Paint and stuff

[Flyboy66]

What comes with the kit as far as poly fiber (how much), reducer, tape, brushes, silver paint (UV protectant). Does anyone have the list?


What type of hvlp sprayers have people used and where were they obtained?

[jiott]

Here's what I remember comes with the kit:
-enough fabric for the whole airplane
-almost enough PolyTak glue for the whole project
-almost enough PolyBrush fabric sealer for all the brushed coats, but you need to buy extra for all the sprayed coats.
-you will need to buy the PolySpray UV protectant for all the sprayed coats.
-you will need to buy all your final color coats and reducer.
-enough reducer for all the brushed coats
-enough tapes, ribstitch lacing, stitch reinforcing tape, stitching needle, for the whole project. I did buy a roll of 3" bias ply tape (glad I did).
-you will need to buy all your brushes, MEK solvent, a high quality pinking shears (it comes if you buy the Kitfox tool kit), and heat shrink irons.

Its really a pretty complete kit up to the point you pick up a spray gun.
I will let others speak to the HVLP equipment because I had someone else do the spraying for me.

[efwd]

I used a HVLP spray gun from Harbor Freight. I bought the set, one large gun and the touch up gun. They worked great. $60. I did use the most forgiving of the paints. Poly Tone. I doubt I would use this paint a second time. Works great on the fabric but I am seriously doubting the durability of this stuff on the fiberglass, plastic strut fairings and flapperons. I have noticed that it is really easy to scratch on those structures. I got a great look but I bet I will have to repaint those parts with something actually designed for those materials. Where I have had to do touch ups It blends beautifully just as it says it does in the documents.
Eddie

[Flyboy66]

I painted both of my tractors with a Harbor Frt HVLP gun that I spent 20 bucks on. Wasn’t sure if that would cut it with airplane paint.

[Flyboy66]

Does aerothane do well on fiberglass? If so, does the aerothane series have matching poly tone colors?

[PapuaPilot]

Yes, Aerothatne works well on fiberglass and they have matching colors available. That is how I did my plane. Polytone for the fabric and Aerothane on the aluminum and fiberglass parts (wingtips, doors, cowlings, landing gear, inspection covers and panels).

When you get your paints make sure to get enough the first time. It is best to buy all of one type & color at the same to help make sure the color was mixed the same. Other wise you might have several unmatching shades of the same color. Another idea is to pour all of the cans of one color together in a big clean bucket, mix them together and put them back in the cans. That way you know everything will be the same shade. Ask me how I know . . . I bought some red from different places at different times. :o

[Flybyjim]

Aerothane will have much more gloss to it as compared to poly-tone. On a warbird I finished in 2015 I used polytone on the fabric and on the metal, I used Aerothane with a flattener added.

[Flyboy66]

I used a HVLP spray gun from Harbor Freight. I bought the set, one large gun and the touch up gun. They worked great. $60. I did use the most forgiving of the paints. Poly Tone. I doubt I would use this paint a second time. Works great on the fabric but I am seriously doubting the durability of this stuff on the fiberglass, plastic strut fairings and flapperons. I have noticed that it is really easy to scratch on those structures. I got a great look but I bet I will have to repaint those parts with something actually designed for those materials. Where I have had to do touch ups It blends beautifully just as it says it does in the documents.
Eddie


You must have gone into Harbor Freight loaded! I used the $23 HVLP gun on my tractors. On a serious note: the spray guns I used were bottom hoppers. Do the top hoppers work better? Or are they the same?

I think I might go Poly Tone on the fabric with blush retarder, and Aerothane on the non-fabric. I plan on buying a repair kit and practicing as well as testing the above plan to see how it works. Not sure what the smallest quantity is on the paint is.

Steve

[Flyboy66]

Here's what I remember comes with the kit:
-almost enough PolyTak glue for the whole project
-almost enough PolyBrush fabric sealer for all the brushed coats, but you need to buy extra for all the sprayed coats.
I did buy a roll of 3" bias ply tape (glad I did).
-you will need to buy all your brushes, MEK solvent, a high quality pinking shears (it comes if you buy the Kitfox tool kit), and heat shrink irons.


How much more PolyTak and PolyBrush did you buy? What was the 3” tape for? Where do most people buy brushes, MEK?
Does John sell these items? I figure I would just pick up the extra stuff when I pick up the kit.

[aviator79]

I think I might go Poly Tone on the fabric with blush retarder, and Aerothane on the non-fabric.
Steve

I'm not sure if this is what you're suggesting, but blush retarder does not make the Polytone glossier, it just prevents it from blushing if you're spraying in a high-humidity environment.

You can add flattener to the Aerothane to try to match the Polytone though.

[jiott]

Flyboy, I needed to buy an extra pint of PolyTak, and an extra quart of PolyBrush; however this was only for fabric application and the Brushed coats of PolyBrush. The sprayed coats of PolyBrush would require more. Kitfox does sell these things. Apparently you haven't looked thru the Kitfox accessories catalog; many nice optional things in there including extra building/fabric materials. The 3" bias tape was for the perimeter finish tapes on highly curved edges of the stabilizer, elevator, rudder, and vertical fin. Much easier to use than the standard tape. Brushes and MEK from local hardware store. A caution about MEK; most stores are now selling a substitute MEK (less toxic) and it is getting harder to find the real MEK. I used the real stuff and have heard that the substitue is not nearly as good. Wear a good respirator.

[Flyboy66]

I'm not sure if this is what you're suggesting, but blush retarder does not make the Polytone glossier, it just prevents it from blushing if you're spraying in a high-humidity environment.

You can add flattener to the Aerothane to try to match the Polytone though.


The poly fiber book said that the longer it takes to cure, the glossier PolyTone gets ( but still not as glossy as Aerothane). They said blush retarder makes the PolyTone a little more glossy because it slows down the offgassing which reduces blush and increases cure time. But I haven’t asked what others have experienced.

I may do the whole thing in Aerothane, but it sounds like touch ups and repairs are more labor intensive.

[efwd]

I bought the nicest HVLP guns they had. They come as a pair with case, cleaning equipment and tool to disassemble. I was very pleased with the top, gravity feed hopper except when trying to paint the underside of the fuselage.
If your looking to get more gloss from polytone I believe the instructions are to add the reducers that are for hotter days, 85 degrees or more. It slows the dry time and therefore allows more time for it to smooth out. I sprayed with the 65-85 reducer and it dried quick, like 4-5 min to the touch. My garage was 80-85 degrees. I will not use poly-tone on my airplane the next time. I got overspray on an area. I quickly tried to remove it with alcohol and rag. This paint won't withstand anything but water apparently. God forbid I get fuel on it. My alcohol and rag removed the paint. Fortunately, Poly-Tone is very easily repaired. I masked the area off and reapplied paint and you cant really tell I did it unless I point it out. Of course these were already hard lines that I had to mask off but I feathered one edge and it looks great. I will use aerothane the next time I think. I will know a little bit more about painting and hopefully I won't make the same errors next time. I made errors and you will see them. Oh well, I accept that this is for recreation.
Eddie

[DesertFox4]

I painted my model 4 with polytone using blush retarder at about 100 degrees F. here in Phoenix. When cured, it held up incredibly well over 13 years in service and had no problem with fuel spills ect. I even got a nice semi-gloss to it that looked very good.

[efwd]

That is reassuring Steve. Thanks for your input. I am hoping I don't regret this paint.
Eddie

[ken nougaret]

I used poly-tone on the fabric and aerthane on the rest. I completed the aircraft 14 months ago. The poly is holding up fine but i only clean with soap and water; it will not hold up to chemicals. Fuel is fine on the poly but dont get raw fuel on white cause it stains.
Per the poly-tone rep, put the gallon of paint in the refridgerator the night before and it will shine more. Thats what i did and with a couple coats of ReJex wax i think i have a semi gloss.
Ken

[DesertFox4]

Also Eddie, per PolyFiber's recommendation, only Carnuba wax should be used on Polytone paint. And after it has cured a while.

[PapuaPilot]

It is true that the slower the Polytone dries that smoother and shinier it will be. I tried to shoot most of mine when it was below 70 degrees, 65-70 was ideal. If it is over 80 I think it is wise to use the retarder.

[efwd]

Thanks for the reminder Steve. I have some "special" wax to use on the Oratex but I notice that it has apparently gone very bad. I seems it has separated out and shaking it does nothing. I think I would have applied it to the paint as well but having been reminded, I will use Carnuba on everything I think.
John, did you use the "special wax"?
Eddie

[colospace]

Dang, I was about to order some of that "special" wax. Can you provide a bit more insight into why it will not remix? I'll probably want to have a discussion with Lars before buying any myself.

[efwd]

I got it about a year ago. It was an opaque yellow solution. It is a bottle that is heat sealed in a bag and now the fluid is clear yellow/orange with the yellow opaque remnants stuck to the side of the bottle. It has been stored inside my house the entire time. 73-80 degrees. Shaking it up does not bring it back into solution. I have not opened it either in hopes that maybe Lars will take it back. There is no indication of a shelf life on the bottle to my knowledge. Much of the label is in German.
Eddie

[jrevens]

Thanks for the reminder Steve. I have some "special" wax to use on the Oratex but I notice that it has apparently gone very bad. I seems it has separated out and shaking it does nothing. I think I would have applied it to the paint as well but having been reminded, I will use Carnuba on everything I think.
John, did you use the "special wax"?
Eddie

I did get some of the Oratex wax, and yes, it shows signs of separation but seems to mostly mix again with vigorous shaking. Lars would probably disagree with the choice, but I will probably mostly use some Mother’s brand “100% pure carnuba” wax... I have some in liquid form as well as paste. I’ve applied that as well as the Oratex product to various surfaces on the airplane, and they all seem to be good - at least so far.

[HighWing]

Aerothane will have much more gloss to it as compared to poly-tone. On a warbird I finished in 2015 I used polytone on the fabric and on the metal, I used Aerothane with a flattener added.

Polytone on the fiberglass parts was often discussed on the really old days. Most.got poor adhesion with peeling and scratchimg, though some guys solved the adhesion problem by using two guns. One was filled with an epoxy primer in it - i think - for a final light coat and the second one had the Polytone in it. After the primer lost its sheen from the thinner evaporation the polytone coats began.