Will it melt? Suggestions?

[tracstarr]

So as some of you know, I'm going to have my frame sandblasted and then powder coated. (S6).

I'm currently stripping it down. However, there's a few hicups. The push/pull tube for the elevator doesn't come out due to the rivets on each end. That in itself might not be an issue, but the sleeve it runs through seems to be plastic. I'm concerned it might melt when baking the powder coat. Any thoughts?

Same goes for the little plastic tube that the rudder cable runs through. I've removed the cable, but the tubes seem glued in.

And finally, I'm debating about the wooden ribs in the vertical stabilizer. Just tear them out and replace or keep them in and hope they don't burn up?

[Dave S]

Just a random thought.


To avoid the baking which is part of the powder coat process, a person could do an epoxy prime and aerothane finish on the airframe.


To save a few bucks on the kit, we bought the frame bare, sandblasted in the driveway and did the above mentioned painting. Turned out really nice. I like the sandblasting process - gives a person a chance to thoroughly inspect all the welds.



I am not do sure the parts mentioned would survive the 350-375 degree F temps. I would even be a bit concerned about the effect of the heat on the temper of the aluminum push-pull tube.

[jiott]

I agree with Dave, the baking will probably not be good for the plastic and will probably soften the Hysol on the wood ribs, possibly allowing them to slip out of position. If it were me, I would strip all those parts out before powder coating, but if that is difficult to do then I would just use epoxy primer. Many antique aircraft restorers use epoxy primer (I don't believe they bother with any aerothane top coat). Epoxy primer is great stuff, in some ways superior to powder coating in that it doesn't allow hidden corrosion to creep under the powder coat. I think the only advantage to powder coating is the great appearance in the cabin area where it shows.

[tracstarr]

Thanks. That was my original plan (epoxy paint) but the PC is a great deal and would be far easier. Although now I'm not sure.

[efwd]

In my SS7 all those little plastic guides for the rudder cables are easy enough to remove and replace later. Costs about $4 in hose. Wood ribs in the vertical, who knows if those will be available when my plane will need this kind of work but they are easy enough to fabricate if you carefully remove them. Possibly you will be able to re-use them I suppose. Epoxy primer is totally easy as well.
Eddie

[Esser]

I would say drill out the tubes later and replace them. It's a super easy job to install them and only takes a few minutes.

For the tail, have the horz stab, rudder, and elevator sand blasted and use epoxy primer, have the rest powder coated is what I would do. But for the vert stab, removing I would say remove the ribs and order new ones from kitfox. Removing hysol is a PITA and the ribs wont look great when you are done...however, if you went slowly, you could probably sand and reuse them.

Just my .02

[Av8r3400]

When I did the Mangy, the cost to have the airframe and other parts sandblasted and powder coated was far less than the cost of the epoxy primer alone.

I drilled out the rivets and removed the push tube then the plastic bearing comes right out. The small sleeves that the cables run through is just nylon tubing. Put a pliers on it and give it a twist to break loose what ever "glue" was used and remove them.

The ribs are a different story. I made my own to put in, because the plane didn't have any originally. I made just a simple teardrop shape and cut them out with a bandsaw.

[tracstarr]

Well, I'm surprised with the success of heating the hysol. I think I've managed to save the ribs, but we'll see after a little cleanup.

Will attempt drilling out the rivets today. Then off to blasting and painting.