Fuel tank banjo fitting.

[Frontier Fox]

I was wondering if anyone has come up with a banjo fitting installed in the fuel tank supply port. I have not been able to find one that has pipe threads. This would be a nice type of fitting to use and easier to remove to check the finger strainers at inspection.

[aviator79]

I think I recall seeing Josh Esser retrofit his. If he doesn't chime in on this thread, maybe send him a PM. I wish I had banjo fittings. It's a good idea.

[rtc183]

Kitfox has one.

[Esser]

Yep I got my retrofit kit from Kitfox.
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[littlecricket]

My friend got his from Kitfox, but didn’t like them. So, he made it with a lower profile. His is the bottom one.

[Frontier Fox]

Thank you all for your replies. I like the low profile idea. I wonder what it would take to machine out the tapered threads and cut in straight threads. Also would need a machined surface for the crush washer to seat against.

[jiott]

Personally, I like the better free flow characteristics of a plain 90 degree fitting. If you keep the tank outboard as much as possible and relieve some of the #1 rib, a standard 90 degree fitting can be assembled/disassembled OK. You will also need an access panel on the underside of the wing.

[jrevens]

Actually, the banjo fitting probably has very similar flow characteristics as the “standard” elbow, which has 2 intersecting holes with a sharp corner at the bend. At any rate, flow capability will probably be well more than necessary. Also, being able to remove it without rotating the fitting is nice. Only improvement I would like would be to utilize a brass bushing going into the tank, and then have a finger strainer attached to whatever goes into that. Then the threaded connection into the fiberglass of the tank wouldn’t have to be disturbed to check/clean the strainer, which would be good.

[jiott]

I didn't mean to imply that a banjo fitting would increase flow restriction to any dangerous degree; I just personally want as good a flow as possible because when I did my fuel flow test with my nose up at about 20 degrees, the gravity flow did reduce to not much reserve. I know this test is overkill, but I did it anyway since I do not have any electric backup fuel pump.

I do disagree with your statement that the banjo has very similar flow to a standard elbow. In my hydraulics training we were taught how to calculate pressure drop thru these kind of fittings and it has mostly to do with flow areas and the number of 90 degree bends. A standard elbow has one sharp bend. A banjo has 3 sharp bends. Different brands of banjos have somewhat different flow areas to partially make up for the extra bends. Bottom line, this is all probably just academic and not worth worrying about, but I felt better with a standard elbow.

[Esser]

I had to go to the banjo, I did not have room for my 90deg elbow. I do agree with you John that a fitting the strainer could go into would be nice.

[jrevens]

...
I do disagree with your statement that the banjo has very similar flow to a standard elbow. In my hydraulics training we were taught how to calculate pressure drop thru these kind of fittings and it has mostly to do with flow areas and the number of 90 degree bends. A standard elbow has one sharp bend. A banjo has 3 sharp bends. Different brands of banjos have somewhat different flow areas to partially make up for the extra bends. Bottom line, this is all probably just academic and not worth worrying about, but I felt better with a standard elbow.

Thanks Jim... I don't doubt that you're right. I'm just thinking about a banjo fitting I'm looking at right now... the flow path is through the hollow bolt, then exits through 3 equally spaced holes around the circumference of the bolt into the "banjo chamber" (for lack of a different term). The combined area of those 3 holes exceeds the I.D. of the outlet barb by quite a bit. Also, any one of those 3 holes is probably going to be very close to the inlet of the barb. Some banjo fittings may have only 1 or 2 holes. I don't want to bore anyone, and you're right... it's probably not worth worrying about. I do always appreciate your knowledge of hydraulics.

[Shadowrider]

Anyone know the size on the banjo fittings? Looks like I am going to need to switch my 90 out because I think I have a leak. I have a message to kitfox, but may try and source one local?

[bumsteer]

For those who have installed the banjo fittings, I'm trying to find out what torque setting you used. I can't find anything specific to these fittings. Found a chart for banjo fittings for brakes which show 95-115 in-lbs with a max of 125. Sound about right? I realize you're just trying to get a good seal on the crush washers but my "feels about right" setting has diminished with my advancing years. Thanks for any help.

Rick

[kitfoxrk]

In the pictures, it looks like the banjo bolt goes into an adapter that is screwed into the finger screen fitting. Does anyone know what that adapter is and a possible source? Thanks for any responses. - Bob

[bumsteer]

Bob

I got everything as a kit from Kitfox. Don't know if they sell individual parts.

Rick

[Cherrybark]

Banjo fittings here and Kitfox was perfectly happy to sell them as individual parts. I was concerned about stripping the fuel tank thread while turning a 90 degree fitting "just a little bit more" to have access. Not a concern with the banjos.

[MTBob]

Here's a link to purchase appropriate banjo fitting: https://www.ebay.com/itm/171414187984 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/171414187984)
And here's a link to AN fittings you might need...free shipping in USA: https://www.anhosefittings.com/?msclkid=957e9ffddd8713e132f6c0a1d50d1b6a&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP (http://www.anhosefittings.com/?msclkid=957e9ffddd8713e132f6c0a1d50d1b6a&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP)
Here's a link to the 5/16 hose barb to 6AN female adapter to complete your banjo install: https://www.anhosefittings.com/straight-push-lock-barbed-an-hose-end-fitting.html
(http://www.anhosefittings.com/straight-push-lock-barbed-an-hose-end-fitting.html)

[kitfoxrk]

MTBOB - Thanks for the links. That banjo looks like the ideal fitting.

Bob

[mike92104]

Here's a link to purchase appropriate banjo fitting: https://www.ebay.com/itm/171414187984 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/171414187984)
And here's a link to AN fittings you might need...free shipping in USA: https://www.anhosefittings.com/?msclkid=957e9ffddd8713e132f6c0a1d50d1b6a&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP (http://www.anhosefittings.com/?msclkid=957e9ffddd8713e132f6c0a1d50d1b6a&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP)
Here's a link to the 5/16 hose barb to 6AN female adapter to complete your banjo install: https://www.anhosefittings.com/straight-push-lock-barbed-an-hose-end-fitting.html
(http://www.anhosefittings.com/straight-push-lock-barbed-an-hose-end-fitting.html)

Those fitting look awesome. I ordered a pair. I'll report back when I get them.

[Jerrytex]

Fabricated some banjo fuel connections in case anyone is interested.

I used a AN 1/4" to 1/8" reducer. The tap is a M10x1.

The tap calls for a 9mm drill. I found that just running the tap in the 1/8" threads worked better. Just make sure the tap stays straight.

I already had the AN reducers. The tap was $8, and the 10 MM banjos with bolt and crush washers were $6.50 each.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088QKZ582/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CHRFLE8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an912.php

I found that running a 3/8" NPT tap in the tank a little deeper helped to get the strainers farther in and make more room.

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[jiott]

Does that really save any room compared to a single 90 degree fitting screwed directly into the strainer?

[efwd]

probably not but a fixed 90 would require that you spin that fitting round and round. That fitting gets obstructed by the cap strip of the Number One rib. Mine will likely need to be cut off if it needs replacing. For now, an endoscope is used to verify my strainer is clear of debris.

[Jerrytex]

No doesn't save any room. Sticks out as far or farther than a street 'L' 90. But.... you don't have to worry about an access panel under the wing to be able to unscrew a 90 to get the finger strainer out. Also, you don't have to play the "just a little farther and hope I don't strip out the fiberglass game" to get the 90 pointed in the right direction.

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[jrevens]

Here's how I did it. The straight barbed hose fitting can be removed if necessary, although I think mine just barely clears for rotation/removal.

[jiott]

I like that John. Less fuel flow restriction also I believe.

[Maverick]

I'm curious about the frequency of removing these filters. I get the safety implications but, if you test the fuel flow and it is un-restricted, i.e. you get a full flow of fuel at the header tank, why would you pull these out?

[jiott]

You will probably never pull out the screens, unless something happens that tells you there may be a restricted screen. Something like the old kreemed tanks that started releasing numerous flakes. In 900+ hours I have never removed the tank screens, but its nice to know that it is possible if ever necessary.

[PapuaPilot]

Agreed, don't pull them unless you have a very good reason. I pulled my wing drains at the first annual (with empty tanks) to take a look at the finger screens with a video scope. I haven't pulled them since.

[Jason Murphy]

Here's how I did it. The straight barbed hose fitting can be removed if necessary, although I think mine just barely clears for rotation/removal.

I like this setup, where did you source the compnents?

[jrevens]

I like this setup, where did you source the compnents?

I believe everything came from Ace Hardware, Jason.