Bringing a Model 1 back to life

[Good old number 29]

Hi, I recently acquired a Kitfox Model 1, serial number 29, with a 503 Rotax. Yes, I'm smiling. It's been sitting for seven years, since some ravens pecked holes in the top of the wings, sitting at the airport. The fact that it sat so long was probably partly due to the fact that the last owner (I'm the fourth) also had another Kitfox to fly.
So, I got right into it. I went through the basics, then fired it up and taxied around the yard. Obviously, I'm not flying it until I get EVERYTHING in proper working order, but there's no way I could say no to taking a test drive. Fortunately, I have a small yard, so things didn't get out of hand. Once I had my fun, I got down to business. I have a short list from the last Conditional Inspection, that needs to be taken care of. Adding to that, the fabric repair, a thorough check of the engine, refinishing the props, replacing the windshield, and a couple issues I found with the brakes. But wait, there's more...
I got it in the shop, late last night, and started work on it this afternoon. I pulled the doors, seat, and the cowlings, and drilled the rivets on the sun-yellowed windshield. It came with a new one. I removed the engine so I could drain the reduction gear oil. Like new, no metal or anything. It only has 196 total hours on it. The engine mount bracket is going to get notched so the gear oil can be changed without removing the engine. There will be a little touch up painting on the engine mount and under the seat.
I noticed a little bit of gas on the six gallon aluminum wing tank. It had been repaired somewhat recently, but it has a bit of a drip. Not enough to notice, until I removed the stainless steel cover on top of the wing, that was put in place last time it was repaired. I might see if the weld is just cold-lapped, but most likely, I'm looking at a new tank. I had already called Kitfox to ask stupid questions, and got the impression that they could not care less about my Model 1. Sorry, I can't afford a new plane. What I did find out, is that it's about twelve weeks lead time to get a new tank built, and it's about the same cost for the 13 gallon tanks, as for the 6. They said I need to know the wing twist. I didn't really get an answer when I asked about the best way to measure the twist. I was wondering where the most appropriate places would be to measure. Reading the manual, it appears that it would have a 2" twist, measured spar to spar, at the ends. I'll measure it to be sure. I guess the twist should be measured at the center of the spars, on the end ribs, and not clear to the trailing edge? The rib goes under the rear spar, and not the front, but that won't matter, because they're all the same. Common twists were 1 3/4" or less, from what I found online. So, if I level the root rib, between the spars, I'll check level at the end rib, and measure the gap. Right? He did give me a little insight into what a project it would be to switch to the 13 gallon wing tank. I've gotten a look at the drag, anti-drag structure, and looked at the few pictures that members here have posted of their 13 gallon wing tank retrofits. And, of course, I've read all the nightmare stories of the problems with the fiberglass tanks. It's enough to make me wonder why they don't just gear up to make plastic wing tanks that could fit any twist. It is possible.
All this leads to my next little problem. I opened the valve to drain the wing tank into the panel tank. If you're wondering, both tanks were empty, and I put fresh, clean fuel in them. I was considering whether I could get by with just the panel tank, and save some weight by removing the problematic wing tank. I really wanted more capacity, not less. So, the fuel was draining into the panel tank, when I noticed a wet spot on its left side. Sure enough, the plastic on the panel tank was cracked about 1 1/2', 2/3 of the way up the tank. I pushed on a suspect spot just above that, and it cracked, too. That left me with zero good gas tanks. I really don't want to wait twelve weeks for wing tanks. Twelve weeks for one, six gallon tank, is a rate of two weeks per gallon. I am considering fabricating my own panel tank out of aluminum. I could have that done really nicely in a couple days. It's still not much capacity, even if I can stretch it a little. Are there any options out there? Maybe someone has a panel tank to sell. As I see it, the best, most expensive, and most time consuming solution is tear into both wings and install two big wing tanks. The biggest downside would be the added weight. Can anyone tell me what the 13 gallon tanks weigh? If I get rid of the panel tank, I'd be losing forward weight. I'd sure appreciate input on tanks and configuration. Remember, this is a Model 1 with a 503. Empty weight was 414 pounds, and I don't want to increase it, or decrease my useful load, and I don't want to end up tail heavy.
I'm considering the possibility of fabricating a light panel tank, and ordering the wing tanks, to be installed next winter. That way, I could run light, slap some patches on the wings, and get it in the air with a minimum amount of fuss. I'd almost have to leave the wing tank in (maybe I can fix it), since all the structure is gone from that bay. Next year, I could take the time to cut out ribs and move braces to install the tanks, and then re-cover the wings. Speaking of fabric work, maybe one of you with experience with patches can point me in the right direction. I'll try to post good pics. I have to fix a couple false ribs, and there are a few rips and little holes on the top of the wings.
It came with the hydraulic disk brakes. One wheel has apparently rubbed on the caliper, and the left caliper is touching the rotor, on the piston side. I'll check that out. Might need to clearance the calipers a little, and replace pads, or something. The toe brakes are at a bad angle, so it's pretty much impossible to keep off the brakes while using the rudder. I'm going to relocate the top bracket to change the angle of the brake pedal. I saw a picture online where someone had solved that problem by putting wooden blocks on the lower, rudder portion of the pedal.
The carb boots need to be replaced, and I'm going to check the timing and replace the starter cord for good measure, before I reinstall the engine.
It came with two propellers, both three bladed wood props. Both could stand to be refinished. One, the better one, has a small split in the tip, which can be glued.
I found the doubling plates mentioned in Service Letter 8, in a box, and I was considering doing that, and the flaperon hanger reinforcement brackets mentioned in another Service Bulletin, too.
That's my project. I'm looking forward to flying it. I'd love to hear comments or suggestions on any of the laundry list of things to do to it, or your own experiences with similar projects. I'll try to get photos up in the morning.

[Good old number 29]

http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/Theonlynamenottaken2/library/?sort=3&page=1

[avidflyer]

I sent you a private message. Looks like you have a fun project ahead of you! :-) JImChuk

[rv9ralph]

There are several issues you have to address, good luck. Remember to follow standard practices for repair. Here is a link from TeamKitfox on metal tanks and issues in replacing tanks: http://www.teamkitfox.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=4843&page=2

Also, on your prop, just glueing the split will not make it airworthy. I would check with the manufacturer. In the era, there is a chance it is a GSC prop. They are located in Canada and can be found online. Replacement blades are available.

Ralph

[Good old number 29]

I will be sure to follow proper procedures. I was told that the prop with the small split was a Canadian Propeller, but looking at their website, it looks like they service Hartzell props, but no indication they make their own. It had a CP logo that looks similar, and says Quality Canadian Products. The guy I bought it from said that it performed much better than the other one, which is a GSC. The GSC needs to be refinished. It just has urethane flaking off, but no splits.

[Av8r3400]

GSC propellars have a 5 TBR year life span on the blades.

[Good old number 29]

Thanks for making that valuable point, Ralph. I took both props apart, this evening. The logos are basically identical, but one says GSC, and the other has a stylistic “CP”. They are both marked:
66
10
A ten degree pitch equates to 28 inches, according to my reading on it. The best recommendation I could find on it calls for a 68x32” prop on the dual carb 503 with 2.58 reduction. It might be under propped, right now, but then again, a little smaller, lighter, and finer pitched prop isn’t necessarily a bad thing.
So, both props are 66”x10•. Interesting that one noticably outperforms the other. Overall, they’re both very similar. To the naked eye, the same in width and thickness, and same diameter. The main difference is the root.
The “GSC” prop has round bases that clamp in the hub, fitting a machined groove, with a hole for a mounting bolt to pass through, which locks them in at the same angle. The aluminum hub has flat sides where the blades enter it. The blade roots are round, coming out of the hub.
The “better” prop has a round, slightly larger diameter, plastic-coated aluminum hub, with only slightly protruding flat edges past the radius. The blades are contoured at the root, rather than rounded off. They are flat, squared root ends, that fit together in the hub, and attach with four bolts through each blade. Two to the drive plate and two through bolted through the hub fixture.
I think that the contoured root and the circular hub are what make the one prop outperform the other, with the same size and pitch. The GSC hub has those flat, square edges churning the air, as well as the rounded root. I’ll consider that if and when I replace it.
Any input on favorite prop? I’m kind of interested in the Ultra-Prop. They recommended a 60” prop on this engine, but I’m not exactly sure why. Maybe inertia with the B gearbox. I’ll be careful not to gun it, but judging by the oil, it’s in good shape.
I’ll try to determine whether the one is going to be a wall hanger before I ship them both to GSC for maintenance.
http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/Theonlynamenottaken2/media/BD36987C-1A23-45F5-991D-6AB8ED1D57F8_zpsppgt42xt.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=3
http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/Theonlynamenottaken2/media/3FA475C2-5DB6-49B3-8D96-283A2CF63D49_zps30sxvyrr.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=0

[jrthomas]

It sounds like your Model 1 spent several years with some exposure to the weather since you said Ravens poked holes in the wings. If those props were not stored in a dry place I would have some concerns. I have a fair amount of time flying a friends Model 2/582 with a GSC 3 blade. I was a good performer and gave good service for the few years he owned it. Another friend owned a Kolb Mark 3/582/GSC that spent much of its life tied down outside. I wasn't flown for some time and when it did the blades would change pitch. He could reset the pitch and torque the hub to spec but the blades would turn again resulting in a lot of vibration. He determined that being exposed to the weather, the humidity caused the wooded blades to swell and shrink in the hub. He did what GSC said not to do and milled a small amount off the face of the hub. This seemed to work. He sold the Kolb and it was flown from NC to Ohio so I assume his fix worked. I flew behind a 503 with an Ivo for years. They seem to work very well with a 503 with zero maintenance issues and they're the easiest prop I know to adjust pitch. Several friends had 503's with Ivo's and they all had good service and performance. I would think a good used one could be bought cheap. I bought an unfinished Model 4/912ul that came from Kitfox in '95 with a GSC. I never flew with it, sold it and bought a Kiev. James Thomas

[avidflyer]

I had an ultra prop years ago on a Quicksilver MX. Friend of mine had one on his Flightstar. They do make a lot of noise, and when my friend changed to a differernt prop, his performance improved quite a bit. It's not a prop I would recommend based on what I've seen and what I've read. I think the newer style Brolga prop blades are more efficient than the regular Ultra Prop blades. One thing to remember, prop pitch will effect your EGTs. A lightly loaded engine will run higher EGTs. That can be a recipe for disaster. I recently sold a couple of props that would have worked for you. A 64" 3 blade IVO, and a 66" 2 blade Powerfin. They belonged to a friend of mine who passed away last winter. JImChuk

[Good old number 29]

I’ve been looking at a lot of different props, and the Ivoprop looks like a good way to go. Hopefully, one or both of these that I have will be servicable, and I won’t have to buy a new one right away. I’m trying to keep expenses to reasonable amounts. The most econonomical thing to do would be to buy new GSC blades, if needed, but considering long term practicality, I might be better off with a composite. We get a fair amount of rain here, besides freeze and thaw cycles, which is hard on wood, if it’s left outside. If it works out the way I’d like it to, I’ll be able to plow in a grass strip, here at my place, and I can fold the wings and stuff it in the shop.

Matt

[Good old number 29]

The fan belt was loose, so I replaced it. I cleaned up the pulleys with sandpaper, and the new belt fit right with the same shims in the pulley.
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag454/Theonlynamenottaken2/24E4E0E7-4DF4-416E-BC2B-E84F80586BA6_zpshndrz3nf.jpeg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/Theonlynamenottaken2/media/24E4E0E7-4DF4-416E-BC2B-E84F80586BA6_zpshndrz3nf.jpeg.html)
I peeled back the fabric to see what the problem was with the false ribs that weren’t sitting right. They had come loose from the front spar, but were still stuck on the wooden stringer, and had twisted over. You can see where one was broken and had been repaired. The repair had failed, and you could see a point in the fabric where the break poked up.
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag454/Theonlynamenottaken2/725B70D0-0E27-46C1-AAC5-FA857D128613_zpsnalrhqpv.jpeg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/Theonlynamenottaken2/media/725B70D0-0E27-46C1-AAC5-FA857D128613_zpsnalrhqpv.jpeg.html)

[Good old number 29]

My new panel tank is in the mail, thanks to Jim Chuk. The big thing now is, what do I do with the wings? I could make up some false ribs and patch the holes, or I could get in deep, and replace the fabric on the wings. I could possibly just redo the top, since the underside of the wings is in fine shape. That sounds like a half measure if I ever heard of one. I’ve been reading the polyfiber manual. It’s not a big deal to patch it up, but if I do, I’ll probably plan on replacing the fabric in the next year or two, just because. I think the false ribs failed because of snow load, but I can’t say for certain.
Any suggestions for sourcing false ribs, or just cut my own? I was considering putting some structure back in the first wing bay, and leaving the fuel tank out, so I’d need five, if I did that. I could make it into storage, but I still need to make braces if I do that.

[Norm]

I could possibly just redo the top, since the underside of the wings is in fine shape. That sounds like a half measure if I ever heard of one.


Might be the best half measure you have ever done. Then you can inspect all the ribs and make sure everything is the way it should be. I also have concerns that if Ravens poked holes in the fabric then maybe the fabric is in worse shape then what you've been told. The previous owner of my plane was also told the fabric could be patched because it was only holes poked by Ravens. This video shows how bad the fabric really was.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5eXg-Ou1L4
Try to rip new Dacron and you will find it is almost impossible. Try to rip your covering and if you can you might want to replace the top of the wing before you fly it. it will be quick and easy and you will feel confident in flying the plane.

[Good old number 29]

That is an excellent point. This fabric does rip fairly easily, but withstands a straight pull. I could find someone to do the pull test on it. But, getting a look inside the wings would be really good for piece of mind, especially considering the false ribs that were loose. The hard thing about it, is that my shop isn’t insulated, and it’s about to get cold. I don’t want to rip it apart and not be able to get it put right back together, or have temperature related problems. I guess I better hurry up and get it done. There is some silver under the paint.

[rv9ralph]

The proper test for fabric is a punch test. There is a tool to test this. If it fails, it needs replacing.

Ralph

[efwd]

For all the trouble of doing wing fabric, I wouldn't even consider doing it halfway.

[Good old number 29]

The original fabric is Ceconite 103, finished with Polyfiber products. That’s noted in the assembly instructions, and I have some of the original, leftover fabric. It resists tearing noticably better than what’s on the plane. I know a guy who might have a punch I could use to test it. If that fails, maybe do the pull test. Does light fabric ordinarily meet the same standards as medium or heavy fabric, for the tests?

[avidflyer]

As long as you cut the fabric up that much, I would rip it all off. Kitfox wings are real easy to do. Everything is straight on them. Lots more work on an Avid with the rounded wingtips., If you do a good glue job, there is really no need to rib stich on these old slower planes either if you ask me. Then while you have the wing apart, you could install at least one fiberglass wing tank as well. JImChuk


PS forgot the false ribs question. I would make my own. I've done it before quite easily. You do want to use the right plywood though. 1/8" 5 ply. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/finnishbirch.php
I may even have some of the false ribs here. In fact, now that I think about it, I do.

[Good old number 29]

I just wrote a good long post, then got logged out before it posted. Okay, I skinned it, and have no regrets. It was pretty solid, but there was some oxidation on both leading edges where the fabric was attached. None on the rear spars. The left wing was worse, and ten false ribs came loose, at least partially, from the front spar, besides the two I pulled off, earlier. On the right wing, one false rib had broken, and only one other came loose from the spar. They were all well attached to the wood stringer. Ribs look good. Time to order those wing tanks. Maybe they’ll do better than twelve weeks if I order two of them now. I think I’ll go for the thirteen gallon tanks. I’m considering coating the front spars with epoxy, to prevent further corrosion where the fabric holds moisture against it. Any thoughts on that?
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag454/Theonlynamenottaken2/C8C2026F-5F60-426D-A8A9-136803FD3F6E_zpsido0mfgk.jpeg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/Theonlynamenottaken2/media/C8C2026F-5F60-426D-A8A9-136803FD3F6E_zpsido0mfgk.jpeg.html)

[David47]

..... I’m considering coating the front spars with epoxy, to prevent further corrosion where the fabric holds moisture against it. Any thoughts on that?


Always a good idea to prime aluminium with a two part epoxy primer. On the subject of the fabric retaining water, if the fabric has been treated correctly with all finishing coats you shouldn't be getting water retention. Regardless, I'd recommend epoxy prime the spar.

[avidflyer]

Ouch. I'm not a metal specialist or anything, but corrosion on a spar seems pretty scary. Are your spars just round tubes, or do they have a verticle section going down the center? Here is a picture showing the type with the verticle stiffener. I would think these are stronger, and would maybe be less worried about them then the regular round tubes. JImChuk

PS. I guess I couldn't up load the picture

[Good old number 29]

The spars on the model 1 are reinforced with Z-metal, rather than the extruded I-beams of later models. You can kind of see it in the pic. The light spot is light shining in the other end of the spar. Hard to get a good picture of the middle of the spar. That is a partial length reinforcement. The Model 2 used a full length I-beam, and Model 3 went back to a short section, but lengethened the lift struts. I posted pictures of the description of model improvements and gross weight increases from Model 1 to Model IV 1200. Hopefully the pics are readable. It’s good info.
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag454/Theonlynamenottaken2/6521CF16-6BAF-4EA2-A336-E48AF4F18627_zpsrn0zybro.jpeg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/Theonlynamenottaken2/media/6521CF16-6BAF-4EA2-A336-E48AF4F18627_zpsrn0zybro.jpeg.html)

[Good old number 29]

I think the coatings were good. It could have gotten moisture in from the holes on top, but they were taped up pretty good. Also, if it was water coming in a hole, the spot nearest the hole would be worse than the rest. You can see the wavy line of oxidation where the fabric of the underside of the wing was wrapped up around the spar. It seems evident that either the fabric was wicking moisture, or the cement had corrosive properties. Since the cement was on other areas that did not seem affected by corrosion, I’m ruling that out. Also, there has to be a reason that the left wing was worse than the right. I’m pretty sure it’s from condensation. The wings heat up a lot in the sun. I could feel the heat coming out of the hole in the wing, yesterday, with the sun shining on part of it. Hot air holds much more moisture than cold air. So, on a cold day, that hot air is sucking up moisture like a dry sponge. Then, when the sun goes down, there isn’t enough air flow to evacuate the moisture from the wings, and it condenses on the bottom of the inside of the wing. The reason the left wing is worse, is because it wasn’t sealed up as tightly, allowing more moist air to enter the wing. It has that unusual storage compartment with the open end and short ribs and slats of plywood holding the fabric out, allowing airflow to the rest of the wing.

[efwd]

I suppose that is the photo that will explain the answer to the frequently posted question. Should I epoxy primer the spars?

[Good old number 29]

The good news is, I’m able to scuff the spars clean with Scotch Brite, and they’re nearly perfect. Virtually zero pitting. I did find some file marks that I don’t like, but it obviously held up with those for the last thirty years, so I’m not going to worry about that. I’ll get these cleaned up and etched, and I will definitely be epoxy priming them, as best I can, without breaking it all apart.
I need to measure the wing twist and order tanks. I think the benefit of added fuel capacity will outweigh the additional weight of the tanks. I’ll see what the weight is, when I call them. I do intend to keep the weight as low as possible, so I can actually bring a passenger without being over gross.

Matt

[Good old number 29]

And... wing tanks are ordered. She said it would be three or four weeks. I’d better get the fabric ordered up. She asked about a header tank, and I don’t have one. I’m really not interested in adding more fuel capacity or weight, at this point. I should be able to tee them into the fuel line below the panel tank, like the old wing tank. I’ve read about the feed issues that people have had with wing tanks. Is there a preferred solution to that? In trying to drain my wing tank, I found that it didn’t empty until I gave the tank a little positive pressure, then it kept flowing into the panel tank. I’d prefer it to gravity feed, without question.

[Esser]

You’ll want a header tank or you can starve your self of fuel if your nose is pitched down for a couple minutes....

[rv9ralph]

Adding to Josh's comment, the header tank is only about one gallon, but it will keep the engine fed when defending and the fuel pickup in the wing is unported. The header tank is usually mounded behind the seat and both tanks feed into it.

Ralph

[Good old number 29]

It seems to me that I could set it up to refill the panel tank from the wing tanks, and only run off the panel tank.. What if I tee’d into the fill neck, or somewhere on top of the panel tank, and let the wing tanks feed into it, rather than connecting to a tee below the panel tank? The old wing tank connected to a tee below the panel tank, and, to the best of my knowledge, it worked like that. I wouldn’t want to run directly off the wing tanks, understanding the risk of unporting the pickup tube, and sucking air. As I understand it, the wing tanks get some positive pressure from airflow into the cap vent? I could shut off the wing tank valves when the panel tank filled, so it didn’t overfill. Fuel level is visible in the panel tank, so there shouldn’t be an issue of starving for fuel.

[kitfoxjim]

Your problems bring back some memories of a cross Canada flight I made in my Model 2 back in the early 90's. I have one wing tank and the panel tank.
When I would open the fuel valve to fill the panel tank flow would not start while in the air. I learned that I could land, taxi to a stop, then the fuel flow would start. After take-off the fuel flow would continue to fill the panel tank.
This was done several times during the cross-country anywhere I could find suitable space for a stop-and-go. My plumbing from the wing tank and is teed to the connection at the bottom of the fuel tank. After I returned home a facet pump was installed in the line to start the fuel flow. It is only needed to start the fuel transfer, but can be left on to speed things up. Do not forget to shut off the fuel valve before the panel tank overflows!

[Peter_SE]

Will be great to follow this, i´m restorning a KF2 with rotax 582 and serial number 524.

A local inspector tested my fabric and it was in great condition, phuue! :)

[Good old number 29]

Took a day to help a friend pack a moose out of the field, but now I’m back at it.
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag454/Theonlynamenottaken2/60D407B0-ACA5-4B34-80C0-D71FA02DEF00_zpsucypsrc8.jpeg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/Theonlynamenottaken2/media/60D407B0-ACA5-4B34-80C0-D71FA02DEF00_zpsucypsrc8.jpeg.html)
I’m hoping the panel tank gets delivered today. Just ordered a bunch of stuff, last night. I spent a good hour cleaning up the points, and set the gap. I have to wait for the dial indicator and adapter set to show up, now, to do the timing. Central Tool sells the adapters for the spark plug hole for a reasonable price. I also ordered the exhaust gaskets and carb boots, and other stuff, from CPS. Ordered new EGT sensors from The Sensor Connection. I need to call Alaska Air Cargo, to check on freight for my wing tanks. FedEx wanted too much. I can fly down to Boise,, rent a car, pick them up, and fly back with them as oversize baggage for less than their quote. Shipping stuff up here can be ridiculous. I think AAC will be much more reasonable.
I’m trying not to tear the whole engine apart, but the mag side crank seal looks to have leaked, a little. The pistons, rings, and cylinders look good, for as much as I can see through the exhaust ports. With only 195 hours on it when I bought it, I’d like to be able to run it another hundred before I rebuild it. Everything I know about it seems okay, but I want to be sure.
The clear hose that was used to connect the pitot tube to the tubing, in the wing, was just sticky goo. Need to find a more durable replacement for that.
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag454/Theonlynamenottaken2/7E2B8CAE-D188-4D07-9536-FD04E9408C1A_zpsiaeznwnm.jpeg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/Theonlynamenottaken2/media/7E2B8CAE-D188-4D07-9536-FD04E9408C1A_zpsiaeznwnm.jpeg.html)
I talked to an A&P friend at church, yesterday. He said he uses self-etching automotive paint on things like those spars. I’m going to look into that.
I priced out the fabric, and all the coatings, through paint, at Aircraft Spruce. Not bad. The total was about $700, before shipping. I’m thinking about making a trip to Anchorage to buy it from Stoddard’s, instead of ordering it.
I still need to deal with the brakes, and there are some minor issues with the flaperons. I’m going to do the reinforcing brackets on the hanger ribs. The right one has a short crack where there was interference, folding it, and the left one is slightly loose. It just needs a couple rivets replaced or added near the inboard end.
It’s been beautiful weather here. I sure wish I had it flying, already. We never get this many nice, warm, sunny days in September.

Matt

[avidflyer]

I just looked at the tracking for the tank, and it's at your post office since 6:30 AM. As far as the seals go, leaking seals are killers of 2 strokes. Rotax says replace them every 5 years, and while I'm sure that's pretty conservative, has your engine ever been apart? How old is it? Probably 30 years or so. Sure is something to think about. Take care, JImChuk

[Dave S]

Matt,


Don't know what kind of allegedly clear tubing was originally used on the connectors for the pitot tube; however, I have seen similar aging with latex laboratory tubing in many applications - turns to sticky goo. There are also about 5,000 formulations for tygon tubing and they don't all hold up well either if it is a mismatch for the environment it is used in.



One of the better/less expensive connector tubes that can be used for this purpose is plain old fuel hose - plus it is reinforced, and fuel hose clamps are pretty bullet proof plus it can be found anywhere.


A few years ago I was helping an A & P recover an old tripacer - only to find the aluminum pitot tube run had been rubbing on an aluminum rib and was half sawed through. Weird part was that the ASI was pretty accurate even with that much damage.

[Good old number 29]

I really appreciate all the replies. Lots of good info. Sometimes I need that little push to do what I need to do, instead of trying to get by with doing less. I guess I'll be doing a full teardown on the motor. It is thirty years old, low hours or not, and it's sat for the last seven. I'll probably need to buy some more tools to be able to do that. I need to have some positive forward progress to keep myself motivated. Right now, it's going more and more the other way. I'm going to go pick up that panel tank, then try to find a way to make some visible forward progress on this project.

[efwd]

Obviously you know how to get photos attached. Very nice. Ive tried on the HP as well as my MAC without success.
Steve, Larry, to your knowledge have the pic issues been resolved? Some folks are able while others are not?

[Good old number 29]

I’m posting the pics using my iPhone. I upload them to photobucket.com. Once they’re online, I can click on the picture I want to use, hit the “share” button, then “get links”, and select the option for the url. Then, I copy and paste the url into the text in my post, at the appropriate place, and there it is, a picture.

Matt

[Good old number 29]

Once again, the best and most expensive way.
I disassembled the motor, tonight. I’ll need to buy the bearing puller, I think, to pull the outer bearings on the crank. I hate to take it this far down and not do the bearings. The mag side seal was evidently leaking. I had considered that it was probably a bit dried up, from sitting so long, but that some fresh mixed gas in the crankcase would make it swell up. Better safe than sorry. I’ll put a new on in. Haven’t decided on pistons. They’re good for a lot of hours, but I’ll probably hone it and do the rings.
Heads had no carbon.
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag454/Theonlynamenottaken2/C8E1D6B4-B942-4CE9-8E7D-234DF64A7CE6_zps8lq4ehon.jpeg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/Theonlynamenottaken2/media/C8E1D6B4-B942-4CE9-8E7D-234DF64A7CE6_zps8lq4ehon.jpeg.html)
Cylinders were mirror-like, and pistons had a bit of carbon on the top.
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag454/Theonlynamenottaken2/76F5587F-789F-4058-A795-7726C8E543DA_zpstfzzrtmz.jpeg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/Theonlynamenottaken2/media/76F5587F-789F-4058-A795-7726C8E543DA_zpstfzzrtmz.jpeg.html)
Number two cylinder had some oil on top of the jug. It could have been from the leaking exhaust manifold gaskets, but I’m not sure it was. There was quite a bit of oiliness that had come out of the exhaust, and it could have ended up there. It only looked like oil, not a flaming fire head leaking.
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag454/Theonlynamenottaken2/00858ADD-744C-4A16-9C3A-0B750B87C686_zpsuvkgkzr4.jpeg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/Theonlynamenottaken2/media/00858ADD-744C-4A16-9C3A-0B750B87C686_zpsuvkgkzr4.jpeg.html)
Bearings spin freely and everything looks good in the crankcase. A little watermarking on the outside of the bearing shell.
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag454/Theonlynamenottaken2/6C2E868D-5B45-4419-8B3E-2512730B303B_zpsep5eyysc.jpeg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/Theonlynamenottaken2/media/6C2E868D-5B45-4419-8B3E-2512730B303B_zpsep5eyysc.jpeg.html)
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag454/Theonlynamenottaken2/7048E63D-02B4-4009-804E-1C16E48E220F_zpstaemjivm.jpeg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/Theonlynamenottaken2/media/7048E63D-02B4-4009-804E-1C16E48E220F_zpstaemjivm.jpeg.html)
That’s all, for tonight. I had barely gotten it apart when I got a call to go help a friend whose truck had broken down, towing a loaded gooseneck. We got him, the truck, and trailer safely home without incident, but my wife hasn’t seen me all evening. I better make sure I have my priorities straight.

[Good old number 29]

There's a bit of play in the pto side bearings (6206). I priced the pullers. $800, before shipping. Rotax Rick said he'll rebuild the whole motor for $1,250, and that the shipping would add $200, each way. According to his website, the basic 503 overhaul doesn't include the center bearings, so basically the same thing I could do if I bought the pullers. CPS has a crankshaft, but it looks like the newer one, and would run more than the overhaul.
I love the older service manuals. They expect that you'll just do things. In the Repair Manual that came with the engine, it describes the tools necessary to install the crank bearings: "Tools: Suitable pressing device (hammer)". However, pulling the bearings requires specialty tools. If I can devise a way to pull them, I do have a suitable pressing device with which to install the new ones. I tried the local Skidoo shop, and the guy acted like he didn't really even know what I was talking about. "No, we don't do that." Come on, man. Where's your hammer? I'm going to ponder this. I bought this plane for a good price, and I'd like to keep it that way. A full-on Rotax Rick overhaul wasn't in the budget, but it's not out of the question. I'm going to try some other local shops to see if they can help me out with the bearings.

[Good old number 29]

Found my answer on the bearings. Anchorage Drag Bike will do a good job of it. I buy the parts, and it's $130-$160 to do the bearings and check for trueness. Time to order some bearings. I'm going to spec out the pistons, rings and cylinders. If they're out of spec, I'll replace them. I noticed that it has the old, caged needle bearings on the wrist pins. They look fine, but I just thought I'd mention that, since I saw they started using cage-less needle bearings, later on.

[Good old number 29]

I’m considering my options on the engine. Now that I’ve had a better chance to look at it, it looks like the pto side bearing spun in the case, at least a little. I just posted my first awful youtube video, looking at it. https://youtu.be/dQWpNY1JKvk
I did order bearings, the three outers, but they won’t be in for a couple weeks. I think the center bearings are 6206, same as the pto side. I couldn’t find a reman provision 4 crank. Of course, I might end up needing a crankcase. Better go dual ignition if I end up doing that. I’m going to get a professional opinion on the crankcase. It’s really not that bad. I do think the bearings should be loctited in place, to prevent things like this.
Rotax Rick responded to my email about servicing the crank. He has been good about responding quickly to my emails. He quoted $150, plus shipping, to do the outer bearings and make sure it’s true. He uses aftermarket bearings with a slightly smaller o-ring groove, and recommended Permatex Ultra Gray sealant to stick the bearings in place, rather than trusting the o-ring. Now I need to see about doing center bearings. Might as well do pins and rod bearings while I’m at it. That is, if the crankcase is usable. The bearing that appears to have spun is the largest one, the only one with an o-ring on it, as per my manuals, and the only main bearing with no noticable play in it. The provision 8 motors have all of the bearings of that same larger size.
A bit more of a project than I bargained for, but I’m still happy with it.

[Good old number 29]

Here is Rick's answer on the crank and bearings:
"Change the outer 3 bearings. The rod bearings & play look good. The center bearings only keep the crank from bowing. Get the FAG Nylon ball space bearings. There the only safe Aircraft bearing."
I sent him pics and a link to the video, along with the explanation in my email. Dave, at ADB, had advised to go only with Rotax bearings. I had ordered them before I got the reply from Rick, which was pretty quick. I think either one is a fine answer. Anyone have experience with the German made F.A.G. bearings that Rick uses? I might be able to cancel my order with CPS, on the other bearings, if they're really better. I know that Rick does a lot of Rotax motors. Dave is probably the top guy in the state to do this kind of work, so I probably can't go wrong, either way. The one big plus that I see, having ADB do the work, is that it's as close to local as I'll get. I can take it to him and pick it up when he's done. He does this kind of work, himself, instead of his employees.
Moving on, I picked up some adhesive and self etching primer, tonight, to clean up and prep the spars, and reattach the false ribs. I plan to start on that tomorrow, God willing. My goal for this is to have it airworthy in a month. It's a lot of work, but not too much to ask. I need to start prep for the wing tanks. I have a plan for the Flapperon reinforcing brackets. Reading more on the subject, I think I'll do all of them, rather than just the inner and outers. There have been a few failures of the hanger ribs, and I don't want to take chances with thirty year old plywood. I'll seal it good and sandwich them with the brackets, as in the Service Bulletin. When I take the wings off, I'll weld on the doubling plates for the lift struts. Positive 6 g's + at full gross. Sign me up.
The big factor in my timeframe is going to be getting everything delivered. I have plenty of work to do, in the meantime, but getting everything here in a timely manner will be key to wrapping it up.

[Good old number 29]

Back to the prop question. Ivoprop? What I have is a climb prop. I don't mind it, but I think it's underpropped. It also had 145 main jets, which didn't seem right. We're sea level and cold. Specs call for 158 mains with the 503 dual carb, so I ordered them. I'm thinking a 64" three blade Ivo ground adjust would be most suitable. It's the 52 hp 503 dual carb with 2.58:1 B gearbox. I could stick with the 66x28 GSC. We know it worked, but I've already been told it was lacking, compared to the other 66x28 prop that came with it. Both are triple blade, wood. I think that's the way to go, for vibration, but a two blade would be lighter, and a composite would be more durable. Opinions, favorites, or experiences?

[egp8111]

I had the same issues with the false ribs being warped on a model III I rebuilt. I took them off and cleaned them up then clamped them between two flat pieces of
steel (anything flat and solid) then steamed them for a few of hours. Let them dry out for a couple of days. They came out straight as new.
have fun
Skip

[Good old number 29]

Some people pointed out that the Avidfoxflyers forum was more oriented to this type of project, so I am moving my posts to:
http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/6225-bringing-a-kitfox-1-back-to-life/

[Good old number 29]

It's come a long way since I last posted here. This is a link to pics of the project. <iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/Theonlynamenottaken2/embed/story"></iframe>

[efwd]

Cutting and pasting that link doesn't work for me.

[Good old number 29]

Here it is! Alive again. I’m not sure what happened to the pictures I had posted on here, but hopefully this one sticks. It was a beautiful day for flying. About 8° F, clear and calm. A friend and Avid Fox Flyer took it up for the test flight. Three adjustments to the Powerfin prop got it dialed in just right. The motor and prop were smooth, with no problems. I thank God and all the good people that helped me along the way. This has been a great project. I’m glad I did it, and I’m really excited to be able to fly it now.

23703

[Good old number 29]

Taking off in my Kitfox. Serial number 29. This was the second test flight, and the prop was still pitched a little fine. The cabane gear is something I made from a pair of J3 Cub gear legs. Other than that, it’s original, with some attention to the various Service Letters and Bulletins that affected it, and were all addressed. The original, dual carb, single points ignition, Rotax 503 ran like a champ. Panel fuel tank. No header tank or wing tanks. I have two new 13 gallon wing tanks that I got from Kitfox, but I’m waiting to install them after I get some time flying it. I wanted to keep it light, basic, and as close to its original form as I reasonably could, at first. It came in at 440 pounds with the smaller tires.
Here is the video:

https://youtu.be/g4SV0OGmicc (https://youtu.be/g4SV0OGmicc)

Enjoy!

[bbs428]

Looked and sounded great. Excellent ending to your project. Or should I say A great new beginning! :D

[buckchop]

That is so awesome to c!!! Sure makes the work worth it, ill b there soon with #38 when it warms up some. -28 here this am.

CONGRADULATIONS!!!!!!