Dual STI build log

[PapuaPilot]

You are correct Jim, I remember the thread and sealed the holes on the edge of my caps at that point.

[DesertFox4]

Photo below shows where to look and seal the cap edges.
30200
The yellow marker tip shows where to seal using J.B. Weld.
Usually four locations around the rim to fill with a very small amount of J.B. Weld. These caps don’t always bypass the ram air from the cap tubes during flight but enough do that it warrants taking 10 minutes and sealing these areas.

The photo shows the Mercedees blue gaskets for a better seal of the caps. They are permanent replacements for the lower quality black rubber gaskets that come with the caps. They can be tight for some caps but a little “adjustment” of the cap retention tabs usually takes care of that issue if you’ve found your original black rubber seals not working or worse, breaking down from age.
A little wipe periodically of engine oil or fuel lube on the blue gaskets can make removal and reinstalling the caps much easier.
30201
Mercedees part number for blue cap seals.

[yocum137]

Kitfox is brazing those holes closed now. Well, they were when I got mine in Dec '20. See the attached image. The 4 holes on the outside go nowhere after the vent holes are brazed shut.

30202

[patrick.hvac]

Hey Dustin,

What did you use for heater fan speed control? Looks like a PWM control of some sort.

[Delta Whisky]

Looking good! I am excited to hear the full flight report?

I don't have a decent flight result report and probably won't ever have one. There's a story here, not a "hold my beer" type so the details are a bit boring to anyone that isn't interested in the math or finer points so I'll try and be brief. First of all, once I got into the details of the analysis I "discovered" the premise of my approach was flawed from the get go so I had to back to what could have been. (My approach works with a constant speed prop - which I don't have.) Second, I didn't take enough baseline data to absolutely validate the accuracy of foundational data points. Third, as reported earlier, after installing the fairings I wasn't able to fly in calm (enough?) conditions to get reliable data. Cutting and chopping through the data I did discover there is really good reason to believe (know?) I was using less power at the same RPMs to achieve the same speeds. The picture was unmistakable and the final output report looks like this:

Drag reduction is somewhere between 5.4 and 8.4 pounds (which compares favorably to raw aerodynamic drag calculations based on the physical attributes that says it should be 7.3 pounds).

Putting the numbers into the formula indicates that the maximum (potential) speed improvement will be 3.7 knots (4.25 mph)

I just couldn't help myself (maybe a form of OCD?) but I went back to my glide speed graphs and, using that data, discovered that level flight at 96.2 knots (1127 pounds) takes 57.5 HP and using Rotax graphs a 912 ULS at 2000 ft density altitude and 5500 rpm is putting out slightly less than 65.4 HP. All this goes to propeller efficiency which would mean mine is running about 87% efficient - a number much larger than I would have guessed but within range of some of the best modern props.

All of the data and analysis seen here is not much better than "back of the envelope" calculations but, on the other hand, I was surprised at how well everything meshed within bounds of reasonableness.

A really short version of the long answer to your question - I'd not expect a speed improvement of more than 3.7 knots.

[jrevens]

Kitfox is brazing those holes closed now. Well, they were when I got mine in Dec '20. See the attached image. The 4 holes on the outside go nowhere after the vent holes are brazed shut.

30202

Exactly. I had a little pinhole on one of those welds that was causing a little loss of pressure on that tank. Also, if you have the blue gaskets and the cap still isn’t as tight as you’d like it, you can gently bend those 2 tabs to correct it. I did that too. Worked great.

[Shadowrider]

New fuel caps have been working great. I still get about 1/3 tank fuel imbalance and then it will finally equalize when it gets lower fuel levels but its not pushing fuel into the opposite wing anymore.

Did a trip into Johnson Creek prior to going to the Kitfox flyin. Idaho back-country is not for the faint of heart. Its an entire different game up there. Flying down the bottom of a deep canyon with no options to land if you had troubles. Plane ran great and performed like a champ. I went into a dozen different strips. The highlights where "Mile High, and Dewey Moore." Loved flying into the lodges to get breakfast after hitting a few new strips in the morning. Great to have an seasoned Idaho pilot (Scott Noble) before going into some very inhospitable terrain. Did a post flight inspection today and everything looked good. Only issue I have is some finishing tape on me tail is starting to separate. Debating on pull it all off or trying to salvage it? Sent of an oil sample to check the health of the engine to also make sure everything internal is still happy. I took a gopro to try and film some but it turns out you have to remember to turn it on and off. Didn't get any of "Mile High" and only the landing of "Dewey Moore". Here is a couple of photos. After JC we flew down to check out the flyin. Pretty fun to check everyones planes and talk kitfox's.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVlx29zZum3j4A6hF1_dm4U4bid33yQZyzLx8_EjLVNNntYz amA9Fwb7c7ekEh0LwfQr9yUdHcdoN1kAj8pSsmXo4ehnwJmtYW rcT-Zrpagw9Bl3fM1gCctCLSctioaDqW7VJdTAK67Pk3kdYhkyJ8-8Q=w1359-h1019-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVyT1SsD9WdD8oOdhs43K4umUdhJ33xI08uh8HqxL_UrOP7F tRFRo01ERxzPb3nTky4Qw9Olq8mdnC4Qepr1wzrjT_rqqVGJPU FbhSZXl5AX29A97Wz0NSQGHBX5iSlxS43xczvgr7hYpLTRrBZO oWPaw=w1359-h1019-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVz_cCwmakAqY2l14eY9O54BrLbBSV-encJkmqQk9sN2TtjjNjdHIHO_ngg1mt5AXGGPWsE9zMLDt1-46pPeTqFQIlmm66HfnUopl4WlAqEOip5UEtwBnvuUT2QN-mR6zJnj2t9skAfn4uU6N0x4PfF0g=w1600-h777-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLW_6cMoGvj3ZxWID_wCxuyzQA7sglVwnCiD7Pw1pwLYJJWSE yIpYTEMkSu9e9su64pN82S90LGmUZEVzjRf3LVasrOhgbrNkCI aCwcPg845jd3P4u0ZfH6kfn1vUv680mMHmN2byavQrP3IWoz-Br_j5w=w1920-h523-no?authuser=0


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJTbSO-Pt8I&t=305s

[Shadowrider]

Its been hot and TS here so not much flying going on. Working on making some new parts.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEVALGWma14hIH3wFV27WPU1dbJ1NTgsfnbJgQW-l2gwdm0GW3pFaE5fE2ssLv2Q4Hv2zFdkPP89W4Jlv0vR3cdLFl Ta06A3b-ospp2kRuRenbnY07fEWXPH_96jbBZ0crHSpfi76Tn85RCe2yR_ 9AMXew=w1359-h1019-no?authuser=0

[yocum137]

Oh yeah, I've been thinking about how to put a trailing edge on the Monster shocks, too. Particularly that bare section. I'll be interested to know how much speed you get from that. Looks good!


Its been hot and TS here so not much flying going on. Working on making some new parts.

[Jquayle]

Shadowrider,

I have the same engine and had a few questions if you don't mind:

1. how did you get the Boost Temp in the Garmin? Which probe and where did you attach it?
2. I'm running a vernier throttle, but I have it it running through the 90° bend (which I hate). Did you have to do anything else special with the throttle arm Aviator97 made for you or was it pretty straightforward once you have that part.


Thank you so much,



Jeff


I have had some ask on parts needed for the G3X and running the edge912STI. I copied part numbers and what I could think of. Don't hold me to anything!

Throttle cable we ran the Mcfarlane MCTV3035-048. You will need a throttle arm. You can make one or get in touch with Brian, Aviatior79 and buy one from him.

ES-50054 from stein air. This is a pcb board that integrates the require resistors for rpm signal and oil pressure signal.

Intercooler. (edge will build you one) We bought a 915 takeoff. Rotax part number 888962


Oil to water heat exhanger https://www.batinc.net (https://www.batinc.net/) Laminova cooling by Sem c43-90 mocalusa.com


Silicone hose for heat exchanger 1.000" ID 90 Degree, 10" Legs
Siliconehose.com


Naca for intake and intercooler.
https://www.pro-werks.com (https://www.pro-werks.com/) (Had to modify the 7x14naca) C42-030 (https://www.pro-werks.com/partdetail/C42-030/)

Kitfox sold us a naca for the intake.

K&N Filter RU-830 (Summit Racing)

Intake temp guage.
UMA Temp Probe 1/8 NPT 1B1R Must be 1B1R. If it does not have and R it will not work. Recommend to order directly from UMA. You will also need 3/16" Barb to 1/8" Male NPT Adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DVFG5V5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Manifold Pressure.
UMAPressure Sender ABS 0-60 1/8”F NPT

EGTS Spruce part number 15-09438 IM-927 EGT TYPE K SENSOR 6ft.

Fuel Pressure.
(Kavlico P4055-50G-E4A)

Fuel Flow
(2) FT-60 fuel cubes


http://www.siliconeintakes.com/
Silicone Connectors= $33.98
1 x 2.0" Silicone 90° Elbow, Blue (SIL000029)
1 x 2' Mandrel Bent Aluminum 90° Bend, 2.0" (SIL000696) = $14.99
1 x 2.0" Silicone 135° Elbow, Blue (SIL000650) = $19.99
1 x 2.0" Silicone 1' Straight Hose, Blue (SIL000186) = $24.99
6 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.00" Silicone Parts (CLA000100) = $15.60 (I think the next size up would be better. Use 2.25 and one of the tclamps go to the next size above 2.25 for the throttle body connection.)

[Shadowrider]

Oh yeah, I've been thinking about how to put a trailing edge on the Monster shocks, too. Particularly that bare section. I'll be interested to know how much speed you get from that. Looks good!

I gained about 1mph. I noticed that there doesn't seem to be as much buffeting on the belly when going fast in a decent. At 5200 rpm I used to TAS of 105mph and now I am jumping between 106-07 but mostly hovering around 106mph. Made some more parts, and everything adds up but they seem to help TAS at 107mph now.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWmLrZs4aiFLZMBsnm8j8gCBmUupUaKD6bFN-U0mwHwkDUj_xRzkEWhuSPD_NF3hxdmlsw5J79W5kEi74Dm-9pxwNRKGCjT8NwBN7xHpRPS_po29DFcCBBsAcyUQTnEctdCGxZ Zjw6SgGV3DyUF6MetPw=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0

[Shadowrider]

ON TOP!

The landing spot is called ON TOP. Conditions have to be just right, and they where so we got both STI's on top. Landing is uphill so it short and takeoff you can fly down the canyon. Pretty fun!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEUydAAu3FaWVsKWAauaurVBhuuazyqirOSeaLqjCoYfmv q_ZJfcMFLHUknbxAEo0ms1v4v57eA2X66DaQDs5yIOfeFKNEFm QrlKdK4L7lsjEwmvOVLtkHb8fjyoiVb5nd0cH6BaHq2jtoTSaX tj9ZSCJw=w1812-h1019-no?authuser=0

[Shadowrider]

Shadowrider,

I have the same engine and had a few questions if you don't mind:

1. how did you get the Boost Temp in the Garmin? Which probe and where did you attach it?
2. I'm running a vernier throttle, but I have it it running through the 90° bend (which I hate). Did you have to do anything else special with the throttle arm Aviator97 made for you or was it pretty straightforward once you have that part.


Thank you so much,



Jeff

1. UMA Temp Probe 1/8 NPT 1B1R Must be 1B1R. If it does not have and R it will not work. Recommend to order directly from UMA. You will also need 3/16" Barb to 1/8" Male NPT Adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DVFG5V5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

It wires into the GEA-24 and then you can call it what you want. On Corys we ran two temp probes. One at the turbo and one after the intercooler. Interesting we see 250-270F before the intercooler and then after the intercooler around 110 to 120. (WOT Summertime temps) 130 degree temp drop across the intercooler....its doing its job! You need an aluminum bung and weld a bung into the charge tube after the intercooler. Then you screw in the 1/8NPT Temp probe. Keeping your intake temps down are very important on keeping your engine alive! I will post some photos if I can find them.


2. I did not run the 90 degree bend. I followed Scott Noble and built a throttle arm and ran a straight shot. I used two clamps, one to the other, to hold the cable housing. I bought a rotax cable clamp to clamp the cable to the throttle arm that allows it to pivot. I also don't prescribe to rotax's thinking that if your cable breaks it goes to full WOT so I removed the spring. In cruise with a fixed pitch prop, if my cable broke and went to WOT my engine would over-rev and grenade quicker than I could probably react.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWpUN7vY4-iOo0Ex8RiyJJS4Ly9wYuJLQqL9p3_4aG2Dbw9umQ0SZyty8FB7 IigFPfrM8g2gwVO3Un82mWWKrunsSzKKQapOXbF3xscgbeXDdo wVChU_euV7oEUx2fIHvuG3ahSTZQiRyRwv5biBqMoBw=w1359-h1019-no?authuser=0

You can see the probe right before hose that hooks to the throttle body.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWyvMx9SfDA3Q5nnfUn2XtSgcrOdNREjovbOto2cWigR6 6FmToJpIiHmUDjnlqa3wA6pEMJx8p4R2I8OhsO3J2F2jU0VVDF NscTbeZi8vgbaLcKfPlPHfFbTqAw3QBMWXOqLH9saE9w3yvU2v-WXsDRGw=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWqIRBNG9BdOiD6CGe6kAoUALDsoZ6yh__ar_2q0BeACf zKpfzjh6zfDsJF3mx0fbGS8MgJkrQwRLLjh4ilOedlwmNgGefP cIvChk9s00kOBrPZ1zXpUh7ienIr9zj3naaOycnMvJnx_bZxM-4Jca5o2w=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEVAH3Li4jcIR1B3FeWsR1060uMzqFnOHxEAXuYVlkikw--xyF71bSch0GwGBMERlSaiP9LsUuxBK79-9GRgahGccB9JPC0OPye9g3Z9dauCwzxkI75D-TvJ06zEFhqVnUcWFEZJG1rPE9crpYUEHI3NNg=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEU5L2lZnpXF41dK2rvdApb8Tah-GPrAOZMxOrdkbJ1o1dA_uEinT2pI7Pz1iP4Wz40t3qK4gmc42m VNNl7wtsvL-_ihQCUlxTqy9TTfLCPeX32hdpPf9aIfKUisQ-2CPoR2_Wm0rGM3tf6WS_svihxyRg=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEXkWis1p1OYVD-L3INIoNxE2zyv_Alq3Q-c_MmzGg0V3xMXNkWWFfg-EYtTCLh-IjaCfVYNgRSKri6iqcHPR9WIbf6QazWQSBlqhXfXzhmwIrJjRG XSKxc1BfA7QQZZAljLZ0OE5fr4LntMmvQ1A4N9qQ=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0

[Jquayle]

Thanks! I saw the list of parts, but wasn't sure the UMA probe was the one you were referencing for the Boost temp. Like your idea of measuring before and after the intercooler to measure efficiency. Definitely think I'll go that route. Appreciate the additional pictures as well. Not seeing the 1B1R part listing on the UMA site or anywhere online. I'll call directly and see if I have better luck. (Found the
UMA TEMP PROBE 1/8 NPT 1B1 NON TSO probe). What does the 'R' signify that makes it a requirement?



Jeff

[Shadowrider]

I had to call and order it. I ordered the one without the r and it didn’t work. Garmin manual states you need a resistant type sensor and I think that is what the R stand for.

[Jquayle]

Thanks for the info on the sensor. I'll contact them directly.



On Corys we ran two temp probes. One at the turbo and one after the intercooler. Interesting we see 250-270F before the intercooler and then after the intercooler around 110 to 120. (WOT Summertime temps) 130 degree temp drop across the intercooler....its doing its job! You need an aluminum bung and weld a bung into the charge tube after the intercooler. Then you screw in the 1/8NPT Temp probe.


Did you run the 2nd probe in the intercooler itself? Thinking it must be here?

30797

[Shadowrider]

Your link didn’t work? There is a port on the turbo, you can remove it and the probe screws right in. It’s on the compressor side.

[Jquayle]

I had to call and order it. I ordered the one without the r and it didn’t work. Garmin manual states you need a resistant type sensor and I think that is what the R stand for.

Called UMA - none in stock, ETA 4 weeks. Checked with about 10 of their distributors and none even had it in their system. $97 + $3% cc fee. Have the part on order.

Thanks again for the info. Neither Jason at BadAssPowersystems nor Mike at StolCreek knew which probe was needed. I think you just saved me several weeks or perhaps months trying to find the right part!


(for anyone else looking - sales@umainstruments was the email to inquire. Susie is the contact for sales)

[Jquayle]

Called UMA - none in stock, ETA 4 weeks.

Just a quick update - UMA had the part out to me in just over a week! In this day of supply shortages, it was nice to get something WAY ahead of the expected delivery date.



Dustin - if you see this, I tried to PM you but your message box is full and won't allow you to receive any new messages. I was going to ask about trying to source that throttle cable you had built. If you knew of anyone else that I might be able to get one from. I reached out to Aviator79 a few weeks ago, but haven't heard back yet.


JQ

[Shadowrider]

Sorry just cleaned the inbox. I got the throttle cable from McFarland. I think I posted it awhile back? I will look through photos tonight and see if I can find some info.

[Shadowrider]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEUvdP6g-JiB0UlZIYIdcjzmf_wIVUxojFJpO23VGK53VymxaU15oUfbGOv hUlLMzlNfRqvWRdFoZ5HB42SaGxeJ7zZXKwXx6kW4J_chNA7fi Ohc2MfMMEDURnramQ43KoreB-e1aTb3SUCB17P0hZUihA=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0

[Jquayle]

Dustin,

Thanks for the throttle cable part number. I sent you a DM as well.


JQ

[Jez]

This build thread is second to none, fair play

[Shadowrider]

Gap seals have been working awesome. Shortens takeoff distance and landing distance because you have more tail. Also lowers stall speed power off....kind of. Power off it enables you to get closer to the stall because you have more tail power off versus the buffeting and nose lowering before the stall. After about 100 hours no visible wear on the fabric. I have had them in 0F to 80F and seem to be working good! I have had frost and frozen dew with no issues with them freezing up. Not saying they cant freeze, but so far so good. Pushed them out to check wear on the fabric.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWmjFfwbyST96tCvD-yr8BO8UggSQtjJeGPUfzgbU5rmroXUtGJLaUgLtW7FRki7BL9x 0lETQt2m7_qg6kceLOzkw9QfIacNXv2zb1jFLnwj8P4KCGfufq q_19V-UsG3lJhp41HoYf0VEmc0qPxOzkz0Q=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEV9nqty-O5zY4SnCpZUZ-33rz0KzX0XSgXnrTxrTG2079pW_ugGToacJznwfTF2OcH6NdgB huA1Xco40K97JEIRYi3Dr8Q7eYom_Rl1dyiyqKMOJfPZJsUyVN rxENfCT-80Bwkb3RXfy6uE5uPmEHOUmw=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0


Getting night current on new landing spot we found.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWZEzpF_q_7v2OUrYPkM66ySu4GF-3yLpSxJe4sM639aA0oA0laV4LG9MMYPXix7C0Refy1D93oqwQP gFR0p4F3p63SjYUMViA5ug3cvaNhtQJNzZ6jiyqgWccXw80Ehg ESeWqWoFOsuPsNF1bQY6lYWQ=w1359-h1019-no?authuser=0

[jiott]

Dustin, are these the Cubcrafters gap seals? If so, have you done hard slips and do they stay in? Mine didn't.

[Kitfox Pilot]

They sure do look nice. Wish I had a printer. Haha

[Eric Page]

Dustin, did you post the STL files for your gap seals on Thingiverse?

[Shadowrider]

No, these are 3d printed out of TPU.

[Shadowrider]

They sure do look nice. Wish I had a printer. Haha

FLSUN SR is around 400$

[Shadowrider]

Dustin, did you post the STL files for your gap seals on Thingiverse?

Yes! Search for "Garage door seals." I don't want the "liability" or I would be willing to print some for others. One concern I have printing my design is clearance. I only have one layer of oratex they are going over? It took me a dozen versions to get the spacing right and design right.

[Eric Page]

Found it. Thank you!

[mmadigan]

FLSUN SR is around 400$

Is that what you printed these on?

[Shadowrider]

Yes. When printing tpu you have to print very slow. I can send my config file if you want to try printing?

[tylerhamm]

Im actually waiting for my roll of TPU to show up, and then I will be trying these out as well if you wouldn't mind sending the config file over? Would be much appreciated!

[mmadigan]

Yes. When printing tpu you have to print very slow. I can send my config file if you want to try printing?

i may hit you up for that. It looks like I can buy the printer for the cost I was quoted to print them. Are you by chance running it on a Mac? What software are you running?

[Shadowrider]

Im actually waiting for my roll of TPU to show up, and then I will be trying these out as well if you wouldn't mind sending the config file over? Would be much appreciated!

PM me your email and I will email the TPU config I used. For TPU you have to turn the heat up and slow it way down.

[Shadowrider]

i may hit you up for that. It looks like I can buy the printer for the cost I was quoted to print them. Are you by chance running it on a Mac? What software are you running?

Curra is the slicer and I am on a PC. Not sure if it works on Mac?

[Shadowrider]

Had a really cool flight! I flew over this area awhile back and noticed this old remnants of what looked like a city located out in the middle of Utah desert. Decided to investigate more so I threw in the one-wheel and found some BLM land next to the Topaz national monument using the Huntx app. Located an area sufficient to land. Jumped on the one-wheel and went exploring. Found a nice dirt road that took me pretty close. Quite humbling to say the least when I learned what this was. I want to go back and do more exploring. Crazy what you see when flying!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWd_C26167fbhJimI98b8apsk5nh0L4G0wJYqCXDu57yk hP60NW5bDock8EeP6Esoly7iGmNf7F2ha0ImlmmgNZOQakqH3M yJCaTmGKQ-mGWRqemM0TU-jG-FsMsMjwI3NBX04_iTslNcH604cRv16QGA=w1359-h1019-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEVTh6e5-uBcQy-MscscUpKsT54ZG2fND11JuS49OkSPGqGA2xHUDlzLzDDwljXgl czp_FDwYlyErhSrba-nGxSqB9mYsGgBySnaSZOMp5E_6bhIWdnX-uyjTajgQ8WzOHgT5JnUUlsij-grAx9rokL3bQ=w1359-h1019-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEW1VzB3t13F7MYUygKY5pi4NUW29Gsr3qwWC8C51VwazP V0p5QSqp5694E6hcMeybYK7c8vuwqgJKre9SNoE6Pq4GY52mXN-EMFwZdJDR8BRMQvuBuASiDhVkvQ9L-FbMRgsQATGJ1rQeHmQaJpmx-aZQ=w1359-h1019-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEX18qhMFnyRNWB78S4eeZe99Rg3Fa0WGZf8-hST8sDlyZ-cJoofEE8Lr_YArVkZhdhO9qy3gdpoUVnbyclASHWvkgNu4KnDp uT1pTgw6z0WFeT80Fqqk6rc4iyp_BMtAPwMuE-YerlAYisbqvVDvVdo5A=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEXRIFgM2Ng7jnny3XTcFDHVsj5n91_brwoWE0qo240G34 WRWHdsmjJ6dLN-pyn7ePG0PgEy1vB_T6OozKzOBXIQbZ9b-iU4DWqszxfjk99tXI1IdKgj0gchLavA2K_JSw0jtNCD6zPGcAR NdNdrwM8SUA=w1359-h1019-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWBNOHp8O6z61bTmhIrV9UAqayZwl9-WKXRzOd-JQe2v6eJPm9DEd4AaQ2w7C81zxBDFueA8OELXpQkk3i-QxwJZvS7WQt8KXg2b-UgSC4j5J0aXvPnHgwE-3jMctib_90qlN99p3-0i7JAXpz3Gl2L_w=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0

[Pushboy]

Wow -- what an awesome post! I've followed your build and advice to others and it always seems top notch -- thanks for inspiring myself (and I'm sure others) with the build and the amazing adventures that are probably at the core of why we all want a Kitfox -- to explore the world around us, and all the discovery that entails.

Also -- for what it's worth, I'm on a mac and use Cura for my 3d printing all the time. Getting TPU the way you want it is all about the settings/config.

Thanks again -- amazing!

[mmadigan]

Dustin,

You may have gone over it earlier in your build process. Do you mind sharing the empty weight of your STI? If you could go back, would you do the same engine or go to a 915 (or something different)? I’ve got a model 7 SS with a hopped up Lycon O-200 (130hp), just kind of kicking around a re-engine program. With the O-200, I’m right at 875lbs empty. If I could maintain that power with less weight (and a turbo!) it would be awesome.

Thank you again for your time.

[Shadowrider]

I am 879 Lbs. Turbo engines are not for everyone but I have loved my engine. If I where to build again I would use the same engine. Don't get me wrong the 915 is a great engine, I just like the weight and power advantage of the EP912STI. At the power setting I am running I am around 160-165hp... according to Thomas's dyno. But....that comes with some risk. The advantages of the 915 is its turn key engine. It also has many redundancies built into it, but with that comes the weight penalty. If you want a turn key engine the 915 is a great option. There is some tuning and setting boost settings you have to initially setup, but I enjoy the ability to adjust the engine. I think I need 200hp now though

[yocum137]

Dustin - I've got some time to kill waiting to buy my engine (Rotax stopped taking orders for the 915 until Jan 1, 2023 :cringe:) so I'm printing gap seals.

How many of each do I need to print?

11hrs for the long one! :eek:

Thanks!
Dan


[QUOTE=Shadowrider;103790]Gap seals are done! Test flew it yesterday and they made a huge difference. Feels like the elevator is much larger. Tail comes up quicker, and less prop wash buffeting on steep climb-out. I now have significantly more tail authority, which means I can stall slower (power off because I don't run out of tail) but with that the stall breaks a lot harder. Nose drops hard. Will have to get used to that. My landing was a little wonky because I couldn't figure out why I was teetering and realized my tail was on the ground but my mains where still in the air. Usually if I land tail first is when I am trying to get really short and I pull hard at the last second and the tail will touch first. Its noticeably faster also! I changed too many things at once to be ably to give accurate numbers. Modified the static guard. My theory is at high power settings, high cruise I am getting prop wash pressurizing the static port, so a little guard seems to be giving more accurate indicated airspeed readings. Low end speeds are accurate before, but topend speeds seem to be off. It was way to ruff yesterday to check the numbers but I will shortly.
[/QUOTE

[Shadowrider]

They take forever to print but worth it!

You need 2 of the ones with the hole. Two of the short ones and 6 of the long ones. Takes about a week to print them all.

How many of each do I need to print?

11hrs for the long one! :eek:

Thanks!
Dan



Gap seals are done! Test flew it yesterday and they made a huge difference. Feels like the elevator is much larger. Tail comes up quicker, and less prop wash buffeting on steep climb-out. I now have significantly more tail authority, which means I can stall slower (power off because I don't run out of tail) but with that the stall breaks a lot harder. Nose drops hard. Will have to get used to that. My landing was a little wonky because I couldn't figure out why I was teetering and realized my tail was on the ground but my mains where still in the air. Usually if I land tail first is when I am trying to get really short and I pull hard at the last second and the tail will touch first. Its noticeably faster also! I changed too many things at once to be ably to give accurate numbers. Modified the static guard. My theory is at high power settings, high cruise I am getting prop wash pressurizing the static port, so a little guard seems to be giving more accurate indicated airspeed readings. Low end speeds are accurate before, but topend speeds seem to be off. It was way to ruff yesterday to check the numbers but I will shortly.
[/QUOTE

[Shadowrider]

Speed mods update:

Shock monster fairings, Cabane gear fairings, horizontal strut fairlings, brake fairings, 6-7mph. Flying next two Cory who has not put these on yet with identical power settings and rpms I am seeing 6-7 mph TAS faster.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEW7jaVl_tqP3cKAb9fJ8gKPW-GX5AaLg5CIcYW5LFjtFLEJY5nPqDHFIF9LswsVfvonl6vf_7wG 1z3VTyQmM_kv8o7fYmJcQPBzBbt_a-edolvCWCNWioUfSSsQo9fa8YW96uYRMfdHkqwX_KQTZK-clQ=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEUv34WXBnSuZzYmnOpJwrdSCTlPgscYx1wuuO4Au4rsoR mKqGAUaTl1vzzXXXf4jvFG6dNjaGru1p0jtoHSolD8ofiCPexY GHrwm8CdbsvdKaKZQcXJFqXnq6ySggpQhBWLb71r30xZMeWspa kCWBvVRQ=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEXVBsZTcSU7F601QHXsUSEISy2KNjgIt6yXpRBH3vJDaB I4--kE1WYo2MQl2JazNt62ndLWJHxsQcSg44jTtEmhncHjAFXHxXs0 k2Q1gMbkeUBz2dlrPbuNM-NpyiA_Xr7nBxt7kDieEM82A5611rE9LA=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEUifTh6f3KseX8DdyX-3hOJiSAr_Ubx19sofo3rWTam_YLYMHaqiJqZXh6rg3Ypayvbbt B_rQQamx9SRXRfloOdcZGM_ERrfyDRxXUkn9O9iTKcMqyBgloe usS-7EuNQWrAcmtcENhv8jHupaheBSKzRQ=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEUBePbJJnC7ziVRCxNzk8n4tj2Yq-BmPDe_u52E_X2UKPMCx4Ghpk6TIQmJ4Foq3MkXGs8WcnMGmtbz 95qTNTUH9kpCAemr-AhhaxasTVmCX-alOSPA-86_LRTbV_dYWZTFnCLRQ2cwLUCDdBLI_OxSAw=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0

[Kitfox Pilot]

[QUOTE=Shadowrider;106531]Speed mods update:

Shock monster fairings, Cabane gear fairings, horizontal strut fairlings, brake fairings, 6-7mph. Flying next two Cory who has not put these on yet with identical power settings and rpms I am seeing 6-7 mph TAS faster.

QUOTE]

Speed and they look great too!

[FoxbuilderWill]

I've heard that drag reduction also helps with climb performance.
Have you noticed that side by side with Cory?

[Shadowrider]

That would make sense. I weigh less than Cory so I usually have him on the climb. I would assume the increase in climb would be very minimal and probably not able to accurately measure?

My latest thing I have been working on is when you climb really steep like 55 IAS or slower we get lots of feedback from the stick. Prop wash is hitting the tail and causing it to shake. This shaking wears out or damages the plastic sliding block in the horizontal stab. As the tail shakes it impacts the slider and dents it causing more gap. I have gotten quite a bit of play in my tail, so I took the block out, and replaced it. Only lasted a couple flights before play shows back up. If you look closely at the picture you can seen how damaged the end is. I think with more HP the more it gets damaged. I decided to try 3d printing a slider block out of TPU after seeing how strong the stuff is. I have about 10 hours and 20 takeoff and landings with it and it has zero play. TPU has flex so when the propwash is hitting it hard, it has some give, instead of denting it. I will keep testing and report back if I see anything of concern, but so far its been great. Reduced the stick shake on WOT steep climbs. I put it on thingiverse for anyone that wants to print it.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5662547

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEUGSO6wYeHOTF-DhuE3jCC_n_MLRp7ljRZpM0dxoZQd6FIiX1DCjb_J7ZAzuHE5a Ovuo2SxJspkVVPHLjhRr21aFgqip2U-Bz6NL3AC_V23jvIVyvMiWbkVTtIknZvNmqf93_NL9UtMtJj0Rv AZUwJrQA=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWcLb5RIFDdaQYbExi2sGZ7lkQB1rFZlnHnOatTcNANH0 nu7k5x20OQtHl9f_SS705WM4B_6FpixstajW6HofD6wod8ZBw0 Fzr4zDTXU_PvUF07aFjEShH8qM-0HWcatZTLT0kAkheXvdFGzRHBdVYirw=w765-h1019-no?authuser=0

[Shadowrider]

Flying pictures!

Little Sahara sand dunes.................... feels like your on another planet.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWC7f8FcUP77NJk6zTGCf5P2zxk0EF0is7mFfUDctEgi_ bqYB3V_nrucDaZjM02izOq8Q51ht09FT5JbP88e18-ShQnfVblElaylumqdO-yDZnKJrcNdrNMObmTQrf2tA6cA3TFwQVrxOHFm3UTUU3WlQ=w1 614-h1020-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEU2y285h8Yv9NQDZSSJo-a_4vdfIw3nd6MCRG4dzwU_lHvGUKheEwnD5Udk3DOzPvDiyEbD duaTCCi38harDO8o7R4T7U8T4omYJK-YlKCXSa0D0GAvgbzxktGB8v8xmtaQh6L41jO8-IGoT6leJ62YAg=w1812-h1020-no?authuser=0

[Kitfox Pilot]

[QUOTE=Shadowrider;106552]That would make sense. I weigh less than Cory so I usually have him on the climb. I would assume the increase in climb would be very minimal and probably not able to accurately measure?

My latest thing I have been working on is when you climb really steep like 55 IAS or slower we get lots of feedback from the stick. Prop wash is hitting the tail and causing it to shake. This shaking wears out or damages the plastic sliding block in the horizontal stab. As the tail shakes it impacts the slider and dents it causing more gap. I have gotten quite a bit of play in my tail, so I took the block out, and replaced it. Only lasted a couple flights before play shows back up. If you look closely at the picture you can seen how damaged the end is. I think with more HP the more it gets damaged. I decided to try 3d printing a slider block out of TPU after seeing how strong the stuff is. I have about 10 hours and 20 takeoff and landings with it and it has zero play. TPU has flex so when the propwash is hitting it hard, it has some give, instead of denting it. I will keep testing and report back if I see anything of concern, but so far its been great. Reduced the stick shake on WOT steep climbs. I put it on thingiverse for anyone that wants to print it.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:566254 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5662547)

I'm glad you posted this because I have been thinking Mine was the only one that did the shake thing on a hard slower climb. I was blaming mine on the prop but if yours does it too it's just a thing I guess.

[Eric Page]

The horizontal stab slider in this airplane is a pretty primitive, low cost design. Its function is very much dependent on the fit-up achieved by the builder when installing the Delrin blocks, and it's apparently subject to rapid deterioration if the plane is flown at the edges of the performance envelope.

A better design would rigidly mount the stab to a small linear bearing running on a precision-ground chromed rod. It would weight a little bit more, but it would constrain the stab against hammering in turbulent airflow. It's probably not a difficult retrofit for someone with some fabrication and welding skills (not me, in other words!).

[Geek]

........A better design would rigidly mount the stab to a small linear bearing running on a precision-ground chromed rod. It would weight a little bit more, but it would constrain the stab against hammering in turbulent airflow. It's probably not a difficult retrofit for someone with some fabrication and welding skills (not me, in other words!).


Dang it Eric!! I was digging my credit card out to put in my order from you!!!

[airlina]

Also check your rod end bearings on the aft ends of the horizontal stab brace. I have found they wear and start getting sloppy so i've replaced them several times in the last 19 years . Bruce N199CL

[jrevens]

Good advice Bruce. Don't forget to give those a couple of drops of Tri-Flow during annual condition inspections at least.

Is that "hammering" an issue with just the STI, or have others experienced it too? I never have in my 7SS. I would be very cautious about flying at an attitude, speed & flap setting that creates that kind of disrupted flow over the tail. Not only is it probably pretty hard on the structure, but it wouldn't be fun to suffer a stalled horizontal tail that's creating a lot of downward force to maintain that attitude, and suddenly you're hanging from the seat belts and looking at the ground, especially at lower altitudes. I don't know what the possibility of it happening in a Kitfox is, but I unexpectedly experienced it in another design during a test flight. It's called a "bunt" and it wasn't very fun when it's unexpected, and especially when low to the ground. If you've been there you know what I mean.

[Shadowrider]

My experience is pretty limited in regards to the 7SS, but I know both our STI's do it. I also know Trent's does it as well along with the factory STI. I don't think it has to do with the wing though, but the engine. I think its the spiraling of the prop wash wrapping around fuselage on high power settings on turbo engines. I think the spiraling prop wash reaches farther and shakes the tail. Really cant avoid it on takeoff unless you want to takeoff low power, but that would be silly! On my maiden I about aborted it thinking I had a imbalanced prop or something else. We messaged Brandon and Trent and they said I think you are just feeling the prop wash. Its really not a issue, just others running 915 or Edge engines be aware that you will get feedback in your control stick on high AOA's like takeoffs or steep climbs. Once you start getting play in the tail slider, seems to wear out the delrin making "stick shaking" worse. So far the TPU is working awesome. The only play I have now in the tail is the slight play in the trim motor.

[Kitfox Pilot]

Good advice Bruce. Don't forget to give those a couple of drops of Tri-Flow during annual condition inspections at least.

Is that "hammering" an issue with just the STI, or have others experienced it too? I never have in my 7SS. I would be very cautious about flying at an attitude, speed & flap setting that creates that kind of disrupted flow over the tail. Not only is it probably pretty hard on the structure, but it wouldn't be fun to suffer a stalled horizontal tail that's creating a lot of downward force to maintain that attitude, and suddenly you're hanging from the seat belts and looking at the ground, especially at lower altitudes. I don't know what the possibility of it happening in a Kitfox is, but I unexpectedly experienced it in another design during a test flight. It's called a "bunt" and it wasn't very fun when it's unexpected, and especially when low to the ground. If you've been there you know what I mean.


John I don't notice any hammering just my stick vibrates in my hand where it is normally very smooth otherwise. This is at an extreme AOA and full 5800rpm in my case. I can drop to 5500 rpm and it goes away. That's why I was blaming it on prop vibration but maybe it is the prop blast. I am still not sure. In my case It's not an attitude you accidently get into, it's beyond a 45% steep full power climb out.
It doesn't happen on a normal 1500 fpm takeoff climb out. Harlan

[airlina]

Good advice Bruce. Don't forget to give those a couple of drops of Tri-Flow during annual condition inspections at least.

Is that "hammering" an issue with just the STI, or have others experienced it too? I never have in my 7SS. I would be very cautious about flying at an attitude, speed & flap setting that creates that kind of disrupted flow over the tail. Not only is it probably pretty hard on the structure, but it wouldn't be fun to suffer a stalled horizontal tail that's creating a lot of downward force to maintain that attitude, and suddenly you're hanging from the seat belts and looking at the ground, especially at lower altitudes. I don't know what the possibility of it happening in a Kitfox is, but I unexpectedly experienced it in another design during a test flight. It's called a "bunt" and it wasn't very fun when it's unexpected, and especially when low to the ground. If you've been there you know what I mean.

Hi John , Like you , I have not experienced this issue on my IO-240 powered Series 5, and was interested to see whats causing this on the new STI's. The wear on Dustin's delrin was an eye opener. Hope they can find the source of this anamoly. Bruce N199CL

[jiott]

I don't experience this vibration on my 7SS with 912uls, but over about 10 years, 1200 hours, my Delrin slider blocks developed some minor wear which caused some side-t0-side slop in the horizontal. Instead of replacing the blocks, I applied a single layer of some heavy duty 3M Teflon anti-chafe tape to each side of the square tube where the blocks ride. It totally eliminated the slop and has not come loose for several years now. I am thinking the Delrin to Teflon wear surface will last nearly forever. Anyway, FYI a simple easy solution if you catch it before the slop gets too bad.

[yocum137]

Speed mods update:

Shock monster fairings, Cabane gear fairings, horizontal strut fairlings, brake fairings, 6-7mph. Flying next two Cory who has not put these on yet with identical power settings and rpms I am seeing 6-7 mph TAS faster.


Those look awesome! Any chance you'd be willing to share those STL files? :cool:

[Jcard]

Friend is making shock fairings for me, due to my lack of talent.

[Shadowrider]

Those look awesome! Any chance you'd be willing to share those STL files? :cool:

Yeah I will put them on thingiverse

[Shadowrider]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEUYud_Qorjplrmw0LZQQlsANK_b9DuoDTKpilrHDBXuVt 89bnECAQN0aylCbAmzZE0KlG9pCGINbmSWQhudIu9AsB5NlsZV 2SMBneabKcE8V3CpLv93LtcBWGfRAb-lp9B1MErsdTt7_aICbXtNLzz-kg=w1359-h1019-no?authuser=0

Fun in the snow! Be careful in deeper snow, stick needs to stay back.

[yocum137]

Jealous! :) How deep was it? 8"?

[airlina]

Living and flying in western NY from a farm strip , (a bit south of Buffalo) I get a lot of in snow experience. I have straight skis that I will install when I know the snow is here to stay and won't melt away , because its a bit of a chore to do the changeover (not something you want to do repeatedly during the winter season.) So I stay on tires sometimes the whole winter and fly regularly. With my Desser little tundras I can do up to 4 or 5 inches if the snow is powder , but be careful, because if while you are out flying on a sunny day you return later to land , and the snow has become even a bit compacted or slushy , you will be in for a surprise. Know thy conditions and don't assume they will stay the same throught the day. Remember "good judgement comes from experience, and experience comes from the LACK of good judgement." Bruce N199CL

[Shadowrider]

Snow was about 6”. I have been in 12” of snow but it’s gets a little sketchy. I have learned you don’t want to try and drag a tire, even in utah powder it wants to grab you. I prefer to land tail first and use the tail wheel to help keep tail down. Taking off in deep snow it’s best to takeoff on your own trail. I will only land in snow when it’s below freezing and I know it’s powder unless it’s only a couple inches. Practicing spot landings is pretty fun in the snow!

[Kitfox Pilot]

I'll bet its a smooth landing! Great Picture.

[Shadowrider]

Not much to update on the planes. Cory just did an oil change and the oil sample is looking good. Leakdown is 80/80. We are working on a new home for the planes.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaWc9M3GLQWwfCaKdqT-FouXFTv6mEj77NS_j2lMI3mFFBP-FNDtbvs5vs32KqZ2J_DzZ2rZHSG08v1b7hywpNZcp2NvIXZd1D zeMv61Y_SmgBNdqvSF17vH76scFzlQxvlwg4fP_XuoCBK3njZt YICDnA=w1359-h1019-s-no?authuser=0

A few cub guys have been asking so I put the Shock Monster Fairings I drew up in solidworks on thingiverse. They are good for a couple MPH's! Okay...maybe 1.;)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaW8C3lRFnfOvPR29b-Vw18hwS02oQSN-i7Bm4J09lc1T5mHu5etdrYXSsF4vxYVE9TVsT2vQD4sGJvJb9X 8af1ChoiW49KA1pupTqsNomHRpSqZXZS2Tevs-2RyDej9l_kiodOYgJUrDAIb6N2uukq9jA=w764-h1019-s-no?authuser=0

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5991333

[Shadowrider]

IDAHO! Awesome trip. Hit lots of strips but my new favorite is Simonds. Kitfox do great in the backcountry. We based out of Johnson Creek. Camping was awesome. One night we where hit with thunderstorms. Couple pictures and a few video clips from the trip. After long cross countries I am really considering adjustable rudder trim.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaXA_rkW6AIoYC5_GP-f_oxm5wIrFWvrRuAKQFOx19V6z02TOJBd8llXC7UZgGUAPL2BH qxJv8gJeMayZwbLGPVUd-TJWx6B9zPU0keghmz-32mjDHwZ5NuhjDeRh0EQbZyTN-Ac2TBSUkUbE9KQGajlgw=w1359-h1019-s-no?authuser=0


https://youtu.be/-WIeDEgb3vI


https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ImIY_E9tz88

[Clark in AZ]

Nice! Looks like a lot of fun. Thanks for posting them!

Clark

[Pushboy]

Hey Dustin -- Cool photos and video. Idaho is pretty awesome, eh?

Curious about your ideas for rudder trim. As installed after a plane is completed or how you might do it during a build?

Dave.

[bbs428]

Great content Dustin. Really gets the juices flowing seeing it 1st hand on those approaches.

Planes are looking good!

[Shadowrider]

Hey Dustin -- Cool photos and video. Idaho is pretty awesome, eh?

Curious about your ideas for rudder trim. As installed after a plane is completed or how you might do it during a build?

Dave.

I am thinking of doing RC servo with a servo controller. I will let you know what I come up with.

https://teamkitfox.com/Forums/threads/12497-Kitfox-Trim-Tabs-to-Fly-By-Wire

[Shadowrider]

Thanks Brett! Idaho is awesome, but very rugged.

[Shadowrider]

New exhaust is on! We changed out both exhaust on both our planes. My exhaust has been collapsing and warping causing alignment issues. Looks like rotax knew about this problem as there is a SB from awhile back but I must have missed it. Thomas from Edge Performance sent us out a new exhaust. This is the lastest version that he is making. Its going from 20ga to 16ga wall thickness. Also put a video together of some drone shots we got of flying.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc8qNUZQS2xyf-lj4iytPHWLAlTzbnZyDb2Ajbn6Zoe-AlGMMcIqG4LBDF0MOdy8UPRdbDNYyDN1IaENRuBhEoo8WR_Z46 zIlEA92eSgUV6nvITu6r566pNEbIdZp0G1D8AkuLarBEN22Xw8 l8I79eXPag=w1359-h1019-s-no?authuser=0


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ETbbC944y0&lc=Ugx5lBVuPdO_Uh8OZ8p4AaABAg

[Shadowrider]

Flying Updates! Another successful trip to Idaho. We camped at JC and spent the week flying all over! Hit the hot-springs at Lower Loon for the first time. Landed at Marble Canyon for the first time also. Flew with some Carbon cubs and had a great time. We had to make a unscheduled trip to Kitfox to pickup a new earthx battery for Scott. Based on what I have seen I think I will be replacing mine a little sooner than recommended? When I was at kitfox I was asking about the rudder servo Brandon installed. Jason was there and said he would take me up so I could try flying with it and see if I like it. I have been working on doing a linear actuator for trim, but I am scrapping that and just going to do a rudder servo. If you are building, I would highly recommend putting in a rudder servo. You can run it as a Yaw Damp by itself or you can have a 3 axis autopilot, which will be awesome for cross countries. I will post the install process and let you know how it goes! Couple other flying adventures. I flew to Southern Utah to Boulder, and rode the onewheel to check out a cool waterfall. Also flew to IBEX lakebed for the eclipse and the flying they had! Fall flying is awesome!



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHdSmZk2rLYU77JhP8caDs29eNL3Jg_Vp1X92VCYukiW6Q NN4IRu2icWR5hZc0m30MKWHsT9eoZgvWHefgJYnLqbhOfK-lLdldYx42iIa41c0P84t7mNE8XydsjUZKgGSRYsZH3G1BsAm9R g_1k3TIoMrg=w1359-h1019-s-no?authuser=0



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHdjUHZz8w_5HvBVWYUEJ7M_FEZNZv7ghd4C-Ae_q33y7QNTJquQA_J_v4PG5fxjDWz_rLRdVLAEQYmsQxoT3TF WI2Fukws8c1l-cgT941r7lsfXAhV6m-HmNNImbKbv52fcLvBI9h1fJOJ0Bl5IBQjF7g=w1359-h1019-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHdIqQQp125QWwgQ4mUEAoENSFWl_8oKG-aO1k3Mbuq8WNUnvCUIbMErfnDWuITSMeo6-tfsJrGU3WrNkHcYR6GVtM3wYoRu7HGvZfaYPy-NdNSK7bi0KguoXgQlARpuU_1ka3ZrohHGhedRsXn6o5sibQ=w7 64-h1019-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHe7BXNGjQ6Fpc4xRBq1t-p71HolbHHXmobW1vVENrtQ5hod16FrGeuI_361vh3BKi2ZIsUA BvM8QINy7AW95A9c2vxdfBRQbrII4167tgYZtYUi2Zy_fa3aZg ypZDA-jMp502o-zRhrzlMcZrg0VKDZ1w=w1359-h1019-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHe986XH5zPmWcrjqDM9OXol70W2AZwOABG6KdALyLeR-VldHxvmEB2lqoeTsIVaqBExbFMh0NY3n8pyvM1pu_E4ICm4N1f 1gg2Fq6khg_jBJFr8mgoItXySulWJy0-VepnPQw_uk528CwAG4hcAeoftYw=w1359-h1019-s-no?authuser=0


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHdXrxK92JlF3EgmK0gxiZUom7s2r5c8P5gjDr6hT8DB24 hcZep9VFGiJnl23o0h_5E-4dGw6ePdHqhEqXZcRYfDhjGrIzaKsJwlRnzkyVGW0P6tzXbXrC K0lsuSI58gZteLVxjVDU6oEHhJFHc2j9gANg=w1359-h1019-s-no?authuser=0

[jiott]

Curious about Scott's EarthX battery failure. How many hours on it and what were the symptoms just prior to failure? Reason I ask is that my EarthX is around 600+ hours and my battery warning light comes on occasionally and then goes off; voltage is steady at 14 v and it starts just fine, but I am somewhat concerned due to age and warnings.

[Shadowrider]

The battery started to swell. Earthx recommends you replace them every 6 years. Scott was due for a new battery.

[jiott]

Thanks Dustin, I will keep a close watch for any swelling. Mine is about 6 years old also.

[Shadowrider]

Personally I would just change it out. It’s had a good run!

[Shadowrider]

All the parts including plastic bags......2.5 pounds to add yaw damp. Not bad! Going to be a little tricky to install on a finished aircraft. Super excited though for autopilot on cross-country's!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHec8MrfJRN-wFR6QybgkOtZNf6IWmqS3InseVoUYRDN5sJbYsyI4l_r2Ye4dw 6GOC9OYhN_kf7hrnJG_M_h-J-MwssFOAm0dGIBL3ZM5PEje5vAljCb5ug_suFWAnpJAKj9KCaJd mb0fvmVaHeFYbLYdg=w1359-h1019-s-no?authuser=0

[Geek]

You know we are out here watching Dustin!!!

Gary

[Shadowrider]

Fun to be back building! The rudder servo kit is well put together with good instructions. Wiring was a pain, but I got wiring done today. Kind of tricky getting wire laced up the side of the fuselage. There was a rudder cable clamp missing so kitfox is sending me the missing part. Should be up test flying soon. The can-bus is still communication correctly and it recognized the YD! I spliced into the can bus after the pitch servo and before my remote mount radio.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHeBkuAd5WrVcq_LocQlCSGGk11_ID_tAEpW1IU8EPyknI RAkWCNzT6vMCDXZZGXEGeydCQ4hTq--xevyFeyynk2kIp1V4UxkNFpuckfdxkkjSu8eEQJ6bjJDf4d9uZ pmtfiiCGvF9-8mHvfDH-d-0CkMw=w1359-h1019-s-no?authuser=0

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https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHd-8Yf4o4f45ICWaBMt8UKBKP2nxfagWK5x-OmDBVDAnW0OFn55WabsM0SP_fd87zBc2s_jCsEJ6YjsZy_2kg6 MQBoF2kUvff50yaHYAGnGxcfVmpMi8fEKeGW7g0dlQG6QLeDKm RnQehbGF0iQ8fjh6w=w1359-h1019-s-no?authuser=0

[Jez]

Nice, thanks for the update

[Shadowrider]

Yam Damp installed and test flown! Its sweet! It holds the ball centered quite well. I flew 45min doing climbs, descents, and turns with the feet on the floor. I spent 45 min tuning it and have it pretty good. There are some advanced tuning in the G3x that you can adjust. I turned up the ball centering gain, which kept the ball centered great. I programed a couple way-points into the G3x and it navigated and turned to each way-point with the feet on the floor. There is an expert setting that will remove lateral acceleration that I think I will play with a bit more. When in turbulence sometimes you hit a bump and the ball goes a half of ball out before coming back centered. I think if I increase the "Accel Filter Constant" this will improve this. I want to do a cross country do some more tuning on it. Once I get the settings tuned in I was thinking I should post all my autopilot settings. Originally in the wiring diagram it states the autopilot disconnect wire is optional for the yaw damp. I was thinking the G3X logic would disconnect the YD when you push the autopilot disconnect switch so I didn't wire this up. Well.....when you disconnect the autopilot using the disconnect button, the YD stays on. With the autopilot on it was hard to overcome the YD and on the ground and that is not good. I decided to go back and run a wire from the disconnect switch to the servo so that you could quickly disconnect the YD without having to press the YD button on the autopilot. So anyone who is going to install this I would say the disconnect wire is not optional.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHeyBn9W8-ZrRoY7gaPRKvZJ7CweBoJlSGJJkhRGpdsNOStDVZzGFUSGJOK3 Zd8dEmgZQMfKTkwvvHQrHUE2kkiZrADdRqvNVuu4gzAiDRPIw_ tRHl3cbFG1hZIHjg3F_3YE5uRGNsNhRATXqzryFHY95w=w785-h1047-s-no?authuser=0

[Jason Murphy]

Looks like this is something that came along just in time. After wrapping up my wings I will be working on installing the avionics.

[Billiken]

I’m interested in the system as well. Do you happen to know if there is a way to set it up so that it would disconnect if a certain amount of foot pressure is applied to a rudder pedal? It could obviously happen that I could forget to disconnect it before landing. I would probably use the same quick disconnect button for the auto pilot and yaw damper. It all sounds very useful. Thanks for the write up.

[Geek]

Great Gouge Dustin!!! Especially how you worked getting the YD to keep up with the ball. Certainly your set-up on the G3x will help all of us get a leg up on this. I talked to Brandon about how he liked his and his analogy was "It's like heated seats, once you have them you'll never be without." He also said he was 'still tuning in' his set up a bit so it's like the rest of the G3x set up; a process.

Thanks for the update.

Gary

[Shadowrider]

For sure the yaw damp is sweet! If you have the autopilot installed or are installing it you defiantly want the YD. I was a little hesitant because I thought you would be able to feel the yd when not on, but there is no noticeable difference or drag on the pedals. I was also a little hesitant because the one I test flew the ball was slightly out. Jason said they hadn't tuned it so I was confident that I could tune that out. The problem is there is some advance settings and garmin doesn't give you much info on them so its more trial and error. The main gain also effects each other settings so as you turn one gain up I found that you have turn turn other gains down. Without the YD the autopilot was nice but you still had to fly the plane, using rudder. Now I would say that its a true full autopilot! I agree with Brandon, once you have it, you will never want to go back. Just a note garmin has a note that the YD cannot replace a properly trimmed airplane. So, you still need a trim tab to try and have the plane fly as straight as you can. I setup mine to fly straight at cruise power mid weight.

[bbs428]

Cool stuff Dustin. Some great info!
A retrofit for me will be a pita as well - but from your positive report, it will be worth it.

I'll definitely be adding the YD to my wish list!

[Shadowrider]

I think I have the YD dialed in sweet! Does a great job, and dampens the tail wag in turbulence as good if not better than you can dampen it. You can fly around with the autopilot off and use the YD only. Works great! I have been eyeing a spot at the dunes for awhile. Conditions where perfect and no one was at the dunes so it was a go!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfaSctZ8y29gvLFs9DR7cW-F1dndwM-_F8frXFadQXeg7c7TbbFxkb5sEe6MOd41PLBnQ3gIeYs3HIGqs bUNQyTU3-B6ZvVo7xvy74DvrEN_LPVMHPT1NMO9kbXw4eza5OHcM5XDduEv QDzhRq-EpkaWA=w1812-h1019-s-no?authuser=0

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[Kitfox Pilot]

That sure looks like a fun place to fly!

[Shadowrider]

We never have been a fan how the NR spinner doesn’t track straight. 3d printers can print very large now so I am working on the design and then making a mold.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNHQltoVAw25ahU7uHzkntAt5ILNnUM2AFyzma8FBCjjA jYE89fC67SMBJlI2AHKDelVIDZpN4ExI4JpHVU4MOowxCMvYBO bO2FpilVy2SSAOR4Q2EUu1AEPEcPgTnPib2A1x05wkhAIHQBbG SkdymLSA=w1640-h1230-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOaYdYE92SseQyu63AYjVkh7k3cHwulhDHkprOScnr6Ez J9BZtAmGCOPzulXyVJ-WEccTHs6iY24xDaif7bV0DYHKdcnqu9jDXrq2pX4_0pfEu_deG zwcPXDW2VHybVdPp2ZJZRB6E6WeiJmcqOxwLIkg=w1640-h1230-s-no?authuser=0
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipO_vupmnNNkJYpcSogTR32XfYsu-ouyy6TjJifoh5_WDGanTwCRA1GvXF7CSI0ROw/photo/AF1QipOGp-c6qKQQQMWgrGq-hfKIzBs9fOSYEARMiDPS?key=d3RLZlgwZ2tsTVdlb0tpdmVFR WtnckZGUENEX1hR
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMFljEishOHeAky5hhVi5NTgBK5MHFPzFBdXh7ms0FK0d kuu55ynew8fgX-5rU6Vpys3dn_9aqOfOtKbBNwzI-ZsNUQprEuP2VAFIb-ky9xx_cOIIQ3Spl7Lzj6ozmchrWYL8YzOTD2jYEg19bqv2ZrEw =w1610-h2146-s-no?authuser=0

[yocum137]

Wow! You got a big printer!

Are you going to lay it up in carbon fiber?

[Shadowrider]

Yes going to do carbon and vacuum bag it.

[bbs428]

I love my NR prop. The spinner - not so much. Mine is a bit off plumb as well. I did mess with it some and it is a little better. :)

[JGE]

Yes, that diagonal brace will need to be removed. Thanks for watching out for us! On a tail tragger no concerns, on a nosesheel setup may want to strenghten it up.

Hi
Do you by chance have a picture of the diagonal brace you removed so you could use the EP32A alternator?
John

[Kitfox Aircraft]

Hi
Do you by chance have a picture of the diagonal brace you removed so you could use the EP32A alternator?
John

This diagonal brace should not be removed. It will change the load structure of the mount..

John McBean
Kitfox Aircraft

[Shadowrider]

Edge has a 15 amp slim alternator that the diagonal brace does not need to be removed.

[Shadowrider]

Mold is sanded and prepped!


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczN9BlvVQ9IVQ4RaoWzRt_6LmQhFhcCigqVZamInoynsWB 2Ni2s6oO05P4gzoGIchlH5puz97SIWS0S1m930QaaloL82OBNj 2Y-6BZHwIUAsutcQezM_QkeY8dRa0UVF0GIzrQRqFcKAwgLFTTgEt htmLA=w938-h1251-s-no?authuser=0


Making template to cut carbon. I am going to try a wet layup and then vacuum bag it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMUVGrsv6g4OguzNz-37KBIvUcHXcm9nlD0IXEPrca3nKz_jB-eUN6eMbbEkSlo7sM59F9ytw8Jf8_BhyqSJ0hSwysUquFwGpS3D z-PC-pC6bWzEo5TmU7DF4UYKg7wmg-VQvSXzxjLwLR7CtObHz6YVw=w938-h1251-s-no?authuser=0


Carbon cut and ready for resign.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPPgcrO3ILHTVL81nmxJL-qBTH720RNdVgR3-VcgXt7Qh1Og9v6puQY5mkiQq4sljfSebtDuPTj9IFXI_DaCH9i nRa0XT6SySN-kSRuYwqPu93t9PLNWODookUI2W2dZe8wyiCWoTy9SbyGD77LdT B_8Q=w938-h1251-s-no?authuser=0

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It worked! Now to figure out how to trim it and to mount it true on the back-plate. Any tips?

[Eric Page]

Now to figure out how to trim it...
Diamond coated blade in an oscillating tool or diamond wheel in a Dremel. I got an assortment of the latter for cheap on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D9L8MNN/).

Looks fantastic, by the way. Well done!

[Geek]

Dustin it is always awesome to see the stuff you try doing and how well you make it work out!!! Well done!!

Gary

[Shadowrider]

In the process of working on a new spinner my condition inspection became due. I pulled the center console side panels off to inspect and was surprised to find as much pieces of junk in there. I thought I was thorough in building it keeping shavings vacuumed up but there was quite a few metal shavings. Took a vacuum and cleaned out the metal shavings and a lot of dirt. Compression was perfect, plugs looked good and exhaust welds looked good. When I put updated exhaust to the new version, the fitment wasn't great. The exhaust is for the Edge Gen II engines which are slightly different because of new turbo, so I needed to extent the exhaust slightly.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOM8ZnjIzOMWtiY9Nb84xbFq4dItRB6Rfl-z25JeHZpH4hoiAbfIkmIwIgyTi_v6zutBigci5jjxnjrLDawo7 ntli6QjbM0b2To7MYKecet-_uIcq48mw5qJZgaTfDbOF1Klub5dn0UjZh6BJzbHcf8Eg=w166 8-h1251-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPNsh7R-3fNjkQ6YnAZVlHJnlMLq4W_e54iK7bZu_JRQmlw-ex-ebdPl0KA4gO2LhySJoMpv7kT8qRcMBPjraGSfO-EDFUW4zTkoczBTRuidApYLYmKnwrpnSwht-fKduTjOUy19UbrbKBaKEmUfhdRvg=w938-h1251-s-no?authuser=0

[Shadowrider]

Finished the spinner and it turned out great. I was able to drill it and get it to track true. I took the spark plugs out, setup a ladder with a stick and a pencil. Then I rotated the prop and was able to position the spinner so the tip tracked true within about 1/16" movement. Carbon is definitely a pain to finish. When I was making the spinner I put a coat of resign in the mold before laying the pre-wet carbon. Still got some pin holes but not to many. I then re-coated the spinner with resign and rubber squeegee to press the resin into the holes. Then sanded and took some clear coat and dropped clear on the remaining holes. Then sanded, cleared, sanded and cleared. I took all the weights off my back-plate including balance master. I then re-balanced the spinner and got it down to .05ips. Then re-installed the balanced master and have gone on a few flights. Overall it does feel smoother having a spinner that's tracking true. I was flying an noticed what appears to be very old foundation. Decided to do some uphill landing practice and go check out the foundation.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMGDN_J9lSnqyV14NiG0nvCQZYCT_8cJrAfTMP33vsAC5 6zT1o1kItcS_mQ9gC1xjta8vBBDf_HOsPh7GhGRYO4VNNd86oI Jhuc9q9QCpEoBpJ_sZB639eCjyCsWN53MGkgqv0n_YEFbKl3kj njcGrylQ=w938-h1251-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNKruwKojt7XO8OBKOAgEBgGRTdSBtDDGjn64w3Eej4Rt XyIfp6S3QT1lytd0Sk7jOYjOTNUU8Uebml_nmkMSeqiGzSrlSS-lTWSG4xOI8dwhrJi7iPNyG11U_dRbHK7TgXlTzZ1HSQ7N_ImOK Pi0SCPg=w1668-h1251-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPiaDNiVwuRqHJ7WZpoFqhDhPmAiTP9zQ28m-4e3RAtJad4_pVxPiwSu8Lioq-uipTTpZDcSIwhChvR0AJPoRsYNPeESIT9dIc6Cr4ifS9miKSUQ W6TvDAucBGRPAuXG_FYot1rWK6p9QTCPlA3JtLdJw=w1668-h1251-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPqlMWOt8F3JLP-YgTCqVfaaKAx5DsIkr829ZuoVVxIQJysERq2l4OaKldsohLI-XBdQohudktKh7Dhi-SAvezS8zc1Chin98CfcCvswNLeAIbK9LkpG86T1NpG2L1U4tOi ron0-YxcErtdGPA8z_VkMQ=w1668-h1251-s-no?authuser=0

[Kitfox Pilot]

Wow the spinner looks great! I'd like to try that uphill landing, sure looks like fun.