Something to note: The manual calls for hose clamps on all of the oil lines even though they are push lock hoses and fittings. I did put in a couple calls to Parker to get some clarification and they did say if a hose clamp was added and tightened too much you could damage the seal. I plan to still use clamps but tighten them very gently because they are likely not needed.

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Im now working on the fuel lines. These are a bit unwieldy for me and they are not nearly as pretty/neat as some of the work I've seen you all do. I may have also went a bit over board on the antichafe and securing to the frame but these things vibrating and cracking doesn't give me the warm and fussies so better safe than sorry. I found it difficult to bend it into the right shape without having to do some secondary bending which the manual specifically advises against. So in some cases that meant adding another bend to adjust the position. Also I had to redo one whole run after forgetting the sleeve and flaring the end.... dont do that!

As always open to feedback/comments/advise. So happy to have this forum as a resource as I have no idea what Im doing! I dont know how I could build this thing without.

Avionics should be arriving in a couple weeks and Im looking forward to getting started on some wiring. See y'all at Oshkosh!

[Mark123]

Hey there, Joe. Wow! You are really cranking the work out. It looks fantastic. Your fall completion goal seems attainable. Keep it up, can’t wait for your first flight. We’ll have to meet up at Oshkosh.

[Shadowrider]

Looking good! Making good progress!

[rtc183]

You will love the 912is, but there is a little bit of a learning curve. Make sure you get the grounds figured out while installing because the diagram I had when doing mine last year was not correct showing the isolated ground actually going to the main ground. I think they fixed it. The engine area temp probe can go pretty much any where in the cowling that is away from the main heat sources. When starting I figured one fuel pump would flush any air out of the system, but it doesn't. Found this out with a very difficult start and the guys here helped me diagnose it. Run both pumps for at least 10 seconds and you will hear the air being flushed out. Then go to one for the start. Make sure you go slow on the lane checks giving the lights plenty of time to go out and back on. I was told you don't need to do the lane checks, but I do one each day at least. I have the Airmaster prop and it is great. I go to climb at about 100ft and then pull the power back slowly to about 95 - 96 percent to get the burn down to around 4.5gph. You'll love it.
Bob

[JoeRuscito]

Thanks for the tips Bob and I’ll keep an eye out for that incorrect ground. I’m getting excited to start this thing. Have a month or so before that though. Do you have any pictures of your engine? Left right, front top? I’ve only found a couple 912is install pictures to reference. It’s always helpful to see how others have routed things. Also I’m considering mounting my ECU on the firewall in the engine compartment as they do with the 915 (I believe it’s the same unit), the Rotax manual says this is acceptable. Did you mount yours as the kitfox manual suggests, in the cockpit, on the avionics trays?

[rtc183]

I mounted mine like the Kitfox manual suggested. I went with a fold down instrument panel so I can always have access. My whole build is on mykitlog.com/rtc183. Lots of pics and descriptions. Let me know if you want more.
Bob

[JoeRuscito]

Ah perfect! I’ll check it out. Thanks Bob!


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[bbs428]

Just read thru your build thread again Joe. Wow!
A few less setbacks than me but your powering ahead nicely.
Looking great! :D

[JoeRuscito]

Thanks Brett. Your build seems to be coming along as well. I like the carbon trailing edge stiffeners. Im sure that's lighter than the Al hyssop combo. I need to update, these days its hard to tear away from working on the plane! Ill get some more pics uploaded soon. Got some of the panel to light up last night!
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[JoeRuscito]

Been working mostly on electronics the last few weeks and happy to say everything is in, running and mostly configured. No blue smoke! Once the wings are on I will have to connect the magnetometer and I still need to lengthen the OAT sensor and hook up the fuel pressure sender. Otherwise the engine is talking with the G3X and seems to be functioning correctly. Wont be long before first engine start! Also got the windshield installed and the turtle deck fit (waiting on wings to do the flatiron cut and hinge). I have lots of wire clean up to do but its coming together nicely, Im wire lacing everything so its a bit time consuming but it looks nice when complete.

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Heres how I mounted my AHARS. It seems to cut down on the wire runs having it here as opposed to behind the panel and I don't have to run the air lines forward.
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I used the panel supports to give some support to the com rack.
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This is how I mounted the GPS and XPDR. I didn't see a need to have a plate for the GPS and this ended up working well. I know some have hid it under the cargo sack but mine will sit on top and screws will go though the sack.
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Wires still a mess here but starting to clean them up!

Now Im working on redoing all of my NPT fitting on fuel and brake system. Using 9AR as some have suggested. Ill mention for what its worth, even after putting the blue goo on male and female threads, as I disassemble I notice very little stayed on the mating threads, most wiped away. No wonder it leaks! The 9AR seems to stay in the threads much better. We will see!

----Almost forgot, All upholstery done!
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My glare shield did not come out perfect, I actually cut way too big of a hole and had to hysol a piece of Al in place with the correct cut. Overall you cant tell and it looks great IMHO. I also used a piece of Tyson tubing split on the 1 inch panel overhang to give it a nice round finished edge.

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[Shadowrider]

It’s looking good Joe! Wait until you start it and your motivation will kick into high gear. Make sure your just throw away the 5/16 black fuel line that came in the fwf kit. It’s garabage!

[JoeRuscito]

Thanks Dustin, yea Im getting stoked! Also I did see your post and have the Gates stuff in my amazon cart. Did you need both the 5/16 and the 1/4 in line? I guessed the 1/4 inch stuff was to replace the Tyson return to the wing correct?

[Shadowrider]

Tygon tubing is fine. You just need the 5/16 that Brian recommended.

Gates LP (Low Permeation) Carb Fuel Line 5/16" ID x 25ft L 27314

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00498G5QC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[aviator79]

Yes, the 1/4 inch is for the vent line. My rationale was that since this line is full of gas too, it should be low permeation as well.

[Shadowrider]

Thanks Brian for the link, the fuel line you suggested worked great and got rid of the smell. Tygon is low permeation so your good if you leave it. Rubber is generally more durable so if you switch it out you will be better in the long run.

[bbs428]

Great pic's Joe. The plane is really coming together. I'm excited for you! Lot's of sweat equity going on.
The shear volume of tasks all builders slog thru is always impressive.
Gives me hope as I tackle the g3x system install this winter! lol. ;)

[JoeRuscito]

Still lots more tasks to come! I’m getting excited though!

Ill tell you as others have said the G3X system was pretty straight forward once you get the hang of it. And garmin technical support is exceptional! And when you’re done wiring they’ve made configuration so user friendly you barely need the manual. Really a well designed system imho.

[temecula50]

Hello to everyone,I have been lurking for 12 years and finally picked up a great K5 project. I am about to cover the wings and have noticed some are scalloped towards the trailing edge and some are flat. I attended an EAA (Brown Field,San Diego) luncheon yesterday and met the chapter leader who showed me his restoration of a Stitts bi-wing.He explained the flat verses scalloped wing was the result of the heat shrinking technique used.My question to this group is : what are the aeronautical advantages to either flat or scalloped wings? Thanks ...Gerry Breid (temecula50)

[PapuaPilot]

.My question to this group is : what are the aeronautical advantages to either flat or scalloped wings? Thanks ...Gerry Breid (temecula50)

There is not any advantage to either. The scalloping just means they have shrunk the fabric more than what is needed.

[Meyer]

Is there a small plate under the GA35? Looks like it only has two screws in it now. Will it just sit on top of the baggage sack?

Thanks

[JoeRuscito]

No plate. I know its hard to see in the pictures but two adel clamps up front bolted right to the GPS and then two Al tubes with the ends flattened and bent in the back. The tubes are bolted to the GPS and adel clamped to the frame on the other end. Its very rigid. Ill melt holes in the cargo sack and it will sit on top. I didn't see a need for the plate/weight.

[JoeRuscito]

First engine run yesterday! Feeling like Im nearing the finish line! Also had my tech adviser out yesterday and he gave the thumbs up on work to date. One minor cable routing suggestion, to get a bit more separation between fuel valve and wire harness. Added a standoff to address. Some pictures of my progress in the last few weeks. Had the wings on briefly to finish the turtle deck and lift struts.
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All went well with the engine run except I noticed a steady fuel pressure of 37.8 psi once the engine was running. Before engine start I had a full 43 psi. Im starting with just the main pump turned on and ran the test with only the main pump (not both). Should I be running both? Im using a UMA pressure sensor. Being the first start I briefly brought the power up to 2500 once I confirmed I had oil pressure (to switch lanes) and then ran for 2 mins at 2000 before shutting down. All else was in the green and the system voltage was steady at 14.7.
Any thoughts on why I might be seeing the low pressure?

Thanks!

[bumsteer]

Joe

I'm asking for my own knowledge: is the fuel pump supposed to put out a constant pressure or is it controlled by the ECU and after starting it varies the pressure to whatever it requires?

Rick

[JoeRuscito]

Rick, that I do not know. I simply know that what I was seeing was below the normal operating min that was called out in the owners manual.

[Shadowrider]

I know its apples to oranges, but for what its worth my fuel PSI drops 5 psi when my engine starts. My fuel pressure ramps up above 2500 rpm.

[JoeRuscito]

I’ll check that next time I run. Next run will be at a higher rpm. And I’ll check the other pump this one only went above 2500 for 5-10 seconds

[aviator79]

What's left on your punch list Joe? Seems like it's time to think about scheduling a DAR.

[JoeRuscito]

Lift struts. So I still have about 2 weeks of work! Haha But serious these things take some work and a ton of super fill had to order more.

I have to attach/glue the boot cowl.

Do fuel flow tests with wings on.

Finish wingtip wiring once I can take my paint booth down.

I think that’s all the big stuff.

Do most people have to remove prop and spinner plate and exhaust pipe to tonics lower cowl? Mine is seeming impossible to place with prop on.


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[jiott]

Its not impossible but is a little tricky to install the lower cowl without removing the prop/spinner. You have to develop a careful routine. On mine I have to carefully flex the top front edge of the cowl to slip it in behind the spinner backplate without scratching anything. Entirely doable. I think some folks have more trouble than others depending upon your personal final fitup of the lower cowl and spinner-to-cowl gap.

[aviator79]

My spinner-to-cowl gap is tighter than most. I can get my lower cowl on and off without removing the prop, but it requires some practice. It also rubs the lower cowl on the boot cowl just a bit, so I'm missing some paint where it rubs. I need to touch it up and then install a 3M protective film there. You might be able to open up your exhaust hole some to help. Loosening the exhaust stinger to get the lower cowl off might not be so bad, but if you have to remove your prop to get the lower cowl off, then I'd see if you can modify something to change that. You'll want to be able to get your cowls off frequently. I know with the Airmaster, it wouldn't be enough to remove the spinner. You'd have to remove the whole prop to get the backplate out of the way.

[JoeRuscito]

Thanks for the tips on the cowl. I was able to make it happen by putting the front up as far as I could behind the spinner. Then carefully bring the back end up and it just barely cleared the radiator.

I got my static pitch/rpm set at just shy of 5100. Ive been told this is a good place to start. I have the whirlwind 3 blade and the pitch is set at 21 degrees.


Also...
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... Safely at the hanger. Will be knocking out the punch list this week.


I have a potentially simple and maybe obvious question but how is everyone routing the air bleed from the header to the wing? Between the butt rib and the #1 or between the tank and the #1. Mine kinks when between the tank and #1.

Also, I think I want to replace my tail wheel. Suggestions? Do others replace the spring as well when changing the wheel assembly?

[Shadowrider]

T3, tundra lite. 5 landings I have....👍👍

[jiott]

Joe, my air vent goes between the tank and #1 rib and it kinks a little but not too bad. I bought a 90 degree fitting to replace the straight one, but have never gotten around to installing it. To run the tube anywhere else would be kind of ugly.

[efwd]

Im using the T3 and the Standard ABI 3224 tailwheel. I got them both from Kitfox on John M's recommendation. Im really liking them. I modified the barbed fitting for the return fuel line by removing a barb or maybe two, I don't recall exactly. Mine does not kink.

[aviator79]

I have the same tailwheel and spring as Eddie, and really love it. No bouncy tail on rough surfaces, and when I touch the tailwheel first, the T3 handles it like a champ.

[JoeRuscito]

Thanks guys, I have my request into Kitfox.

[JoeRuscito]

Did my weight and balance today. I used heavy duty bathroom scales and it went fairly well, they were all within 1 lbs of each other when I calibrated them. I weighed twice and took the average (they were each off ~+/- 1 lb between tests). My total weight is 836.4 lbs and GC is at 10.4. Once I get up and flying I plan to get it reweighed on some real aviation scales but there are not any I have access to close by. The trickiest part for me was accurately marking the tail wheel position on the floor when it was up on a stand so a plumb bob couldn't be used.





Right Wheel
Left Wheel
Tail




Weight #1
385
386.6
65.6
837.2


Weight #2
384.4
385
66.2
835.6


Average
384.7
385.8
65.9
836.4














ARM
-1.6875
-1.96875
154.0625





I also ran some trail weight and balances for the first time, my take aways were:

-adding or subtracting fuel has very minimal effect on cg. Min 30 min fuel at 7.26 gallons per hour (Rotax 912is) or max fuel only moves the CG a fraction of an inch.
-even adding passengers has minimal effect
-cargo has of course the largest effect
-with full fuel and two 190 lbs passengers and 150 lbs of baggage I am still 25 lbs under 1550 but my cg is behind 16 (@16.62) which means I will only be able to carry 120 lbs cargo in that configuration. And considering subtracting fuel has little effect that seems to be my max cargo weight. Does this make sense?

Excuse my novice understanding, but it seems the stol guys are always trying to get the CG farther back. This doesn't seem very difficult so why is it such a topic of concern. What does seem difficult is to get an empty CG forward enough to be able to utilize the full cargo capacity.

Now that I know I'm likely to always be under 1550 Im considering springing for the Airmaster, which would put a bunch of weight on the nose so that my cg moves forward. Thoughts?

[aviator79]

Good weight and CG Joe!

The Airmaster will move your CG forward. I have a 914 and Airmaster. My empty weight is 875, and empty CG is 9.7. I can carry full fuel, two grown men, and 150 lbs in the baggage area without exceeding max gross or the aft limit. The downside is that when I'm light and by myself (CG 11.8), it's nose-heavy. I can't trim it hands-off at approach speed despite adjusting the trim actuator rod end to its aft limit. I compensate by throwing 25 lbs in the baggage area (CG 12.7), which gets it *almost* hands off at approach speed. 50 lbs in the baggage area (CG 13.5) makes it even better, but 25 is a good compromise. You do sacrifice some performance adding baggage ballast to dial in your CG.

In my opinion, if you can afford the Airmaster, you should do it. It might give you some more utility with your CG, but that's secondary to getting all the performance out of your engine.

One other thing: On my W&B, I divided the baggage area into three stations (fore, mid, and aft). If you put the heavy stuff in the front of your baggage area, and the lighter stuff in back, it can help you stay forward of the limit.

[jiott]

Yes, managing the weight distribution in the cargo area helps a lot. I keep my tool kit, tiedowns, etc. crammed right behind the seat and put the lightest stuff in the rear of the cargo area. I like the idea of braking the cargo area into 3 zones to more accurately calculate W&B.

[bbs428]

Nice W&B Joe! Your bird looks fantastic. I'll be following along as you get it all sorted. Congratz!! ;)

[JoeRuscito]

First flight went well yesterday!

https://www.instagram.com/p/B4aDip2H0Ad/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
(easiest way to get video on here)

Take off was a non-event, did so without flaps to be safe. Once I had the opportunity to test them at altitude I landed with them. My landing was pretty fast but I was layering margin on margin... It took me two tries to get it on the ground. I told myself if I didn't like any aspect of the approach Id go around, the first one I was pretty high and I think that was due to the runway being 150ft wide and much larger thinner stuff I trained on with S&R. On the second one I was still fast but worked it in and the landing was nice and smooth.

The plane performed as expected. I have a slightly heavy left wing which it sounds like it is pretty common. I also noticed that with full nose up trim I still needed a lot of back pressure on the stick with full flaps. Im wondering if its standard to adjust the throw of the elevator jack screw to give me more nose up trim ability?

Id like to get the trim adjusted as that was the most distracting aspect of the approach, I don't think I will adjust the left wing drop before the next flight because it was so slight I want to feel it out a bit more and make sure it is not a flaperon rigging change vs a wing twist change. Open to feedback here.

Im really looking forward to the next flight when I can absorb a bit more and dial in my approach a bit.

[Esser]

Awesome Joe! Congrats!!

For the elevator, what is your weight and balance? I needed to relocate weight to get it to feel good. The more weight in the rear the better. For stol stuff I add 10lbs in the tail and it feels WAY better. Do you have te spring assist?

For the heavy wing, next time you fly try a little right rudder and see how that feels before you change rigging.

[JoeRuscito]

Thanks Josh, my test flight CG was right around 12.5. And no I do not have the trim assist. I will try the right rudder on next flight. I do want to get the elevator a bit lighter though be for the next one. I take it is not normal to adjust the position of the trim jack screw connection?

[Shadowrider]

Great job! It’s quite the accomplishment! I need lots of back elevator pressure on landing also. I don't have the spring assist and prefer the elevator to be heavy as the aircraft I fly for my job is heavy on the elevator so its a good transfer. If its light on the elevator I have a tendency to over control. My weights and CG are pretty much the same as Brian's.

[jiott]

Yes Joe, it IS quite common to adjust the trim jackscrew for max nose up trim. It is easy to do and still leaves you with plenty of nose down trim. Even after adjusting for max nose up trim you will still need some stick backpressure with full flaps. All backpressure can be trimmed out with 1/2 flaps. I also have the trim assist spring. My comments are for the SS7.

[JoeRuscito]

Second and third flight in the books....

Ive ordered a trim assist and Ive also moved my trim rod end in 2.5 turns. This certainly helped but I still have LOTS of back pressure required when using full flaps. My last landing I only used half flaps and this felt MUCH better, similar to what S&R full flaps felt like. Ive also been reading some of the posts about the trim assist and the possibility of tail plane stall with full flaps. Id like to know as much as there is to know about this and will continue reading. For now I will stick to half flaps.

I still have a heavy left wing, and right rudder does pick it up but also puts me in a skidding right turn. IS the heavy left wing common only because in testing we are solo and sitting on the left? Or should this be adjusted?

Lastly, I attempted a power on stall, with no intention of stalling, just to feel the buffet and I got some pretty strong, vibrations/buffeting on the stick so I aborted, is this normal? I did not remember this with S&R. I was concerned about the tail plane stall. Power off buffet starts to happen around 39 mph. And is very gentle.

Other than the above Im loving it! The second flight was a world difference than the first. The third was really enjoyable! Next I need to adjust my prop. At 5500 RPM Im seeing pretty low indicated speeds, around 95-99 mph. Im thinking its because Im set up with a climb prop at a static RPM of 5200-5300.

Also Dorsal's dynavibe came in today so I will work on getting that done so I can send it to the next guy. Ill will do my best to get to it this weekend.

[jiott]

Joe, turn the trim rod end in until full nose up trim brings the HS front tube clear to the bottom of the slot in the tail access panels.

Nearly everyone ends up with a heavy left wing on the maiden flight. It will happen even if your build and rigging is perfect and symetrical, due to the left turning tendencies of all aircraft (P-factor, engine torque, spiral slipstream). So you will need to tweak the rigging, lift strut rod ends, to eliminate it. Do it in stages; it usually takes 2-3 tries. Sitting on the left side does affect it a little, but most of us fly solo most of the time.

[Dorsal]

Congratulations on the first set of flights, sounds like she is flying beautifully and looks fantastic. Good call on adding the trim assist, I can fly almost hands off on final with full up trim (one notch of flaps). Your static RPM numbers look about right to me, speed seems off, what does the GPS say? No rush on the Dynavibe as Skidookid took himself off the list.

[efwd]

Congratulations Joe. Reading your post is like rereading my own. I made one half turn correction on the right wing lift strut and corrected my left wing heavy issue. It obviously doesn't require much. Paul L. Advises removing pitch on the opposite wing first.

[JoeRuscito]

I’m going to do another airspeed check before I make pitch changes. I’ll note the ground speeds.

Do you happen to know why Paul suggests adjusting the light wing first? I read in another post that John M suggests adjusting the heavy wing first.

Thanks!


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[efwd]

If I recall correctly, the idea is that you aren't changing much but if your going to turn a rod end, it would be ideal if you are gaining thread contact rather than reducing the number of thread engagement on a rod end bearing.

[Michaels kitfox]

I would think that you would be better to add washout than take it away?:confused:

[efwd]

That's one way to look at it. It was only recommended to start this way. The next move is then to increase the heavy side. It was a bubble level that established the washout initially, so I think to start with a little reduction first isn't bad advice. You probably won't go to the opposite side anyhow. Unless you want to determine which wing it is that has that fraction of a degree too little or too much, your kinda stuck starting someplace. Any place.

[JoeRuscito]

Got my heavy left wing all sorted. It took a full turn on the right rear and a half turn on the left rear. Also added the trim assist. WOW what a difference. Ive also been mainly using one notch of flaps for landing and all is smooth! Really enjoying it. Im up to about 10 hours flight time now and have landing at a few different airports including one grass strip. So much fun. Still dialing in the prop pitch as Im getting 5700 WOT in cruise and about 102 MPH indicated. Slowly adding pitch to get that number down to around 5500-5600 WOT in cruise.

Also I put together a build time lapse. Im no YouTuber but I figured it might help some people see all that is involved with one of these builds. https://youtu.be/rmgmYuuQYcw

[bbs428]

Glad your getting it all sorted Joe. All sounds great - your living a blessed life my friend! Appreciate your insights and the time lapse vid.
When your restricted time is complete you'll have to come out west and do a photo shoot with us here in fly over country. :D

Fly safe!